DIY voltage stabilizer circuits. Voltage stabilizer - how to do it yourself

Mains voltage stabilization problems

The quality of electricity supply in our worn-out and overloaded networks leaves much to be desired. The voltage can vary widely, which is not useful for household appliances. Some of them simply cannot work in such conditions, others fail faster. To solve the problem, AC voltage stabilizers are usually used.

The most popular at present are stabilizers, the operation of which is based on analyzing the input voltage and switching the transformer windings so that the output voltage is maintained within acceptable limits. If the mains voltage changes rarely, then this approach is ideal. Indeed, the system has adapted to a certain input voltage and works quietly. If the voltage changes, the stabilizer switches and continues to work. But in our networks the voltage often fluctuates. In this case, stabilizers made using this technology begin to constantly switch. Each switching is stressful for the stabilizer itself, for your devices connected to it (when switching, a sharp voltage drop occurs and a short complete interruption of the current) and for yourself (switching is usually accompanied by blinking of the light).

Making homemade voltage stabilizers is a fairly common practice. However, for the most part, stabilizing electronic circuits are created that are designed for relatively low output voltages (5-36 volts) and relatively low powers. The devices are used as part of household equipment, nothing more.

We will tell you how to make a powerful voltage stabilizer with your own hands. The article we have proposed describes the process of manufacturing a device for working with a network voltage of 220 volts. Taking into account our advice, you can handle the assembly yourself without any problems.

The desire to provide stabilized voltage to the household network is an obvious phenomenon. This approach ensures the safety of the equipment in use, often expensive and constantly needed on the farm. And in general, the stabilization factor is the key to increased safety in the operation of electrical networks.

For domestic purposes, they most often purchase, the automation of which requires connection to the power supply, pumping equipment, split systems and similar consumers.

Industrial design of a mains voltage stabilizer, which is easy to purchase on the market. The range of such equipment is huge, but there is always the opportunity to make your own design

This problem can be solved in different ways, the simplest of which is to buy a powerful voltage stabilizer manufactured industrially.

There are plenty of offers on the commercial market. However, purchasing options are often limited by the cost of devices or other factors. Accordingly, an alternative to purchasing is to assemble a voltage stabilizer yourself from available electronic components.

Provided you have the appropriate skills and knowledge of electrical installation, the theory of electrical engineering (electronics), wiring circuits and soldering elements, a homemade voltage stabilizer can be implemented and successfully used in practice. There are such examples.

Stabilization equipment made with your own hands from available and inexpensive radio components may look something like this. The chassis and housing can be selected from old industrial equipment (for example, from an oscilloscope)

Circuit solutions for stabilizing the 220V power grid

When considering possible circuit solutions for voltage stabilization, taking into account relatively high power (at least 1-2 kW), one should keep in mind the variety of technologies.

There are several circuit solutions that determine the technological capabilities of devices:

• ferroresonant;
• servo-driven;
• electronic;
• inverter

Which option to choose depends on your preferences, available materials for assembly and skills in working with electrical equipment.

Option #1 – ferroresonant circuit

For self-production, the simplest circuit option seems to be the first item on the list - a ferroresonant circuit. It works using the magnetic resonance effect.

Block diagram of a simple stabilizer made on the basis of chokes: 1 – first throttle element; 2 – second throttle element; 3 – capacitor; 4 – input voltage side; 5 – output voltage side

The design of a sufficiently powerful ferroresonant stabilizer can be assembled using only three elements:

1. Throttle 1.
2. Throttle 2.
3. Capacitor.

However, the simplicity in this option is accompanied by a lot of inconveniences. The design of a powerful stabilizer, assembled using a ferroresonant circuit, turns out to be massive, bulky, and heavy.

Option #2 – autotransformer or servo drive

In fact, we are talking about a circuit that uses the principle of an autotransformer. Voltage transformation is automatically carried out by controlling a rheostat, the slider of which moves the servo drive.

In turn, the servo drive is controlled by a signal received, for example, from a voltage level sensor.

A schematic diagram of a servo-drive device, the assembly of which will allow you to create a powerful voltage stabilizer for your home or country house. However, this option is considered technologically outdated

A relay-type device operates in approximately the same way, with the only difference being that the transformation ratio changes, if necessary, by connecting or disconnecting the corresponding windings using a relay.

Circuits of this kind look technically more complex, but at the same time they do not provide sufficient linearity of voltage changes. It is permissible to assemble a relay or servo-drive device manually. However, it is wiser to choose the electronic option. The costs of effort and money are almost the same.

