Whitefly in a home greenhouse: what to do and how to quickly get rid of the pest. How to get rid of whiteflies in a greenhouse and preserve the harvest: useful tips for gardeners, ways to combat the pest How to treat a greenhouse after whiteflies in the fall

What misfortunes plague vegetable crops! While the crop is growing in a small greenhouse, how much nerves, money and effort have to be spent. Garden pests are especially annoying. For example, a whitefly in a greenhouse is a real disaster, capable of destroying the entire crop in a couple of days.

A sexually mature individual of the greenhouse whitefly

Whiteflies at different stages of development are equally harmful to plants

Attention! Ideal conditions (warm air saturated with moisture), soil with the same characteristics, almost still air inside greenhouses, crowded green spaces, contribute to the reproduction and activity of the pest almost all year round.

Find vulnerabilities

The difficulty of fighting whiteflies in a winter greenhouse is that while the larva is in the egg and then, covered with a dense coating, turns into a cocoon, no poison can take it. This means that it is necessary to poison flying individuals and larvae or take other measures at the stage of their appearance, active feeding, and before turning into a pupa. Then the cycle repeats. Whiteflies that do not leave the plant completely destroy it.

Whitefly provokes many diseases of greenhouse plants

Herbs to help

1. As experienced gardeners advise, after harvesting in a winter greenhouse, you need to cover the entire soil with fern leaves and not remove them until spring planting.
2. Take into account the same pungent garlic smell, which is not tolerated by many pests. Grind the antiseptic cloves (approximately 170-180 g), pour the pulp with water (1 L). Leave the closed vessel for 5 days. Dilute the concentrate at 6 g per 1 liter of water and spray the plants with this mixture after 5-6 days (at the time the larvae form).
3. You can plant in your greenhouse, in some corner, a living whitefly “repellent” - a tansy bush.

Devouring their own kind: the use of entomophages

To prevent the whitefly from destroying the crop, it is necessary to introduce its natural enemies into the greenhouse

Resorting to drastic measures

In an extremely neglected state, greenhouses must be treated with chemical compounds. This, of course, negatively affects the crop yield, but in order to protect future seedlings and destroy the whitefly population, you should resort to the following drugs:

• Actellik. They need to carry out no more than 4 procedures at intervals of 3-4 days.
• Pegasus and Verticillin J. Treatment of crops twice, once a week.
• The drugs Confidor, Mospilan, Fufanon are used once.

Whitefly damage - be careful with chemicals at this stage of plant development

Even when using one of the most effective drugs, you need to injure the plant and soil as little as possible.

Attention! The preparation of drugs is carried out strictly according to the instructions for use. Processing is carried out in personal protective equipment: gloves, respirators, protective overalls and hats. The solution should not come into contact with the eyes.

Chemical treatment should only be used as a last resort. To prevent this from happening, perform daily inspections, eliminating the pest in the early stages of detection.

How to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall to get a good harvest? How to prepare to disinfect and fertilize the soil? Various methods of controlling pests and diseases during the growing season and prevention when preparing a greenhouse for winter.

These and many other questions will be discussed in this article. The recommendations provided will concern both the use of modern methods using fungicides and various folk remedies for pest control.

Types of pests and diseases and their control

To consistently obtain a good harvest, it is necessary to carry out comprehensive measures to prepare and disinfect the land, prevent and destroy mold, and treat the greenhouse in the fall from pests and diseases. The most common pests and diseases that cause maximum harm to plants grown in a greenhouse are:

• Greenhouse whitefly;
• Melon aphid;
• Peach aphid;
• Tobacco thrips;
• Spider mite;
• Late blight (late blight);
• Blackleg;
• Dry spotting;
• White spotting;
• Leaf mold (brown spot);
• Apical rot;
• White rot.

Greenhouse whitefly

Greenhouse whitefly

The whitefly sucks the juice, causing the leaves to turn yellow, and prefers moist, shaded places. For protection, periodic treatment with organophosphorus preparations is carried out: karbofos and actellik (belfoss). The treatment of a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall is carried out with synthetic peretroids - Ambush, Rovikurt, Talkord.

