Fronton of the house calculation. Gable roof pediment: how to calculate the area and hem

Engineering systems 26.06.2020

Engineering systems

To build a roof yourself, you need to have special skills. In addition, this process requires attention and precision.

To create a reliable and durable roof, a properly drawn up project is required, which describes the parameters of the structure being built. An important part of the roof is the pediment, the construction process of which should be approached thoughtfully. In addition, it is important to know how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment of a gable roof.

Description and design features of the pediment

The pediment is part of the end wall, which is limited from the sides by the slopes of the roof, and below by the cornice. The shape of the pediment is determined by the location of the slopes, depending on this, a triangle, a trapezoid, a pentagon and even an oval are formed.

The pediment can be installed in two ways:

Before the construction of the truss system. This option requires careful calculations of height and area, otherwise you can get a skewed roof structure. The advantage of this type is the construction of the pediment without interference.
after roofing work. In this situation, it is not necessary to solve the problem of how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment of a gable roof, since the space between the slopes is sewn up with boards or brickwork is performed. This option can be used by novice masters who experience difficulties in making calculations. In addition, finishing the gable in this way does not affect the finished roof in any way.

It is important to calculate the height and area of \u200b\u200bthe gable at the design stage in order to know what material to use for sheathing, and what load is expected from this on the foundation. The task of how to calculate the gable of the roof can be done using simple geometric formulas from the school course, but online calculators help to make more accurate calculations.

Gable Height Calculation

Determining the height of the pediment is a rather important stage in the design of the roof. This parameter determines the appearance of the roof and the functionality of the building.

Design features of the roof. The main determinants of the height and area of the pediment are the slope and length of the slopes. According to these parameters, it is easy to make the appropriate calculations using a calculator. To do this, measure the length of the end wall, divide it in half, multiply the resulting value by the tangent of the angle that forms between the slope and the base of the roof.
Functional purpose of the roof space. The height of the pediment depends on the nature of the use of the premises under the roof. For an ordinary attic, a height of 140-180 cm is sufficient. For a mansard-type roof in which it is planned to equip a living space, the roof height should be from 250 to 300 cm.

In addition, the correct calculation of the pediment determines the appearance of the entire structure. A low roof makes the house squat, and with too much distance from the eaves to the ridge, the roof occupies an overwhelming position. The best option is the ratio of the height of the house from the top crown to the ground to the height of the pediment in a ratio of 1:1.

Determination of the gable area

In most cases, the pediment area is calculated to more accurately determine the amount of materials that will be used for sewing, insulation and cladding of the pediment.

It is quite possible to calculate the area of the pediment on your own, using the knowledge of some school courses, for this it is necessary to present the shape of the structure:

To decide how to calculate the quadrature of a triangular roof gable, it is necessary to divide the product of the height of the gable and the length of the base of the roof in half. For example, you can take a pediment with a height of 3 meters and a length of the end wall of 6 meters. In this case, the gable area will be equal to (6 * 3): 2 \u003d 9 m 2.
The area of the trapezoid pediment is calculated as follows: half the sum of the lengths of the bases is multiplied by the height. For example, the height of the roof is 3 meters, the lower base of the roof is 6 meters long, the length of the hip is 4 meters. The gable area will have the following value: (4 + 6): 2 * 3-15 m 2.
Solving the problem of how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe gable of the roof, which is made in the form of a pentagon, needs to be done in a more complicated way. To do this, it is necessary to divide the pediment into two simpler figures, a triangle and a trapezoid. Then the area of individual figures is calculated, and the results are summarized.

For a non-standard roof with several gables, the areas of individual parts are calculated. In this case, performing calculations without a special program will be much more difficult and longer.

Calculating the amount of material for a gable roof

As mentioned above, the area and height of the pediment is determined for the purchase of facing materials. According to the known parameters of this part of the building, it is quite possible to find out how much brick or siding is required for cladding. The exact finishing area is equal to the difference between the total area of the pediment and the area of \u200b\u200bwindow openings.

Brick calculation

When calculating the number of bricks required for lining the pediment, it is necessary to take into account the type of masonry, the area of \u200b\u200bone brick and the thickness of the seam. A simple calculation is based on a standard brick size of 250*120*65mm and a joint thickness of 5mm. Masonry of 1 m 2 area is made of 57 bricks. Therefore, the area of the pediment must be multiplied by 57. For example, the pediment has an area of 15 square meters, for its facing it will be required: 15 * 57 = 855 bricks.

A more complex calculation involves calculating the area depending on the type of masonry, taking into account the thickness of the solution.

How to calculate boards for sheathing

Calculating the amount of lumber required can be very simple. Why calculate the area of one board, and then divide the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment by the resulting value. The result must be rounded up.

Calculation of the square of siding and fittings

Calculations of the required amount of siding and additional elements must be carried out carefully, so it is recommended to use the services of specialists or a special program. In this case, you can get a more accurate number of panels, profiles and fastening strips that will be required to cover a certain area of \u200b\u200bthe gable.

It is very important to purchase finishing materials with a small margin. To do this, add 15-25% to any obtained values.

Calculation of siding for the house and the necessary elements

Purchasing, transporting and unloading building materials takes time, and when you have to buy more of what is missing, it can delay construction. Therefore, the mathematical approach to determining the required amount of siding and fittings is correct.

Calculation using the area of walls intended for cladding

To perform the calculation of siding wall panels, it is recommended to make a drawing of the walls and gables with the designation of door and window openings, the basement. An indication of the exact dimensions of all elements is required.

Before ordering siding, you need to count the number of such elements: siding, corner internal and external, start and finish panels, window elements, connecting profiles.

Do-it-yourself panels for sheathing a house with siding (actually, siding), their number is calculated in square meters, and later this value is converted into the number of pieces of facing elements. To accurately calculate, you need to know the area of \u200b\u200ball the walls, gables that will be lined, using the formula, the area of \u200b\u200bopenings for doors and windows is subtracted from the total area.

The formula looks like this:

total = sq. walls - pl. doors and windows.

During work, waste is inevitable, they are also taken into account in the calculations. With proper installation, the amount of waste does not exceed 5-7%. To the total area obtained, add 7% for possible waste.

To calculate how many pieces of panels are required, the resulting area is divided by the usable area (excluding overlap) of one panel. The standard panel has an area of 0.85 m2, this characteristic is always marked on the packaging.

Number of siding pieces = total wall area / area of one panel.

Calculation of the number of additional elements when sheathing a house with siding

Calculation of the starting profile

Starting bar - an element that is first attached to the wall around the entire perimeter of the house. Securely fixed, it serves as a fastener for the bottom row, panels above the windows and the door.

Its length is first calculated in running meters.

Having measured the lower perimeter of the house, adding to it the length of the surfaces above the windows and doors, the resulting number is divided by the known length of one panel. Get the number of pieces of starting profiles.

External and internal corners

The outer (outer) corner is a part that covers the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows you to match the wall cladding located in two mutually perpendicular planes.

The length of a standard corner outer strip is about three meters.

The number of planks is calculated after measuring all outside corners.

Inner Corner - Used in siding installations to vertically attach panels to inner corners and provide a high quality appearance.

Internal corners are calculated in a similar way: you need the total number of all internal corners, a standard three-meter profile is taken into account.

If the building is taller (more than three meters), and one plank per corner is not enough, the elements can be spliced along the length.

Connection bars

When the length of the wall exceeds the length of one siding panel, a T-profile or an H-profile is used for joining.

Its standard length is 3 meters.

A piece count of these elements will be the most accurate.

Take into account the need for docking elements for each of the walls.

finish plank

This finishing element is installed under the windows and at the top of each wall. When using near-window profiles - along their perimeter.

window profile

Finishing windows with siding, if they and the doors are not in the plane of the wall siding, but recessed into the wall, is carried out with a special profile.

It is better not to join parts of the window profile in the form of short cuts, but, taking into account the standard three-meter length, it is better to calculate exactly how many pieces are needed.

J-profile

J-profile is a universal profile used for edging door and window openings.

Sometimes a J-profile is used instead of a start and finish bar.

This element is necessary in places where the profile is cut diagonally.

The length of the diagonal is measured, taking into account the standard three-meter length, the required amount is calculated.

platbands

These elements form a window when it is in the same plane with the siding.

The use of trimmings is also unacceptable here, the exact length is calculated and trims are collected.

Soffits are polymer-coated panels that are fixed to the box along the edge of the roof.

When docking, a locking method is used. This connection principle greatly facilitates the installation of spotlights on the roof eaves. What's more, you can hide the fasteners.

The quantity is calculated in square meters: the length of the surface is multiplied by the width.

One of their main functions is to provide ventilation of the under-roof space, which significantly increases the life of the roof.

wind board

The element is considered in linear meters along the perimeter of the gable slopes.

Home siding calculator online

Sites of companies involved in the sale or installation of siding offer an accurate calculation of materials using calculator programs. Here is one of them: http://allcalc.ru/node/85

How to use such programs? The user needs to independently measure the surfaces of his own house and enter each indicator in the appropriate field in the calculator window. Further, the program itself will calculate and give the result: the number of panels and additional elements.

How to calculate the amount of siding for house cladding, as well as accessories and additional elements

The result can be printed immediately.

The calculator counts only those materials with which the company works, their parameters are set by the program.

Price

Having carried out the calculation of the siding for the house using the program, you can begin to calculate their cost. To do this, use the prices of online stores or local companies.

