Why is fuchsia sluggish. Causes of leaf fall in fuchsia

.

1. Fuchsia does not bloom!

And from a change in the place of suffering, there is no way to alleviate it - spray it 2 times a day, do not keep it in the bright sun and do not feed it for a month. Sometimes you have to trim the crown if it is very large. If her condition begins to deteriorate - the branches dry up, mold appears in the pot, the trunk rots at the base - then you will have to check the roots again. This could also be from overfeeding.

9. My fuchsia leaves are drying out.

Answer: In most cases, the tips of the leaves of fuchsias dry when the root system is damaged (bay, root collar rot, drying out of the coma, overheating of the roots, underground pests). The reason may also be a sharp change in air humidity (for example, if fuchsia, accustomed to high humidity "under a hood", is put in a hot, dry room without adaptation), frostbite, weathering (when taking fuchsia accustomed to room conditions to a balcony without adaptation), sunburn of leaves, ground pests

Graceful "dancing" fuchsia flowers - small and large, single, semi-double and double - won the hearts of flower lovers. The plant was first mentioned three centuries ago.

It is named after L. Fuchs, a German doctor and botanist who lived in the 16th century. Natural species turned out to be an extremely fertile basis for selections. As a result of crossbreeding and selection, the existing more than 10,000 varieties and hybrids continue to increase annually by dozens of new items.

Photos showing the most common types of plants and varieties of indoor flower - fuchsia

Species fuchsias are native to South America and New Zealand. They are not as numerous as hybrids, but they have their advantages.

• F. brilliant - shrub with long, red flowers. The short petals have light green tips. Hybrids with inflorescences in the form of brushes were bred from this species. F. Magellanic - shrub with single red flowers. Its natural size in a climate with warm winters is up to 3 m, and in more severe weather conditions, up to 1.5 mF. elegant - shrub no higher than 1 meter. Flowers with red sepals and purple skirts are united in inflorescences-brushes.F. miniflowering - a plant densely dotted during the flowering period with small flowers up to 4 cm in size.

Fuchsia hybrid

Most indoor fuchsias are hybrids. According to the type of growth of the bush and the type of inflorescences, they are divided into:

• bushy (erect) - their shoots are even, stretch upwards; ampelous - their flexible stems fall in a cascade; ampelous - bushy - they can be formed both as an ampelous plant and as an upright bush; for the formation of a bush, a garter to a support is necessary; hybrids with inflorescences in the form of brushes.

The most common bushy varieties are listed below.

• Alisson Bell (semi-double purple-red flowers). Anabel (there is also an ampelous version, large white double flowers). The Armbro Campbell variety is unpretentious and fast growing. Well rooted. Large showy double flowers with narrow, twisted red sepals and a pink-beige skirt. Blooms in winter. Ballerina (flowers with a pinkish-white skirt and scarlet sepals). Henriette Ernst (large double flowers, scarlet sepals, light lilac skirt). Thalia - profusely blooming racemose fuchsia. The sepals and the skirt of the flowers are bright orange in color.

Why do dieffenbachia leaves turn yellow? Be sure to check out this article.

Fuchsia ampelous

Many ampel varieties and fuchsia hybrids delight the eye with their elegant flowers hanging from hanging planters. Their stems are strewn with flowers from all shades of red to white. Even more beautiful are two-tone fuchsias.

Ampel varieties in care are not picky about either the composition of the soil or the lighting, they are shade-tolerant. The only thing that has a bad effect on them is the scorching sun with rays directed at them. There are many popular ampelous varieties. Listed below are just a few of them.

• Hollis Beauty (double flowers of white-pinkish color). Prince of Peace (simple flowers with white sepals and a red skirt). Blue Angel (double flowers with white sepals. The color of the skirt of the flowers of this fuchsia is almost like a classic violet - lilac-purple ). Imperial Crown (elongated profusely blooming scarlet-pink flowers are collected in a brush).