Encarsia formosa Gahon

melon aphid

Melon aphid and the result of its “work”

Peach aphid

Peach aphid is the most dangerous pest of the family

It affects more than 100 plant species, including such common crops as cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, melon, watermelon, beets, cabbage, etc. The following drugs are effective against it: Nurrell, Cymbush, Actellik and Bicyclate. How to treat a greenhouse against melon aphids for the winter? For mild to moderate infestations, standard disinfection methods are sufficient. If significant, it is necessary to increase the amount of sulfur during fumigation from 50-80 g/1m3 to 100-150 g/m3.

Tobacco thrips

Tobacco thrips and the result of damage to cucumber leaves

This insect, despite its name, loves to settle on greenhouse cucumbers, eggplants, peppers and tomatoes. In open ground, it affects more than 150 plant species. Chemical control methods involve treating the greenhouse with preparations similar to those used for aphids and whiteflies. How to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall to prevent thrips? Standard fumigation with sulfur compounds is quite sufficient without exceeding the dose.

Spider mite

Affected tomatoes are the result of spider mites

Spider mites infect many crops, both in open farming and in greenhouses. How to treat a greenhouse against spider mites when they are maximally infested? During the growing season, it is recommended to treat with the following preparations: Plant-Pin, Actellik, Etisso, Fitoverm. The dosage and frequency of treatment are indicated on the product packaging. In the autumn, the amount of active substance should be doubled when fumigated with sulfur and sprayed with bleach or Bordeaux mixture.

Late blight

Lesions from late blight on tomato stems and trunks

Late blight is the most dangerous disease of the nightshade family. And without proper processing, it may well leave summer residents without a harvest of not only tomatoes, but also potatoes. If an affected area is detected, the entire greenhouse must be immediately treated with fungicides:

Preparations for treating plants

There are many “folk” methods used in natural farming and eradicating late blight:

• In the early stages, spraying with saline solution helps. 1 glass of table iodized salt per 10 liters of water. When dry, the mixture forms a film that prevents the penetration of spores;
• Regular treatment, every 2 weeks, by spraying with garlic infusion. 1.5 cups of crushed heads and shoots of garlic per bucket of water with the addition of 10-15 grams. potassium permanganate.
• During the ripening period, when the use of chemicals is impossible, a milk-iodine solution is used for processing. To prepare it, you need to dilute 20 drops of iodine and 1 liter of milk in 10 liters of water.
• As a preventive measure, plants are saturated with copper salts. This happens as follows. Thick copper wire is cut into pieces of 3-5 cm and the insulation is removed with sandpaper and the tomato stems are pierced near the ground.

How to treat a greenhouse against late blight in the fall to prevent its occurrence? Several options are possible:

• Treatment of the greenhouse against late blight in the fall using the sulfur fumigation method, at the rate of 50-80 g/m 3 of building space;
• Use of formaldehyde. It is poured into furrows dug along the entire length of the greenhouse and added dropwise. Leaving the greenhouse sealed for 3-5 days.
• Treating a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall against late blight with an infusion of bleach. Moreover, the liquid is used for irrigation, and the sediment must be used to wipe off all the details of the structure.

Blackleg

Usually appears in the early stages after planting seedlings. The reason is too much watering and dense planting. It is recommended to thin out, remove affected plants and water with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Blackleg lesion

Dry and white spotting

The disease affects both seedlings and adult plants. First, the lower leaves, which shrink and die, then the upper ones, the stem and fruits, which cannot be eaten. Treatment in both cases is the same - treatment with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Apical rot

Occurs in the upper part of the fruit. The spots can be either dry or watery with a rotten smell. The cause of the damage is insufficient watering in combination with excess nitrogen and lack of calcium in the soil.

Blossom rot affecting tomatoes

As a treatment, increase watering to moderate and treat the greenhouse soil with calcium chloride 34-40 grams per 10 liters of water, and during fruit setting with calcined nitrate, 1 tablespoon per bucket of water. You can also use a solution of soda ash.