Example

Example for a house with 9 exterior walls with a total area of 253 m2. Doors with windows have an area of 25 m2. The area of one panel is 0.84 m2.

253 - 25: 0.84 = 271.4 rounded up to 272

272 - the number of pieces of siding.

Instead of connecting H-profiles, you can use an overlap connection. Then the estimated amount of wall siding increases by the width of the joint
It is cheaper to transport long panels once, so accurate calculations save time and money.

When planning an independent installation, you can calculate everything yourself or use an online calculator. And when concluding a contract with an installation company, it is better to rely on the experience of its specialists. Then any delay in work will be reflected in its payment.

How to calculate the gable - how to calculate the area

To build a roof yourself, you need to have special skills. In addition, this process requires attention and precision. To create a reliable and durable roof, a properly drawn up project is required, which describes the parameters of the structure being built. An important part of the roof is the pediment, the construction process of which should be approached thoughtfully. In addition, it is important to know how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment of a gable roof.

Description and design features of the pediment

The pediment can be installed in two ways:

Before the construction of the truss system. This option requires careful calculations of height and area, otherwise you can get a skewed roof structure. The advantage of this type is the construction of the pediment without interference.
after roofing work. In this situation, it is not necessary to solve the problem of how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment of a gable roof, since the space between the slopes is sewn up with boards or brickwork is performed. This option can be used by novice masters who experience difficulties in making calculations. In addition, finishing the gable in this way does not affect the finished roof in any way.

It is important to calculate the height and area of \u200b\u200bthe gable at the design stage in order to know what material to use for sheathing, and what load is expected from this on the foundation. The task of how to calculate the gable of the roof can be done using simple geometric formulas from the school course, but online calculators help to make more accurate calculations.

Gable Height Calculation

Determining the height of the pediment is a rather important stage in the design of the roof. This parameter determines the appearance of the roof and the functionality of the building.

Design features of the roof. The main determinants of the height and area of the pediment are the slope and length of the slopes. According to these parameters, it is easy to make the appropriate calculations using a calculator. To do this, measure the length of the end wall, divide it in half, multiply the resulting value by the tangent of the angle that forms between the slope and the base of the roof.
Functional purpose of the roof space. The height of the pediment depends on the nature of the use of the premises under the roof. For an ordinary attic, a height of 140-180 cm is sufficient. For a mansard-type roof in which it is planned to equip a living space, the roof height should be from 250 to 300 cm.

In addition, the correct calculation of the pediment determines the appearance of the entire structure. A low roof makes the house squat, and with too much distance from the eaves to the ridge, the roof occupies an overwhelming position. The best option is the ratio of the height of the house from the top crown to the ground to the height of the pediment in a ratio of 1:1.

Determination of the gable area

In most cases, the pediment area is calculated to more accurately determine the amount of materials that will be used for sewing, insulation and cladding of the pediment.

It is quite possible to calculate the area of the pediment on your own, using the knowledge of some school courses, for this it is necessary to present the shape of the structure:

To decide how to calculate the quadrature of a triangular roof gable, it is necessary to divide the product of the height of the gable and the length of the base of the roof in half. For example, you can take a pediment with a height of 3 meters and a length of the end wall of 6 meters. In this case, the gable area will be equal to (6 * 3): 2 \u003d 9 m 2.
The area of the trapezoid pediment is calculated as follows: half the sum of the lengths of the bases is multiplied by the height. For example, the height of the roof is 3 meters, the lower base of the roof is 6 meters long, the length of the hip is 4 meters. The gable area will have the following value: (4 + 6): 2 * 3-15 m 2.
Solving the problem of how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe gable of the roof, which is made in the form of a pentagon, needs to be done in a more complicated way. To do this, it is necessary to divide the pediment into two simpler figures, a triangle and a trapezoid. Then the area of individual figures is calculated, and the results are summarized.

For a non-standard roof with several gables, the areas of individual parts are calculated. In this case, performing calculations without a special program will be much more difficult and longer.

Calculating the amount of material for a gable roof

Brick calculation

A more complex calculation involves calculating the area depending on the type of masonry, taking into account the thickness of the solution. Further, the total area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment is divided by the area of one brick.

How to calculate boards for sheathing

Calculation of the square of siding and fittings

It is very important to purchase finishing materials with a small margin. To do this, add 15-25% to any obtained values.

Gable: determining the height of the roof and calculating the area

The pediment is the most significant component in house building, the end of its front wall. A properly made gable can be a real home decoration.

A pediment is an end wall that closes the space between the roof slopes and rests on a cornice. Its main function is to be a support for the rafters.

It is located between the roof slopes. The shape can be quite diverse, triangular and trapezoidal are especially popular. Everything depends on the shape of the roof of the house. The calculation of its area, design and installation should be taken quite seriously. Oversights in determining specific dimensions will become the basis for the skew of the rafter system. Before proceeding with the construction, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment.

Roof Height Determination

Before calculating the height of the roof, it is necessary to form with its appearance. It can be single-slope, gable, tent, gable, hip or other type. As an example, you can see a shed, hipped and gable roofs. Difficult systems will be calculated according to a similar rule, due to the fact that each component is one of the usual types of roofs.

Types of roofs. Before calculating the height of the roof, it is necessary to form with its appearance.

Then the angle is set. For various types of roofs, in addition to the attic, it is located in the range from 11 to sixty degrees. A very common value is from 35 to 45 degrees. Depending on the properties of the region in which house construction is carried out. Flat (slope angle less than 35 degrees) in winter can be subjected to a huge snow load, and an increase in the angle of more than 45 degrees leads to the fact that it will be located under high wind loads.

Before building a pediment and making a calculation, it is important to form from what materials the construction will be carried out. The choice of material depends on the technology of building a house. If he is assigned the role of continuing the wall from the outside, then it can be made from the same material as the entire building, for example, from brick. The height determines how large the attic room will be. Its function is to protect the attic space from the penetration of atmospheric precipitation, in addition, it is a support for the rafter system. The system must be strong and reliable and raised by 2-3 rows of brickwork. This is necessary in order to install and secure the Mauerlat and correctly bring the inclined rafters to it. Otherwise, they will act, and perform difficulties during the installation of the roof.

This part of the roof can also act as an individual system, for which iron or reinforced concrete parts are used, or bars made of wood, placed vertically. Sheathing can be from any material.

Geometry can help with calculations.

Calculation of the pediment area using the parallelogram method: to determine the area of the pediment triangle, you need to increase the triangle to a parallelogram with an imaginary line and calculate its area using the formula S = ah, where, S is the area of the entire parallelogram, a is the length of the base, h is the height of the parallelogram and pediment. The resulting value must be divided by 2 - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangular pediment.

To carry out the necessary calculation in order to find out the area of \u200b\u200bthe system, knowledge of geometry and a calculator can help. With a triangular shape, the skate will act as the top of the triangle. Its height is the leg of a right triangle. The role of the second leg is performed by the width of the house with a pitched roof. With a gable, this is the width of the house, divided by 2. And with a tent, the diagonal of the house, divided by 2. Calculation of the height of the ridge can be done by multiplying the length of the leg by the tangent of the slope angle of the roof structure. There is a great opportunity to find a table of tangents in a geometry textbook.

For example, a house with a width of 10 m has a gable roof with a slope of 35 degrees. Tangent 35 degrees - 0.7. Similarly, the height of the pediment: 10 / 2x0.7 \u003d 3.5 m. Knowing this value, you can determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangle. Here the calculator can help again: the height is multiplied by the length of the base and the result is divided by two. In the given example, this value will be: 3.5x10 / 2 \u003d 17.5 square meters.

Calculation of the area of the pediment using the triangle method: you can calculate it by knowing the angles of inclination of the pediment and the geometric formulas for calculating the area of triangles.

The area of the trapezoidal pediment is also very easy to calculate. It is necessary to add the length of the bases of the trapezoid and divide this value in half, and then multiply by the height. For example, if a trapezoid has a height of 2 m and a base at the top of 4 m and at the bottom of 10 m, then its area will be equal to 4 + 10 / 2 * 2 = 14 square meters.

If the roof has a more complex configuration and several gables, for example, with four, then for convenience it needs to be divided into simple geometric components. In this case, the calculation takes place for all 4 gables of the roof, in other words, for any geometric figure. For clarity, you can make drawings. A similar option to do with a roof on 3 gables.

A dormer window is often made. The purpose of the window is very different, both decorative and practical. For any, its area is subtracted from the total value.

When calculating on a log house, the width of the walls is indicated along the axes of the logs, in other words, along the very center, without taking into account the releases for cutting.

Gable roof pediment: how to calculate the area and hem

The facade is often called the calling card of the owner of the house. Therefore, the choice of materials for finishing is given no less attention than its design features. Only in this case, he will delight you with his worthy appearance for a long time.

One of the most important elements of the facade is the gable of the roof. Most often, when it is supposed to build a roof on their own, the owners opt for a gable version. The pediment of a gable roof, like any other, requires a thoughtful approach and accurate calculations.

As a rule, lighter ones are selected as the material for the gable of the roof, but at the same time with sufficiently high strength characteristics. To better understand what this is connected with, you need to understand what a pediment is at home.

Gable roof device

The pediment of the house is the end section of the roof, which closes the space between its slopes and rests on the eaves. The most common design today is the gable roof gable. The side cornices in such cases complete the triangular slopes. With a sufficient height (from 2 to 2.5 m), it can serve as a wall for an attic room. For non-residential attic spaces, the desired height usually does not exceed 1 m.