Ampel-bush fuchsia Margarita attracts attention with large, double flowers with delicate creamy-pink sepals and a creamy-white skirt. Likes semi-shade. With good care, it blooms for a long time and abundantly.

How to properly care for a plant at home

Under natural conditions, plants develop at moderate temperatures and high humidity. Therefore, the lush long-term flowering of fuchsias in room conditions will be facilitated by scheduled watering, spraying, moderate temperatures and optimal wintering. In winter, fuchsias enter a dormant phase, they must be kept cool at this time (+4 - +8 ° С) and in the dark, in the basement, for example.

Indoor flowers. Cultivation and care. Part 4 - Anthurium. Spathiphyllum

Or leave it on a cool window (+12 °C). Limit watering in both cases. At the beginning of spring, plants are cut, transplanted into larger pots and placed on windows.

In the light, fuchsias soon give new shoots and begin to bloom. During flowering, you should not often turn or constantly rearrange the fuchsia pots. Flowers fall off from this. Varieties with small flowers bloom more densely. You can grow fuchsias in the garden.

But Russia has cold winters. So that fuchsias do not die, they are brought into the room in the fall.

Do I need a fuchsia transplant after purchase

If you buy fuchsia in a transport substrate (imported version), it is better to transplant the plant, also if you can see the roots coming out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. So the plant is tight. When buying from domestic firms, with the optimal volume of the pot and the earth, the plant can be grown without replanting for some time.

The composition of the soil for the plant and fertilizer for the soil

Plants can be grown in any light nutrient loose soil with the addition of peat, sand and vermiculite. It is good to use perlite, humus as an additive to the soil. A small addition of clay will help retain nutrients in the soil.

A volumetric drainage layer must be added to the bottom of the dishes. Organic and mineral fertilizers for soil such as Effekton, Kemira, Pokon for geraniums are applied once a month during the intensive development of fuchsia. In autumn, feeding is reduced, in winter it is stopped.

pruning fuchsia

Regular pruning, or pinching, helps the plant to develop harmoniously. Regular pruning is the key to the desired shape of the crown of the plant. First pinch after the rooting of the cutting, then pruning is done regularly - in the spring, before flowering. Pinching over every 2-4 pair of lateral branches forms a beautiful fuchsia crown.

Watering and lighting

Fuchsias are watered from March to October as the topsoil dries out, but do not allow moisture to stagnate. The collected liquid is drained from the pan 15 minutes after watering. Lighting should not be bright.

On the eastern and northeastern window sills, fuchsia feels best. A great place for fuchsia in the summer - on the balcony or in the garden. Be sure to protect the plant from the wind, as fuchsia branches are very brittle.

And it should be located in the shade.

The optimal temperature for growing fuchsia home flowers

For normal development, fuchsias need a moderate air temperature - +20 - +22 ° C during the day and +16 - +18 ° C at night. At +30 ° C, fuchsia ceases to bloom and grow, often sheds leaves. Especially it is necessary to be wary of overheating of the roots.

Therefore, the plant is planted in white or light pots and transferred in time as the roots grow into more spacious containers. Low temperatures are also contraindicated for roots during stagnant moisture. When wintering a plant on a window, so that the soil does not get supercooled, a plank, a piece of polystyrene, is placed under the bottom of the pot.

Reproduction of fuchsia

Fuchsias are propagated by seeds, cuttings and leaves. With the latter method, the leaves are cut from the plant for propagation with pieces of shoots, added dropwise to the soil mixture and set up a “greenhouse”, in principle, the tricks of planting fuchsia end there. Fuchsia reproduces faster than rabbits with cuttings

How to grow houseplants from seeds

After the seeds ripen, they are taken out and dried, otherwise they can be bought in an online store and arranged for delivery by mail. Sow seeds in slightly moist soil. It is not necessary to sprinkle the seeds. Cover the container with seeds with a film.