Option #3 – electronic circuit

Assembling a powerful stabilizer using an electronic control circuit with an extensive range of radio components on sale becomes quite possible. As a rule, such circuits are assembled on electronic components - triacs (thyristors, transistors).

A number of voltage stabilizer circuits have also been developed, where power field-effect transistors are used as switches.

Block diagram of the electronic stabilization module: 1 – input terminals of the device; 2 – triac control unit for transformer windings; 3 – microprocessor unit; 4 – output terminals for load connection

It is quite difficult to manufacture a powerful device completely under electronic control with the hands of a non-specialist; it is better. In this matter, you cannot do without experience and knowledge in the field of electrical engineering.

It is advisable to consider this option for independent production if there is a strong desire to build a stabilizer, plus the accumulated experience of an electronics engineer. Further in the article we will look at the design of an electronic design suitable for making it yourself.

Detailed Assembly Instructions

The circuit being considered for self-production is rather a hybrid option, since it involves the use of a power transformer in conjunction with electronics. The transformer in this case is used from among those that were installed in televisions of older models.

This is roughly the kind of power transformer you will need to make a homemade stabilizer design. However, the selection of other options or do-it-yourself winding cannot be ruled out.

True, TV receivers, as a rule, installed TS-180 transformers, while the stabilizer requires at least a TS-320 to provide an output load of up to 2 kW.

Step #1 - making the stabilizer body

To make the device body, any suitable box based on an insulating material - plastic, textolite, etc. is suitable. The main criterion is sufficient space for placing a power transformer, electronic board and other components.

It is also possible to make the body from fiberglass sheets by fastening individual sheets using corners or in another way.

It is permissible to select a housing from any electronics that is suitable for placing all the working components of a homemade stabilizer circuit. You can also assemble the case yourself, for example, from fiberglass sheets

The stabilizer box must be equipped with grooves for installing a switch, input and output interfaces, as well as other accessories provided by the circuit as control or switching elements.

Under the manufactured case, you need a base plate on which the electronic board will “lie” and the transformer will be fixed. The plate can be made of aluminum, but insulators should be provided for mounting the electronic board.

Step #2 - making a printed circuit board

Here you will need to initially design a layout for the placement and connection of all electronic parts according to the circuit diagram, except for the transformer. Then a sheet of foil PCB is marked along the layout and the created trace is drawn (printed) on the side of the foil.

You can make a printed circuit board for a stabilizer using quite affordable methods at home. To do this, you need to prepare a stencil and a set of tools for etching on foil PCB

The printed copy of the wiring obtained in this way is cleaned, tinned and all the radio components of the circuit are installed, followed by soldering. This is how the electronic board of a powerful voltage stabilizer is manufactured.

In principle, you can use third-party PCB etching services. This service is quite affordable, and the quality of the “signet” is significantly higher than in the home version.

Step #3 - assembling the voltage stabilizer

A board equipped with radio components is prepared for external wiring. In particular, external communication lines (conductors) with other elements - a transformer, switch, interfaces, etc. are output from the board.

A transformer is installed on the base plate of the housing, the electronic circuit board is connected to the transformer, and the board is secured to the insulators.

An example of a homemade relay-type voltage stabilizer, made at home, placed in a housing from a deteriorating industrial measuring device

All that remains is to connect the external elements mounted on the case to the circuit, install the key transistor on the radiator, after which the assembled electronic structure is covered with the case. The voltage stabilizer is ready. You can start setting up with further testing.

Operating principle and homemade test

The regulating element of the electronic stabilization circuit is a powerful field-effect transistor of the IRF840 type. The processing voltage (220-250V) passes through the primary winding of the power transformer, is rectified by the diode bridge VD1 and goes to the drain of the IRF840 transistor. The source of the same component is connected to the negative potential of the diode bridge.

Schematic diagram of a high-power stabilizing unit (up to 2 kW), on the basis of which several devices have been assembled and are successfully used. The circuit showed the optimal level of stabilization at the specified load, but not higher

The part of the circuit, which includes one of the two secondary windings of the transformer, is formed by a diode rectifier (VD2), a potentiometer (R5) and other elements of the electronic regulator. This part of the circuit generates a control signal that is sent to the gate of the field-effect transistor IRF840.

In the event of an increase in the supply voltage, the control signal lowers the gate voltage of the field-effect transistor, which leads to the closing of the switch. Accordingly, at the load connection contacts (XT3, XT4), a possible increase in voltage is limited. The circuit works in reverse in case of a drop in mains voltage.

