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Once upon a time, the shores of lakes and ponds were completely strewn with wooden boats of various sizes and designs. Of course, there were rubber ones, but there were few of them and they served as patched and patched for many years. It was even rarer to find duralumin products produced at that time in small batches.
The punts of our rivers
Those times have sunk into oblivion, and with them the good old traditions of building simple boats by the hunters and fishermen themselves. Now inflatable boats have firmly taken their place. They turned out to be more mobile, light and comfortable.
True, in some places, remote from large settlements, you can still see hand-made ones. That's what I've been using for many years.
The boat, equipped with one loose oar, with a sharp wedge-shaped bow, strong wooden sides, is excellent for moving along narrow rivers and dense reeds, which allows it to be successfully used for fishing and hunting.
Such boats were generally built according to a single principle, but in different regions they had a number of features. For example, some had a wooden bottom, others had a rubber bottom, and others had a tin bottom.
If for some reason you need just one, then you can make it yourself at home. There is nothing complicated in its manufacture, however, the first time it may turn out not quite what you would like.
Material preparation
So, let's begin. Before construction begins, you need to take care of its most important parts - the sides. For this, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on a flat surface with a slight oppression from above in order to avoid their curvature.
We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure the desired length (here and further, the specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, because all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow.
Next, they need to be planed, and the chamfered ends must be chamfered so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
These areas, and in the future all the others that will not be available for painting after the assembly of the structure, are impregnated with a protective layer of antiseptic.
After that, we proceed to the manufacture of the base of the nose - a triangular bar. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The bar is also planed and covered with a protective layer.
Do not forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all the excess will be cut off.
The initial stage of the assembly
Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to the assembly. We start from the bow, we firmly connect both sides and the triangular bar with self-tapping screws or nails.
We cut the protruding parts from above and below flush with the sides.
It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The angle of the spacer should also not be made too large.
Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides, here you need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much the chamfer needs to be chamfered so that the sides adjoin it without gaps.
So, gradually removing, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.
Having achieved it, we nail the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you wish. I made it as a triangle.
Then we proceed to the installation of permanent struts and seats. Their number and location is up to you. When fixing them (yes, in general, and in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid cracks.
We complete a very important initial stage by chamfering the lower part of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating on them.
See the continuation of construction in the next part -.
Buying a boat is a costly business. That is why many are wondering how to make their own small and reliable vessel. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite laborious and requires a lot of attention to detail.
The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:
- Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
- Plastic.
- Steel.
- Wood.
- Plywood.
Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are immediately evident. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.
Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the next stages of planning and preparation.
Manufacturing features
There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:
- Woodwork. The first and main feature is the ability to work with wooden structures and wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads this or that material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on working with wood. Finding them is very easy, they are freely available on the Internet.
- The choice of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaking. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
- Place of assembly. For manufacturing, you will definitely need a lot of space, as well as time. For professionals, it can take from 4 to 10 days to manufacture and assemble, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. That is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
- Instruments. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will discuss later). In addition, it is desirable to have an additional pair of hands at some stages of the assembly.
These are the main features that you need to know, but as you work, it is likely that you will encounter others.
Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production
Deciding on sizes
One of the most important steps in the planning stage. The size depends on the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to observe the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.
You can change them at your discretion, but within reason:
- The length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people - about 3 meters. Three people - 3.5 - 4 meters. A boat with a length of 3 - 4 meters can easily withstand up to 5-6 people, the question here is more in comfort.
- Width. Also one of the main criteria. The average width is 1 - 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable wonderfully. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. You need to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone depending on the human body, the cargo to be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
- Board height. The average and recommended board height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it both higher and lower, depending on your desire.
It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.
Turning to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. At the moment, the drawing can be done without having such skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.
In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you must immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that in the future you do not have to adjust them.
Reference planes required to build a theoretical drawing of the boat hull
Necessary materials and tools
Having dealt with all theoretical issues, we turn to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with particular care.
