Roses of modern breeding are quite resistant to diseases, but the likelihood of their occurrence cannot be ruled out, especially if a number of unfavorable factors coincide. These factors include: incorrect placement of the rose garden, errors in planting and caring for bushes, adverse weather conditions (excessive precipitation or lack of moisture, severe frosts with poor plant shelter, winter thaws, etc.). Plants weakened by pests also get sick. If signs of disease appear in the rose garden, a correct diagnosis should be made and timely treatment should be carried out.

Consider which diseases most often affect roses.

Diseases are divided into two groups: non-infectious and infectious.

Non-infectious diseases include diseases that are not transmitted from plant to plant and arise due to adverse environmental conditions. So, with a lack of moisture, the plants wither, when the roots get stuck on the leaves, yellow spots may appear, subsequently the leaves turn brown and fall off, the root system dies and the plant dies.

An important factor is the mode of mineral nutrition.

So, with a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn pale, shrink and fall prematurely, flowering worsens.

The leaves become light green or yellow, narrow, red dots appear in the middle. Shoot growth slows down. Plants need nitrogen primarily for their growth. Before flowering, roses kick out a lot of leaves. Add fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers for roses to the soil or water roses with herbal infusion.

With a lack of potassium, young leaves turn red, dry out at the edges and fall off.

The edges of young leaves turn brown and die. In winter, the shoots freeze, and the rose bush becomes easily ill. Potassium plays a huge role in the maturation of wood. The lack of potassium is caused by an increased content of lime, sand or peat in the soil. For the treatment of roses, it is necessary to introduce potash fertilizer into the soil no later than August, better specially designed for roses.

Small leaves, dark green above and reddish below are symptoms of phosphorus deficiency.

Along the edges of the leaves of roses, brown stripes and spots with a purple tint are formed, the leaves fly around earlier, the shoots grow weakly. Phosphorus is especially important for bud formation. The lack of phosphorus is often the result of liming of the soil. It is necessary to add peat to the soil, as well as feed the roses with superphosphate.

Leaves turning yellow is a sign of iron deficiency.

The leaves turn yellow, but their veins remain green. Young leaves turn yellow first. Iron deficiency can manifest itself, for example, in constantly damp or calcareous soil, which makes it difficult for roses to absorb this trace element. It is useful to spray the leaves with a solution of ferrous sulfate or complex organic iron compounds.

Magnesium deficiency is manifested by the death of tissues along the central vein of old leaves, which fall prematurely.

First, signs of the disease appear on older leaves, then on younger ones. Dead, reddish-yellow spots are visible between the veins, the edges of the leaves remain green. After a while, the leaves fall off. Magnesium is necessary for roses for metabolism, sometimes it is not absorbed due to an excess of potassium. Add magnesium sulfate to the soil.

Chlorosis between the veins is a sign of manganese deficiency.

Between the veins of the leaves, starting from the edges and to the central vein, yellow spots extend. Older leaves are most often affected. Manganese is contained in special fertilizers (manganese sulfate, potassium permanganate) that must be applied to the soil.

To maintain the balance of minerals, it is necessary to apply specialized fertilizers for roses in spring and autumn.

An excess of nitrogen can cause the growth of strong shoots that do not produce flowers (fatty shoots). Such shoots need to be shortened by 1/3, which will serve as branching and the formation of flower buds.

If possible, it is useful to do a soil analysis in a specialized laboratory and get recommendations on the application of the necessary fertilizers.

Infectious diseases are divided into fungal, bacterial and viral.

Fungal diseases

powdery mildew

The causative agent is the fungus Sphaerotheca pannosa.

Leaves, stems and buds are covered with a whitish-gray, easily removed bloom, which often appears after sunny days with heavy morning dew. Powdery mildew can be prevented by planting roses in a ventilated area and spraying them regularly in dry weather with a copper-soap emulsion or colloidal sulfur. Sick shoots are cut and burned.

The first characteristic sign is the appearance of a white powdery coating on the leaves, stems and buds. Over time, this plaque becomes denser, acquires a grayish color, black fruiting bodies of the fungus appear on it. The spores are easily carried by the wind and can infect other plants. The defeat of powdery mildew extremely adversely affects the condition of the plant. The decorative effect is sharply reduced, the affected leaves and buds curl, dry up and fall off, the shoots bend and die.

Powdery mildew can develop even in dry and warm weather. Diseases are susceptible to non-resistant varieties and roses growing in the shade.

Control measures: at the first signs of the disease, treat with systemic fungicides, while changing the drugs so that addiction does not occur. So, for example, Topaz or Skor can be alternated with Quadris or Fundazol. Processing is carried out every 10-14 days until the signs of the disease disappear.

In autumn, all damaged leaves and shoots must be burned.

leaf spot

Several diseases related to spotting are known: black spotting, peronosporosis (downy mildew), cercosporosis (grayish spotting), phyllosticosis, brown spotting, purple spotting and others. The most dangerous and common are black spot and downy mildew.

black spot

The causative agent of the disease: the fungus Marssonina rosae

affects leaves, sometimes green shoots. The disease is manifested by the formation of small spots on the upper side of the leaves, which then grow, become almost black. Affected leaves curl and fall off, only bare shoots remain, plants weaken, grow poorly, do not bloom. Severe infection can lead to the death of the plant.

Control measures: alternate treatment with systemic fungicides containing different active ingredients. For example, Topaz or Skor alternate with Ridomil Gold or Quadris with an interval of 10 - 14 days. The number of sprays - 2-3 times.

Downy mildew (Peronosporosis)

The causative agent is the fungus Pseudoperonospora sparsa.

The initial stages of the development of the disease resemble black spot. Young leaves are covered with brown-violet spots, which can go on the shoots. On adult leaves, areas with a pale color first appear, then they turn brown, dry out and fall off. On the underside of the leaf, a grayish coating can be seen.

Downy mildew can be distinguished from black spot by the nature of the fall of the leaves: with downy mildew, they begin to fall from the top of the shoot, and with black spot from the bottom.

Cool, rainy weather promotes the development of the disease.

Control measures: spraying with fungicides (Ridomil-Gold, Fundazol, Skor, Strobi, Quadris, Profit are effective).

Damaged leaves and parts of the plant are removed and burned.

*Other diseases from the group of spotting are similar in their manifestations and are treated according to the same algorithm as black spot.

Rust

The causative agent is the rusty Phragmidium disciflorum.

A dangerous disease manifests itself in early summer by the appearance of bright orange tubercles (pycnidia) at the base of young shoots and the back of the leaves, which, growing, become rusty-brown. In autumn, the spots on the outer side of the leaf turn black, and on the underside they become brown-brown. As a result, leaves on diseased plants fall off, young shoots become deformed, crack and dry out. The disease leads to a strong weakening of the plant and even its death.

Control measures: alternate spraying with fungicides with different active ingredients. For example, apply Skor (active ingredient difenoconazole), and then Ridomil-Gold (active ingredient mancozeb). Falcon treatment is also recommended.

Damaged leaves and shoots are burned.

For prevention, bushes are treated in the spring with a contact fungicide "Maxim", or Bordeaux mixture (1%).

Infectious burn

The causative agent is the marsupial fungus Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae.

Symptoms of the disease: encircling red-brown spots appear on last year's shoots in spring. The bark on such shoots dries up, cracks, ulcers appear on it, infected shoots subsequently die.

The appearance of the disease is promoted by increased humidity in winter shelters and excessive nitrogen application.

Control measures: spring pruning and burning of diseased shoots, treatment of bushes with Bordeaux liquid, Maxim fungicide.

To prevent the disease, the following rules should be observed: cover roses in dry, cool weather, remove all leaves and unripe shoots before sheltering, ventilate shelters during winter thaws, open bushes in a timely manner in spring, use disinfected tools for pruning.

Gray rot or botrytis

The causative agent is the fungus Botrytis cinerea.

Symptoms: brown spots without bordering with a gray coating of sporulation of the fungus on leaves and shoots. When spores hit the petals, small spots first appear, which grow and turn brown. The flowers rot, covered with a gray bloom.

Wet, cool weather favors disease. If the rules for sheltering roses for the winter are not followed, the disease can severely affect the bushes under shelters.