Development from seeds to seedlings lasts about five months.

Features of cuttings and rooting

During the growing season (spring - autumn), the apical cuttings of fuchsia about 15 cm long are cut off under the lower bud perpendicular to the branch. After removing the lower leaves and leaving 3 pairs of leaves on the handle, put in water or peat, or sand, or an equal mixture of peat and sand.

After a couple of weeks, roots will form. It is worth noting that fuchsia flower cuttings can also be bought in online flower shops, delivery of course by mail.

Fuchsia diseases, features of treatment and care of an indoor flower during this period

In high humidity powdery mildew can develop. Help - preparations "Fundazol", "Topaz". It is also worth paying attention to the following points Why chlorophytum does not bloom, and what to do in this case.

Check it out here.

• The main pest of fuchsias is the whitefly. When it appears, the leaves should be sprayed with Actellik once every three days. In case of violation of the irrigation regime, frequent rearrangements of the flower, lack of light, dry air, the buds may fall off. A short flowering period may be due to keeping in a warm place and abundant watering, or due to undernutrition and lack of watering, or fuchsia is not enough light.

Fuchsias are best grown not in plastic, but in ceramic pots. In them, in the hot season, the roots of plants heat up less. In hot summer, it is necessary to remove fuchsias to the back of the room, and ice can be laid out near the pots. This will save the plants from dropping buds and leaves due to the heat.

Why do fuchsia dry, turn yellow and wither leaves

Fuchsia dries when poured. The plant should be placed in a cool place and rarely watered. You can spray epinom for a week. Fuchsia leaves turn yellow due to waterlogging of the soil mixture in the cold season.

Wither due to non-compliance with the rules at rest, or it is a lack of nutrients, as well as in low light. In conclusion, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the video material on propagating fuchsia using cuttings. Enjoy viewing and abundant flowering of your fuchsias!

Attention, only TODAY!

Fuchsia care video

How to care for fuchsia at home

The long-standing exotic ancestors of fuchsia are shrubs and trees, whose homeland is Central America and New Zealand. Many varieties of fuchsia are popular for home cultivation, but according to reference books it is known as hybrid fuchsia or Fuchsia hybrida.

Home fuchsia flowers have an unusual shape, somewhat similar to bells or small shades. Florists often compare fuchsia with "Chinese lanterns." Various varieties of fuchsia have many terry and semi-double hybrids, the difference of which is the number of corolla petals.

Fuchsia flower petals are rich in a variety of colors: they can be either white or purple, crimson or with red sepals. Fuchsia flowers can also appear collected in loose inflorescences or the so-called carpal hybrids.

Plant watering mode

For home maintenance and care, fuchsia is absolutely unassuming. Caring for her is very simple. In the spring-autumn seasons, fuchsia should be watered abundantly as soon as the topsoil dries up. But in winter, watering should be moderate.

Water should preferably be separated, it is softer and healthier. When the growing season ends, watering should be reduced. But for the period of October-November, in general, you can stop.At low temperatures, homemade fuchsia can be watered 1-2 times a month.

Light requirements

Any kind of fuchsia needs bright diffused light. It is better to have them on the western or eastern side. Fuchsia does not tolerate the heat of the day, but is very pleased with the morning and evening sun.

During the flowering period not necessary engage in rearrangement or rotation of the plant - all flowers and buds can fall off.

temperature requirements

For the growing season, temperatures in the range of 18-25 ° C will quite favorably affect. In the summer, (especially in August), open ground is perfect, but when the temperature rises to 30 ° C, fuchsia can shed its leaves, stop blooming and, on the contrary, begin to dry. In especially hot weather, the plant will feel better on a loggia or balcony, where direct sunlight will not reach it, which can lead to its death. To save its sensitive roots from overheating, it is better to use a large ceramic pot, it never gets very hot, unlike plastic.