Setting up the device is not particularly difficult. Here you will need a regular incandescent lamp (200-250 W), which should be connected to the device output terminals (X3, X4). Next, by rotating the potentiometer (R5), the voltage at the marked terminals is brought to a level of 220-225 volts.

Turn off the stabilizer, turn off the incandescent lamp and turn on the device with a full load (not higher than 2 kW).

After 15-20 minutes of operation, the device is turned off again and the temperature of the radiator of the key transistor (IRF840) is monitored. If the heating of the radiator is significant (more than 75º), you should choose a more powerful heat sink.

If the process of manufacturing a stabilizer seems too complicated and irrational from a practical point of view, you can find and purchase a factory-made device without any problems. The rules and criteria are given in our recommended article.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video below examines one of the possible designs for a homemade stabilizer.

In principle, you can take note of this version of a homemade stabilization device:

It is possible to assemble a block that stabilizes the mains voltage with your own hands. This is confirmed by numerous examples where radio amateurs with little experience quite successfully develop (or use an existing one), prepare and assemble an electronics circuit.

There are usually no difficulties in purchasing parts for making a homemade stabilizer. Production costs are low and naturally pay for themselves when the stabilizer is put into operation.

Please leave comments, ask questions, post photos related to the topic of the article in the block below. Tell us how you assembled a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. Share useful information that may be useful to novice electrical engineers visiting the site.

Often, for safe use of, for example, a TV, usually in rural areas, you need a single-phase voltage stabilizer 220V, which, when the voltage in the electrical network is greatly reduced, produces a rated output voltage of 220 volts at its output.

In addition, when operating most types of consumer electronic equipment, it is desirable to use a voltage stabilizer that does not create changes in the output voltage sine wave. Schemes of similar stabilizers for 220 volts are given in many magazines on radio electronics.

In this article we give an example of one of the options for such a device. The stabilizer circuit, depending on the actual voltage in the network, has 4 ranges of automatic setting of the output voltage. This contributed to a significant expansion of the stabilization limits of 160...250 volts. And with all this, the output voltage is ensured within normal limits (220V +/- 5%).

Description of the operation of a single-phase voltage stabilizer 220 volts

The electrical circuit of the device includes 3 threshold blocks, made according to the principle, consisting of a zener diode and resistors (R2-VD1-R1, VD5-R3-R6, R5-VD6-R6). Also in the circuit there are 2 transistor switches VT1 and VT2, which control electromagnetic relays K1 and K2.

Diodes VD2 and VD3 and filter capacitor C2 form a constant voltage source for the entire circuit. Capacities C1 and C3 are designed to absorb minor voltage surges in the network. Capacitor C4 and resistance R4 are “spark arresting” elements. To prevent self-induction voltage surges, two diodes VD4 and VD7 were added to the circuit in the relay windings when they are turned off.

With perfect operation of the transformer and threshold blocks, each of the 4 regulation ranges would create a voltage range from 198 to 231 volts, and the probable mains voltage could be in the region of 140...260 volts.

However, in reality, it is necessary to take into account the spread of parameters of radio components and the instability of the transformer transformation ratio under different loads. In this regard, for all 3 threshold blocks the output voltage range is reduced in relation to the output voltage: 215 ± 10 volts. Accordingly, the oscillation interval at the input has narrowed to 160...250 volts.

Stages of operation of the stabilizer:

1. When the mains voltage is less than 185 volts, the voltage at the rectifier output is low enough for one of the threshold blocks to operate. At this moment, the contact groups of both relays are located as indicated on the circuit diagram. The voltage at the load is equal to the mains voltage plus the boost voltage removed from windings II and III of transformer T1.

2. If the network voltage is in the range of 185...205 volts, then the zener diode VD5 is in the open state. The current flows through relay K1, zener diode VD5 and resistances R3 and R6. This current is not enough for relay K1 to operate. Due to the voltage drop across R6, transistor VT2 opens. This transistor, in turn, turns on relay K2 and contact group K2.1 switches winding II (voltage booster)

3. If the network voltage is in the range of 205...225 volts, then the zener diode VD1 is already in the open state. This leads to the opening of transistor VT1, which is why the second threshold block and, accordingly, transistor VT2 are turned off. Relay K2 is turned off. At the same time, relay K1 and contact group K1.1 are turned on. moves to another position, in which windings II and III are not involved and therefore the output voltage will be the same as at the input.

