Do-it-yourself sup board made of foam. Do-it-yourself surfboard - instructions for making dreams come true

Windsurfing is one of the most exciting and. Windsurfing is a hybrid of surfing and regular sailing. To ride the waves, athletes use a windsurfer (sometimes called a windsurfer, just like the athlete himself). This is a floating board to which a mast with a sail is attached.

You can make your own windsurf board

This board does not have a steering wheel. The athlete learns to control the projectile by adjusting the direction of the sail and the positions of his own body.

Just as exciting as surfing, but less expensive than sailing. Moreover, you can make a windsurf for practicing this type of active sport with your own hands at home. True, for this you must be able to handle wood well and it is desirable to know at least in theory the basics of elementary shipbuilding.

Before describing the process of manufacturing a floating product, you need to decide what materials you will need.

materials

Stock up on all the necessary materials and tools in advance to be less fussy and more solid. Try to be careful when buying material. The process of creating a sailing surfboard is already quite laborious. And buying missing products will only add to the hassle.

So, before starting the manufacture of the board, buy the following consumables:

• two large sheets of plywood. It is necessary that the thickness of each of them reaches 4 millimeters;
• a sheet of plywood 1 centimeter thick;
• rails 20 by 20 millimeters. You will need about seven pieces;
• seven meters of thin rails;
• slats 2.5 meters long, 10 by 30 mm. You need to purchase six pieces;
• a small piece of plywood up to two millimeters thick;
• epoxy waterproof adhesive;
• nails;
• construction foam;
• fiberglass;
• waterproof dyes;
• metal strips;
• a small piece of brass;
• a strip of duralumin 4–5 mm thick.

After purchasing all these goods, you can begin the process of creating a sailing projectile.

Frame

The first step is to make a board - the body of the product. You can see the dimensions of its parts and the principle of their relationship below in Figure 1.

kilsons

Making surf with our own hands, we take plywood and cut two kilsons. They can be made with a regular saw. For convenience, first draw the contours of one kilson and cut it out, and make the second board in the image and likeness of the first.

The kilsons along the contour must be connected. This is done with the help of rails. Do not forget that the product will have a mast. Leave room for her. How you fix the mast and the centerboard depends on the future level of control of the surf.

When creating the board, do not forget to cut small holes in the kilsons. In the future, this will help the device ventilate.

Most likely, the sheets of plywood you bought will not be long enough to create a one-piece structure. But the board can be glued. Use a rasp to process the parts to be glued. Gluing points need to be processed so that they become rough (this will increase the level of adhesion). After that, grease the board along the edges with epoxy glue and connect the plywood sheets. A rail can be inserted between them to determine the internal height of the projectile. The overlapping sections of the plywood structure must be knocked down with nails. When the workpiece dries, the sharp tips of the nails will need to be bitten off. The rail is also removed when it dries.

deck and bottom

They can also be made. This is done according to the drawings. These cut parts must first be glued to the kilson, and then secured with nails. Pay attention to the fact that the fasteners are located from each other at a distance not exceeding thirty centimeters.

The boards need to be filled with construction foam. In the worst case, you can use the packaging type of this material.

Lubricate the foam for fixing with epoxy. Glue must be applied to each piece. After that, the material should “look” over the board for half a centimeter.

When the glue dries, it will be necessary to give the foam an oval shape. This is easy to do with sandpaper.

The resulting design must be "packed" in fiberglass. You can use a wood stapler for this.

holes

After upholstery, it is necessary to prepare holes in the places to which they will be attached: fin, steps and centerboard.

Painting

Now you can give your device the look you want by painting the whiteboard with waterproof paint. If you impregnate plywood with drying oil after painting, it can last longer.

Mast

The mast created can be made from long rails. In principle, they can also be replaced with a duralumin tube.

When creating a mast from rails, they must be glued according to the drawings shown in Figure 1 and processed.

After manufacturing, the mast must be checked for strength. If the device turned out to be too flexible, coat it with epoxy glue and cover it with one layer of fiberglass. This should increase the elasticity of the product.

The mast must be coated with a water-repellent varnish.

Make flats on its thick ends. A hinge will be attached to each. You can see its device in Figure 2.

The hinge cube is made of brass, and the metal parts are made of metal strips, the thickness of which is 2-4 millimeters.

Geek

For him, slats 10 by 30 millimeters are also useful. They need to be laid on a coulag and precisely fit one to the other. After that, the surface of the rails must be sanded with sandpaper and smeared with glue. Now they can be clamped with a tsulago.

The outer fitting must be made from harvested duralumin.

Fin and centerboard

Your surfboard's daggerboard must be movable. The athlete must be able to extend and retract it. It can be made from plywood 1 centimeter thick. You will need to cut out two identical shapes and then glue them together.

The pen of the daggerboard needs to be shaped like a drop. After that, soak the centerboard with drying oil.

Glue the fin from 3 or 4 mm plywood.

Sail

The sail is the engine of your surf. Therefore, it is advisable not to save on it. Do not be stingy and buy this part in the store.

However, if you still decide to create this part of the shell with your own hands, do it carefully and carefully.