Control measures: treatment with fungicides (Fundazol, Falcon, Maxim), timely removal and destruction of infected parts of the plant.

Preventive treatment with Maxim, or Bordeaux mixture.

Bacterial diseases

The most common bacterial diseases are root canker and stem canker.

Bacterial root cancer

The causative agent is the bacterium Agrobacterium tumefaciens.

Symptoms: dense growths form on the roots and root neck, which rot as bacteria multiply. Affected plants become weak, stunted and eventually die.

Control measures: pruning of the affected parts and disinfection with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. The fight should be carried out in the early stages of the development of the disease, heavily infected plants should be burned.

Prevention: diseased seedlings should be discarded, in areas where infected roses grew for 3-4 years, do not plant new bushes, because. bacteria persist in the soil.

Bacterial stem cancer

The causative agent is the bacterium Pseudomonas syringae

Symptoms: first depressed brown spots appear on the bark of the shoots, then these parts of the bark die off, the shoots gradually dry out. The leaves of diseased plants are covered with dark spots. Weakened plants are susceptible to the disease.

Control measures: removal and burning of infected shoots. Cut the shoots to healthy tissue, disinfect with a 5% solution of copper sulfate, or Maxim, cover the sections with oil paint. Severely affected plants should be completely destroyed.

Prevention: spraying the bushes in the spring (before the leaves bloom) and before the winter shelter with a solution of copper sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture or "Maxim".

Viral diseases

Sometimes on the leaves of roses you can notice the appearance of a pale color in the form of mosaic or ring spots, speckled edging of the veins - all these are signs of plant damage by viruses.

Viral diseases include various types of mosaic diseases, wilting diseases, jaundice, dwarfism, etc.

Viruses can be introduced with planting material, they are spread by insects, as well as through garden tools.

There are quite a few viral diseases, but we will give only the most common ones.

leaf striping

The causative agent is Rose streak virus.

It is characterized by the following symptoms: brown rings and speckled borders of the veins on young leaves, blurry stains and greenish-brown spots on the shoots. Diseased plants lag behind in growth, bloom poorly

Viral wilt

The causative agent is Rose wilt virus.

Young shoots grow, the leaves become narrow, up to filiform, gradually turn brown and dry. Buds do not form, the bushes lag behind in growth and gradually dry out.

In addition, roses are affected by tobacco necrosis viruses, rhubarb mosaic, apple tree mosaic, tomato bronze, plum necrotic ring spot and some others. Often plants are affected by two viruses at once.

It makes no sense to mention all possible viral diseases, only specialists can determine them, in addition, there are no effective measures to combat them, therefore, measures are reduced to removing damaged parts, or the entire plant in case of severe infection and their subsequent burning. Garden tools after use are disinfected in alcohol or 1% potassium permanganate solution.

Harmful insects:

rose cicada

The rose cicada first settles on the veins, and then spreads over the entire surface of the leaf. Small insects suck the juices from the underside of the leaves. Most often they appear in dry weather. Affected leaves dry up and fall off. Spraying with pyrethrum helps, and with an increase in the number of pests, treatment with Intavir or a similar preparation is recommended.

spider mite

Small sucking pest (0.3-0.4 mm) greenish-yellow, wintering females orange-red. Ticks settle in large colonies on the underside of the leaves. They multiply very quickly in hot and dry summers and with an excess of fertilizers. Spraying with herbal infusions helps well against spider mites. In dry and hot weather, spray roses more often with water.

rose sawflies

The yellow-green caterpillars of the descending sawfly bite into young shoots in spring and make moves inside from top to bottom. As a result, the shoots die off. In summer, on the stems, you can see holes with a white crumb inside, made from the bottom up by a brownish sawfly caterpillar. Affected shoots are pruned and destroyed.

rose leaf

From May, rolled, withered leaves begin to appear. Inside them are small caterpillars with a brownish head. Affected leaves are collected and destroyed. To control insects, it is recommended to attract birds to the garden. With a strong reproduction of leafworms, it is recommended to use chemical protection products that are harmless to bees.

rose aphid

Settles on buds and leaves. The buds do not open and fade, the leaves and young shoots are bent and covered with a sticky mass, and some time later a black soot fungus appears on it. In case of mild infestation, aphids can be washed off with water or wiped with a cloth. With a strong defeat of the rose, it is necessary to spray the plants with an insecticide against sucking pests.

Golden bronze and garden beetle - small beetles that eat stamens, pistils and flower petals, penetrate into buds, which form ugly flowers or their halves. Rose flowers lose their decorative effect or do not open at all. Beetles are collected and destroyed whenever possible. It is better to do it in the morning. Affected shoots are pruned.

Weather
Freezing

Spring frosts at the beginning of the growing season sometimes cause very significant damage to roses. In frozen plants, the edges of the leaves turn brown and dry, and then curl. Bushes do not unravel until the onset of sustained heat. In relatively warm weather, do not forget to water the roses so that they do not suffer from a lack of moisture and do not dry out.

Stagnant water in the soil

The leaves turn yellow, starting from the petiole, and fall off. As a rule, this occurs in damp, heavy, dense soil, and also as a result of excessive watering. Water squeezes air out of the soil, and the roots rot. Plants under such conditions are more likely to be attacked by pests or get sick. In heavy soils, sand should be added and loosened regularly.

Finally. To enjoy healthy and beautiful rose bushes in your garden, you need to take care of disease prevention. First of all, roses need to be planted in well-lit and ventilated areas, on rich soils, properly fertilize, treat pests, and prune correctly. For the prevention of fungal diseases in the spring, treatment with the contact action fungicide "Maxim" or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture is recommended.

To increase the immunity of plants, treatment with Epin, Zircon, Lignohumate has proven itself.

If you want to have as few disease problems as possible, get new, resistant varieties of roses.

The decorative-deciduous houseplant dieffenbachia was recently found in almost every apartment. Now its popularity has slightly decreased, but still, the attention of many flower growers is attracted by original leaves with a beautiful pattern. How to care for dieffenbachia, what types of this flower can be grown at home and how to create the most favorable conditions for this plant - all the necessary information is presented below.

A distinctive feature of this flower is considered to be fast growth. With proper care and good watering, Dieffenbachia is able to throw out about one leaf every two weeks. At this rate of growth, in a few years the plant will reach the ceiling, so the right approach to growing this pet is simply necessary.

Dieffenbachia's homeland is the Tropics of North and South America, but the plant takes root well in our climate. The flower got its name in honor of the Viennese gardener of the botanical garden Josef Dieffenbach, and the right of the discoverer belongs to the Austrian explorer, botanist Heinrich Schott.

About 40 species of this unusual plant have been studied under natural conditions, but far from all are suitable for growing at home. Basically, the restrictions apply to tall giants, because under favorable conditions, the leaves can reach a meter in length or more.

The structure of the plant is almost the same for all its varieties. Dieffenbachia indoor flower is distinguished by a thick, fleshy stem, to which large oval-shaped leaves are attached. Growth occurs from the top, although there are species whose growth point is at the base, so they are able to form a sprawling bush.

The plant belongs to the aroid family, so flowering occurs in the “cob” characteristic of the representatives. At home, this is extremely difficult to achieve, but since dieffenbachia belongs to decorative leafy, the main advantage of the plant is not a flower at all. There are several main types of this unusual pet.

A fairly compact plant - only a meter in height. The shape of the leaves is almost round with a small pointed tip. The color of the leaves is quite interesting: on a dark green background, a scattering of small white and yellow spots.

Dieffenbachia Seguin is very similar to her - the ancestor of many hybrid varieties. The leaves can be up to 15 centimeters wide, but with less pronounced stripes along the lateral veins.

The original leaves are light yellow with a green border. The plant is distinguished by its compact size and bushy form of leaf arrangement.

One of the varieties of this species will be Dieffenbachia Compact - a small bush with a similar color, but only the inner surface of the leaf is not solid light, but interspersed with a green background.

The second name is nice. The plant is distinguished by beautiful symmetrical dark green leaves with longitudinal white stripes along the veins.

A distinctive feature of this plant is hard dark leaves with a distinct white stripe in the middle. There are several equally attractive varieties with similar colors, such as Leopolda, Green Magic or Oersted.