Preventive measures when preparing a greenhouse for winter

There is a whole range of measures and substances to treat a polycarbonate greenhouse in the fall:

1. Immediately after harvesting, a general cleaning of the entire structure is carried out, including washing the windows, regardless of whether they are glass or polycarbonate, with a solution of potassium permanganate. Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the grooves of the metal window frame. All parts made of wooden beams and elements of a stone (brick) foundation are coated with lime pulp.
2. Removing all plant remains from the greenhouse, as well as the ropes used for tying and boards limiting the beds (if they are used).
3. Disinfection or replacement of soil.
4. Treatment of the entire room with disinfectants by fumigation, spraying or sprinkling with various preparations.

Greenhouse soil treatment

Before cultivating the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, all plant remains must be completely removed from the building and burned. Every year more and more pests and spores of various diseases accumulate in it. If you do not carry out annual disinfection in the fall and replace the soil at least once every 2 years, then the yield will constantly decrease. It is best to prepare the soil for the greenhouse yourself. To do this, you will need to allocate space on the site to install a compost bin or pile (stack). The soil used for laying is disinfected in different ways:

1. The use of formaldehyde is a rather dangerous, but effective option for treating soil in a greenhouse in the fall. For the correct procedure, it is necessary to dig grooves on the surface of the earth. The solution is poured into the groove, which is thrown from above. The greenhouse is sealed with tape and left in this form for 1-3 days. Then the room is ventilated for another 2-3 weeks and dug up.

1. Sulfur fumigation. Using special smoke bombs, which are sold in stores, or sulfur burned on coals, not only the soil in a polycarbonate greenhouse is cultivated in the fall, but also the entire structure is disinfected. In this case, it is necessary to try to seal the structure itself as much as possible. The sulfur smoke remains in the greenhouse for 3-5 hours (up to a day if the area is heavily damaged by late blight or spider mites), after which it is ventilated for 2-3 weeks.
2. Treating the soil in a greenhouse in the fall with bleach. It is necessary to both spray the infusion (400 g per 10 liters of water) of all greenhouse structures and the internal polycarbonate walls, and sprinkle dry lime on the soil. This treatment should never be used in the spring, at the beginning of the season, or before planting any seedlings.

Various storage and soil preparation options

1. Treating a greenhouse in the fall with copper sulfate is one of the most effective ways to combat late blight. The irrigation solution has the following proportions - 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. Watering is carried out at the end of the harvest, in the process of preparing the soil for winter. When performing work, the use of personal protective equipment is mandatory.
2. The most environmentally friendly, but quite effective way to disinfect soil is steaming. Autumn treatment of a polycarbonate greenhouse using the steaming method consists of the following steps:

• The land is treated with boiling water at the rate of 1-3 liters per 1 m 2;
• Immediately after this, it is covered with a film, which can be removed only after 1-2 days. The procedure must be repeated several times.

However, this option also has one significant drawback: there will be no earthworms. You can learn more about how to properly treat a greenhouse in the fall, about soil care and methods for restoring fertility and disinfection in the video:

Insect pests in closed ground are not so rare. But what especially annoys summer residents is one small bug, no more than 2 mm in size, which quickly produces entire colonies on the inner leaves of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants and peppers and quickly devours everything. And getting rid of it is another task. Common situation? So let's figure out how to deal with whiteflies in a greenhouse so as not to damage the crop and get rid of the problem forever. We can immediately console you - there is a way out!

Aphids or whiteflies?

First of all, learn to identify the first signs of a pest in the greenhouse:

• Stickiness is felt in different places of the plants.
• Leaves are deformed, curled and wilted.
• On the inside of the leaves you see larvae with a waxy coating.
• Some leaf blades of vegetable crops are covered with yellow spots, but the boundaries are unclear.

What harm does this insect cause?

Another unpleasant thing that pests carry with them is that they overconsume liquids from plants, and therefore secrete liquid from themselves, which is especially beneficial for the development of all kinds of fungi. And what is especially troublesome is that the insect also lays eggs on the underside of the leaves.