Material

Choose a synthetic material with a minimum level of breathability. It will not gain much mass when wet and at the same time will perfectly cope with the role of a “tractor”.

Lavsan is ideal. You can also use a thin tarp.

For loyal skiing conditions, you can choose jacket and raincoat fabrics, as well as cotton materials. But when using them, remember the need for additional reinforcement. Fake seams will help you with this.

Croy

The sail should be cut after the mast is on board. So you will know the exact required dimensions and even calculate the deflection.

To cut the fabric, lay it out on the floor. Determine the luff lengths, sail angles and draw on the material. Roulette will help you with this. Hammer a nail at the top of the corners. Tie a thread to each nail. Pull it to each corner to make a triangle.

The length of the thread of each side of the triangle should match the length of the luffs.

Transfer the dimensions of the sickles from the drawing. With the help of a regular felt-tip pen, you can outline for yourself the maximum dimensions of the sail. Don't forget about hem allowances. On average, one allowance can reach half a meter.

After installing the sail, the product is considered ready.

If you know a little more about how to create a windsurf yourself, please share your experience in the comments.

Favorable wind to you!

In the article we will talk about all types of surfers and how to make them yourself. In addition, we will tell experimenters and extreme sportsmen about creating a board equipped with its own engine.

Boards are different

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, functionality:

1. Longboards. They look like a small boat, they are the most stable, so they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
2. Minimalibu. Suitable for the development of surfer skills even more - on a voluminous and moderately long board it is easy to feel the wave.
3. Evolutive. Suitable already for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
4. Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the entire range.
5. Shortboards. Short and narrow surf for real pros. Differs in technicality and maneuverability.

How to DIY

The most convenient to make on your own are fiberglass and epoxy surfboards.

To do this, you need a polyurethane foam form, polyurethane resin and fiberglass (first option) or EPS resin and a blank of polystyrene foam (second option). In both cases, you will need a long wooden plank - the future stringer, thanks to which the surfboard becomes rigid.

We make them with our own hands like this:

1. Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer bar.
2. Give the board a shape - the shape you want, which will influence the "character" of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its appearance, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A do-it-yourself surfboard is made along the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a planer.
3. Write on the already formed board the size and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
4. Mark the places for the fins and paint your creation
5. Apply fiberglass over the pattern and begin the final stage - lamination. This is an even application with a spatula over the entire surface of the resin board. After it dries, drill holes for the leash and fins.
6. Sand the surfboard to remove any resin residue, coat with a high gloss resin finish and leave to dry overnight.

All! Handmade surfboard.

motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

• graphite foam;
• plywood (3-4 mm);
• polyurethane foam with glue effect;
• and, in fact, the engine.

Operation instructions:

1. This design is most suitable form "fish". Make the foam in the shape of a "fish".
2. Make a recess in it according to the size of the sealed box, where the engine and the PowerBank that feeds it will be placed.
3. From boxing and the motor should go (from a drill, for example), to which it is necessary to attach. You can also build a steering wheel.
4. We advise you to use an engine from a pump no weaker than 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered by PowerBank (you can use either one or a pair of batteries).
5. The engine must be connected to the batteries through a waterproof switch.

Here is a simple way to make a surfboard with your own hands. And we hope that this article will inspire you a little to create the surfboard of your dreams.

The craftsman has over a decade of experience making surfboards. In this instruction, he will guide us through all the steps and intricacies of making a board. Almost every step is supplemented with video instructions.

Tools and materials:
-Polystyrene XPS or EPS;
- Polyurethane adhesive;
- Epoxy resin type Resin Research;
- Additive to resin ADDITIVE F;
- Fiberglass cloth;
-Water-based paint;
-Auto polishing;
-Work stand;
-Screeds;
- Clamps;
- Grinder;
-Scales;
- Penorez;
- Sandpaper with grain size from 20 to 2000;
- Scotch color;
- Paint brush;
- Containers for mixing resin;
-Gloves;
-Respirator;
-Putty knife;
- Rags;
-Plywood;
-Band-saw;

Step One: Choosing Styrofoam
A surfboard can be made from two types of Styrofoam. Consider the pros and cons of each.
EPS - unpressed expanded polystyrene.
+
White color, does not delaminate, easily accessible, large blocks.
—
When damaged, it absorbs water, when grinding, small balls may separate, it is necessary to dry after use.

XPS extruded polystyrene foam.
+
Does not absorb water, does not "crumble" when sanding, does not require drying, easily accessible.
—
It can delaminate, has a blue or pink color, is available only in sheets.
This board will be made from XPS Styrofoam.

Step two: gluing sheets
The board needs a material with a thickness of approx. 10 cm. Since there are no such sheets, the master glues two sheets of 5 cm each. First, he cleans the surface with sandpaper. Wipes with a rag. Polyurethane adhesive is applied over the entire surface of one sheet. The surface of the second sheet is wetted with water (glue starts on contact with water). Sticks two sheets together. Through the boards, it tightens the sheets with ties and clamps. Bonding time 24 hours.