Most flower growers, having learned some of the features of this plant, refuse to start it at home. It's not at all in the capriciousness and whimsicalness of a tropical guest.

The main difficulty lies in doubts: is dieffenbachia poisonous or not. The answer is definitely yes! Under natural conditions, this serves as a natural defense against pests, because many people want to eat juicy leaves.

For growing at home, this becomes an insurmountable obstacle. It is necessary to place the plant in a house where small children live, because inquisitive crumbs love to try everything “by the tooth”, and attractive patterns on the leaves only increase this interest. That is why be sure to make sure that the flower pot is located at an inaccessible height from the child.

If a cat lives in the house, it is advisable to completely abandon this flower. The fact is that for these pets in the apartment there are no inaccessible places, which is fraught with trouble.

For an adult, dieffenbachia juice can be irritating, cause an allergic reaction, and cause mild distress. For a child, such an acquaintance will cost more: a negative reaction can lead to a burn of the mucous membrane and severe allergies.

For a pet, such as a cat or small dog, trying to taste the leaves of this plant can be literally fatal.

Signs associated with dieffenbachia are not limited to the danger of poisoning. According to popular belief, this flower “scares away” male energy and prevents the appearance of a male child.

gender. It is called the "widow" plant, and its appearance is also associated with the inability to start a family or become pregnant.

You can list the reasons why you can’t keep Dieffenbachia at home for a long time, but it’s better to dwell on the positive aspects of such an acquisition. Despite such "glory", this flower is very common in our homes, and this is no coincidence.

The original large leaves, in addition to aesthetic beauty, are very practical. They are able to absorb a large amount of moisture, and then actively release it into the air. Thanks to this exchange, the room will always be comfortable enough for breathing, which is especially important in winter when the heating system is operating.

The second undoubted plus is the formation of oxygen in large volumes. Due to its size, dieffenbachia is able to provide them with an entire room, and a few plants in the house will completely replace an entire greenhouse. The ability of a flower to release oxygen makes it an almost indispensable companion in environmentally problematic cities.

• Promotes a comfortable microclimate.


• Attractive from an aesthetic point of view.


• Unpretentious in care.


• Rarely sick.


• Has bactericidal properties.

In addition, dieffenbachia is able to purify indoor air from many harmful chemical compounds, such as formaldehyde, which can be found in large quantities in furniture, finishing materials, and even household products.

The best option is to get this flower at work, where there is no access to children and pets. Such a neighborhood will certainly increase the ability to work and make staying indoors more comfortable.

Dieffenbachia is unpretentious in care and does not require much attention. Our further information will tell you how to create optimal conditions for this plant for rapid growth and good development.

Growing rules are simple, but have some features. Most importantly, the plant absolutely does not tolerate lime, so it is imperative to defend the water, as well as monitor the acidity of the soil for cultivation. More details about each point of creating comfortable conditions for growing are described below.

The ideal location is away from direct sunlight so as not to cause leaf burns. At the same time, there should be enough light, especially for leaves with decorative patterns. A monochromatic color needs less light, so such a plant can be placed a little further.

Comfortable temperature varies in a fairly wide range, it is from about 15 to 30 degrees Celsius. In the summer, the plant feels great on glazed balconies and verandas.

The main thing is to prevent drafts. In this case, dieffenbachia can abruptly throw off the leaves, so it is better not to break this rule.

The soil for the plant should be moderately acidic, the pot must be chosen large enough. Given the active growth and size of an adult flower, dieffenbachia transplantation at home is an important part of care.

Of course, a tropical plant cannot do without abundant watering. This rule also applies to regular spraying, as well as a water "shower". In addition, hygienic care of the leaves is necessary, but which can accumulate dust. Over time, they become darker and harder, so additional polishing may be necessary.

Watering is carried out with warm settled water, you can use ordinary tap water, but it is better to pass it through the filter. The plant really needs good drainage so that water does not stagnate at the roots.

At the same time, watering is necessarily plentiful and frequent. If you plan to leave for some time, be sure to consider the possibility of arranging watering, otherwise the plant may die.

In winter, Dieffenbachia has a dormant period, so the need for moisture is slightly reduced. At the same time, the earthen ball should not dry out even at this time, otherwise the growth of the plant will stop.

Fertilizers are applied according to the standard scheme, in the spring-autumn period. Mineral and organic top dressings are used, but not limestone compounds.

There is also an important nuance here: varieties of dieffenbachia with a predominance of white leaf color need to be fed with non-nitrogen compounds, so it is better not to use organic matter. From such substances, the leaves will lose their original pattern, becoming monophonic and acquiring a greenish color.

Getting a new plant from the mother is quite simple. As mentioned earlier, the flowering of Dieffenbachia is a rather rare process, so this plant does not propagate by seeds. It is best to use the cutting method, in addition, unnecessary tops often remain when pruning a plant. Reproduction of dieffenbachia at home is easiest to do from these "waste". In addition, an old plant with fallen leaves at the bottom looks quite unattractive, so you can rejuvenate the flower by removing the top and cutting the stem into several segments.

• On the cut handle, there must be at least one “knot” with a leaf.


• After cutting, it is necessary to slightly dry the process, leaving it for about a day without water.


• The cutting can be placed horizontally on the prepared soil and covered with foil.


• After the plant puts out the first shoots, you can move the pot to a permanent place, water and feed like an adult plant.


• When two or three permanent leaves appear on the shoot, you can cut off the cutting and plant it again.


• The second way is to put the cut stem in water until roots form. In this case, there is a high risk that Dieffenbachia will grow asymmetrical, so it is advisable to use the first method.

Dieffenbachia can also be propagated by aerial shoots. To do this, an incision is made on the stem, wet moss is fitted, and the entire structure is fixed with an opaque film. After some time, just below the incision, new shoots will appear, which must be removed and rooted in the ground.

The optimal period is winter time. At rest, the plant still continues to grow, so you need to monitor the root system. As soon as the pot becomes small and the roots begin to peek out, this is a signal to change the place of residence. It is desirable to do this by transshipment, without touching the earthen ball inside the roots. A new pot is chosen about 3-4 centimeters larger than the diameter and the same depth.

When the earthen ball with the plant is inside the new pot, it is necessary to fill in slightly acidic soil around the edges (it is advisable to use a purchased one), or a self-prepared mixture. It consists of two parts of leafy earth, one part of sphagnum and peat, as well as a small amount of fine river sand. A drainage layer must be laid at the bottom of the pot so that moisture does not stagnate at the roots.

After transplantation, the plant does not need to be fed for at least a month (if a purchased mixture was used), but abundant watering is a prerequisite for successful acclimatization.

Fast flower growth is not always desirable, so in some cases it is better to make height adjustments. Pruning is carried out with a sharp blade or garden pruner, be sure to follow safety rules when working.

The milky juice of the plant can cause burns to the mucous membranes, so it is advisable to protect your eyes and work with protective gloves. In case of contact with the skin, it is necessary to quickly wash off the juice with water and use an oil or greasy cream to soften the affected area.

The cut points must be blotted from the juice with a dry cloth and sprinkled with crushed activated charcoal. Removed parts of the plant can be used for propagation by cuttings.

Despite the relative resistance to common diseases, as well as innate protection against pests, some problems can be encountered when growing this flower. The most common situations and possible causes are described below.

Dieffenbachia spotted is my favorite plant. A herbaceous plant native to the tropics with large showy leaves, up to forty centimeters long. In my room, I grew a flower of 2 meters, but below the leaves began to fall off, and the plant begins to resemble some kind of palm tree.
To avoid this, I started trimming the leaves. DO NOT forget that dieffenbachia juice irritates the skin and mucous membranes, so be sure to wash your hands with soap after trimming (personal example).
Watering: from spring to autumn, I water my dieffenbachia abundantly, every other day for sure. And in winter I rarely water it, it is necessary to water it with cool water in summer, and lukewarm water in winter. The soil is kept slightly moist at all times, but should not be too damp. Before watering, I let the water stand (2 days) so that the water becomes soft.
Reproduction: I am very bad at propagating, so my mother does it all for me: She cuts the trunks of 5-7 cm, which are rooted with soil heating at 30 °. Some forms give child shoots, the mother cuts and roots them. To rejuvenate the plant, I cut off the top with part of the trunk, as a result, it takes root well.
Care features: I wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth (2 times a week)
Transplantation: Every year in the spring - better at the end of April, I transplant a flower (required). The soil is black soil, it would be nice to add a little charcoal (do it carefully and gently). Good luck! if so, ask)

How to grow a beautiful dieffenbachia

Blog florist Ilyukh777

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Comments

We noticed that in the room in which dieffenbachia grows, it is difficult to sleep, the head hurts in the morning. Then we learned that at night it absorbs oxygen. This plant is not for the bedroom.