Life cycle of a pest - take it into account

Why, it would seem, does an ordinary summer resident need to know how an insect reproduces and develops? After all, we are not biologists! But it is precisely this knowledge that will help to effectively combat this scourge: the problem is that many are trying to destroy adult individuals, while many larvae have already been left behind. Or vice versa. So, let's take a closer look at it. Whiteflies are very similar in appearance to aphids, but only white. It settles in large groups on leaves or young shoots of plants, and lays eggs there. The larvae emerge quickly and search for food on their own. This is precisely the moment that cannot be missed: as soon as the larvae stop feeding, they can no longer be killed by any insecticides - their bodies are already enveloped in a dense waxy coating. In a word, the cocoon of this scourge is impenetrable, and if an adult emerges from the pupa, the harvest will be lost, because the body of the young whitefly is still covered with this wax. Then the new generation will migrate to neighboring plants and repeat its entire life cycle, and it is not difficult to guess what remains of the last bush.

Overview of whitefly control methods

So, today there are such types of struggle:

Option #1 - mechanical methods

These are the most harmless measures. We simply take and collect insects by hand, knock them down with water from watering hoses and wipe the stems and leaves with soapy water. The latter, by the way, will also remove honeydew. But keep in mind that you cannot catch all the insects, and the knocked down wet moths still crawl to their feeding place. Although the harvest, I must say, will be easier for a while, of course.

Another modern method is yellow or bright blue sticky traps. On them, by the way, you will immediately see how much of this crap is already in the greenhouse. Why this color? This is the most attractive to pests. You can also hang up regular fly tape as a last resort. But it’s better, of course, to make a high-quality trap:

• Step 1. Prepare Vaseline, thick paper, rosin and castor oil. Mix.
• Step 2. Heat rosin in a water bath and add honey, Vaseline and castor oil in equal parts.
• Step 3. Cool the resulting mixture and apply it to a paper base.
• Step 4. We hang the finished tapes throughout the greenhouse.

Ideally, for the base you take thick plywood and paint it blue or yellow. So cover it with sticky adhesive. Are there a lot of whiteflies stuck to you? Wash off with soap and apply the composition again. It's simple!

Option #2 - biological methods

The biological method is also interesting: we will use beneficial insects. For example, lacewings and ladybugs can quickly destroy pests. Another way is to make a special herbal infusion.

Recipe No. 1:

1. Chop the head of garlic and pour half a liter of water.
2. Let it brew for about a week.
3. We dilute the finished product: 5 g per 1 liter of water.
4. We spray all the plants in the greenhouse.

Recipe No. 2:

1. Grind 40 g of dandelion rhizomes and 40 g of leaves of the same plant and add 1 liter of water.
2. Let it brew for several days.
3. We filter and spray all affected plants with the resulting solution.
4. After two weeks we repeat the treatment.

Recipe No. 3:

1. Pour 80 g of crushed yarrow leaves into one liter of water.
2. We insist for two days.
3. We filter and use a sprayer to apply to vegetable crops occupied by pests.

Option #3 - chemical methods

Of course, chemicals are not the best options for a greenhouse. But if the situation is really bad, you will have to use insecticides. Take special remedies for sucking pests: Actellik, Pirmethrin, Malathion, Aktaru, Neudosan or Ciermethrin. To make the preparations stick to the plants better, add a little laundry soap to them, after grating it.

The drug Biotlin is considered especially effective - a systemic poison that kills the insect instantly. Good reviews in terms of combating this scourge also refer to the drug KRA DEO SUPER - this is a special aerosol that needs to be sprayed on everything at night. But keep in mind that insecticides will only be effective when the insects themselves are in the imago or larval stage. If you are late, the chemicals will be useless.

The most extreme case, if nothing helps at all, is to remove all the tops after harvesting, disinfect the soil and set fire to several sulfur bombs overnight. After this, remove all the top layer of soil - this is where the larvae hide. Usually after this the whitefly disappears forever.

How to make an effective trap?

You can make such a cunning trap - it is unexpectedly very effective:

• Step 1. Paint the pieces of plastic orange-yellow.
• Step 2. Next we cover them with entomological glue.
• Step 3. We attach the lighting directly to the plastic, which we hang at the level of the tops of the plants.

• Step 1. We drill holes in the box at the level of the light bulb - and we place it inside the box.
• Step 2. We also paint the light bulb orange-yellow.
• Step 3. Under the light bulb, at the bottom of the box, place a container of water.