Step three: stringer
A stringer is a thin strip of wood or other materials that runs along the longitudinal axis of the surf. The stringer strengthens the structure of the board, providing it with additional rigidity and flexibility.
The stringer is made from plywood. The template is made according to the instructions from the Clark Foam catalog.
Transfer the template to plywood and cut it out with a band saw. Processes the ends with sandpaper.

Next, you need to glue the stringer to the polystyrene foam. Cuts a block of Styrofoam lengthwise into two equal parts. The master uses a board as a guide. Cleans the sides with sandpaper. Attaches a stringer to each side and circles with a marker. A stringer is glued between two blanks with polyurethane glue. Clamps with straps. Leaves for 24 hours.

Video next step.
Step Four: Trimming
After gluing, the stringer template boards are fixed on the sides of the board with adhesive tape. Templates serve as guides when cutting off excess layers of polystyrene foam. Trimming is done with a homemade foam cutter.

Video for step #3, 4.

Step Five: Trimming the Edges
Draws the outline of an old surfboard (or makes a paper template, you can find a template on the Internet). Cuts both sides. Sands one side. Then he makes her a template and mirrors it to the other side. Processes the second side according to the template. The two sides are symmetrical.

Step six: sanding
Grinds the board using a variety of tools and accessories from a grinder to sandpaper. It is necessary to achieve an almost symmetrical shape of both halves of the board.

Video of step #5, 6.

Step Seven: Rails
Rails are the edges of the board from nose to tail. Rails master rounds. To do this, it applies markings to the surface of the board (deck) and rails. Then cut off excess material. If the material is damaged putty it. If a large piece is damaged, it glues polystyrene foam.

The end of the production of the surfboard in the second part.

usamodelkina.ru

Surfs are divided into several types according to stability, maneuverability, functionality:

1. Longboards. They look like a small boat, they are the most stable, so they are well suited for beginners, helping to maintain balance.
2. Minimalibu. Suitable for the development of surfer skills even more - on a voluminous and moderately long board it is easy to feel the wave.
3. Evolutive. Suitable already for surfers making progress. They perfectly combine stability and maneuverability.
4. Ghana. Their element is big waves. The most functional of the entire range.
5. Shortboards. Short and narrow surf for real pros. Differs in technicality and maneuverability.

How to make a surfboard with your own hands

The most convenient to make on your own are fiberglass and epoxy surfboards.

To do this, you need a polyurethane foam form, polyurethane resin and fiberglass (first option) or EPS resin and a blank of polystyrene foam (second option). In both cases, you will need a long wooden plank - the future stringer, thanks to which the surfboard acquires rigidity.

We make them with our own hands like this:

1. Cut the workpiece in half and insert the stringer bar.
2. Give the board a shape - the shape you want, which will influence the "character" of your board. At this stage, the length, width, thickness of the board, its appearance, the shape of its deck and bottom, rails, tail and nose are determined. A do-it-yourself surfboard is made along the contours of wooden patterns. It is shaped with a saw, sandpaper and a planer.
3. Write on the already formed board the size and leave your signature - this is the tradition.
4. Mark the places for the fins and paint your creation
5. Apply fiberglass over the pattern and begin the final stage - lamination. This is an even application with a spatula over the entire surface of the resin board. After it dries, drill holes for the leash and fins.
6. Sand the surfboard to remove any resin residue, coat with a gloss resin finish and leave to dry for a day.

All! Handmade surfboard.

motor surfboard

A do-it-yourself surfboard with a motor is made from simple, one might say, improvised materials:

• graphite foam;
• plywood (3-4 mm);
• polyurethane foam with glue effect;
• and, in fact, the engine.

Operation instructions:

1. This design is most suitable form "fish". Make the foam in the shape of a "fish".
2. Make a recess in it according to the size of the sealed box, where the engine and the PowerBank that feeds it will be placed.
3. From the box and the motor there should be a flexible shaft (from a drill, for example), to which a propeller should be attached. You can also build a steering wheel.
4. We advise you to use an engine from a pump no weaker than 200 watts and 2800 rpm. As already mentioned, it will be powered by PowerBank (you can use either one or a pair of batteries).
5. The engine must be connected to the batteries through a waterproof switch.

Here is a simple way to make a surfboard with your own hands. And we hope that this article will inspire you a little to create the surfboard of your dreams.