Yes? And I have one of the two Dieffenbachia is in the bedroom. Of course, I did not notice the problems associated with it, but since it has such a property - to absorb oxygen - I'd better transfer it to the living room.

I don't want to scare you, of course, but I'll tell you a little secret. All plants absorb oxygen at night and release carbon dioxide. The process of photosynthesis (or the absorption of carbon dioxide and the release of oxygen) occurs only in the light.

Dieffenbachia: home care

Dieffenbachia (lat. Dieffenbachia) is a fairly popular indoor plant from the Aroid family. Its homeland is tropical forests in South and Central America. The flower became famous thanks to the Australian-born botanist Heinrich Schott. He named this plant after Josef Dieffenbach, a gardener from Schönbrun Palace (in Vienna).

In room conditions, the plant has been cultivated for over 150 years. The flower is used for landscaping houses, apartments, offices, shopping galleries, libraries and other public places. The flower attracts attention thanks to a beautiful, compact bush and variegated bright leaves. Many flower growers dream of having such a plant at home.

flower description

In room conditions, some types of dieffenbachia reach two meters in height. The root system is powerful, branched. At the top of the flower and at the base of the stem, growth points are visible for the development of new shoots. From the points of shoot formation, fleshy, straight, thick green stems are formed. In some plant species, a leafy cap forms at the top of the stem, while in others, opposite leaves grow throughout the stem.

The leaves are wide, large, pointed or rounded at the edges, covered with a unique pattern. They show lighter blotches, stripes, spots, streaks of yellow, beige, light green, pink and white shades. The length of the leaves in some varieties reaches 60 centimeters, a width of 40 centimeters.

Depending on the form, dieffenbachia are divided into tree and shrub.

The tree-like variety has a strong and thick trunk, there are no branches. The trunk is exposed when the flower matures. An adult flower is similar to a palm tree.

The shrub variety of dieffenbachia is low. It has branched stems and many leaves. Leaves form near the base of the trunk. The bushes are voluminous, dense.

Inflorescences in all species look like cobs, surrounded by a creamy green petal. The fruits that emerge from the flowers are orange or red berries.

Species and varieties with photos

In nature, there are about 50 species of dieffenbachia, but only a third of the total number of plants is suitable for growing at home. They, in turn, differ in the shape, size and color of the plant. Today, there are a large number of new varieties and hybrids, which sometimes do not fit any specific description.

Spotted or Painted

The most popular type of dieffenbachia is Spotted or Painted, it is also the ancestor of other species of this plant. It includes 17 different varieties, such as: Camilla, Compact and others.

The spotted dieffenbachia has a large green trunk. The stem grows 40-45 centimeters in height in one year. Reaching one meter, the growth of the plant stops.

Leaves reach 45-50 centimeters in length and 13-15 centimeters in width. Oblong, pointed green leaves. The pattern on the leaves combines white and yellowish spots of irregular shape and clear stripes. To the touch, the foliage is rough, smooth or covered with convex patterns. The surface is glossy or matte. Dieffenbachia rarely blooms indoors. If this happened, then the white-yellow, small flowers are practically invisible against the background of the leaves. The flower pot should be placed at some distance from the window.

The most common color is marble. It can be identified by color transitions from pale green to dark green shades. These include hybrids of Bauze and Bauman.

You can also find a different color when the leaf is colorless in the middle (due to the lack of chlorophyll), and the edges are painted with a contrasting color.

Variety Mars is a variety of Spotted dieffenbachia. The leaves are dark green, decorated with a marble light pattern of dots and strokes, merging into a common tone. The variety does not respond well to organic fertilizers and drafts.

dieffenbachia maroba

Dieffenbachia Maroba is similar in color to Mars, but has wide, slightly ribbed, shiny leaves.

Dieffenbachia Seguina

Dieffenbachia Seguin is considered a common species. This is a bushy species with large, wide, dark green foliage with slightly pronounced yellow jagged stains in the middle of the leaf and a small number of veins. Compared to the spotted dieffenbachia, the foliage of this species is smaller in size. Few side veins. Petioles are shortened.

This species is used to breed new varieties, hybrids, such as: Tropic Snow, Green Magic.

Tropic Snow

Tropic Snow grows up to 80 centimeters in height. The leaves have large white spots.

Green Magic

A distinctive feature of the Green Magic variety is a bright white central vein on the leaf and a dark green background. Often it is complemented by light, thin lateral veins. The background is even, without inclusions. The leaves are shiny, dense, large. The shape is almost oval, with a slight sharpening.

Dieffenbachia Mix

A common bush species is Dieffenbachia Mix. This is a low-growing species with a variety of foliage colors. The base tone of the leaf is light green.

dieffenbachia bush

Dieffenbachia bush is one of the most unpretentious representatives. The flower grows up to 70 centimeters. Foliage color is light green. A large white vein is visible in the middle. Externally, the flower is similar to Dieffenbachia Leopold.

Dieffenbachia Leopold

Leopolda is a dwarf dieffenbachia with dark green ellipsoid-shaped leaves. The length of the trunk reaches 5 centimeters, the diameter does not exceed 2 centimeters. Shoots are fleshy, short with burgundy and light green stains. Dark green leaves of an ellipsoid shape, wide, up to 30-35 centimeters long, up to 15 centimeters wide.

The central vein is white, wide. Petioles are short, pale green with a lilac tint. The inflorescence is an ear no more than 9 centimeters in size, covered with a white petal 17 centimeters long.

Camilla is a tall plant with succulent green lanceolate leaves that are edged with light or dark tones of green and a beige or white center. With age, white spots on the leaves disappear. The flower grows up to two meters in height. The stem is strong. The plant adapts to both humid and dry indoor air. The best place for a flower will be a shaded corner.

Dieffenbachia Reflector

Dieffenbachia Reflector is demanding on the conditions of detention and care. The flower is distinguished by camouflage coloring of velvety foliage. Yellowish or green spots on a dark green background are stretched along the lateral veins or have a rounded shape. A white stripe runs down the middle of the sheet.

With good care, the plant bushes. The color of the leaves changes with different lighting and viewing angles. The variety is moisture-loving, afraid of the cold.

Compacta is a small dense bush with green foliage. The plant is similar in appearance to the Camilla variety, but is distinguished by a white intermittent stripe in the middle.

Inclusions of the main color in the form of islands, specks. Petioles are short. Near the central furrow, beige spots are visible along the entire length of the leaf.

Oersted is a plant with heart-shaped or pointed leaves. In length, the leaves reach 30-35 centimeters. The color is light green or dark with a metallic sheen of gray-green. A light stripe is visible along the central vein.

Home Care

At home, dieffenbachia grows in a humid and hot environment. In order for the plant to grow and delight with its beauty in room conditions, it needs to provide proper care.
During active growth, the flower needs more attention.

During the dormant period, due to the reduction of daylight hours, flower care changes. If you continue active care, new small leaves appear that spoil the whole appearance.

A new leaf appears on the flower every week. In order for the plant to grow quickly and please with its beauty, it needs to provide good lighting. Dieffenbachia is not afraid of the shadow, but responds favorably to sufficient lighting. Direct sunlight when placing a pot with a plant should not fall on it. Best of all, the flower grows on the southeast or east side.

Large-growing varieties are best placed near daylight or shielded from light with a curtain or white paper.

Proper Dieffenbachia Care: Video

Temperature

In spring and summer, the optimum temperature for dieffenbachia is 20-22 degrees. The plant can withstand temperatures up to 30 degrees, but the humidity must be high.

In winter, the plant must be kept at a temperature equal to 16-18 degrees. At lower temperatures, the flower loses the lower leaves. Sudden changes in temperature adversely affect its condition.