Consider the list of tools and tools that will be needed during assembly:
This is the main list of what will come in handy during assembly. In addition, other tools may come in handy in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.
Selection of boards for sheathing the bottom of a punt boat
Manufacturing process
We turn to the most interesting, the manufacturing process. We will present it in the form of a step-by-step instruction.
There is no place for haste and shortcomings, so we do everything very carefully and clearly:
Boat testing
After the creation and assembly of the vessel, we proceed to its testing.
You can test the boat in different ways, but it is best in how many stages:
- The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, turn the boat over and install it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next, pour a large amount of water on it. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After that, the boat can be turned over and checked if water got inside.
- Now, knowing that the schooner does not let water through, you can go to the exit to the big water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim out to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat starts to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it aground.
Let's look at a few tips that may come in handy for a beginner in the difficult business of designing and building:
- When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of the boat, it is worth spending extra time, but tightly walking through all the joints with glue or resin. In the future, such errors will be very difficult to correct.
- Do it with a margin. Extra parts of everything can be removed, for example, sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This applies to all other details as well.
- Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them with a drill. This will prevent cracking.
- Don't skimp on materials. The better the wood, the longer and better it will last in the future.
When making a plywood boat, you will face two main problems. First, you need to correctly measure and manufacture the parts. Secondly, it is important to correctly assemble the frame of the boat. Further in the article, I will describe in detail how to calculate the dimensions for all the components, and in the course of building the frame I will focus on especially important points.
Dimensions and drawings
The first thing to do is determine the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, the height of the boat.
We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.
Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the frame base.
L=3000-(h*tg(a-90)+h*tg(b-90))=2623, where h is the height of the boat
Now find the length of the bow and transom. Since they are tilted, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.
Transom L= √(〖(h*tg(a-90))〗^2+h^2)=508
Nose L= √(〖(h*tg(b-90))〗^2+h^2)=577
You need to decide on the width of the bottom. Take half the width of the boat - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The maximum width of the boat reaches 1/3 of the transom.
In our case, the maximum width will be at a distance of 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend would be at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.
The length of the plywood for the side will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (upper and lower, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.
Other sizes depend on the situation.
boat frame
The basis will be a bar 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. We fasten a transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance to the bow we fasten the deformed beams (the maximum bulge of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).
We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). Cutout dimensions 50*25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cuts made. We fasten them to the base and side beams. The lower part of the frame is ready.
We fasten the nose and transom. Between the bow and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now on the top. The distance between the board beams in height is 500 mm, in width 350 mm. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).
We make a frame for the sides
Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the top to the edge of the bottom beam. It is important!
For this we use a bar 25 * 25 mm.
Frame sheathing
We fasten plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First we fix the sides. Plywood should fit snugly against the frame.
Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat
We glue all joints of plywood with waterproof glue. Apply glue to all parts of the boat that you think are vulnerable.
Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We sheathe the boat from the inside (optional). You can make a floor and not sheathe the sides, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Don't board the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.
All the remaining details are also to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.
DOCOO - Special for
How to make a do-it-yourself wooden punt boat for small trips on ponds. Let's focus on a small model that can be transported on the trunk of a car or in a car trailer.
Characteristics of the swimming facility:
- length, m, 2.918;
- width, m, 1.052;
- height, m, 0.400;
- material, wood and plywood;
- stroke, oar and motor (low power, no more than two horsepower, gasoline or electric).
Front view
Back view
Side view
View from above
Bottom view
Detail of a wooden punt boat:
- Central bar
- Frames
- nose element
- Stern
- seats
- Deck
For the manufacture of the boat we will use plywood brands: FBS; BS; FB, in the composition of which bakelite glue is used. These grades of material have very high moisture resistance and strength. Plywood is produced in the following sizes AxBxC.