fb.ru

Further…
Body sticker!
Before pasting, it is necessary to sand the seam so that the resin sticks to it well. Remove all irregularities. You can putty the necessary areas for the perfect shape.
did it with the same resin but with the addition of aerosil to the desired consistency. (Aerosil is a white powder, silicon dioxide, used specifically to make the resin viscous)
I must say right away: it is NOT NEEDED to cover with resin and fabric as in the video from YouTube - several layers of fabric at once and one bucket of resin - in 5 minutes! We are not pros)) We do everything calmly and little by little. We mix in small portions and pour first over the workpiece, leveling with a spatula - so that the resin fills the micro pores of the foam and then there are no bubbles. Then we put 1 layer of fabric and smooth it on the workpiece with a spatula, stretching the fabric so that there are no wrinkles and folds. (At the last gluing, I simply put a roll of fabric on the board and unwound it by rolling it over the board, cutting off the length after the fact, after which I just had to smooth the edges a little on the bends. This method, in my opinion, is the most convenient and leads to the least amount of wrinkles and folds !) Now we pour the fabric from above and again work with a spatula, distributing the resin evenly and smoothing the fabric on the curves (it sticks without problems taking the desired shape!) Remove the excess resin with a spatula, there should be no liquid!
As soon as we finished with the first layer - IMMEDIATELY put the second one on top according to the same principle - leveled, then the resin - distributed with a spatula ... repeat with the third layer.
After spreading the resin with a spatula, leave to dry for 12-24 hours. On the finished surface, the texture of the fabric itself will show through a little.
o in principle, it is not critical (there is also a texture on inflatable boots) If desired, you can putty the car with putty until a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.
*** IMPORTANT! When we have already laid the last layer of fabric, we need to realistically evaluate the required amount of resin that we will pour over the last layer. LIVE SHOULD NOT BE! those. if you put the last layer and it is almost completely saturated from the bottom ones, you don’t need to pour another bucket of resin on top! Pour a little bit and level, removing all excess so that the texture of the fabric shows through. Directly pressing the spatula well, we remove all unnecessary. Otherwise, excess resin will collect into clots when dried and remain bumps on the surface. It is practically impossible to sand this thing to a smooth one !!! Just putty on top. If all the excess is removed, the surface will remain smooth, slightly textured. At the same time, the strength of the structure will be even higher !!!

We do it all so far only on one side!
As a result, we get something like this))

vk.com

Alexander Orlov decided to build his own SUP. After the first unsuccessful experience, he decides to start all over again, but having approached the process more thoroughly. Here's what the constructor says:

“I sketched out a sketch of the future board, taking as a basis those boards that Evgeny Rezontov advised me. Dimensions 3.4m by 0.75m. Thickness 0.11m. The shape is streamlined, symmetrical, flat. However, I noticed that many boards have a stern edge, as it were, cut off ... Why is this done?

As for the design: it will stick together from several layers. Top and bottom layers 30mm polystyrene foam. Between them is a non-continuous layer of 50mm polystyrene foam, the cavities in which are filled with ordinary foam balls. This is done to facilitate the board, because. polystyrene foam weighs 2 times less than polystyrene foam. Another option is not to fill these voids with anything at all.

Well, I suppose to make a longitudinal stiffener from laminated 4mm fiberboard. All this is covered with two layers of fiberglass. The estimated weight of the board is up to 10 kg. Volume 230 liters.

My goal is to be on the water plus maybe a shoulder girdle workout. We are not talking about extreme skiing, catching waves, etc. Moreover, I live in central Russia on the Volga River. Therefore, I expect comfort, stability and good speed from the board in the first place. Why did you choose this form? Yes, it’s just that it is the easiest to manufacture, and I don’t know what pluses or minuses give other forms.

Why am I going to use Styrofoam? Yes, it is more expensive than foam plastic and heavier. However, it is much tougher and stronger. The first board, which I made too small, I managed to roll up in one layer of fiberglass and it was already stiff enough for me to jump on it. Boards made of PSBS are much softer and they are rolled into more layers of fiberglass, and the upper surface is additionally veneered. All this is very labor-intensive, especially at home.

After listening to the comments and advice of other interested people, Alexander revised his drawings and slightly modified his SUP, which will make it more maneuverable and increase performance on the water.

We are waiting for the continuation of this process and photos of the finished board and its happy owner.

supsurf.ru

Regarding the fins, it's still too much, but it's individual.
I have a 5.20 kayak that turns easier than a SUP, although that was my first impression. Yes, and actually the first exit. Not so long ago I stood on smooth water, I like mountains more, a stormy stream, high speed.
But the soul asked for water all the time, and the Caucasus and the Carpathians are available to me once a year, no more. So I switched to smooth water, and now I'm hooked

As for my SUP, I oriented it to hikes of 3-4 days to begin with, with full autonomy, i.e. the whole bivouac on the board, food, water too.
In principle, in the spring, as I polish, I plan to do 140 km along the Desna, go out for 3 days, maybe on May, I want to pull people up, ask for a canoe, which I made to order, 3 kayaks are now with me and walk.

As for operation, yes there are limitations, but not as big as it might seem at first.
With a kayak, after the first year of operation, both with good wind and wave, and, accordingly, with a chalk through one place, and among the ice (I had to chop the ice the year before last in order to break through the river), a couple of scratches on the varnish.

When I was at the Red Bull marathon, I had to get off in the middle of the distance, my legs cramped and I completely lost control, while chasing I got more water. In general, while I found a place where to drag the kayak up the slope, then while I got to the people with the kayak, where else the water was splashing, which I could not pour out, who were able to explain "where I am" to the driver ... Why am I all this? to the fact that I was dragging 500-700 meters of the kayak behind me, along the ground, roots, sand. branches. Not a single mark on the varnish! But the varnish is not very cheap either.
The second kayak rolled over on Mezhtgorye and a man, with a good wave, simply dragged it onto a concrete pier, tried to get into it 2 times and turned over and everything repeated. There YES! 2 layers of fiberglass were pierced, and then not up to the tree. It was possible to continue.