Watering is carried out with settled or purified, warm water. The frequency of watering directly depends on the time of year. In winter, watering is done as the soil dries up, in summer - more often. The land in summer should always be wet, but not swampy.

The air in the room should be humid and warm. In dry air, moist expanded clay, sand, perlite or moss should be poured into the plant tray. You can put a container of water nearby.

For additional moisture, the plant is sprayed from a spray bottle. The dust accumulated on the leaves is wiped with a damp sponge once a week.

The soil for Dieffenbachia can be bought ready-made or made independently. The earth must have a slightly acidic environment. To do this, you need to take: 4 parts of sod land, part of leafy soil, part of peat and part of sand. The mixture is stirred and distributed among the pots. As a drainage, you can take vermiculite, coarse sand, fine gravel, expanded clay.

Transplant (how to transplant with a long trunk)

If the leaves lose color, elasticity and fall off, then this is a clear sign of a cramped pot. The plant needs a transplant.

Dieffenbachia is transplanted once a year. An adult plant is transplanted at least once every 2-4 years. The best time for this is February - May. In the summer, in the heat, it is better not to do this.

The roots of the flower are brittle, this procedure must be done carefully. The pot should be taken 2-3 centimeters larger than the previous one.

Old and bare plants with a long trunk are cut off.

The flower is carefully removed from the pot and, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a larger container with a fresh substrate.

Fertilize the plant in spring and summer, once every 2 weeks. For this, mineral and organic fertilizers are taken in low concentration. In winter, during the dormant period, the plant does not need to be fed.

How dieffenbachia blooms photo

The flower blooms only in spring, flowering lasts a couple of days. Flowering occurs during April and early May. The growth of the plant will then stop. Leaves may fall from below. All forces are directed to the development of flowers. If this is a variety with inconspicuous flowers, it is better to cut them off immediately.

Cob-shaped inflorescences, similar to callas or water lilies, are covered with a creamy green petal. In some species of dieffenbachia, the flowers are inconspicuous and are lost among the foliage. A wilted flower stays on the stem for a long time.

How to crop

If the plant has a long bare trunk with a rare bunch of leaves at the top, the flower needs to be pruned. The stem is cut at a height of 10 centimeters from the base. A knot should remain below the cut point. New shoots will grow from it, which can later be transplanted. The cut stem can be divided into parts (leaving growth points) and sent for propagation.

reproduction

To breed a flower, you need to cut off the top of an adult plant, dry the cut and sprinkle with crushed activated charcoal. The cutting is lowered into a jar of water. Kornevin, Zircon or any other growth stimulator is added to the water. The temperature in the room for germinating a flower should be at least 20 degrees Celsius. After the appearance of the roots, the plant can be planted in the ground.

A pot with drainage holes is taken, a layer of expanded clay, broken brick or perlite is poured on the bottom, carefully mixed soil is poured on top. The earth is shed with a warm solution of potassium permanganate, and after the excess moisture drains, the flower is planted. With proper care, the plant quickly grows and grows.

Dieffenbachia can also be propagated by seed and air layering, but this is time consuming and labor intensive and therefore less commonly used.

In order for a plant to propagate by seeds, it must be pollinated. The female flowers are at the bottom and the male flowers are at the top. The female flowers are covered by the bottom of the petal. For pollination, you need to cut the petal-veil and place pollen from the inflorescence there with a soft brush, the incision is sealed with tape. After the flower withers, the berries will ripen on the cob. After wrinkling them, you can collect the seeds and sow them in the soil.

For air layers, if there are no adventitious roots on the stem, notches are made. This section of the trunk is covered with wet sphagnum moss and covered with an opaque film. After the appearance of the roots, the film is removed, the stem is cut off along with the moss. The plant is separated from the parent stem below the roots and planted in the substrate.

Pruning and rooting dieffenbachia: video

Diseases and pests

If the leaves lose color, grow slowly, lose elasticity, deform and fall off, you need to pay attention to the temperature of the flower content, lighting, watering, top dressing and pot size. If all these indicators are normal, then it is quite possible that the plant is damaged by such diseases as: root and brown rot, bacteriosis, anthracnose, bronzeness, fusarium, viral leaf mosaic.

If dieffenbachia is affected by various diseases or pests, such as: spider mites, scale insects, thrips, aphids and mealybugs, then the flower must be removed from other flowers and its treatment should begin. To do this, take a solution of laundry soap. The leaves are wiped with a solution on both sides. Then the flower is sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, Karbofos, Aktellik or any other protective preparations.

A severely affected plant can be transplanted or cut off; if this does not help, the flower must be thrown away.

Growing problems

If the plant is grown in inappropriate conditions or its care does not meet the standards, the flower changes its appearance, begins to wither, this is manifested by various signs.

Why leaves turn yellow

Over watering, hard water, sunburn, lack of space in the pot lead to yellowing of the foliage. Drafts and proximity to heating radiators can also harm the flower, while the leaves turn yellow and fall off.

If the leaves begin to lose color, it is possible that direct sunlight is falling on them, which discolors them.

Illumination in summer through a thin curtain is optimal for the plant. In winter, the flower needs additional lighting. The duration of a daylight hours should be about 10-12 hours.

If the leaves turn yellow, the stem becomes soft, begins to rot, then this indicates improper watering and temperature. Reducing the amount of watering and increasing the air temperature can correct the problem. Damaged areas are trimmed and sprinkled with charcoal. The soil in the pot must be replaced with a new one. If the plant is severely damaged, the healthy part is cut off and rooted in water.

The leaves of the plant also turn yellow when affected by spider mites, scale insects and aphids. Pests feed on the juices of the flower, gradually destroying it.

Ticks can be recognized by small dots on the leaves. Frequent spraying and wiping the leaves with a damp cloth helps protect the plant from the pest.

The shield is located on the stems, veins and forms brown spots on the leaves. The pest is removed with an alcohol-soap solution.

Aphids are removed from the plant with soapy water. In case of severe damage, chemical preparations are used.

Leaves dry

The leaves dry due to large temperature changes, dry soil in a pot. If young leaves dry and fall off, then this indicates low temperatures and a draft. Normalization of containment conditions avoids this problem.

Leaves dry and due to bacteriosis. The disease manifests itself as weeping ulcers and spots with an unpleasant odor. The disease is not treatable. Such a plant is removed, and the pot from under it is disinfected.

The leaves curl or do not open as they grow, due to watering with cold water. Water for watering a flower should be settled during the day.

Also, the leaves can dry and fall off due to the natural aging processes of the flower, the problem is eliminated by planting the flower.

Dry tips of leaves

The tips dry on leaves that have a lower location. This situation is a sign of natural aging. If the process has affected all the leaves, then this is a sign that the flower is suffering from a lack of moisture, dry air and high room temperature. The plant needs to be sprayed more often, removed from heating radiators.

Leaves wither

If Dieffenbachia wilts, then Fusarium may be the cause. The causative agents of this disease are in the ground, affect the roots, brown elongated spots appear on the trunk and leaves, the plant withers. To combat Fusarium, the plant must be transplanted into another pot, while the rot is removed from the roots, the affected areas are treated with a fungicide.

Anthracnose forms black-brown spots on the leaves with a yellow border. Leaves wither with a strong defeat. The disease appears due to excessive watering, high room temperature and dry air. To get rid of the disease, you need to normalize the watering and temperature regime. Diseased leaves are treated with a fungicide.

Root rot first affects the roots, then affects the trunk, the plant withers and dies. It appears with an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil. If the plant is affected by rot, the plant must be transplanted, the roots should be cut, removing the affected areas, and treated with a fungicide. Watering is reduced.

Why is dieffenbachia crying

With frequent watering, high humidity, a sharp change in air pressure and in cloudy weather, the plant cries. This is due to the high humidity in the air. The leaves at the same time evaporate little moisture, and the roots from the soil absorb a lot of moisture. When the air is moist, the water secreted by the plant rolls off the leaves in drops. To reduce crying, you need to reduce the watering of the flower.

Why do leaves curl

If the leaves curl up, you need to check if there is a draft in the room. If the air temperature drops to 10 degrees, then the flower will not be able to actively develop.

Can you keep it at home?