It is obvious that the front part of the roof is under the influence of aggressive environmental factors all year round. If we also take into account that it is thanks to it that a considerable load from the roof is evenly distributed along the load-bearing walls, then the design of the pediment and its finish must be strong and reliable.

Quite often, it continues the external load-bearing wall. In such cases, the same material is used. Another option for arranging the facade of the roof is a separate structure, for the construction of which vertical wooden beams or reinforced concrete supports are used. The sewing of the roof gable in this embodiment can be made from any finishing material.

Advantages and disadvantages

Among the main advantages of the design, first of all, note:

the ability to create additional space under the roof - depending on the height, you can equip a residential attic there; the ability to protect the roof structure from precipitation and strong gusts of wind. The best result will provide its release in 300-400 mm; ensuring its necessary rigidity and stability; aesthetics, due to the design of the gable of the roof.

Advantages and disadvantages of the design often coexist. For example, additional filing of the gables of the roof of a brick house is not needed, they are durable and strong. All this, of course, can be attributed to the merits. On the other hand, their impressive weight, of course, can be considered a disadvantage.

The common disadvantages of these structures, as a rule, include:

the need for amplification if the required level of reliability is not achieved; exposure to significant wind loads, which is directly proportional to the height and facade of the roof and the slope area.

How to DIY

The erection of the facade part of the roof structure should be carried out according to a carefully designed project, since any error in the calculations to determine the exact dimensions can lead to a distortion of the truss system. This, in turn, will cause serious complications and even collapse of the walls.

At the junction of the upper part, a match is set strictly vertically, equal in length to the height of the future structure. It is fixed in the center of the wall, and the upper end is connected to the corners of the wall, for example, with a nylon cord in a taut state, forming an isosceles triangle. Its sides will later serve as a beacon when laying the sidewalls of the structure.

In practice, the device of the pediment can be done both before and after the construction of the roof. Nevertheless, experienced craftsmen recommend sticking to the first option, since the finished roof, as a rule, complicates the construction of the gable wall.

This design is quite fragile, so it is desirable to strengthen it. For example, before sewing up the pediment of the mansard roof, as one of the possible options, they construct an additional dividing wall, more than 24 cm thick, or pilasters and columns.

How to make a gable peak

One of the varieties of the roofing cornice is the gable overhang of the roof, which performs a protective function. The support for the roof outlet on this side of the building is the protruding parts of such elements of the roof structure as the ridge beam and the mauerlat, on which the additional rafter leg rests.

For light roofing pies or Mauerlats and ridge runs that do not have consoles on the front side, the cornice board from which the overhang is made is fixed on the released crate.

The depth of the overhang is determined by the design features of the truss system and the roofing material.

How to calculate area

As already mentioned, the installation of the roof gable can be performed both before and after its construction. In the first version, the height is determined by the owner himself. In the second - it should be commensurate with the dimensions of the attic space. Here are a few height values taken from practice:

in the absence of an attic - less than 0.7 m; warm attic - 0.8–1 m; attic - starting from 2 m. This height should be enough to create comfortable conditions for living in an attic room, for example, to install windows.

Calculations are performed taking into account geometric measurements and design features. This is necessary to determine the value of permissible loads created by external factors. The value of the aerodynamic coefficient is about 0.7.

In a gable roof, the front looks like an isosceles triangle, so its area is calculated using the formula from the course of elementary geometry:

S= L /2*H, where in this case:

base L is the length of the wall; height H is the length of the segment connecting the upper point of the ridge rafter assembly and the wall.

Let's start from the height. To do this, we need the angle of inclination of the slope, since from the point of view of geometry, the height is the leg of a right triangle, which is calculated by the formula

Let's say we are talking about a building 5 * 8 m, with a roof with a slope of 45 °. tg 45 ° = 1, therefore, the optimal height of the ridge is 2.5 m.

Now we can proceed to the definition of the area. In addition to the above formula, you can also use the parallelogram method. To do this, the triangle is mentally completed to a parallelogram and the area is calculated using the following formula:

S=ah, where h is the height and a is the base.

It remains to divide the resulting value in half.

Let's calculate the area of the front part of the gable roof. Let's say the width is 8 m, and the slope angle is 35⁰.

As you can see, nothing complicated. Another thing is when, having determined how to sew up the gable of the roof, you need to calculate the amount of material. Many of them have the shape of a rectangle, so trimmings must inevitably form, and there will be more of them, the larger the area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet. When purchasing material, you will also have to take into account waste.

Roof gable filing: options

Let's try to figure out how to close the gable of the house. It can be sealed with various materials. Each of them, of course, has its own characteristics, but in any case, it must comply with the roof structure and the overall design intent. Among the most successful solutions are corrugated board, siding and others.

from wood

When it comes to how to sew up the pediment of a wooden house, a bar, board or lining immediately comes to mind. We also add that modern wooden houses often decorate roofs with chopped gables made of imitation timber or carved. Note that the latter design option is very expensive.

Advantages:

Relatively simple device. Wood is easy to process. Individual boards weigh very little, so you can sheathe the structure yourself without an assistant. Affordable cost. At a cost, the material is available to the average family. Natural looking beautiful wood texture. Relative long service life. Without loss of appearance, wood can last about 10-15 years. This does not mean that further operation is impossible, however, it may not look the same: cracks will appear, the boards will begin to deform, etc.

Disadvantages:

Complicated care. The only way to save wood from destruction is painting, however, in this case, it loses its naturalness.

The risk of acquiring low-quality material. Hypersensitivity to temperature and humidity fluctuations. Susceptibility to damage by insects, for example, woodworms.

A little more about how to make the gable of the roof of a wooden house.

The boards are fixed to the end wall with ordinary nails. You can use both frontal and cornice boards. The only difference is the installation method. If the eaves are installed in the cornice grooves, then the frontal ones are installed on the end part of the rafters.

How to hem siding

Siding panels are reliable in operation. They are mechanically resistant and relatively durable. The undoubted advantages of the material also include its resistance to climatic changes. Installation is carried out according to verified technology, accessible even to a non-professional.

Let's note some important moments of installation of a siding.

The installation of siding panels is carried out on special rails made of metal or wood, fixed vertically in increments of 30–40 cm.

The most common technology is the installation of siding panels on a wooden crate. This method does not require much time and special costs. The siding is attached to the crate with screws (self-tapping screws).

Climatic and temperature factors cause deformation of the panels, therefore, between them and the crate, it is assumed that there is a technical gap of about 1 cm. For the design of the last rows, special types of so-called finishing strips are used. The joint formed in this case is hidden under the corner element, which completes the installation work. Vertical type panels can give an exclusive look to the building. As a rule, they are fixed using moldings and J-shaped fasteners.

How to properly sew up a roof gable with a metal profile

The pediment of a gable roof made of corrugated board is mounted on a light frame. Thus, when choosing a finish from a metal profile, the load on the truss system, which performs the function of the supporting element of gable roofs, is significantly reduced. Profiled sheets are even suitable for arranging the facade of the roofs of frame houses, and they are known to be lightweight. At the same time, high strength characteristics allow them to cope with any wind loads.

This design is easy to operate and practically does not require any expenses for this: a hose, water and a soft cloth are enough to wipe the sheets after washing. In addition, any damaged area can be easily and simply replaced.

Most often, wall corrugated board is used for this type of work. Outwardly, it is lighter and more elegant, which undoubtedly gives the structure an additional appeal.

Mounting technology

Frame installation. It is assembled from metal profiles, which are fixed on brackets. Thus, at the same time, the ventilation gap necessary between the front part and the skin is ensured. Open profiled sheets. The material is cut according to the existing sketch. The necessary tool is special shears for metal or low-speed saws. It is strictly forbidden to use a grinder for cutting a metal profile, since during the work, due to the strong heating of the cut points, the protective layer of the material is broken. Thermal insulation, if necessary, is carried out as follows. A vapor-permeable membrane, a layer of insulation and a wind barrier are laid on the surface to be trimmed. Profiled sheets are attached to the frame using roofing screws.

Watch the video on how to make a roof gable.

The subtleties of construction: how to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment

The pediment has a great influence on the landscape design of the site and the design of the house itself.

At the same time, it is important not only to correctly calculate its area, but also to carefully select the materials for its sheathing.

It is worth noting that gables for a gable roof have a much larger area than for four-slope (not hipped) ones. Many manufacturing companies or shops that sell sheathing materials provide area calculation services. However, such services are not cheap. Therefore, you can calculate the area yourself, especially since it is quite simple to do this. How to quickly and easily calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment of the house will be described below.

What is a pediment?

Scheme of the pediment with siding trim.

The pediment is called the end part of the roof, which has the form of a triangle and is formed near the wall where the slopes meet. At this point, the rafter system rests on the eaves. Therefore, the main task of the pediment is to provide a sufficiently reliable support for the rafters. But the pediment is called the wall above which it is located, without taking into account the pediment itself.