I do the same on the SUP, it's hard to kill.
He is not afraid of the sun, and in winter he can lie in the snow in any frost.

As for sharp stones, I do not take small pebbles on the sea, they do not leave marks, as well as shells, then yes, stones are deplorable for him.
If you run on asphalt, then the coating will also be 100% damaged, and then this is not fatal, the loss of aesthetics. no more.
But everything else does little to no harm. Including falls from a meter height.

In any case, the kayak had nothing, and I mocked them in full.
As for repairs, everything is much simpler, including the possibility of carrying out repairs in field conditions.

Regarding foam mats, in my case, this is not an option, or I have not yet met transparent foam mats. I don't want to close the drawing.

Another point, for me, a tree is a soul, its own character, an exclusive.
As for mass production, this is a series.
But this is my personal opinion, on which I do not insist

supforum.com.ua

How to windsurf.

Making a windsurfing board with your own hands is a laborious task. You need to take it seriously. There is a lot of controversy on the topic of buying a board or making it yourself. If you still decide to do windsurfing with your own hands, then read on. (there is a test video)

Moreover, this technology is useful for the manufacture of car tuning, as well as for the manufacture of any fiberglass products.

Most often, it is much easier to buy a ready-made used board. If you are interested in trying a board of non-standard design, then the decision is justified. It also probably makes sense to start making a large learning board, from which you will quickly grow out, but friends can learn from it.

I will try to describe the most important moments of self-made windsurfing boards.

1. Project. The easiest way, of course, is to take the dimensions from the finished board and write them down in a table. Or specktiovat in the program 3d-shape.

2. For the manufacture of the base of the board, we will use foam with a minimum density, for example, 15kg / m3. Since it comes in sheets, but you will have to glue the sheets together. It is best to glue with construction foam. We use toothpicks as guides.

Once marked, glue the pie together, again using building foam and toothpicks or bamboo rods as guides.

So alternately glue the entire base of the board. Since the foam tends to expand, it is necessary to apply it a little and to load the glued parts well.

As a result, we get the basis of the board. The layered structure of the painfully glued elements will give us longitudinal strength.

After the foam has completely dried, i.e. not less than a day later, we begin to form a board from the resulting workpiece using an electric jigsaw and a clerical knife.

It would be nice to have external frame templates (cross-sections) to accurately cut the core of the foam board. We smooth the surface with a large emery board - the core of the board is almost ready.

It remains only to cut the redans in the aft part of the board; they reduce the sliding area of ​​the board in planing mode. Redan might look like this.

Or so. There are many more options. You can redan and not do.

Here is the core of the board almost ready. Bottom view.

Under industrial conditions, the core is made from a single block of low density extruded polystyrene foam using a copier machine. Manually, however, you have to decently tinker with it. How the finished product will look depends on the quality of its manufacture.

3. When the foam core is ready, it must be pasted over with coarse calico or any other cotton fabric on PVA glue. This will achieve several goals:

- level the surface

- epoxy resin tends to dissolve the foam and such pasting will serve as a barrier between the core and the outer stands of fiberglass.

4. The next and very important stage is the manufacture of a fin well and a masttrack, as well as mortgages for leg loops.

This process is worthy of a whole separate article, so I will state it very briefly. The photographs make it clear for the most part.

The fin well is made in a form that we cut out from several sheets of thick plywood.

As an internal bolt, we use a finished fin, which, before laying, is carefully coated in several layers with a separator and polished. As a separator, you can take a colorless wax-based shoe cream. In order not to be mistaken, make tests - smear some surface with cream and let it dry. And then drip with epoxy. When it hardens, it should easily separate from the surface. The finished fin well looks like this.

We make the shoulder strap for the mast from aluminum corners, which are screwed into the plywood base with screws.

The finished mastertrack looks like this

Mortgages for leg loops can be made from any plastic, such as polystyrene. You can take solid wood bars and glue them into bushings made of aluminum, brass, or, best of all, stainless steel.

An easier option is to glue cubes from many sheets of polystyrene. We fasten the loops into such cubes with screws.

After that, at the previously marked distance from the stern, we put in the master track (usually its center is 145 cm from the stern) and the fin well (the center is about 20 cm from the stern).

Before gluing both halves, several layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin must be laid in place of the dumpling. So we will form a stringer - the main longitudinal stiffener of the board.

We tighten the parts to be glued, for example, with rubber bands from an expander. In general, it’s a good idea to stock up on some of these rubber bands with hooks. Then they will come in handy in order to fix the board on the roof of the car when transporting over short distances.

6. The base of the board is ready. It remains not to forget to paste the mortgages under the hinges and proceed to lamination, i.e. covering the board with fiberglass and impregnating this fiberglass with epoxy.