4. If the network voltage is in the range of 225...245 volts, the zener diode VD6 opens. This contributes to the activation of the third threshold block, which leads to the opening of both transistor switches. Both relays are switched on. Now winding III of transformer T1 is already connected to the load, but in antiphase with the mains voltage (“negative” voltage boost). In this case, the output will also have a voltage in the region of 205...225 volts.

When setting the control range, you need to carefully select zener diodes, since, as is known, they can differ significantly in the stabilization voltage spread.

Instead of KS218Zh (VD5), it is possible to use KS220Zh zener diodes. This zener diode must certainly have two anodes, since in the mains voltage range of 225...245 volts, when the zener diode VD6 opens, both transistors open, the circuit R3 - VD5 bypasses the resistance R6 of the threshold block R5-VD6-R6. To eliminate the shunting effect, the VD5 zener diode must have two anodes.

Zener diode VD5 for a voltage of no more than 20V. Zener diode VD1 - KS220Zh (22 V); it is possible to assemble a circuit of two zener diodes - D811 and D810. Zener diode KS222Zh (VD6) for 24 volts. It can be replaced with a circuit of zener diodes D813 and D810. Transistors from the series. Relays K1 and K2 - REN34, passport HP4.500.000-01.

The transformer is assembled on an OL50/80-25 magnetic core made of E360 (or E350) steel. The tape is 0.08 mm thick. Winding I - 2400 turns wound with PETV-2 0.355 wire (for rated voltage 220V). Windings II and III are equal, each containing 300 turns of PETV-2 0.9 wire (13.9 V).

It is necessary to adjust the stabilizer with a connected load in order to take into account the load on transformer T1.

Household appliances are susceptible to voltage surges: they wear out faster and fail. And in the network, the voltage often jumps, falls, or even breaks off: this is due to the distance from the source and the imperfection of power lines.

To power devices with current with stable characteristics, voltage stabilizers are used in apartments. Regardless of the parameters of the current introduced into the device at its output, it will have almost unchanged parameters.

A current equalizing device can be purchased, choosing from a wide range (differences in power, principle of operation, control and output voltage parameter). But our article is devoted to how to make a voltage stabilizer with your own hands. Is homemade work justified in this case?

A homemade stabilizer has three advantages:

1. Cheapness. All parts are purchased separately, and this is cost-effective compared to the same parts, but already assembled into a single device - a current equalizer;
2. Possibility of DIY repair. If one of the elements of the purchased stabilizer fails, you are unlikely to be able to replace it, even if you understand electrical engineering. You simply won’t find anything to replace a worn-out part with. With a homemade device, everything is simpler: you initially bought all the elements in the store. All that remains is to go there again and buy what is broken;
3. Easy repair. If you have assembled a voltage converter yourself, then you know it 100%. And understanding the device and operation will help you quickly identify the cause of stabilizer failure. Once you figure it out, you can easily repair your homemade unit.

The self-produced stabilizer has three serious disadvantages:

1. Low reliability. At specialized enterprises, devices are more reliable, since their development is based on the readings of high-precision instrumentation, which cannot be found in everyday life;
2. Wide output voltage range. If industrial stabilizers can produce a relatively constant voltage (for example, 215-220V), then home-made analogues can have a range 2-5 times larger, which can be critical for equipment that is hypersensitive to changes in current;
3. Complex setup. If you buy a stabilizer, then the setup stage is bypassed; all you have to do is connect the device and control its operation. If you are the creator of the current equalizer, then you should configure it too. This is difficult, even if you have made the simplest voltage stabilizer yourself.

Homemade current equalizer: characteristics

The stabilizer is characterized by two parameters:

• Permissible range of input voltage (Uin);
• Permissible range of output voltage (Uout).

This article discusses the triac current converter because it is highly efficient. For it, Uin is 130-270V, and Uout is 205-230V. If a large input voltage range is an advantage, then for the output it is a disadvantage.

However, for household appliances this range remains acceptable. This is easy to check, because the permissible voltage fluctuations are surges and dips of no more than 10%. And this is 22.2 Volts up or down. This means that it is permissible to change the voltage from 197.8 to 242.2 Volts. Compared to this range, the current on our triac stabilizer is even smoother.

The device is suitable for connecting to a line with a load of no more than 6 kW. It switches in 0.01 seconds.