The principle of operation of the trap is as follows: whiteflies strive for this light at night, get inside the box, fly, get burned on the light bulb and fall into a container of water. They don't know how to swim.

How to block the pest’s “way back”?

What to do after the pest is destroyed? Did he leave his “spies” behind closed doors? Your fears are not unfounded - and then strictly follow these rules:

• First: this is a deep digging of all the greenhouse soil - in the fall. If insects burrow into the soil, they will end up on the surface, and the cold will then finish them off.
• Second: After harvesting, always remove and burn all plant debris.
• Third: never place a composter directly in the greenhouse - all the pests from the garden can breed from it.

But how to make sure that this misfortune never appears? What preventative measures are there?

• Rule 1. For the winter, try to remove the covering from the greenhouse or at least remove the top.
• Rule 2. If the covering has not been removed, be sure to disinfect the polycarbonate or glass in the spring, and treat the frame with bleach.
• Rule 3. Before planting, water the soil with a solution of iron or copper sulfate.

So, are you ready to fight for your sweat and blood earned harvest? Believe and don’t despair - you will succeed!

By planting plants in closed ground, we create favorable conditions for them to grow and bear fruit: suitable temperature, sufficient humidity, absence of drafts. However, the greenhouse will not protect you from insect pests - we will bring them on shoes, clothes, with new soil or on gardening tools.

Today’s article is about whitefly, which can very quickly ruin all your efforts to grow crops.

Whitefly: what is it, what harm does it cause, methods of destruction

What is a whitefly?

• The larvae, sucking the sap of plants, take away a large amount of nutrients from the latter.
• A sooty fungus soon settles on the secretions of the larvae, which also poses a threat to plants.

In appearance, the whitefly, if examined under a magnifying glass, is a moth with elongated milky-white wings and a light yellow body. Only female insects reach their maximum size - up to 1.5 mm, males are slightly smaller. Insect eggs are placed on the underside of leaves, about 100 eggs per life cycle.

Adult insects

The picture as in the photo suggests that it’s time to think about how to treat the greenhouse against whiteflies

How to determine if there are whiteflies in a greenhouse?

An infected plant is easily identified - when you touch it, a small cloud of small white flies flies off it. This alone should make the gardener think about how to remove whiteflies from the greenhouse. If you look closely at the plant, you will find additional signs of damage:

Leaf affected by insects and sooty fungus

Whitefly in a greenhouse, how to get rid of it using chemicals

There are a number of chemicals used to control whiteflies. Here are the most effective ones:

• Mospilan. Single use, 0.5 g per liter of water.
• Confidor. Single use, 0.5 ml per liter of water.
• Fuvanol. Once, 1.4 ml per liter of water.
• Actellicom. Designed for repeated (3-4 times) treatment, 1 ampoule/liter of water. Spraying is effective in the larval stage of the insect. Suitable for treating greenhouses against whiteflies in autumn.
• Verticillin. Twice, a week apart, 25 mg per liter of water.
• Pegasus. Twice, a week apart, 2 mg per liter of water.
• Sulfur checker. Designed to combat whiteflies in greenhouses in the fall. The gas penetrates the soil, killing insect larvae hiding for the winter.

You can also use ready-made glue traps, sold in garden stores. The disadvantage of traps is that they are aimed only at adult insects. Due to where the whitefly overwinters in the greenhouse, treating the plants alone will not get rid of it. Therefore, autumn soil disinfection is mandatory.

Whitefly in a greenhouse, method of combating adult insects: glue trap

How to get rid of whiteflies in autumn and summer: we can do without chemicals

We are talking about introducing other insects into the greenhouse and planting certain types of plants. Whitefly in a greenhouse, how to get rid of it using folk remedies without using chemicals:

You may not have to decide how to treat the greenhouse against whiteflies in the fall if Martinia fragrant is planted among the vegetables

For Siberian gardeners, not a single summer season is like another, it’s a risky farming zone, nothing can be done. Some things are born well, some things are bad. This season will be remembered for an excellent berry harvest.