Where:
BUT– thickness – 5; 7; ten; 12; fourteen; sixteen; 18(mm);
AT- width - 1508 (mm);
With- length - 5300; 5600 (mm);
The density of the material is 1200 (kg/m³).
The central bar, frames, bow element, stern, seats - we make from plywood with a thickness of eighteen millimeters.
Boards - we make of plywood with a thickness of ten millimeters.
Bottom, deck - made of plywood with a thickness of five millimeters.
Assembly order
We fix six frames on the slipway table. From above we insert the central bar with grooves on the frames. We fix the nose element. We fix the feed.
We install spacers between the upper edges on each frame. Spacers are necessary to give strength to the structure during the assembly of the sides. We fasten the left and right sides to the frames. In order for the plywood blank to bend easily, two conditions must be met: moisture and heat, therefore it must be heated with steam or hot water.
We fix the bottom to the sides with self-tapping screws with a press washer.
We fix the seats and remove the spacers. We fasten the seats to the bars screwed to the sides.
Fixing the deck. The deck is fixed along the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws with a press washer.
ADVIСE:
1. We fasten the parts of the boat together with universal self-tapping screws of different lengths.
2. To ensure the watertightness of the boat, the joints of the structure must be lubricated with glue (VIAM-B\Z).
3. Outside, we recommend taping the seams with waterproof material.
4. We fasten the bottom with screws at an interval of forty centimeters.
5. At the bottom of the boat, you can put wooden gratings that will rest on the frames.
6. Before painting, the boat must be covered with primer. The easiest way is to cover with drying oil heated to a boil. The primer should be applied both outside and inside.
7. After the drying oil has dried, we apply bright paints of various colors and shades. We dilute the paint to a liquid state in order to apply it to the surface of the boat two, three times.
8. Coating with nitro paints, plywood is not recommended. High-quality surface coating is a guarantee of the durability of your product.
On the proposed model, made by hand, you can safely accommodate two fishermen.
As you can see, the proposed model is easy to manufacture, there are only thirteen assembly units and three types of thicknesses of the material used.
Projects for self-construction.
Sailing yachts
| "Natalie" |
 Cruising dinghy 5.9m, for recreation and tourism.
|
| "Karas 500" |  Small cruising dinghy 5m long
|
| "Fox 500" |  Light yacht 5m long with cabin-shelter. |
| "Natalie600" |  Treller boat made of plywood with a radius chine, 6m long. |
| "Natalie 695" |  Tourist dinghy 6.95m for recreation and tourism.
|
| "Altruist" |  Small family 4.88m yacht |
| "Natalie 800M" |  Trailer cruising dinghy 8 m long, latrine, galley 4-5 berths. |
| "Natalie 850" |  Cruiser, dinghy, 8.5m long, with all amenities. |
| "Anastasia 590" |  Cruiser 5.9m with all amenities |
| "Natalie 700" |  Family cruiser 7m long, with all the comforts, a compromise. |
| "Natalie 625" |  Cruising dinghy 6-6.25m long |
| "Natalie 460" |  Small dinghy, 4.6m long
|
| "Natalie 850" |  The yacht is 8.5m long, with a radial chine.
|
Motor boats and plywood boats.
Project cost
Stay tuned for new articles:
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Projects and drawings of oar boats for fishing and hunting. Foldable and small vessels for easy transportation by car or trailer.
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The hull type of the boat determines the type of propeller that is needed to ensure the normal operation of the boat of this plan in the pond.
There are two main types of carcasses: the movement type and the glide type.
Sailing ships are relatively slow. They are supported by the mass of water they lift (i.e. static water pressure). A feature of their design is a slightly oriented or rounded shape of the feed and a sharp or rounded shape of the nose.
They sit deep in the water like ocean ships. During operation, the propellers on these boats are completely submerged in the water and have a significantly smaller pitch.
Plane type aircraft that contain most of the recreational craft operating at low speeds (less than 10 kilometers per hour) as well as moving hull type.