Dieffenbachia is an attractive and unpretentious plant with beneficial properties for health. If there is a flower in the room, a headache, fatigue, and a surge of energy are noted near it. The flower is considered an excellent air purifier.

Is it poisonous?

The only disadvantage of the plant is its toxicity. The fleshy stems of the flower contain a thick white juice that causes burns to the skin and mucous membranes upon contact. In a house with small children and pets, it is better not to start a plant. When transplanting, pruning plants, you need to wear gloves.

Signs and superstitions

The plant enriches the room with positive energy, brings a positive attitude, invigorates. This flower can be started by people striving for victories and new achievements. With the help of a flower, you can resist the intrigues of enemies, quickly find a way out of any situation. The flower can be kept both in the house and in the office, where various issues and problems are often solved. The plant helps to find the right solutions in controversial issues.

Dieffenbachia women will keep youth and beauty, soothes. The best place to place a flower is an office and a kitchen. It is not recommended to put it in the bedroom and living room.

In addition to the positive impact, there is also a negative impact of the flower.

There is a belief that where this flower grows, there are rarely guests. They feel the negative energy of dieffenbachia, try to leave faster and not return.

Girls of marriageable age cannot find a groom for a long time.

The flower is considered a husband, he expels males from the house.

This plant harms men, weakening their potency, making them infertile. At the same time, the family cannot have children for a long time. Husbands begin to cheat and leave their wives.

If the plant bloomed, this indicates an unfavorable environment in the house. Dieffenbachia blooms when something needs to be changed in the house. The plant sheds its leaves and begins to rot.

Dieffenbachia care is not very difficult. Knowing all the rules for care, you can grow a beautiful and bright flower at home. This plant is surrounded by various beliefs, but its beauty is mesmerizing and many flower growers, no matter what, bring it to their home.

Frequently Asked Questions: Dieffenbachia

1. Dieffenbachia leaves are almost all small and green (and should be 2/3 white), the same leaves, which, as expected, are colored, begin to turn green a week and a half after the appearance.

Answer: Shadow is a loose concept. The leaves may be small and green from lack of light. Shadow is not darkness, just direct rays should not fall. Most variegated plants with a lack of light lose their leaf spot. Or your land is bad. Try to feed it with fertilizers and transplant it into special soil (for green-leaved plants). And if you have an imported flower, there are almost always problems, because before the sale it grew in ideal conditions.

2. My Dieffenbachia has yellow leaves underneath. What is it connected with?

Answer: This may be from drafts, which Dieffenbachia does not tolerate (although not all varieties).

3. Dieffenbachia 3 years old, the trunk is bare, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Just old and time to cut?

Answer: Check if it is standing in a draft; leaves may well fall from this. In addition, perhaps she is simply cramped in a pot. Try repotting and adding good soil.

4. Dieffenbachia leaves are torn.

Answer: The problem of many aroid lovers. Opinions:

My huge dieffenbachia has the same rigmarole: the leaf does not have time to come out of the sinus, but is already opening, as a result - torn edges. From what it was, no matter how much I looked for it, I didn’t find it, but I found a way to fight: when the new sheet is still tightly folded, I tie it with a soft thread so that it first comes out of the sinus, then I remove the thread, and it immediately unwinds without any damage. The main thing is not to trace the moment.

The fact is that the leaves grow faster than they have time to turn around. I began to grow normally after the introduction of urea and potassium-phosphorus fertilizer in a week. The leaves all unfolded, but some remained wavy, while the rest are growing normally.

And further. Such a misfortune occurs in the middle of autumn. Maybe he, thus, reacts to a change in lighting? Is he trying to reach up faster and therefore does not have time to unfold the leaves?

My Dieffenbachia's young leaves also unfolded strangely when she was in a draft. And the draft was quite small.

What is your reason - decide for yourself.

5. Dieffenbachia releases new leaves - variegated, and then they begin to turn green from the edges to the center. I thought that the lighting was to blame - but moving to another, brighter place did not help much.

Answer: This is a natural process - with age (after 7-8 months), the leaves become less variegated, the light center decreases, but the leaf does not turn green completely. If there is not enough lighting, then the young leaves will not be variegated. By the way, dieffenbachia can lose color both from a lack and from an excess of light, for example, when exposed to direct sunlight.

6. What does dieffenbachia love and what is it afraid of?

Answer: Dieffenbachia loves fairly humid air, although, regardless of humidity, the lower leaves eventually age and fall off. Dieffenbachia does not like drafts, dryness, hypothermia and overheating. Dieffenbachia, for all their seeming strength, fall into decay from cold or dry air, drafts, and, most importantly, cannot stand the hypothermia of an earthy coma. If she stands on the windowsill, she may catch a cold. When transplanting, you can remove part of the roots, the plant will grow more rapidly. It is noticed that the larger the pot, the larger the leaves.

7. How to root the process of dieffenbachia?

Answer: Dieffenbachia shoots take root, as a rule, simply - you can root the shoots in water (as an option - in a dark bottle), the roots appear in 2.5-3 weeks, do not forget to add fresh water. Or just in the ground. Plant immediately into the ground in a small pot, and as the roots appear at the bottom of the pot, into a decent-sized pot.

8. I have a piece of dieffenbachia trunk. But the trick is that I can't tell which is up and which is down.

Answer: If you don’t know where her “legs” are, I advise you to plant them “lying down”. If on a piece of the stem you can see from which side the kidney will grow, then turn this side up. Find a node. The kidney is a slightly elongated thickening near the node, it is slightly lighter than the trunk. So this kidney is immediately above (!) the node. And below the node, there are several smaller point bulges along the circumference, these are potential roots. Start from this "up" and "down".

9. Filled dieffenbachia, the roots are alive. What to do?

Answer: Cut off the top and root, check the remaining stump for nodes, from which there may be new leaves. If there is, cover the stump with a jar, but it is necessary to ventilate and water moderately.

10. The leaves began to turn yellow and dry, starting from the very tip. Maybe the pot is too big and the earth does not have time to dry out? But Dieffenbachia loves humidity. Tell me who knows what it could be.

Answer: Do the tips dry immediately, or turn yellow first? If the dry tip has a yellow rim, then this is from overflow. It is very difficult to adapt to a large pot. She, of course, loves humidity, but not in a pot, but in the air. Probably need to spray more often, and water less often. And yet - she terribly dislikes drafts (even small ones), that is, even a small stream of air from the gap is enough for her to react.

11. All new leaves come out with such difficulty and all are somehow twisted and small.

Answer: Perhaps she lacks light or nutrients. Did you transplant it or does it grow in peat? If you dare to transplant, check the roots. Perhaps nematodes have started up (leaves from this grow as if rumpled).

12. In dieffenbachia, the leaves “look” down, like withering!

Answer: I think yours looks like this. Still, a sluggish leaf - it is sluggish, and you have normal elastic leaves. New leaves become heavy as they grow (leaf size up to 50 cm) and hang. And in bush forms, the leaves really look up. It looks like a false palm tree and the leaves should be like that. In my opinion, there is no reason to worry, but it looks very cool.

13. Does she need a large pot, or does she prefer a cramped one?

Answer: The larger the pot, the larger the leaves will be. Dieffenbachia twists the roots of an earthen lump very quickly. Any plant is preferable not to a cramped pot, but a little more than the volume of the root system. If you are transferring a plant, then increase the pot in width and depth by 1-2 fingers - no more. If you plant with a cutting or transplant with the destruction of an earthen coma, then it is advisable to pick up a small container. It is better to transplant in six months into a large container than to ruin the plant with rotten roots.

14. The lower leaves of the bush dieffenbachia began to turn yellow! At the same time, many new leaves appear. Do you think this is a natural process of dying off the “old” ones?

Answer: See how many leaves turn yellow. In principle, the yellowing and dying off of the lower leaves is a completely healthy natural process. You shouldn't worry.

15. Tell me, please, if it is necessary and possible to cut leaves with dried edges from Dieffenbachia.

Answer: Leaves will not turn green. There is a process: new leaves climb, and the old ones turn yellow and dry, this is natural. Of course, you can trim the dried edges, but carefully, along the edge, without affecting the living greenery.