But there is one more intermediate stage, which is not necessary, but very desirable - covering the board with a layer of wood veneer. It will give the board additional strength and allow you to reduce the number of layers of fiberglass and epoxy, and therefore reduce the weight of the board.

7. Lamination - covering the board with layers of fiberglass and epoxy. This is also a vast topic, worthy of an entire article, but I will try to write only the key points. Important - determine the places of possible mast fires and trampling and glue the board in these places with additional layers of fiberglass in epoxy. Only after that proceed to lamination. For lamination, you will need fiberglass with a density of 200-250 grams / square meter. I think 2 coats will be enough. We had a fabric with a density of approximately 350 g / sq.m. and very thin, then one layer was laid first and another thin layer. In places of additional reinforcement, two layers 350 of fabric are laid.

The fiberglass is applied to the board and then, with an assistant, a layer of epoxy resin is applied on top, carefully smoothing it and removing excess. It is important to prevent the formation of air bubbles. After that, we put it in a plastic bag and pump out air from it. As a vacuum pump, you can use a compressor from an old refrigerator.

Vacuuming allows you to remove air bubbles from under the fiberglass. Try to make the plastic of the bag fit the board nicely. Otherwise, ugly grooves will remain in the places of folds, which are then difficult to remove.

Laminate one side first, then flip over and laminate the other.

Is it necessary to vacuum when laminating? Not at all necessary. If you are very careful to remove any air bubbles, then you can just leave the board to let the resin solidify. Lamination can only be done at an air temperature below 24 degrees. Otherwise, the resin will be thick and will poorly impregnate the fiberglass, and then it will harden for a very long time. I can cook - for 100 parts of resin by volume, add 5 parts of plasticizer and 10 parts of hardener. In the new case, do not take out the board in the sun - it will immediately be covered with a mass of air bubbles.

8. The next step is to glue the mats and paint the board. I made the floor mats from sheet rubber I bought at the shoe market. Glue bought there. To reduce weight in rugs, it is good to punch holes.

9. Painting is not difficult. But there are some important nuances. I painted the board with automotive enamel. And when he wanted to decorate her with spray paint, she wrinkled. It turned out that the car enamel was based on alkyd. Then the non-slip coating had to be made with an alkyd-based yacht varnish. If you decide to paint with acrylic paint, for example from spray cans, then make a non-slip car acrylic varnish.

The manufacture of non-slip comes down to the fact that after applying the varnish, sprinkle with fine “extra” salt. In practice, the surface turned out to be rough enough for riding in wet shoes, but still slippery for barefoot skiing.

A cork made of an aluminum rectangle is glued into the board in front of the mastrek.

Water tests.

The industrial board Starboard Gipersonic was taken as the basis of the board, but it was slightly altered into a shape. As a result, it turned out:

Tests on the Dnieper, on the Sea of ​​Azov and on the Black Sea showed that the board behaves quite well. On the wave it goes smoothly and is very pleasant to go. Oh, stable. It's easy to get on the glider.

The fin was made homemade, but in the end we bought a herbal 32 cm powerbox from Boa constrictor. With it, the board sails well under sails and 4.5 and 6m. Spinouts were not observed. It passes through the grass "like a tank", only slightly slowing down.

I can say the following about the shortcomings - the board turned out to be somewhat heavy. It doesn't feel strong on the water, but loading it onto a roof rack feels good. During intensive skiing during the season, she received a mast on the bow several times. There was a leak at the crack. She was eliminated. There were defects on the lower edges, they also flowed. Eliminated - filled with resin. A glued plug was very useful for detecting leaks and removing water.

Since it was this board that was experimental - an attempt to repeat with modifications a somewhat unusual model with a non-flat bottom and at the same time some flaws in the shape came out, the exact dimensions are not specifically given. If you want to make a good board, then it is better to rent a model you like, for example, a "taboo rocket" and take measurements from it. In general, as practice has shown, it is worth making either a large board for training or a board with an experimental and unusual shape.

Watch the water test video here.

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howmake.in.ua

After two hours of sailing on a SUP 10.1′ in the waters of the Mediterranean Sea, I was so carried away by this water activity that I decided to buy myself such a board. But before that, learn how to stand on it normally, and made a balance board. Worked out a little, and gave up. But the heat this summer reminded me of the SUP, and after swimming for half an hour in the quarries in Dzerzhinsky on an inflatable 9.5′ SUP, I firmly decided to get the same one. But here's the bad luck - they are so long that they will not fit vertically between the floor and the ceiling in the apartment vestibule.

Ve from the board: 9 kg., keel: 0.3 kg., oars: 0.75 kg.
Total: 10 kg., less than the weight of a similar inflatable SUP board!

I made the board from 5cm foam. and 2.5 cm., with a spar 7 × 2 cm. from Baikal pine and 3 crossbars 4 × 2 cm. One of the crossbars crosses the spar at the CG where the rider should stand.
The foam is glued with foam and Titanium, trimmed, skinned, covered with kraft paper on scuba gear until drumming, then covered with organza on scuba gear and covered with 2-3 layers of rubber paint.