With sufficient power, these vessels are mounted on the surface of the water and operate in the mode of sliding, floating and dynamic pressure (rotational speed) of supported water. Skate types tend to be larger in fleet and more efficient than moving hull boats.
Their design differs from that of the shear, as their wide trance is essentially at an acute angle at the base of the boat. The propellers on such ships are often not completely submerged, and with this extension to the upper speed range, increased buoyancy and stability, as well as large propeller pitch and blade incidence.
The following is a description of typical housing models for operation with external motors and other supply systems.
Stepped bottom example
In general, an example of a stepped design is the keel body version (with a V-bottom).
This hull design causes cavitation on the running surface of the boat due to the numerous side ladders at the junction with the bottom. Cavitation in the area of lower contact with the water surface reduces braking, which leads to an increase in boat speed.
Kiel (V-shaped) bottom
At this time, the most common bottom-type boat design allows a good degree combined with a softer turning ability of the boat, which depends on the angle of the V-shaped bottom (the so-called "dead angle"), the radius or shape of the keel line and the cover of the dog boat.
To increase the upper speed limit with a slight loss of softness, smoothness of the sharp keel at the end of the lower part from bow to stern, a trapezoid shape moves in the reference plane (in cross section) [arrow shown, shaded area that runs in the plane of the bow to the stern of the keel (top view )].
In order to get the desired performance, each boat manufacturer has their own way of deciding on the number of lanes and how exactly they move backwards (before trance).
The more belts, the higher the rise of the boat from the water and the trim along the road, but the progress of the vessel is somewhat more difficult.
Hull of the catamaran
This form is most popular among fans of competitive competitions.
Its bottom differs from the bottom of the old catamarans by rather sharp internal angles (between the bottom and the walls of the tunnel). This gives you extremely sharp turns/turns at high speeds with a very smooth and soft ride. However, at low speeds some ships with this body structure experience handling problems.
Double catamaran hull
It is a combination of a small keel bottom with two identical tunnels on either side of the central gondola.
The performance data at the boundary of the higher speed is generally higher compared to the real body locust, but it is associated with a "rough" path in the turbulent water tank and a lower load capacity compared to a conventional V-bottom.
"3-hull", arched design
These bodies usually have a keel bottom with additional side plates on either side; Between the keel and the darkness there are two vaults.
Often these arches are more pronounced in the nose. The advantage of this case is greater stability, especially at rest. The disadvantage is the uneven course with jumps in restless water.
Flat bottom housing
The flat bottom of a boat from side to bottom underside without a keel is called a flat bottom.
The plane of intersection of the bottom with the side walls (sides) may have a so-called "bell". The chimney can be rectangular, sharp ("solid") or semicircular, rounded ("soft").
pontoon
The pontoon design has a flat bottom which rests on two or three pontoons, usually made of aluminium.
This design allows maximum use of the useful surface of the floating object. The pontoons simply go into the water at the speed of operation, but the front ends must be shaped accordingly.
Boat bottom shape
To achieve maximum speed, the bottom of the boat should be as straight as possible in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern for about the last 5 feet (1.5 m).
In addition, the angle between the bottom and the trench must be sharp enough to achieve maximum speed and reduce slip.
A bottom is said to be "hollow" if it is concave in the longitudinal direction of the axis from bow to stern in lateral view. The concern determines the greater resistance of the stern (in the stern) and leads to a lowering of the bow (bow trimming).
How to make a boat from boards with your own hands
This increases the wetted area and reduces the speed of the boat, but at the same time promotes slip and reduces the inclination of the boat for the "dolphin" "Kozlenev" (rhythmic rebound). Often during boat building, the concavity is special.
However, concavity can be obtained, for example, by improperly transporting the boat on a trailer or insufficient storage if there is no support directly below the diameter.
"Swinging chair" is the exact opposite of "swagger".