The space of the pediment, which should be sewn up, is located between the slopes of the roof. Most often, the pediment has the shape of a triangle, less often - a trapezoid, sometimes you can find porticos of exotic shapes. This is due to the fact that the shape directly depends on the type of construction of the truss system. Gables are very often made in central Russia, on houses where there is a sloping roof or an ordinary gable roof. The gable of the roof has a number of disadvantages, for example, roofs with porticos cannot be built in regions where frequent hurricanes, strong winds, etc. However, despite the drawback, the pediment is very practical: the sheathed portico protects the floors and the truss system from moisture and significantly saves resources during the construction of the roof (it does not require the selected roofing). During construction, it is important to take into account its overhang: it can be any and at any slope. Due to the slope, the area may increase, there is a need for careful selection of materials for sheathing. It is important to take into account all these factors, so it is recommended to invite professional builders for the calculation.

When designing a roof, it is necessary to calculate the area of the pediment very carefully, since if errors are made, distortions of the rafters are possible, which will lead to leakage of the roof. Therefore, before starting construction, it is necessary to calculate the area.

What do you need to know before starting calculations?

The height of the roof is the most important for calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment. The height of the portico also depends on it. Therefore, before carrying out area calculations, it is necessary to know this value. At the same time, for shed roofs, it is laid out immediately during the construction of the wall. Hipped roofs do not have gables. Therefore, in the example, single-pitched and gable roofs will be considered. At the same time, the complexity of the design does not matter: complex types can be conditionally divided into simple geometric shapes (trapezoids, rectangles, triangles).

After determining the height of the roof, it is necessary to find out the angles of inclination of the slopes. As a standard, these angles are in the range from 14 to 45° (except for flat roofs: they do not have slopes and gables).

Before calculating the height of the roof, you need to decide on its type.

Most often, roofs are built in the range from 30 to 45 °. It depends on the design of the house, the region and the personal preferences of the owner. Angle measurements are made with special goniometers. The angle of inclination of the slopes can be found from the project of the house, where it must be indicated. However, this does not cancel the on-site measurements, since during construction errors or changes that were not made to the project could be made.

The last important point before starting the calculation of the structure is the determination of the material for the sheathing. Basically, the material is selected according to personal preferences / tastes and the thickness of the wallet, but in some cases it is necessary to use materials strictly specified in the project. For example, in the case when the pediment is a natural continuation of the wall, it is better to make it from the same material as the wall. The height of the roof (and, accordingly, the gable) is decisive for the height of the attic. With a high roof in the attic, it is possible to equip a room or an attic, respectively, this will impose restrictions on materials and make it necessary to install one or more windows in it. At the same time, the materials must be strong, and the design must provide high strength, since the pediment will bear part of the load from the truss system. Therefore, when sheathing them with wood, panels, etc. it is necessary to make a powerful frame in advance, which can withstand both the rafters and the sheathing. One option would be laying out high-density brick or aerated concrete.

It is worth considering that the pediment can protrude above the walls of the house. To strengthen it, it is necessary to use metal or reinforced concrete parts (sometimes wooden beams are also used), which will ensure high structural strength. At the same time, there are no restrictions on materials for sheathing.

Calculation: two options

Calculation of the gable area using the parallelogram method.

Calculating the size of the pediment is quite simple. This requires knowledge of geometry of the seventh grade to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bfigures. They are measured in square meters. In this case, we consider two options for calculations for a trapezoidal pediment and for a triangular shape:

The simplest shape is triangular. Everyone remembers from the school course that the area of a triangle is equal to half the product of the height and the base to which the height is lowered: S \u003d 0.5 h * l, where S is the area, h is the length of the height, l is the length of the base. In the case of construction, the height will be understood as the height of the roof (from the ceiling to the ridge beam), and the length of the base is equal to the length of the wall above which the pediment is being built. At the same time, it does not matter that the roof may be asymmetrical: the area of \u200b\u200bthe triangular view will not change from different angles of inclination (however, this will affect the design of the frame and the cutting of materials).
Trapezoidal is considered simple. Its area is equal to the product of the height and the midline (the length of the midline is half the sum of the lengths of the bases) S = h * 0.5 (a + b), where S is the area, a and b are the lengths of the bases (one base is a wall, the second is roof plane).

In the absence of a height value, it is easy to find it using the Pythagorean theorem or knowing the angles of inclination of the slopes.

If the shape of the pediment is quite complex, it is divided into right-angled triangles and rectangles, then the area of \u200b\u200bthe resulting figures is calculated, and the results are added up.

Calculation of the gable area using the triangle method.

A house with a gable roof (triangular pediment) with identical slopes. The width of the house is 8 m, the slope angle is 35 ° (its tangent is 0.71). First you need to calculate the height of the roof, it is 0.5 * 8 * 0.71 = 2.85 m. Accordingly, the area of \u200b\u200bsuch a gable is 0.5 * 8 * 2.85 = 11.4 m². It is important to remember that in this case there will be 2 of them.
Trapezoidal is considered easy. Given: the length of the wall is 12 m, the length of the upper edge of the roof is 6 m, the height of the gable of the roof is 4 m. The area will be equal to 4 * 0.5 * (12 + 6) = 36 m².

It is important to remember that there can be several gables, so it is necessary to calculate the area of \u200b\u200beach and then add it up (this is necessary to determine the amount of building materials). It is worth subtracting the area of windows from the gable area (it can be both full-fledged skylights and dormer windows). Also, when upholstering them with wood, it is necessary to take into account that the cracks will need to be caulked with moss or other material.

Before starting construction, it is desirable to make detailed drawings. This will allow you to more accurately calculate their area and determine the location of the window.

How to calculate the pediment - determining the area, height, material

Self-construction of the roof of the house requires attention, special knowledge and accurate calculations. In order for the structure to reliably serve homeowners for many years, experienced roofers create a project that reflects all the technical characteristics and dimensions of the roof. An important element, the construction of which cannot be approached thoughtlessly, is the pediment. This article will tell you how to calculate its area, height and the required amount of finishing material without using a calculator program.

Gable design

Builders call a pediment a part of the end wall, bounded on the sides by roof slopes, and from below by a cornice. The shape of this structural element depends on the geometry of the slopes. The most common type of pediment is triangular; it is typical for a gable roof. However, there are trapezoidal, pentagonal and even oval shapes. According to the method of installation, two types of pediment are distinguished:

Installed prior to roof construction. It is erected before the truss frame is established, so the calculation of the height and area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment in this case is especially important. Professional craftsmen claim that if these parameters are incorrectly calculated, the roof of the house can warp. The advantage of this method is that the rafter legs and beams do not interfere with work, do not impede laying in hard-to-reach places.

Important! The height and area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment must be calculated at the stage of creating a project in order to determine what material to sew it up with, to add weight to the calculation of loads on the foundation. Calculations of the main parameters of the roof are based on simple geometric formulas familiar to most of the school textbooks. However, to eliminate random errors, as well as to facilitate the task of novice masters, there is an online calculator that performs calculations automatically.

Height calculations

Calculating the height of the pediment is the most important stage in the preparation of the roof project. The appearance and functionality of the house depends on this parameter. In the course of calculations, 2 factors are taken into account:

Roof structure. First of all, the height and area of \u200b\u200bthe gable of the house depends on the angle of inclination and the length of the slopes. Knowing these parameters, it is easy to perform a calculation for a triangular wall by picking up a calculator. To do this, the length of the end wall, divided in two, is multiplied by the tangent of the angle formed by the slope and the base of the roof.

Note! The height of the pediment depends on whether the roof looks harmonious or not. If this parameter exceeds the height of the house from the ground to the last crown, the roof occupies an overwhelming position. Otherwise, when the distance from the eaves to the ridge is too small, the structure looks squat. To achieve optimal results, a 1:1 ratio should be observed. Using the calculator program, make sure that the house with the roof calculated by him looks harmonious.

Area calculation

It is important to calculate the gable area in order to determine how much material for sewing, insulation or cladding to purchase. Knowing the school course of trigonometry, these calculations can be performed manually or you can use an online calculator in which you only need to enter the initial data, and then press the button. The method for determining the area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment depends on its shape:

Triangular. The area of a triangular wall is defined as half the product of the height of the pediment and the length of the base of the roof. For example, if the width of the house is 5 m, and the distance from the eaves to the ridge is 2 m, then the gable area is (5x2) / 2 = 5 square meters.

Note! If the roof has an asymmetric shape and several gables, you need to perform the calculation for each of them separately. To calculate the dimensions of complex shapes and roof configurations, it is better to use a calculator program that will perform accurate calculations in a matter of seconds.

Material calculation

Most often, the purpose of calculating the height and area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment is the need to determine how much material to purchase for its decoration. Knowing the dimensions of this element, it is easy to calculate how much brick or siding is required, subtracting the area of window openings from the total area:

Brick. To calculate how much brick is needed for sewing, determine the type of masonry, the size of the brick, the thickness of the mortar joint. The wall area is divided by the area of one brick, taking into account the seam on each side, and the required amount of material is obtained. The standard brick size is 250 mm x 120 mm x 65 mm, and the joint thickness is 5 mm, so 57 bricks are required to lay 1 square meter of wall.
Boards. To determine the amount of lumber, you need to know the length, width of the board used, the dimensions of the wall. The total area of the wall is divided by the area of one board, rounded up.

Important! When purchasing materials for sewing and finishing, be guided by the number shown by the online calculator, but do not forget to add a margin of 15-25% to it, which is necessary for fitting and culling. If there are only small dormer windows on the pediment, these elements can be ignored to flatten the calculations.

December 29, 2017
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

If you are building a house or other building yourself, or doing exterior decoration, then you will need to know the area of \u200b\u200bthe gable. This is necessary both for calculating the amount of insulation during thermal insulation, and for determining the volume of finishing materials. The process is quite simple, so you can easily cope with it, even if you don’t remember school geometry materials well.