Design of a current stabilizing device

A homemade 220V voltage stabilizer, the diagram of which is presented above, includes the following elements:

• power unit. It uses storage devices C2 and C5, voltage transformer T1, as well as a comparator (comparing device) DA1 and LED VD1;
• Knot, delaying the start of the load. To assemble it you will need resistances from R1 to R5, transistors from VT1 to VT3, as well as storage C1;
• Rectifier, measuring the value of voltage surges and dips. Its design includes a VD2 LED with a zener diode of the same name, a C2 drive, a resistor R14 and R13;
• Comparator. It will require resistances from R15 to R39 and comparing devices DA2 with DA3;
• Logic type controller. It requires DD chips from 1 to 5;
• Amplifiers. They will require resistances to limit the current R40-R48, as well as transistors from VT4 to VT12;
• LEDs, playing the role of an indicator - HL from 1 to 9;
• Optocoupler switches(7) with triacs VS from 1 to 7, resistors R from 6 to 12 and optocoupler triacs U from 1 to 7;
• Auto switch with fuse QF1;
• Autotransformer T2.

How will this device work?

After the drive of the node with the pending load (C1) is connected to the network, it is still discharged. Transistor VT1 turns on, and 2 and 3 close. Through the latter, current will subsequently flow to the LEDs and optocoupler triacs. But while the transistor is closed, the diodes do not give a signal, and the triacs are still closed: there is no load. But the current is already flowing through the first resistor to the storage device, which begins to accumulate energy.

The process described above takes 3 seconds, after which the Schmitt trigger, based on transistors VT 1 and 2, is triggered, after which transistor 3 is turned on. Now the load can be considered open.

The output voltage from the third winding of the transformer on the power supply is equalized by the second diode and capacitor. Then the current is directed to R13, passes through R14. At the moment, the voltage is proportional to the voltage in the network. Then the current is supplied to non-inverting comparators. Immediately, the inverting comparing devices receive an already equalized current, which is supplied to resistances from 15 to 23. Then a controller is connected to process the input signals on the comparison devices.

Nuances of stabilization depending on the voltage supplied to the input

If a voltage of up to 130 Volts is introduced, then a low voltage logical level (LU) is indicated at the comparator terminals. The fourth transistor is open, and LED 1 blinks and indicates that there is a strong dip in the line. You must understand that the stabilizer is not able to produce the required voltage. Therefore, all triacs are closed and there is no load.

If the voltage at the input is 130-150 Volts, then a high LU is observed on signals 1 and A, but for other signals it is still low. The fifth transistor turns on, the second diode lights up. Optocoupler triac U1.2 and triac VS2 open. The load will go along the latter and reach the winding terminal of the second autotransformer from above.

With an input voltage of 150-170 Volts, a high LU is observed on signals 1, 2 and V; on the rest it is still low. Then the sixth transistor turns on and the third diode turns on, VS2 turns on and the current is supplied to the second (if counted from above) winding terminal of the second autotransformer.

The operation of the stabilizer is described in the same way at voltage ranges of 170-190V, 190-210V, 210-230V, 230-250V.

PCB manufacturing

For a triac current converter, you need a printed circuit board on which all the elements will be placed. Its size: 11.5 by 9 cm. To make it you will need fiberglass, covered with foil on one side.

The board can be printed on a laser printer, after which an iron will be used. It is convenient to make a board yourself using the Sprint Loyout program. A diagram of the placement of elements on it is shown below.

How to make transformers T1 and T2?

The first transformer T1 with a power of 3 kW is manufactured using a magnetic core with a cross-sectional area (CSA) of 187 sq. mm. And three wires PEV-2:

• For the first wrapping, the PPS is only 0.003 square meters. mm. Number of turns – 8669;
• For the second and third windings, the PPS is only 0.027 sq. mm. The number of turns is 522 on each.

If you don’t want to wind the wire, then you can purchase two TPK-2-2×12V transformers and connect them in series, as in the figure below.

To make an autotransformer with a second power of 6 kW, you will need a toroidal magnetic core and PEV-2 wire, from which a wrap of 455 turns will be made. And here we need bends (7 pieces):

• Wrapping 1-3 bends from wire with PPS 7 sq. mm;
• Wrapping 4-7 bends from wire with PPS 254 sq. mm.

What to buy?

Buy in an electrical and radio equipment store (designation in brackets in the diagram):

• 7 optocoupler triacs MOC3041 or 3061 (U from 1 to 7);
• 7 simple triacs BTA41-800B (VS from 1 to 7);
• 2 LEDs DF005M or KTs407A (VD 1 and 2);
• 3 resistors SP5-2, 5-3 possible (R 13, 14, 25);
• Current equalizing element KR1158EN6A or B (DA1);
• 2 comparing devices LM339N or K1401CA1 (DA 1 and 2);
• Switch with fuse;
• 4 film or ceramic capacitors (C 4, 6, 7, 8);
• 4 oxide capacitors (C 1, 2, 3, 5);
• 7 resistances to limit the current, at their terminals it should be equal to 16 mA (R from 41 to 47);
• 30 resistances (any) with a tolerance of 5%;
• 7 resistances C2-23 with a tolerance of 1% (R from 16 to 22).