The lower part of the boat has a bulge in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern in side view. Along the way, the convexity of the bottom may be the result of a "goat", "dolphinization".
Concavity and convexity is a multifaceted area and most importantly in the area from the center to the rear (called the critical zone at the bottom) a negative impact on the speed of the boat, often resulting in a decrease in speed to a high performance boat, several kilometers per hour.
Units with one or more engines
On single-engine units, right-hand drive units are almost always fitted.
This is simply a gift of tradition, but nevertheless it persists with the practice of pleasure craft builders. In this case, the control panel is located on the right side of the boat in order to compensate for the roll caused by the correct rotation of the propeller.
This controls the steering cylinder in both directions when the PLA or other propulsion system controls the trimmed hydraulic system equally. Most ship builders prefer to rotate the propeller "outside" the propeller in the opposite direction from the center on both sides, in other words, rotate the starboard PLA and portboard PLC counterclockwise; while routing is supposed to be, in general, though not much, but an improvement.
In addition, it provides more balanced control in the power work of only one of the two engines.
Many seniors equipped with two boat outboards use propellers that spin in the same direction. The disadvantages of such a system include increased steering torque at large angles, both up and down (on boats without power steering), as well as (for example) a slight feed drift at just the right time when the force of the boat's two propellers in very rough water "does" the body on the surface and literally flies like airbags.
In specialized stores you can find a fairly large number of boats of various shapes and sizes for tourism and fishing. Despite this, many are interested in a homemade plywood boat.
Advantages of a boat made of plywood sheets:
- Light weight design. You should be aware that glued veneer weighs much less than solid wood.
- Structural stability. The boat is assembled from solid plywood pieces and has clear geometric proportions.
- Low cost, which consists of the cost of plywood sheets, boards, adhesive mixture and primers that are used to process plywood boats.
Any person who has some skills in carpentry can make a similar boat in about 1 day.
Tools and materials
Today there are a huge number of different varnishes, impregnations and adhesive mixtures for plywood. Each element has its own advantages and disadvantages. To make a boat, you do not need to have any special tools and materials. The following items will be needed:
- Plywood sheets. For the production of boats, in most cases, sheets of glued birch veneer 5 mm thick are used. The frames and keel are cut out of thick plywood (12-15 mm).
- Wood. It is used for mounting internal struts, decorating sides, seats and other elements. It is recommended to purchase edged boards from light woods. Most often on sale there are spruce and pine. You should know that spruce is whiter than pine and has greater water resistance, therefore it is recommended to use it for sheathing. However, do not forget that spruce boards can split in the process of driving nails.
- The suture material is used to fasten individual skin elements into a single structure. The seams can be decorated with thin and flexible wire, plastic clamps, thick nylon fishing line and other elements.
- adhesive mixture. It is used to ensure the necessary tightness of the seams. Today, casein-based natural formulations are practically not used. In most cases, craftsmen use polymer resins.
- Special varnishes and impregnations that can protect wood from destruction.
- Fiberglass or other material to protect the seams.
- Waterproof paint.
You will need certain geometric parameters of the boards. The width of the elements should be 30 cm, and the thickness should be 2.5 cm. For the stern and sides, boards 86.4 cm long are needed.
To make reliable boards, only high-quality plywood sheets should be used for sheathing, which do not have cracks, knots and other defects. The price of materials of the best grades is higher, but only in this case you can be sure of the safety of the boat being made.
You will need the following tools:
- saw for woodworking;
- electric jigsaw with a set of blades of various lengths;
- grinding machine;
- hand tool;
- clamps for fixing plywood sheets in the process of gluing;
- several brushes for impregnation, varnishing and painting.
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Manufacturing process
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Drafting
First of all, you need to decide what kind of vessel you need to make. Today there are a large number of different drawings of homemade plywood boats. You can make, for example, a boat with a flat bottom for fishing or a boat for tourism.