Gables are not on all roofs, but in most houses this element is still present. In general, a pediment is understood as a part of the building, which is limited by the slopes of the roof on the sides and the cornice of the building below. Most often there are variants of a triangular shape, although trapezoidal elements can also be found. And in some structures, this part even has a complex structure.

Features of gables and methods for calculating their area

We will analyze all the aspects related to this part of the design so that you understand the topic thoroughly and can calculate everything yourself.

Types of structures according to the method of installation

There are two main options that are very different from each other, we will analyze each of them in more detail.

The first type is constructed even before the installation of the roof, its main features are as follows:

The whole roof depends on the pediment. The structure usually plays the role of a load-bearing element that determines the size and configuration of the future roof. In this situation, it is very important to correctly make all the calculations. Any errors are fraught with the curvature of the slopes, which are unlikely to be eliminated without dismantling the entire roof structure;

Most often, such elements serve as a continuation of the wall. and create a continuous surface from top to bottom. This allows you to get a solid structure that will withstand high loads. This way of building a box saves time and money;

Gables can have windows if a house is being built with a residential attic floor. This significantly complicates the workflow, so it is better to entrust the construction of such options to professionals;

Since such structures are not reinforced with anything, it is advisable to put the rafters soon after their construction. In my practice, there have been cases when strong winds destroyed the gables made of timber and gas silicate blocks. If you need the structure to stand, then reinforce it with spacers and jumpers.

The second option is placed after the construction of the truss system, this is a simpler solution that has the following features:

To strengthen the surface, a frame is placed first.. It must be reliable enough to provide additional support to the roofing system, thereby increasing its resistance to wind and snow loads;

This is an easier option since you don't need to calculate the configuration of the structure. Therefore, this solution is more preferable for those who do not have work experience;
For the construction, you can use different material than for the walls. Yes, and the surface of the pediment can be somewhat extended relative to the surface of the wall.

Settlement work

Even if you use an online calculator, there are a few numbers you need to know:

Illustration	Description
	Height. This is the distance from the base of the structure to its very top. This indicator can also be found in the project documentation, but it is better to double-check it personally. Try to check all the numbers that are in the project, as builders often make deviations, due to which the accuracy of the calculations will suffer.
	Gable width. This is the distance along the base of the structure - in the widest part. The diagram shows the two most common options and indicates in which places you need to determine the length and width.
	Determining the angle of the roof slope. If you do not have the equipment to determine this indicator, it does not matter. Use the table on the left. To do this, measure exactly 1 meter from the edge of the gable, and then measure the height of the slope in this place. The resulting value will tell you the slope.

Important! The height and area of \u200b\u200bthe pediment must be calculated at the stage of creating a project in order to determine what material to sew it up with, to add weight to the calculation of loads on the foundation. Calculations of the main parameters of the roof are based on simple geometric formulas familiar to most of the school textbooks. However, to eliminate random errors, as well as to facilitate the task of novice masters, there is an online calculator that performs calculations automatically.

Height calculations

Note! The height of the pediment depends on whether the roof looks harmonious or not. If this parameter exceeds the height of the house from the ground to the last crown, the roof occupies an overwhelming position. Otherwise, when the distance from the eaves to the ridge is too small, the structure looks squat. To achieve optimal results, a 1:1 ratio should be observed. Using the calculator program, make sure that the house with the roof calculated by him looks harmonious.

"Golden" proportions in the design of the roof of the house

Area calculation

Note! If the roof has an asymmetric shape and several gables, you need to perform the calculation for each of them separately. To calculate the dimensions of complex shapes and roof configurations, it is better to use a calculator program that will perform accurate calculations in a matter of seconds.

Material calculation

Important! When purchasing materials for sewing and finishing, be guided by the number shown by the online calculator, but do not forget to add a margin of 15-25% to it, which is necessary for fitting and culling. If there are only small dormer windows on the pediment, these elements can be ignored to flatten the calculations.

Video instruction

Choose only high-quality processing tools.

You will need:

wood primer;
antiseptics (there are opaque and translucent);
antipyrine (fireproof coating); Antipyrine - fireproof protection
acrylic or oil paint;
bio oil;
wax for wood processing;
alkyd varnish.

Ideally, the surface treatment of the facing material should be done before its installation.

Perform the work in the following sequence:

Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus with a steel or hair brush, and then with fine-grained sandpaper.
Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These funds can be found 2 in 1.
Paint or varnish the surface. But before proceeding to this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.

You can easily finish the walls of your house both outside and inside, using lining for this. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.

Fastening with finishing nails

Finishing carnations- These are special nails of small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinguishing feature is a reduced cap, which is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike building nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for secret fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not shrink, tear or bend. This installation method is not suitable for arranging temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin carnation from the panel.

Finishing studs are available with various types of coating and are selected depending on the location and type of finish:

black- fasteners made of steel without an additional anti-corrosion layer for work in absolutely dry rooms;
galvanized- inexpensive and the most popular variety, the zinc layer provides reliable protection, the products are suitable for use in all types of structures that do not have direct contact with water;
with copper, brass, chrome or bronze finish- more expensive types of fasteners that can be used in rooms with high humidity and in open spaces, with increased requirements for the aesthetics of the finish, when working with expensive types of wooden lining.

Any novice master who knows how to use a hammer will cope with the work. Also, during the installation process, a doboynik is used - the device allows you to drown the carnation head without damaging the material.

Using a finishing nail nailer

With a vertical arrangement of the panels (the crate must be horizontal), the installation is carried out in the following sequence:

Put the first part with a spike in the corner (for reliability, it is better to fix the first and last part through with self-tapping screws, close the caps with decorative plugs to match the panel).
Attach the finishing nails to the lathing bars through the groove at an angle of 45 degrees with a hammer with light blows.
Insert the second panel with a spike into the groove of the first, lightly beat the panel with a hammer through a piece of lining or a bar. Check the evenness of the masonry with a level.
Through the groove, attach with nails to the crate, etc.

Fastening with a horizontal arrangement is carried out according to a similar technology.

Mounting methods

1 Mounting methods
- 1.1 Option 1 - use finishing nails
- 1.2 Option 2 - use of clamps
- 1.3 Option 3 - use of self-tapping screws
2 Conclusion
- 2.1 Related articles

We will analyze how to properly fix the lining on a wooden frame in different ways. Each of them has its own pros and cons, so read all the information below carefully.

Option 1 - use finishing nails

This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades, for work we need special studs with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nails are included in the bar, most often products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the cheapest method of attachment.

Finishing nails - the most budget solution

Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:

The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides, in this case the nail is hammered at an angle of 45 degrees and closed by the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;

This is what the groove looks like

You can also fix the elements through the spike, below it is shown how to properly fasten the lining with nails in this case. Here the nail is also closed by the next element, providing the perfect appearance of the finish;

This method is even easier, but it is suitable for materials with a wide tenon.

After choosing the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements of the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for material deformations during temperature changes;
The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top, anyway, the corner is closed with a plinth or other decorative element. On the second side, a carnation is hammered into a spike or groove, this is done very carefully so as not to split the material and damage it. Thus, you quickly and reliably finish walls and ceilings.

Remember that when fastening in a groove, the studs are located at an angle

Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.

Option 2 - use kleimers

It is impossible to disassemble the question of how to fix a wooden lining, and not to mention the kleimers, the so-called special staples that are placed on the spike of the elements and fixed with carnations. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and timber imitation - No. 5. Products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack, carnations are included.

The photo clearly shows how fastening is done with the help of clamps.

Do-it-yourself instructions include the following steps:

To begin with, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each frame edge, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
The location of the kleimers with a vertical arrangement of elements does not matter, and if the finish is horizontal, then they should be from below;

It is important to correctly position the fasteners

The workflow is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which the clamps are placed and fixed with small studs. To make them more convenient to score, use a spacer.

Advice! If you want to ensure a higher fastening strength, then instead of studs, you can use self-tapping screws to fasten the clamps, the 3x20 mm option is best.

Kleimers can also be screwed with self-tapping screws

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

If you are thinking about how to fix the lining on the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is associated with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.

For work, fasteners of small thickness are selected

The workflow in this case looks like this:

In the groove connection of the lining with a 3 mm thick drill, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees;
The element is attached to the crate, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the hat should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the docking, but at the same time, do not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.

In this case, accuracy is important.

The question is often asked, on what to fix the PVC lining, in this case all the above options will do. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.

Before attaching PVC lining, stock up on a stapler and staples

Preparation for sheathing the walls of the house

The first stage of facing a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:

If a wooden lining is chosen, first of all, it is necessary to impregnate it with special antiseptic agents and antipyrine. If desired, paint in any color.
Allow time for the material to dry. Let him lie down for a day in an empty room.
Next, you need to mount the crate on the wall. Reiki should be 50x50 mm in size. The distance between them should be 2 cm less than the width of the thermal insulation material. Fix them every 50 cm with self-tapping screws. Different underlay bars of the frame are not fastened end-to-end, but at a distance of several centimeters so that air circulates from bottom to top
It is necessary to check the location of the battens of the crate with a level.
Next, you need to lay a waterproofing material, fixing it with a construction stapler. Lay the thermal insulation (ideally mineral wool), and then lay the vapor barrier material, which is also like a stapler.
Now you need to make another crate, perpendicular to the first, on which the lining will be mounted.