Through holes are made in the board for the carrying handle and for the keel. The keel is made of 6mm alubond, as is the oar. Paddle handle - 25mm. 2m. aluminum tube for cabinets from Leroy-Merlin. The hole pads are made from 4mm plywood. Plywood is screwed to the spars and crossbars, and to plasterboard plastic screw dowels, screwed-glued into the foam.

Tests in the rain and in the sun showed excellent behavior of the board. The board is very stable, keeps its course well due to the large keel and balance due to the width (1m versus 60cm for standard boards). When turning, the board is thrown back slightly to its original position, but this is predictable and parried. When hitting the bottom and underwater obstacles, the keel should protrude upwards in the slot, but this does not work yet (gets stuck).

Of the mistakes: it would be better not to use paper at all and scuba gear too. In those places (in holes) where the paper is open even at the edge, water spreads along it. It is also better not to use plywood, or at least varnish it properly. I did not use varnish, because. It takes a very long time to dry, and I still had to cover several layers ...

The boat took 2 weeks of leisurely work in the evenings and nights. In principle, you can really manage in a week if you find some kind of non-water and non-nitro, quick-drying varnish.

Videos happiness:

Album: https://fotki.yandex.ru/users/prikupets/album/165390/

Blueprints: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/46atk2ir9...x107x9IWa?dl=0

forum.rcdesign.ru

5 BEAUTIFUL NEW WATER FUN!! SURFING BOARD WITH WATERJET

3 months ago

★Car Millionaire★ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCY—X0FBPWEw_XeDC4zYlOQ?sub_confirmation=1 TOP 5 NEW COOLEST WATER ENTERTAINMENT!! SURFING BOARD WITH WATER JET. Hello everyone, you are on the Tip Top channel and today we have new water activities that everyone can try and which do not require any special skills and abilities. One of the coolest new water activities is Joy diving, Joy diving can be compared with ordinary diving, but instead of a heavy balloon on the back, diving is given an underwater scooter, anyone can handle this scooter. The management of this underwater vehicle is very simple and does not require any special skills. Another cool water activity is called jet boating. These are boats made to order with increased strength, excellent maneuverability and equipped with water cannons. Water cannons, due to their specificity, are more often used where it is dangerous or impossible to use a propeller. In such situations, for example, as when operating a boat in mountainous turbulent rivers with rifts, shallows and a rocky bottom. Another new water attraction is the SubWing hydrofoil, which allows you to maneuver underwater by changing the angle of the blades, looking at the depths of the sea. Further hydrofoil for kitesurfing hydrofoils, the design resembles an ordinary surfboard, the main differences are hidden under water, namely the wing that, when moving, creates a hydrodynamic lifting force lifting the board above the water, from the side it seems that the surfer is simply hovering over the waves in the air.. jet surf is another water entertainment that appeared not so long ago. Jet surfing was invented in 2008 by the Czech Martin Sula, who introduced a water jet into a surfboard, and now you can cut through the water even without waves. Motorized surfboard is a new water entertainment that has captured all surfers. Thank you all for your attention) SEE ALSO: ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————— — /www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eH6fs-948o TOP 11 BEST ROADSTER BODY CARS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjoU4hL7ftI 3 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO TURNED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes Record Holders https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uV1Y1CkTJSk 5 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO TURNED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes (part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlR5vHOI21E POLICE CARS IN DIFFERENT COUNTRIES OF THE WORLD!! Why Criminals Can't Get Away https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73NwjxwRyhw TOP 9 BEST OFF-ROAD CARS OF ALL TIME!! THE MOST PASSABLE CARS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-LyDxCpE_4 RELIABLE ENGINES OF MILLIONAIRES!! Resource MASS ENGINES (part 2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dyjhcdJS04 8 LEGENDARY JAPANESE CARS FROM THE 90S THAT DO NOT BREAK https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2993GnSzLm4 10 LEGENDARY MILLION ENGINES!! Most Reliable MASS ENGINES https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69DCimvUQAo 15 GREAT CHAMPIONS WHO TURNED THE HISTORY OF THEIR SPORT!! Top Best Athletes Record Breakers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUnsnR27n7w Production Music courtesy of Epidemic Sound! #Top #Top5 #Top5 #TipTop #TipTop #5NEW #COOLEST #WATER #FUN #surfing #subwing #kitesurfing #hydrofoils #surfing

All surfers sooner or later begin to think about how the board works, about the components of which it consists, about the materials from which the surf is made and how surfboards are made. Someone just for the sake of interest, and someone in order to better understand what moments in the device of the surfer affect his behavior. The purpose of this article is to acquaint you with how and from what materials boards are made.

History of surfboards

The history of surfing began in Polynesia around 400 AD. The Polynesians brought this sport with them when they first settled in Hawaii. The first Hawaiian boards were made from various types of wood growing on the island. The surfs were hand carved from wood, then painted and finished using the natural juices and oils of the plants.
The longest boards were called ‘olos, their length was from 3.6 to 6 meters, and their weight was about 90 kilograms. Experiments with wooden planks in the 1920s and 30s led to the hollow construction of the surfboard and the use of mahogany or balsa for its construction.