16. Dieffenbachia leaves have a gray coating from water, although I wash the leaves regularly.

Answer: Specialists advise removing plaque with non-alcoholic beer, diluted in half with water. And just recently, someone shared a new recipe - use buttermilk.

17. Dieffenbachia grows crooked!

Answer: There is only one way out - to illuminate from above, or constantly twist. You can also tie tightly to something straight.

18. Something similar to a rash has formed on the leaves of dieffenbachia on the back of the leaves, and they begin to turn yellow and dry out. And - on the reverse side of the sheet, I noticed small black crawling ones. Brown spots appeared on the leaves, the leaves wither, curl. What to do?

Answer: Black ones are either ticks (they are very small, rounded), or thrips (larger and elongated). Brown spots may be from spider mites. In any case, Actellik, Fitoverm or Agrovertin will help.

If there is nothing at hand, immediately wash the plant with soap (moreover, leave the soaped plant in the bathroom for 20 minutes), then rinse. But this, so to speak, is an ambulance, you still have to process it. You can infuse garlic (10 g of garlic pour 1 liter of cold water, leave for a day and spray, and always so that it falls on the underside of the leaf). Yes, and you will have to wash and process all the plants, plus window sill frames and everything they stand in (spider mites, for example, love all sorts of secluded places).

19. Dieffenbachia bloomed! It is better to cut it, how often do you do it with ornamental foliage plants?

Answer: It is important that the plant, which is kept for the sake of beautiful leaves, does not lose its main beauty. And flowering weakens it, the lower leaves become sluggish, the plant can go bald. So cut it out.

20. The tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, and not only in old leaves, but also in relatively new ones. This yellowness still captures the edge on some leaves.

Answer: Follow the watering of the plant. If the tips are immediately yellow and dry, this is from dryness (besides rubbing, she needs spraying, in general, during the heating season, spraying is necessary in any case for all plants, well, except for cacti and succulents, of course). If the tips first turn brown and wet, and then dry out, this is an overflow. In addition, pest damage is not ruled out. The pest, in principle, is not so difficult to notice. For example, leaves turn yellow, but, as a rule, not only from the tips and edges, but can also be in the center, from a spider mite. Look from the reverse side of the sheet - the spider mite is the most difficult to identify: on the reverse side of the sheet there is as if light fine dust or grains of sand - you can take a magnifying glass or touch it with your finger - if you move, then it’s for sure.

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Causes of yellowing dieffenbachia leaves

Dieffenbachia quickly reacts to changing conditions of detention by worsening its appearance. Its leaves often turn yellow, and sometimes even experienced flower growers cannot name the reason for this with certainty.

Indeed, yellowing of the leaves is caused by many factors: very bright lighting, excessive watering, changes in temperature and humidity, pest attacks, and some others.

In the article, you will learn what to do if the leaves of dieffenbachia turn yellow, and you will also see the reasons why this happens.

direct sunlight

When direct sunlight hits the Dieffenbachia leaves, yellow-brown burns are formed, which lead to yellowing and drying of the entire leaf.

It should be remembered that Dieffenbachia should not be kept in the sun, but in partial shade..

In summer, the plant should be placed on the southeast window, where the sun's rays will fall on it only in the morning.

Here the lighting will be sufficient for good growth, but without direct sun. If this is not possible and Dieffenbachia grows on the south window, in order to avoid burns, it must be shaded.

In winter, the flower requires fairly intense lighting. It is better to rearrange it on the most illuminated window sill. The winter sun's rays will not harm the flower; you should not be afraid of the direct sun in the cold season.

Strong hydration

In case of decay, Dieffenbachia needs an emergency transplant and reduced watering. and sometimes that doesn't help either. We have to cut and root the surviving tops.

To protect the plant from decay, it is necessary to strictly observe the mode of watering it. You can not fill the flower, but you should not overdry the earthen ball, as this can cause the death of the plant. Keeping the soil moist but not wet is easy enough. Watering is carried out only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried to a depth of 2-3 cm.

Sometimes plants turn yellow as a result of root rot and with the correct watering regimen. This happens when the composition of the soil is incorrectly selected. Dieffenbachia soil should be light. In heavy soils, stagnant water and rotting of the roots are possible.

Low air humidity

With insufficient watering and low humidity, Dieffenbachia leaves begin to turn yellow from below. First, the tips turn yellow, then the entire leaf blade. Such plates eventually dry out and fall off. Often this is accompanied by a loss of color and lightening of the upper leaves.

Often in a city apartment it is difficult to create the necessary air humidity for dieffenbachia. In summer, the room is quite hot and dry, in winter, during the heating season, the air is strongly dried by radiators. Therefore, for many inexperienced flower growers, dieffenbachia is a long bare trunk with several leaves at the top.

In order for the plant to retain its beauty, regular watering and spraying is not enough. It is useful to place it in a tray with a wet substrate: expanded clay, sand or moss. The substrate will humidify the air near the plant, as well as help preserve its green mass.

Decrease in temperature and draft

Dieffenbachia is a thermophilic tropical plant. At low temperatures, dieffenbachia can drop all leaves(especially with a sharp drop in temperature).

The leaves turn yellow very quickly throughout the plant and fall off, except for the top ones.

The reaction of dieffenbachia to a draft is drying and yellowing of the tips of the leaves. If such symptoms occur, you need to remove the plant away from opening windows, otherwise it may turn completely yellow, and then lose all foliage.

Dieffenbachia can also react when kept in an air-conditioned room. Being near the air conditioner under a stream of cold air, it will certainly shed its leaves and lose its beautiful appearance.

In very small pots, the plant becomes so crowded that it can no longer fully develop. At the same time, its growth slows down, it does not give new shoots, its leaves begin to turn yellow, starting from the bottom. Regular transplanting to a new land helps to maintain the decorative appearance of Dieffenbachia..

The plant has a fairly powerful root system, which grows rapidly in the first years of life. Therefore, young plants must be transplanted annually into new land and a larger pot. With regular transplantation, the flower retains most of its leaves, losing only the lowest ones. If you skip the transplant, then this will immediately affect the appearance of the young plant, the leaves of which will begin to turn yellow and die.

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Mature plants over 5 years old can be repotted less often, as their root system grows much more slowly and fills the pot only every 2-3 years. But if the Dieffenbachia began to turn yellow and fall off the leaves, it is necessary to transplant it, as it can lose its leaf mass, which is very difficult to restore.

Pest infestation

When a spider mite is damaged, yellow spots first appear on the leaves of the plant, which then capture the entire leaf plate.

This pest is easy to detect on the underside of the leaves, which may be completely covered with fine cobwebs. Usually, treatment with special chemicals allows you to quickly destroy the pest.

Already yellowed plates are not restored. Over time, they dry up and fall off. But the elimination of errors in the care of the plant will lead to the growth of young healthy greenery.

Bush varieties will become lush and green in color. Old tall plants that have lost their leaves are best updated by cutting and rooting the tops. After that, new plants need to create optimal conditions for growth and development.

Other causes of yellowing of dieffenbachia leaves

Consider other likely causes of yellow leaves in Dieffenbachia.

lack of lighting

Dieffenbachia leaves can turn yellow not only with an excess, but also with a lack of lighting. If you keep the plant in partial shade, very soon it will begin to shed its leaves. First, the lowest leaf blades will turn yellow and fall off, then the flower will lose most of the green mass.

Thus, the reason why the lower leaves of dieffenbachia turn yellow is a lack of lighting.

Very often, leaf fall begins in winter. Due to the small amount of sun and short daylight hours, the stem of the plant is stretched and exposed, the leaves fall off. At this time of the year, it is better to highlight the plant with special lamps, lengthening the daylight hours.

Lack of nutrition or excess of minerals in the soil

Dieffenbachia reacts very quickly to the amount of nutrients in the soil. When there are not enough of them, she sheds her leaves. This happens in the absence of top dressing or in the absence of regular transplants. Therefore, it is necessary to transplant even the largest plants, since ordinary soil fertilizer is not enough here.

Sometimes dieffenbachia is fed too often and intensively. Too much nutrition can also cause leaves to turn yellow. This plant must be fertilized very carefully, a high concentration of fertilizers will lead to leaf fall and loss of decorative appearance.