But the greenhouses were not lucky this year. Many friends from all over the region complain about the abundance of whiteflies. What can be done in the fall to prevent this attack from happening again?

The whitefly is a very small moth, measuring 1-1.5 mm, but it is very dangerous to plants and is prolific. Moths eat foliage, and their secretions provide a breeding ground for the development of infections.

One female lays up to several hundred eggs on the lower part of the leaf, and after 9 days, larvae emerge from the eggs and stick to the surface of the leaf. In all stages, the whitefly causes serious damage to plants.

To combat this scourge in the fall, you need to thoroughly disinfect the greenhouse. To begin with, they do a general cleaning: they wash all the structures, and especially all the nodes and connections of the greenhouse, with a brush using household chemicals.

Then it is recommended to treat the surfaces with bleach, copper sulfate, and polycarbonate with a solution of potassium permanganate. It is useful to fumigate the greenhouse with a sulfur bomb, but this can be harmful if the structures are made of galvanized metal. In this case, the frame is treated with copper sulfate twice.

Steaming the soil with boiling water and then covering it with film will help. It is recommended to carry out the procedure not once, but 2-3 times. After steaming, the soil is sprinkled with quicklime, and then also spilled with a solution of copper dioxide.

It’s troublesome, but those who are faced with this tenacious pest will spare no effort. There is only one thing that pleases me. In winter, the whitefly can freeze out because it overwinters in the top layer of soil. If there has been an infection, it is useful to remove the top layer of soil and freeze it outside.

But leaving the greenhouse open for the winter so that the pest freezes out, on the contrary, is harmful. Gusts of wind can bring insect larvae into the greenhouse from other areas, and wintering even in an open greenhouse is still warmer than outside.

Where the whitefly comes from is not a mystery of nature. Most often we buy it with seedlings from greenhouses or greenhouses, especially with flower seedlings. The main defense is prevention. At the slightest suspicion that seedlings are infected, it is cheaper to throw them away and not plant them.

There are some folk remedies that are used by those who absolutely do not want to use chemicals. This year I had to try it. Glue fly traps hung around the greenhouse helped a little, but the moths fly up and stick only if you drive them away from their homes with a soft grass broom. They usually sit at the bottom of plants.

The traps caught several dozen moths, but they did not produce offspring, and the plants rested for some time. Homemade sticky traps painted bright orange are also used.

A very simple way to reduce the number of moths is to wash off the pests with a strong stream of water. It’s not the best thing to douse tomatoes with water, but this way we at least managed to keep the issue under control and get a harvest.

It is recommended to sow dill and other aromatic herbs in a greenhouse. The smell of spices attracts other insects that feed on whitefly larvae. But in this case, caring for the main crops becomes more complicated. In addition, while the dill sprouts and attracts the necessary insects, the harvest can be completely lost.

Nevertheless, the most effective means for combating this malicious pest are considered to be biological and chemical preparations. At the same time, moths adapt very quickly to any preparation, and for the second and third treatment they will have to use a different substance, this is very important.

The drug "Actellik" helps well; it destroys the pest in all stages of development; 4 treatments can be carried out per season. But there is one drawback: the waiting period is 20 days, that is, you can’t eat vegetables for that many days. Not suitable for cucumbers at all.

The same thing is with the drug “Inta-vir”, the waiting period is 20 days, several treatments will be required. Fufanol has the same waiting period, but only one treatment per season is required.

“Confidor” is considered practical. The death of moths and larvae begins 1-1.5 hours after treatment, and larvae - after 3-4 hours, and only one treatment is needed. The waiting period is only 2-3 days.

Pay attention to the drug "Mospilan". In summer, the waiting period is 7 days, processing is once per season. Toxic to bees, it is advisable to keep the greenhouse closed after treatment. Does not cause addiction to the pest.

In addition to these drugs, you can use “Verticillin”, “Iskra”, and some other drugs, strictly according to the instructions, for different pests - different proportions.

It would seem, why do the treatment in the fall, since the greenhouses are almost empty? Only the whitefly is an omnivorous pest, now it feeds on what is left, even woodlice, and then it will go to winter, and next year the infection may repeat.

This is the case when it is better to play it safe and not encounter this pest again.