The first fiberglass board (from the English. Fiberglass - fiberglass) was made in 1946. It consisted of two hollow molded pieces with a central mahogany batten to strengthen the structure. In 1949, Bob Simmons made the first surfboard with a foam core sandwiched between thin layers of plywood veneer and topped with resin.
In 1958, boards of modern design were born when Hobie Alter began to manufacture surfboards with a pre-shaped polyurethane foam core covered with several layers of polyester resin. Today, the vast majority of boards are arranged this way.

How surfboards are made, their device and design

Modern boards use a rigid polyurethane or styrofoam core coated with fiberglass and resins. If a stringer is involved in the design, then it is made of mahogany, linden or spruce. Fins (fins) are made of wood or several layers of fiberglass and resin.

Shapers (the people who make surfboards) are constantly experimenting with board designs. Most surfboards are now handcrafted. Each design, each form is, as a rule, an individual development of a single shaper. Over the past 4 decades, boards have gotten shorter, then longer, then shorter again. Two fins replaced one, and they, in turn, were replaced by three fins.
And today, shapers continue to experiment with surfboard design, as they make surfboards better and better every time, trying to invent “the one”. So, for example, some prosurfers use from five to ten boards, depending on the style of riding or the type of wave at a particular spot.

How surfboards are made: the production process

1. Technique and materials may vary slightly from shaper to shaper, but in general the production process of a surfboard is as follows.
2. The foam core, or blank board (blank) - the first rough blank of the surf - is poured into cement molds, covered with special paper from the inside, which prevents the foam from sticking to the cement. The two halves of a cement mold are pressed together and heated, then liquid polyurethane foam is poured into the mold. The high temperatures start a chemical reaction that causes the polyurethane to harden and turn into a solid white foam. After 25 minutes, the workpiece is removed from the mold and left to cool. When the workpiece has completely hardened, it is cut in half, a stringer is inserted between the two halves and all three parts are glued together. The stringer gives the board additional rigidity.
3. At the next stage, the blank board is shaped (shaped). The contours of the surf are outlined on the workpiece, using wooden patterns. The saw cuts off excess material along the contours. Then the shaper, starting from the bottom of the board, gives it a more precise shape with an electric planer, after which the surf is turned over and begins to work with the other side. As soon as the board has been shaped, the rails (surf edges) are shaped with a large sandpaper, they are brought to the final shape with a zero, the place for the fin is marked and the author's signature is put with the sizes.
4. The board is now ready to form the outer, hard shell of fiberglass and resin. First, the future surf is blown with a jet of compressed air. After the drawing is applied directly to the foam with acrylic paint using an airbrush. Then, when the paint is dry, the board is covered with fiberglass and cut into shape. The surfboard deck is laminated first. The polyester resin is mixed with a hardener, this starts a chemical reaction that causes the resin to harden within 15 minutes. The resin is spread over the surface of the board with a rubber scraper. The fiberglass must be coated with a very even layer of resin. When the top of the board is finished, the process is repeated on the other side. Further, for greater strength and wear resistance, a second layer is applied on both sides. The next layer of resin is called filler. It has such a name because it fills all the irregularities of the previous layer. This resin is mixed with a hardener in a different proportion and hardens completely. Also at this stage, holes are drilled for mortgages for fins and leash.
5. Now any excess resin should be removed as much as possible with sandpaper.
6. Final processing. Compressed air removes all dust from the board and the surf is covered with the last layer of a special glossy resin. The board is left to dry for the next 12 hours.

Now you know how surfboards are made inside and out!

Quality control

The board is inspected several times during manufacture. After the blank is removed from the cement mold, it is carefully examined for defects. During shaping (shaping), the board is illuminated with a special light on the sides so that the shaper can notice any unevenness. After the final processing, the board is once again examined for compliance with the quality standards of the shaper.

What's next or the future of surf building

Experiments with board design, materials and process have led to new approaches to surfboard manufacturing. Each of them has its pros and cons

In the field of surfboard design, the use of computers has greatly simplified the board design process. Working with special software, the designer can develop a three-dimensional model of the future surfboard, easily change its dimensions and contours, and then print out the templates necessary for its manufacture. This saves a lot of time compared to the traditional method, but many shapers still prefer to rely on their eye and hands to judge the quality of a new board.

In terms of materials, more and more shapers have recently begun to switch to the use of polystyrene foam instead of polyurethane and epoxy resin instead of polyester. The advantage of these materials is in lightening the structure of the board, its strengthening and rigidity. In addition, epoxy is less harmful to the environment. The disadvantages are a much more complicated resin preparation process, a long manufacturing time and a high production cost.

In the process of shaping the board, there were also some innovations - the use of special computer shaping machines (computer-numerical-controlled, CNC), which can give the board the desired shape in 25 minutes instead of several hours that are required for manual work. The disadvantage of this technology is the high cost of the machine and the need to re-program it to produce a surfboard with a different design. In the end, everything goes to the fact that as they gain experience, surfers will order more and more custom boards at reasonable prices.

And finally, a video on how surfboards are made 🙂