Stock up on all the necessary tools and materials in advance. You will definitely need a hammer, a building level, a puncher, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a jigsaw.

Method 5

Such a mount is difficult to disguise without a pin.

The last version of the sheathing is much inferior to all the previous ones, implying the fastening of the lining to the crate with nails.

However, this method is also allowed, especially if after facing the wall will be ennobled with other materials.

There are several downsides:

Nails are not easy to hide, because in order for them to securely hold the bar, they will need at least 6 for each.
There is a high risk of splitting the board and other blots.
Such a casing is very difficult to dismantle.

The work begins with the fact that the nail is very carefully inserted into the groove of the bar, inserted into it, and then nailed to the mounting rail of the crate. The caps are hammered into the board with a finisher so that they do not interfere with the installation of the next one.

Lining processing

Protective equipment can not only perform its main functions, but also play a decorative role.

For processing, the lining is first cleaned, sanding the roughness with fine sandpaper. After that, there are several more events:

Primer;
Antiseptic impregnation;
Coating with glaze, varnish or paint.

Lining care

If the lining was fixed by the second method (screws into the spike), every three months it will have to be treated with special protective compounds, because. board and pins will dry out. As a result, the attachment points will become very noticeable.
Annually it should be covered with protective agents based on oil or wax, it can also be varnished, unless it is the lining of the bath.
Do not use abrasive substances for cleaning, so as not to damage the surface of the material.
Dust is wiped off with a soft, slightly damp (but not wet!) cloth.
Stains, if any, can be carefully removed with a solvent. At the same time, it must be applied very carefully, first on the edge of the contamination, in order to determine the reaction with the surface.

Instead of output

With the right approach, the installation of lining will not take much time. At the end of the work, decorate the joints with cornices, slats or skirting boards. Corner baguette looks beautiful on external and internal corners.

And do not rush to avoid oversights and inaccuracies, which will then affect the quality of the finish and its durability.

Ways of fastening lining

Scheme of types of lining fastening.

to the wall in several ways. To perform this procedure, nails, decorative screws, staples from a stapler, and specially designed mounting clamps are used.

The simplest method of fastening is the use of nails. They are driven at an angle of about 45° into the edge of the groove. Hats are closed with a spike of the next lining. To finish off nails, you need a special finisher that protects the front side of the material from careless hammer blows and from splitting wood.

Kleimers are invisible from the outside, they do not cause any harm to the finishing material. Such grips are made of galvanized sheet. Their size and shape may differ from each other. Kleimers are selected according to the thickness of the specific size of the lining and its grooves. They are inserted into the groove of the facing board and attached to the crate element with self-tapping screws, screws or small nails. The kleimer is completely covered by the next panel.

When installing thin lining, small fasteners should be used.

If the thickness of the finishing strips is too thin, small fastening screws are used. Holes for them are recommended to be pre-drilled with a slightly smaller diameter drill. This will keep the panel from cracking.

Sometimes staples are used to fasten the lining, which are clogged with a stapler. This method is mainly used for fixing plastic lining. In this case, you need to ensure that the bracket firmly attaches the material to the crate, but does not split its edge.

The last way is fastening with screws with a decorative cap. The method requires special care, as the screws are screwed through the pre-drilled front side. Hats remain in sight, so it can be very difficult, sometimes completely impossible, to hide a possible marriage in work.

The choice of lining in the store

Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the brand of the manufacturer in this case plays absolutely no role - even for the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.

Lining according to its quality is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and it is almost guaranteed to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of marriage.

It is better to buy a lining not in a package - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before buying

Grade A is also of fairly high quality, but with grades B and C, it’s better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open”. It is better to purchase a lining not in a package - this way you can inspect each board and weed out marriage before buying. But such lining is sold extremely rarely, more often boards are packed in 10 pieces in a transparent film. In this case, it will not be possible to inspect each board, unfortunately.

More often, boards are packed in 10 pieces in a transparent film.

Although, in truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even with one or two knots, the board can be used to make short pieces for sheathing the slopes of a window or, say, a door frame.

But the ends of the lining, visible through the film, it makes sense to inspect quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, then it is better to put such packages aside.

Mounting with clamps, nails and staples

The lining is installed on the crate. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

Finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the frame of the structure is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the battens will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. A heater is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is applied to it. Both layers not only retain heat, but make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the crate, which necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The choice of mounting is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the spike into the recess of the board.

Fastening happens:

secret
outdoor

performed:

staples
screws
nails
kleimers

What will we mount?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. For the version with nails, use a doboynik - this will help to completely drown the hat in the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

In a secret fastener method, the plank is nailed into the grooves of the board. An easy trick - the lining is hammered in with nails with miniature hats in any order. It looks rough and is mainly used for sheathing secondary premises.
Kleimers, made of galvanized sheet, are sold specifically for wooden planks, complete with nails. They are different in size and shape, and are selected according to the thickness of the grooves and the grade of material. Sharp teeth cut into the boards on one side, on the other - they are nailed to the laths of the crate.
Staples are acceptable for work. Sharp elements easily punch through the groove and firmly hold the bar. In this option, it is desirable to have the skills to work with a pistol in order to accurately “shoot” at the junction point.
Decorative screws are an alternative to the listed possibilities. The result is an aesthetic surface with a simple fixation technique.

If you have decided on this moment, it's time to go directly to the process. Even before the construction of the crate began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now it only follows align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally - create a visual impression wide room. With the vertical aspiration of the planks, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. Your preference.

Horizontal version

The principle of slats arrangement starts from the ceiling with advancement to the floor with the same direction of the grooves. This will exclude the ingress of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

We will connect the lining with the crate with kleimers. The element is inserted into the recess of the previous wood part and nailed.
In support of a level wall, every 10 planks measure the location of the lining with a level.
The last wooden element is adjusted to the required dimensions with a hacksaw. The border between the wall and the floor is decorated with a plinth.

A note on working with a block house clapboard that looks similar to rounded log.

The groove should be directed upwards and the side of the board, according to the idea, is obliged to hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps, and in order to avoid them, the strips are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of rail.
The details are connected to the crate with nails with small hats, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

It remains to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the planks, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The cladding is ready.

Vertical skin

The layout of the lining with aspiration upwards starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the crate. The hats will then hide the inserted corner or it is permissible to bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and an even canvas forms an impeccably designed wall.

At the finishing stage, beautiful slats, skirting boards and corners are nailed.

Mounting on clamps

Kleimers- special stamped brackets with a hook and holes, designed for fastening finishing panels. Products are produced in several standard sizes for various types of lining and finishing panels.

This type of installation is more time-consuming and costly, but has several advantages:

Structural durability. Kleimers are rigidly fixed to the crate, and not to the lining. The structure of the panels is not damaged, which eliminates the occurrence of cracks and other damage. Reduces the likelihood of mechanical defects and increases the overall service life of the skin.
The slats on the brackets can be easily dismantled without damaging the material.
High aesthetics - the clamping connection ensures a snug fit of the panels to each other, while the fasteners themselves remain invisible. Kleimers stay inside the joint

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Place the first plank with a spike in a corner (with vertical fastening), into the ceiling or floor (with horizontal fastening) and firmly attach to the beams of the crate through nails or self-tapping screws.
Put clampers on the edge with a groove and fix the panel through the holes with self-tapping screws.
Insert the second part with a spike into the groove of the previous one and press it tightly along the entire length using padding and a hammer.
Put clamps on the free edge with a groove and attach the crates to the beams. Insert the next lamella, etc.
Every 7-10 panels check the correct installation level.

Useful video on the choice of kleimers and their fastening to self-tapping screws:

Crate for lining

In order to fix the lining to the plane, it is necessary to prepare the crate. To do this, you can use a wooden beam or metal profiles.

If you decide to use a wooden beam, do not forget to treat it with antiseptic antifungal compounds. It would be nice to cover it with a fire-retardant composition. It is better to use bars with dimensions of 15 mm by 30 mm, 20 mm by 40 mm or 30 mm by 60 mm. It depends on the evenness of your surface. A thicker beam is needed to level areas with big problems. Thinner bars can be attached to the wall with glue or nails, thicker bars are better with dowels or self-tapping screws. If you decide to upholster a balcony with clapboard, and this room is more exposed to changes in temperature and humidity, then first apply a waterproof composition and fix waterproofing on the wall.

laths of the crate (framework) can be located both vertically and horizontally, but in relation to the lining boards strictly perpendicular;
the distance between the rails (profile) should be no more than 50 cm;
between the vertical racks of the frame, the floor and the ceiling, leave a small gap of 2-3 cm in size, in case of shrinkage of the house, you will subsequently close this gap with skirting boards;
the outer surface of the crate should be in the same vertical plane, check this with a plumb line, and control the flatness with a cord stretched between the extreme racks of the frame, this is necessary so that your wall is straight ahead, without bends;
in the voids under the laths of the crate (irregularities in the walls), lay wooden spacers of the required thickness so that the lath fits snugly;
if there is a window or door on the wall, it is necessary to install a crate bar near them in order to nail the lining to them, and not to the frame.

It is appropriate to lay a heater between the frame rails, while leaving small gaps for ventilation, and a waterproofing film on top of it. Thanks to the insulation, the wall will better keep heat, and it will also serve as additional protection from sounds.

Lining to the frame can be mounted vertically and horizontally, as well as herringbone, this method is often used when sheathing a house from the outside, it is the most economical.