Incorrectly selected soil composition

Dieffenbachia is very demanding on the composition of the soil. Most of all, its appearance is affected by the acidity of the soil. The plant does not tolerate alkaline soils and very quickly responds to the presence of lime in the soil.

With such a soil composition, all the leaves of this flower can turn yellow in a short time. To save dieffenbachia, an emergency transplant into the soil of a suitable composition will be required.

Why do the tips of the leaves of dieffenbachia dry

When growing Dieffenbachia, flower growers are often faced with the drying of the tips of the leaves of their plants. Often they cannot eliminate this problem, since it is very difficult to establish what exactly causes the drying of the leaves of the plant.

Dieffenbachia is a rather capricious indoor species that can react in a similar way to almost any unfavorable factor.

Most often, drying of the tips occurs when:

• Low air humidity;
• Overfeed the plants with fertilizers.

Insufficient air humidity can even lead to complete drying of the leaf blades of the plant.

But the tips can dry out when this factor is combined with high ambient temperatures.

Most often this happens in the summer, when, at an acceptable humidity for the plant, heat suddenly sets in. In order for the leaves not to dry out, the humidity needs to be increased even more. It is necessary to create a corner of a tropical climate for Dieffenbachia, and this is not easy in a city apartment.

Sometimes the leaves of the plant begin to dry around the edges due to abundant feeding. So that the leaf blades do not turn yellow then and do not fall off, it is necessary to stop feeding for 1 month, and then start feeding with caution. And to restore the beauty of the plant, you can cut off the dry parts of the leaves with scissors.

dieffenbachia

My dieffenbachia is very tall, and the leaves are only at the top, 10 pieces, and they are somehow twisted and the edges dry, young leaves still climb, but some of them immediately climb and dry without having time to straighten up. And in general, I looked at pictures with this plant and almost all of them, the leaves are so even and beautiful, but in my case they immediately tear and curl up (What is it?

Maybe the ground is bad? Or is the sun not enough?

may be a lack of nutrients.

And I have it sitting in an ugly little pot, standing in partial shade and nothing, green and fluffy. Maybe talk to her?

Examine the pest - a spider mite is possible, it is necessary to treat it with actellik .. If your trunk is long and the leaves are on top, then it can be re-rooted in water or earth by treating the cut with root or heteroauxin and covering it with a jar on top to increase humidity and temperature. Ventilate daily. If the leaves dry, it is from dry air. It is necessary to increase the humidity of the air: put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles, cover the ground in a pot with wet moss, put a container with water next to it, spray it. Diffused light is also needed, but not direct sunlight, and you need to water it after the earthen clod dries out by half. Top dressing should be carried out in spring and summer, in winter a dormant period with limited watering is necessary. To quickly restore the plant, you can also spray the plant with epin.

Healthy dieffenbachia is characterized by intensive growth and bright leaves of appropriate sizes and colors for the variety. If the plant loses its attractiveness and starts to hurt, this is most often associated with care errors, violations of the temperature or water regime. Let us consider in more detail why dieffenbachia is sick and what measures must be taken to prevent damage to the flower by pests and diseases.

Dieffenbachia pests

Despite the fact that the plants are poisonous, they are quite often affected by pests.

The most common:

Spider mite, a sign of damage to which is the presence of cobwebs in the internodes of trunks, sluggish and falling leaves.

Thrips, small (1-2 mm) bugs that suck the juices from the plant, which leads to stunting, curling and drying of the leaves.

Aphids, numerous colonies of which not only weaken plants by sucking out intercellular fluid, but are also carriers of various diseases.

The appearance of spider mites, thrips and aphids on dieffenbachia is particularly facilitated by dry indoor air (relative humidity below 60%).

Scale insects and false scale insects that suck juice from leaves and stems, leaving characteristic secretions, brown plaques that are difficult to remove. The leaves become discolored, dry and fall off.

Mealybugs, insects 3-6 mm in size, affecting leaves, stems and flowers, which are covered with a white mealy coating. The leaves are deformed and dry out, which can lead to the death of the entire plant.

Measures to combat all of the listed dieffenbachia pests are similar, they consist in their mechanical removal with a sponge and a soapy solution, followed by rinsing under running warm water, and treating, if necessary, with insecticidal preparations, actellik or karbofos, at a concentration of 15 drops per liter of water.

Dieffenbachia diseases

Most Dieffenbachia diseases belong to the fungal group, of which the most common are:

leaf spot, causing the appearance along the edge of the leaves, primarily the lower, small brown spots with an orange border, gradually capturing the surface of the entire leaf plate. The disease is transmitted with plant debris and water.

Anthracnose, in which sufficiently large spots appear on the edges of the leaf plates, gradually spreading to the entire surface and causing drying and death of the leaf. It is also transmitted through infected parts of plants.

Both diseases provoke high temperature and humidity, waterlogged soil, as control measures it is recommended to optimize the temperature regime and watering, as well as treat the affected specimens with a systemic fungicide, for example, foundationol or Vitaros.

Fusarium, affects the root neck and the root of the flower, where dark depressed elongated spots are formed. Infected Dieffenbachia turns yellow and withers. On the damaged areas, you can see the light pink mycelium of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil for a long time, spreads when diseased and healthy plant roots are touched. The disease is promoted by overdrying and lack of potassium.

For the prevention of fusarium, it is recommended to use high-quality soil, healthy planting material, treated for disinfection with a biological fungicide (for example, hyocladin). When signs of the disease appear, spraying with a systemic fungicide is carried out.

root rot, which manifests itself in the form of dark depressed areas on the neck and roots, gradually capturing the entire tissue and causing decay, and later lodging and death of the plant. The affected areas are covered with light gray mycelium. The disease is transmitted through the soil, it is promoted by an excess of fertilizers and moisture in the soil, lack of ventilation, and high temperatures. In the presence of signs of damage, watering is limited, the substrate is replaced and treated with a systemic fungicide.

Of the bacterial diseases, we note the Dieffenbachia bacteriosis, in which watery areas with sharply defined boundaries appear on the trunks and leaves. In the future, they become brown or brown. The disease spreads through infected plant residues during mechanical damage, for example, when cuttings. Flowers that are kept at elevated temperature and humidity, with an increased amount of fertilizers in the soil, are more affected. Diseased specimens are destroyed.

Viral diseases include:

Bronzing dieffenbachia, which manifests itself in the appearance of yellow circles, rings and arcs on the surfaces, the affected leaves wither, while remaining hanging on the trunks, often on one infected side.

Viral mosaic, which is characterized by mosaic leaf spot.

Dieffenbachia affected by these diseases does not grow, stops developing, cannot be treated, and must be destroyed to prevent the spread of the virus. The pathogen is transmitted by insects, thrips (bronze) or aphids (mosaic). A preventive measure is insecticide treatment.

Other Problems When Growing Dieffenbachia

In addition to the pests and diseases listed above, dieffenbachia can suffer from improper care and inappropriate conditions. Consider some of the questions that often arise among amateur flower growers.

Why does Dieffenbachia turn yellow? Most often, the cause of this behavior is low air temperature in winter or drafts, as well as a lack of nutrients and watering with hard water. Yellowing of the lower leaves with intensive growth of the top usually signals that the flower needs to be transplanted into a larger pot. Dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow and are affected by root rot.

Why do dieffenbachia leaves curl? This usually occurs when damaged by pests, also when watering with cold water, drafts and low temperatures.

Why does the stem become soft and rot? The reason is waterlogging combined with low air temperature. If the decay is small, you can try to remove it by filling the cut with activated or charcoal, if it is large, cut off the flower, root the top.

Why does Dieffenbachia dry? If the old leaves dry, then this is a natural process; when the decorative effect is lost and the stem is exposed, Dieffenbachia is rejuvenated by cutting and rooting the top. If young leaves dry, the cause may be dry soil, cold air, drafts.

Why do leaf edges turn brown? Most likely, this is caused by the drying of the soil or low temperatures in winter.

Why are the leaves discoloring? The reason is too bright lighting or direct sunlight on the plant.

Why is Dieffenbachia crying? This comes from excessive watering, the flower protects itself from excess moisture in the soil. The same behavior is characteristic of dieffenbachia before rain. As a rainforest dweller, the plant prepares itself for excess water and opens channels to get rid of it.