If the existing drawings do not fit, then you can design your own scheme. So that a home-made boat does not turn out to be exclusively decorative, you need to calculate the carrying capacity.
To draw up your own boat scheme, you should first study the existing projects of home-made plywood boats. It is necessary to transfer the contours of the main elements to paper. On plywood sheets, you need to draw lines along which frames and sheathing sheets will be cut. For this, it is recommended to use a manufactured paper template.
If the length of the purchased plywood sheets is not suitable, then they need to be spliced. To do this, the end parts of the plywood must be cut at an acute angle so that the length of the resulting slope is 8-10 thicknesses of the sheet itself. Next, you need to coat the beveled parts with an adhesive mixture and clamp with clamps. At the same time, wooden bars should be prepared from which the boat frame will be made.
On such goats it is much more convenient to place all the elements during bonding, especially if the construction of home-made boats from plywood is done without helpers.
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boat hull
The frame of the boat is made of pine slats.
- Using a wood saw or an electric jigsaw, you need to cut out the details according to the patterns from boards, bars and plywood sheets. The offset from the design dimensions should not exceed 1 mm, otherwise the sides will not be able to converge during the stitching process.
- The rear side and frames must be glued in order to obtain the necessary thickness and strength. The glued elements are heavy, but this will not affect the quality of the structure.
- To increase the strength of the connections, it is recommended to additionally fix the frames and transoms with self-tapping screws. The length of these fasteners must be such that the tip does not pierce the workpiece through. Self-tapping screws must be galvanized or tin-plated. It is recommended to use screws with a length of 18x3 mm or 25x3 mm. Self-tapping screws 60x4 mm and 60x5 mm are suitable for fixing the seats, sides and feed.
- A transom is installed on the manufactured goats.
- After that, you need to fix the bottom and sides to the transom, bringing them together on the bow.
- If plywood is not too thick, then the sheathing elements are fixed with suture material. These elements can also be fixed using an adhesive mixture. In the latter case, you need to chop off the extreme parts of the plywood at an angle.
- All parts must match in size. You should be aware that in order to reduce the gap, it is necessary to disassemble the entire product and partially trim the frames.
- If you plan to install an outboard motor, then the transom must be glued with fiberglass and reinforced with hardwood boards.
- After the rough assembly is done, you should start gluing.
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Adhesive work
- First of all, you need to prepare a composition of epoxy resin and aerosil. The elements must be mixed in a 1:1 ratio, for which it is recommended to use the appropriate nozzle on the drill. The mixture should be the consistency of sour cream.
- The corners between the bottom, sides and transom need to be reinforced with wooden fillets - small corners that can ensure the rigidity of the connection.
- Fiberglass strips must be glued to all seams from the inside, well smearing the joints with the prepared mixture. Most adhesive mixtures contain volatile toxins. In this regard, varnishing and painting work must be carried out using respiratory protection equipment.
- After the adhesive mixture has dried, you will need to install the frames in the selected places.
- To fix the frames, you should use the same adhesive mixture. If the boat being manufactured is large, then in order to strengthen the structure, it is recommended to additionally fix the frames on the bottom and sides with overlapping strips of fiberglass.
- The flooring is laid on the bottom, oarlocks, seats and other elements are fixed.
- If you need to equip a closed space in front of the vessel, you will need to install a cover. This element is fixed on the sides and frames.
The bottom of a homemade boat is made from a single piece of plywood, but it must be joined to the sides and stern. Therefore, the joints must be glued. In this case, various waterproof compounds can be used, but if these are not available, then oil-based thick paint can be used. With compression and swelling of the joint, such a mixture will not let water through. The joint will also need to be tightened with self-tapping screws, while the minimum step is 40 cm. All seams must be caulked with a canvas.
After the structure dries, it must be removed from the goats, turned over and sanded the outer base. Next, the seams are processed with the mixture made and the bottom is glued with fiberglass.