Stages of sheathing

Do-it-yourself step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists in performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is prepared for installation. They are impregnated with special compounds, such as antiseptic and flame retardant. For further processing, stain or paint of the desired color is used.

After the paint composition has dried, a crate of wooden slats or timber with a section of 5x5 cm is mounted on the selected area. The fastening step of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation plate. Screws or self-tapping screws are used to fasten the rails.

The position of the rails or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the skin depends on this.

The variant of the installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. On this, the initial order of fastening the frame is built.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Do-it-yourself horizontal installation of lining makes the room seem more spacious.

In the cells formed, when using a beam, heat-insulating plates are arranged. Upon completion of the work, the entire working area is covered with a plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is the finishing with wood panels. The room is getting finished.

The technology for the correct installation of lining on the walls is distributed over several steps and is clearly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
lining is mounted on wooden bars or slats. The grooves are placed down. For evenness of the panels, a bottom fit is made using a piece of wood board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the skin and the floor.

1. Features of installing lining

Lining is recommended to be mounted on pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is allowed to install the lining without building a frame, but the crate still helps to extend the life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer in the space between the lining and the main surface for laying heat-insulating material.

The crate is fastened in increments of 50-60 cm, it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for the unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame may be metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to stop the choice on a beam. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. Lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and with a rigid fixation of the profile to the surface, the lining can lead. Of course, this risk remains when using a wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Between the bars of the crate, you can lay heat-insulating material, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for baths and saunas.

You can mount the lining in one of the following ways:

horizontally. This is probably one of the most popular options for installing lining. Some types of material (lining quarter and "American") can only be mounted in this way. If we are talking about arranging a steam room, then it is necessary to place the lamellas with a spike up. Only in this way will condensate and water slide freely along the wall. Installation of lining in this case starts from the ceiling;
vertically. This installation allows you to visually raise the ceiling in the room, often used in baths. Installation of lamellas starts from any angle, the first element is installed with a groove outward. When attaching the lining to the ceiling, it is recommended to work in the direction from the light in order to avoid the appearance of shadows between the boards;
diagonally. This is a decorative laying option, which is often used when decorating walls and ceilings in living rooms;
combined and patterned styling involves the installation of lining lamellas in different directions, so you can get an original pattern. Unlike all the others, this installation option requires proper skill and preparation, so it is not suitable for beginners.

The direction of the battens will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, the lining is subject to treatment with protective compounds that prevent the formation of mold and the development of fungus, the appearance of cyanotic and black spots on the surface of the material, and they also provide wood with resistance to insects. Impregnation with antiseptics is an important protective measure that gives the material additional protection and increases the resistance of the lining to adverse environmental factors, such as high humidity, ultraviolet rays, temperature changes. Such preservatives also increase the fire resistance of the wood base by reducing its flammability.

The upholstery material must be impregnated on each side, and then left to dry completely. The lining is still covered with decorative paint bases to achieve the optimal color effect of the surface. If a colorless protective composition was involved, then at the preparatory stage, the material can be coated with stain or varnish

Painting is carried out in several layers, on each side, it is important to cover the entire surface of the workpiece, including grooves, ends and spikes. Applying paint on a horizontal area allows you to achieve its most uniform distribution over the surface, thus avoiding streaks and giving the lining an aesthetic appearance.

It is not advisable to use paintwork bases for processing workpieces that will be operated under conditions of a combination of high temperatures and a high degree of humidity, for example, in a bathhouse or sauna, in which harmful vapors are released into the air.

Lining preparation

Before laying the lining must be prepared in a certain way. Firstly, you need to inspect the boards for knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside or (if there is “back-to-back” material) eliminate defects by cleaning or puttying problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to "acclimatize" in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored on the street) after laying the board, it can “lead”. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers from the timber between them.

Before laying the lining must be prepared in a certain way

Some believe that at the preparatory stage, the lining must be treated with antiseptics, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic already on the finished walls, so this stage of preparation can be skipped.

Material Quantity Calculation

When choosing a lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the ceilings in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that is planned to be finished with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add to the result 10-30% for waste. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
Mathematical. This method of calculation is more rigorous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the size of the openings. For calculation, it is necessary to divide the parameter of the surface length by the width of the lamella. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

Types of lining

By appearance, they are divided into domestic and eurolining. In its manufacture, foreign and our companies adhere to different standards.

The lining of our manufacturers according to the standards has a thickness of 1.2 to 2.5 cm, a length of up to 6 m, a width of 15 cm, a tenon length of 0.4-0.6 cm. There are various profiles:

the basic domestic “Standard”, with its section similar to a trapezoid, the edges are sawn at an angle;
profile "Style" has rounded corners;
"Europrofile" with a thickened spike, due to which the strength of the connection increases;
American lining has a complex geometric section, treated with special compounds, and is used in exterior wall cladding. Its difference is that it overlaps and only horizontally;
the block house has a rounded convex appearance, the appearance of docking is similar to that of the "Standard".

Lining boards are also divided into classes:

"Extra", with a higher class price, has no flaws and no core element;
class “A”, also without a core, but minor flaws are possible and one knot is possible at a length of 1.5 m;
classes "B" has a greater number of knots and various defects, through cracks are possible;
class "C", it will include everything that remains after sorting the above classes, it is better not to use this material in the decoration of rooms and steam rooms.

At the same time, you need to know that most of the flaws on the boards can be hidden with putty.

To purchase material, calculate the required quantity. Multiply the length and width of the plane, add up the areas of all trimmed planes. Subtract the area of windows and doorways. Calculate the area of one board by multiplying the length by the width. Further, for example, the length of the room is 4 m, the ceiling height is 2.5 m, we get 10 sq.m. area of one wall. It is necessary to divide this area by the area of one board, for example, it is 0.25 sq.m. We get 40 pieces of boards needed for sheathing one wall. Thus, calculate the required amount for sheathing all walls and the ceiling, if you will sheathe it too.

Do not forget that during work you will have waste, and when buying in a package, there may be a marriage, so buy with some margin.

Processing and protection

This is the final stage of the installation of the lining, which involves covering the material to be installed with additional layers of a protective or decorative composition. At this stage (the beginning of installation activities), the initial antiseptic treatment can also be carried out, in the case when it was missed at the preparatory stage.

Varnish compositions contribute to the preservation of the original color and texture of wood over a long period of time.
Thanks to the stain, the required color scheme of the sheathing material is achieved, the number of layers of this composition is able to change the color shade.
Impregnation with wax gives the material a certain sheen. After its use, the lining can be treated with paints and varnishes.
The blue with UV filter is transparent, due to which the original grain of the wood is preserved and transmitted, and the wax and oil present in its composition preserve the natural breathable properties of the material.

The second stage installation of the frame

The lining should be attached to a pre-prepared wooden frame. For this, bars with a thickness of 1 cm or more are suitable, depending on the level of unevenness of the walls or ceiling. And also, if the frame can be used as a heater by placing heat-insulating material between the boards and the wall, and the thickness of the supporting structure should exceed 5 cm.

The most important thing is that the wooden bars are attached with building glue or ordinary nails perfectly evenly (horizontally or vertically, depending on the location of the rails) and with steps of 50-60 cm, otherwise the boards may deform during further installation.

For a real Russian bath, vertical fastening of the boards is recommended. This allows you to visually increase the amount of space in the room, improve air circulation, since the air under the frame will rise from the bottom up, plus this type of installation is simpler.

Frame installation

* When erecting a frame, it is better to circle the windows and doors with bars in advance so that the ends of the wooden bars are mounted on them without going through the door and window openings.

Lining ease of installation with high environmental friendliness

1 Lining - easy installation with high environmental friendliness
2 Making lining
3 Installation of lining
- 3.1 Preparation phase
- 3.2 Installing the battens
- 3.3 Installing lining on the wall
- 3.4 Using lining for doorways and windows
4 A few more words about lining
- 4.1 Related articles

This article will talk about how to properly lay the lining, showing that this process is very simple.

Judge for yourself:

Easy installation;
Natural wood in the composition of the material;
Outer beauty;
Surfaces are aligned visually;
It is very convenient for finishing not only houses and cottages, but also.

It is noteworthy that this material behaves well when lining baths and saunas, because there, in conditions of too high temperatures and high humidity, using any other material is harmful to health.

Horizontal skin

First step

Proceed to fastening the lining. Start sheathing the walls in the direction from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves down - thanks to this, various debris will not fall into them in the future, which will contribute to a significant increase in the service life of the skin.

Horizontal skin

Second step

Fix the lining sheet on the crate bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the spike of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Fasten it. Sheathe all the planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 cladding elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface with a plumb line or level.

Clapboard lining

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it in width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the surface of the finish from dust with a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finally paint the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for sheathing, which externally imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove up - this way you will hide the joints.

Horizontal skin

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted with a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - so the finish will be fixed without cracks.

To fasten the "rounded" lining, use self-tapping screws. Screw fasteners at 45 degrees. Between the panels of such sheathing, place the treated timber. This will create a beautiful finish without gaps.

Installing the first ceiling strip

Options for the location of the lining on the plane of the wall and ceiling

Lining on the plane of the wall (ceiling) can be placed vertically and horizontally. Traditionally, the lining of the "euro" profile is located vertically, and the lining of the "calm" profile is horizontal. This is primarily due to the peculiarities of the perception of horizontal and vertical lines. Vertical lines, especially emphasized by a wide strip of shadow from the window light, due to the difference in the surface of the lining profile on the wall, visually increase the space between the floor and the ceiling. The horizontal thin lines of the junction of the “calm” profile linings do not have a shadow and therefore create the effect of integrity. Traditionally, the lining of the ceiling with clapboard is carried out in the direction of the light flux - perpendicular to the window.