Assembly features of the device for voltage equalization

The current stabilizing device microcircuit is installed on a heat sink, for which an aluminum plate is suitable. Its area should not be less than 15 square meters. cm.

A heat sink with a cooling surface is also necessary for triacs. For all 7 elements, one heat sink with an area of ​​at least 16 square meters is sufficient. dm.

In order for the AC voltage converter we manufacture to work, you will need a microcontroller. The KR1554LP5 microcircuit copes with its role perfectly.

You already know that you can find 9 flashing diodes in the circuit. All of them are located on it so that they fit into the holes that are on the front panel of the device. And if the stabilizer body does not allow their location, as in the diagram, then you can modify it so that the LEDs come out on the side that is convenient for you.

Instead of flashing LEDs, non-blinking LEDs can be used. But in this case, you need to take diodes with a bright red glow. Elements of the following brands are suitable: AL307KM and L1543SRC-E.

Now you know how to make a 220 volt voltage stabilizer. And if you have already had to do something similar before, then this work will not be difficult for you. As a result, you can save several thousand rubles on the purchase of an industrial stabilizer.

Modern life involves the constant use of various technologies, and some areas are simply unthinkable without it. Naturally, every person wants the service life of such devices to be maximum; for this purpose, some buy only products from well-known brands for greater reliability. However, high cost does not always guarantee safety under critical operating conditions. These include sudden changes in network voltage. This is especially true for those categories of household appliances that require a permanent network connection, for example, a refrigerator.

In order to protect yourself from the unpleasant consequences of such voltage surges, you can acquire a special technical device that stabilizes the output current. There are two methods used to regulate the voltage:

1. Mechanical. For this method, a linear stabilizer is used, consisting of 2 elbows and a rheostat connecting them. The voltage is supplied to the first elbow and transmitted through a rheostat to the second, which distributes the flow further. This method is effective when there is a small difference between the input and output current; in other cases, the efficiency decreases.

2. Pulse. The design of the stabilizer includes a switch that periodically breaks the circuit for a certain time. This makes it possible to supply current in portions and accumulate it evenly in the capacitor. After the capacitor is fully charged, a leveled flow is supplied to the devices without surges.

The main disadvantage of this method is the inability to set a specific parameter value. Therefore, if you decide to assemble a 220V voltage stabilizer with your own hands, you need to focus on the mechanical method. To create a simple linear single-phase current equalizer you will need:

• Transformer;
• Capacitors;
• Resistors;
• Diode;
• Wires that will connect the microcircuits.

A transformer is a pair of coils that form an inductive electromagnetic coupling, i.e. reaching the primary winding, the current charges it, and the resulting electromagnetic field charges the other coil. This relationship between voltage (U), current (I) and number of turns (N) on both windings is expressed by the formula:

I2/I1 = N2/N1 = U2/U1

The inductive coils themselves can be found in every electrical store. The number of turns on the first should not be less than 2000. By measuring the voltage in the network, you can calculate the required number of turns on the secondary winding. For example, the actual voltage is 198V, then the second coil should have x/2000 = 220/198 = 2223 turns. The generated current is determined using the same principle. According to this scheme, with a sharp increase in power at the input, the voltage will increase proportionally at the output. Therefore, to regulate such situations, a rheostat is needed to change the network resistance. The path followed by the current after the transformer is marked on the stabilizer chip.

From the transformer, the current is output to capacitors of the same capacity to accumulate and equalize the flow; approximately 16 of them will be required. Next, the capacitors must be connected to the rheostat. Its resistance at a voltage of 220 V and a current of 4.75 A (average value of the range 4.5-5 A) after the transformer should be 46 Ohms. To level the voltage as smoothly as possible, you can install several rheostats, distributing the resistance equally to each. After the circuit passes the rheostats, it is again connected into a single stream and follows the diode, which is connected directly to the outlet.

These operations apply to a wire with a phase, the zero is directly passed to the socket. Such stabilizers are best suited to constant voltage conditions and are assembled based on the parameters of a particular device, which significantly increases the efficiency of the device.