Advantages and disadvantages

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit dangerous and harmful substances, even if it is at high temperatures.
The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

To install such wooden panels, it is not at all necessary to involve professional teams of finishers. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong shocks. It is not so easy to break or damage.
The lining is not a easily soiled material, however, if contamination appears on its surface, then it will not take much effort to remove them.

It is worth noting the excellent thermal insulation properties of the lining. A room in which such a finish is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
Under the lining, you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

This finish can be used not only in a country or village house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
Clapboard can finish not only the walls, but also the ceiling. Ceilings designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining has its drawbacks. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to refer to this material in the design of your home.

To install the lining often requires a frame. Most often, such mounting structures have to be addressed when it comes to finishing the ceiling. Also, you can’t do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, this quality can be corrected if the material is processed with special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
Over the years, lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners improperly looked after the finish or mounted it incorrectly.
Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically looked after, treated with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Peculiarities

The rooms, finished with wooden materials, look incredibly cozy and hospitable. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive performance, you can use a variety of coatings., from special wood panels to wood grain laminate. However, different types of lining are recognized as one of the most popular and in demand. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality lining made of wood is distinguished by an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems from 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are necessary to protect the natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations, such problems can be forgotten.

As a rule, lining is processed by similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still need independent care. Fortunately, the stores sell a lot of suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Instruction step by step

Horizontal installation of wooden lining is made from the ceiling to the floor, and the grooves should be directed downwards. This is necessary so that dust and moisture do not get into the joints. Vertical wall cladding starts from the corner. The technology itself is quite simple, step-by-step instructions include three main steps:

1. Preparation of material and base.

Initially, wooden parts must undergo acclimatization, so they must be brought into the room to be finished and left for 2-3 days. After that, it is desirable to treat the boards on both sides with special compounds that extend the life of the wood. The ceiling or walls on which the lining will be mounted are cleaned of debris, additional communications are laid, places for switches and sockets are outlined.

2. Frame placement.

Frame strips are selected based on the curvature of the walls. If the finishing plane is even, thin slats can be used. Installed parts are measured by building level and plumb. Along the perimeter of window and door openings, additional support strips for mounting are fixed. In one row, a gap should be left between the bars for natural air circulation. When laying insulation, the pitch of the crate must correspond to the width of the insulating materials. A small indent is left from the ceiling and floor, so that it is more convenient to fix the skin.

3. Installation of lining.

Installation of wooden boards can be done in several ways: using nails or self-tapping screws, as well as using special fasteners - kleimer. In the first case, the nail is driven into the groove element adjacent to the wall at an angle of 45º. Hats are either bitten off, or nails are driven flush so as not to interfere with the placement of the lock of the next lamella. The cost of traditional fasteners is not too high, but there is a high probability of chipping and cracking of the grooves.

The price of the kleimer is slightly higher, but this mounting option gives the highest quality and durable grip. In addition, the installation of lining on kleimers allows you to quickly reconstruct or replace without damage. The protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the wagon board, and the flat base is screwed or shot with a construction stapler to the crate bar.

Key points and common mistakes

The main feature of natural wood is small fluctuations in size due to changes in temperature and humidity. Performing installation work on their own, some masters forget about this fact. When creating any wooden structures between the walls and the sheathing, it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 1.5-2 cm. Incorrect installation is the result of protrusion or deflection of the lamellae. Extrusion of boards can also occur if the correct technology is not followed or if the material is not securely fixed. To avoid the problem, it is recommended to reduce the pitch between the frame posts in order to increase the number of fastening points.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of finishing, special antibacterial and flame retardant impregnations are deliberately abandoned. However, these funds significantly extend the service life, and their price is much less than a new repair. The subsequent processing of wood with varnish or natural oil also has an excellent effect.

Another common mistake during installation is insufficient ventilation of the space behind the lining, which leads to the rapid formation of rot and mold. In order to increase the air flow, additional holes are milled in the lower and upper parts of the walls.

With nails and screws

The simplest way to attach the lining to the wall is to nail it. Such work can be done even without the appropriate experience and special construction tools. The process looks like this:

wooden boards are cut into strips of the required length;
carefully placing the elements on the wall, they are simply nailed directly through the front side;
nail heads are flush with the surface of the finishing material.

In this way, it is possible to mount both on an ordinary wall (which is especially convenient when finishing wooden rooms) and on a frame.

Despite the speed and simplicity, this method has certain disadvantages:

nail heads will be noticeable, which will disrupt the neat appearance of the finish;
in damp rooms, metal caps can begin to rust, resulting in unsightly streaks and discolouration of the lumber around the fastener points.

In this regard, fastening the lining with self-tapping screws or screws is more common. The length of the self-tapping screws should be such that the fasteners are completely included in the lining and in the beams of the crate. When choosing fasteners, it is recommended to give preference to options with a countersunk head for a cross slot, which will allow the use of mechanized tools and reduce the labor intensity of the process. It is also better to use steel with an anti-corrosion coating or aluminum self-tapping screws.

The installation procedure is as follows:

holes are drilled in the boards with a diameter one size smaller than the fastener itself;
self-tapping screws are screwed into the board by about a third of the thickness;
the first element is attached to the wall, set horizontally and vertically, and then attached to the crate, while screwing the fasteners is necessary until the screw head is completely hidden in the boards;
the countersunk head can be drowned out with wooden dowels of a suitable texture and shade, or simply puttied;
then the rest of the boards are attached.

The third stage is the fastening of lining boards

Nowadays, there are a large number of options for modern technologies for fastening linings, the most common and reliable are:

With the help of nails;
With the help of a construction stapler;
With the help of clamps.
With the help of special strips with a wide internal latch, which are attached to self-tapping screws, dowels or clips.

Tips for fixing clapboards:

Be careful, as during installation it is quite easy to damage the lining. Therefore, we recommend that you purchase 10-15% more material in advance;
Use a doboynik so that the nail heads do not stick out, and the lining looks neat;

Types of lining

*If you use nails for fastening, we recommend buying copper or galvanized nails - they will serve you much longer than ordinary ones.

When attaching boards to walls, it is important to leave a gap of two to three centimeters at the ceiling and floor. This will improve ventilation and prevent deformation of the tree under the influence of temperature. In any case, you can cover these gaps with skirting boards, and corners with special corners.
A good option for fastening the lining would be fastening with a construction stapler. Special rigid brackets nail the grooves of the boards to the crate;

Fastening boards to the crate with a construction stapler.

Often use a fastening method called hidden. It is more difficult to install and without special knowledge it will be extremely difficult to use it. Nails at an angle are driven into the grooves of the boards and when the next wooden element is inserted, they are practically invisible;
Another high-quality method will be fastening with the help of special devices - kleimers - metal brackets, which are screwed to the frame with one part, and screwed into the grooves of the lining with the second. Their choice depends on the thickness. You can buy either separately or in a set with screws / nails;
For a more beautiful effect, a hidden type of fastening is used, when the groove of the board is nailed to the frame along with the spike.

Vertically located lining visually increases the space of the steam room.

Lining fastening rules

If the wall of the house is made of wood, has a flat and smooth surface, then you can mount the elements directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall decoration to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use a crate.

When the direction is determined, the necessary material and tools should be purchased. For vertical or horizontal you will need:

Clapboard finishing technology.
pine slats with a section of 40x20 mm;
antiseptic composition;
wooden pads;
screws with plastic dowels;
2 cords;
plumb;
screwdriver;
electric jigsaw or fine-toothed saw;
finishing carnations with a thin base and small caps;
a hammer;
a core with a blunt end or a punch;
kleimers - special metal staples;
nails, screws or a construction stapler for attaching kleimers.

The technologies for horizontal, diagonal and vertical lining laying are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.

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Fronton of the house calculation. Gable roof pediment: how to calculate the area and hem

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Determination of the gable area

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Calculation of the square of siding and fittings

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Calculation using the area of ​​​​walls intended for cladding

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Home siding calculator online

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Price

Example

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Description and design features of the pediment

Gable Height Calculation

Determination of the gable area

Calculating the amount of material for a gable roof

Brick calculation

How to calculate boards for sheathing

Calculation of the square of siding and fittings

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Roof Height Determination

Geometry can help with calculations.

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from wood

Advantages:

Disadvantages:

How to hem siding

How to properly sew up a roof gable with a metal profile

Mounting technology

The subtleties of construction: how to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pediment

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Calculation: two options

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Gable design

Height calculations

Area calculation

Material calculation

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Types of structures according to the method of installation

Settlement work

Height calculations

Area calculation

Material calculation

Video instruction

Fastening with finishing nails

Mounting methods

Option 1 - use finishing nails

Option 2 - use kleimers

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

Preparation for sheathing the walls of the house

Method 5

Lining processing

Lining care

Instead of output

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The choice of lining in the store

Mounting with clamps, nails and staples

Fastening happens:

performed:

What will we mount?

Horizontal version

Vertical skin

Mounting on clamps

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Crate for lining

Stages of sheathing

1. Features of installing lining

Preparatory stage

Lining preparation

Calculation using the area of walls intended for cladding

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