Fertilizer and top dressing for fuchsia

Useful during growth spray leaves with a spray bottle, in the morning and evening, as well as to humidify the air, you can place a small cup of pebbles full of water near the pot. For the autumn and winter periods, excess moisture is not recommended, which means that you do not need to spray the plant. If fuchsia grows in open ground, then the efficiency of biofertilizers will be high, but for those growing indoors, any ready-made fertilizers intended for feeding indoor plants are suitable. It is necessary to fertilize once per week, starting to do this towards the end of March. During winter, fuchsia does not need to be fertilized.

Fuchsia transplant

Fuchsia transplantation at home should take place Every year and certainly in the spring. For these purposes, it is customary to use special soil, which is sold in stores, or any fertile soil is suitable.

And of course, drainage is necessary so that the plant does not draw in too much water. The use of sand or humus is suitable as a useful additive, and if the plant is grown on a loggia, then loam, which perfectly retains water. You need to transplant into a larger pot.

Shoots should be cut to a third of the total length. Transplantation is necessary for additional air flow, rooting, and also as a method of reproduction.

Reproduction of fuchsia

There are several options for propagating fuchsia:

• CuttingsReproduction using leaves

Reproduction of fuchsia cuttings

The period of reproduction of fuchsias by cuttings falls on the months of February-March, less often it is August-September, for those varieties that grow slowly. The length of the cuttings is about 5-7 cm, they take root in a preferably loose medium: it can be sand or water.

After 20-25 days, roots are formed, which means that seedlings can be transferred to pots of 7-9 cm. The composition of the soil mixture necessarily contains the content of sand, humus, leaf and sod land.

The proportions should be the same. To get a lush, luxurious bush, you need to plant cuttings in such a way that there are several in one pot. The young will flower the same year.

Propagation of fuchsia seeds

When propagated by seeds, artificial pollination is necessary for their maturation. By self-mixing different varieties of fuchsias, you can get many new hybrids that will delight the eye with their bright, beautiful shades.

Propagation of fuchsia leaves

Reproduction of fuchsia at home with the help of leaves implies the following scheme: you need to tear off the stems in tandem with the most developed leaves and lay them in loose soil no deeper than 1 cm. Then they can be covered.

For this, a plastic or glass lid is suitable. In order for them to grow well, they need to be sprayed every day with a spray bottle. Water should be boiled and warm.

As soon as small rosettes appear at the very base of the stem, it will be possible to start transplanting into small pots. The main purpose of reproduction is to increase the number of plants.

Diseases and pests of fuchsia

In general, a flower such as fuchsia is practically not susceptible to disease. If the humidity is too high, then small dewdrops may form on the fuchsia leaves. Also, the leaves may be covered with powdery spots.

To eliminate this trouble, it is necessary to start preparing a mixture of water with foundationol, in a ratio of 11: 1. You need to spray the plant with such a solution. Healthy leaves are not difficult to determine - a rich green color is a good sign. If the leaves turn yellow, this is a signal of chlorosis, which indicates abundant watering of the plant.

It is also possible that the plant lacks substances such as nitrogen or magnesium. If yellowness has appeared between the veins of the leaf, this means that the plant needs manganese. If dry brown spots appear, you should know that the plant needs molybdenum. The roots will give us more information for the diagnosis of the plant. A favorable sign if the roots are white and short. If the roots densely intertwine a clod of earth, then this is a signal that the plant needs to be transplanted as soon as possible, into a larger pot.

If there is no white color in the roots, but on the contrary they are brown and very dark, then this indicates that the plant is suffering from root rot. This is also a sign of abundant watering and most likely the plant will need to be thrown away. Fuchsia is also prone to a disease such as rust.

It can be recognized by the brown concentric circles at the bottom of the leaf. All leaves that have been affected should be removed immediately. After all, there is the possibility of a very easy transfer of disputes: from the wind, insects or human hands.

This disease is infectious and easily spreads to healthy plants. It is necessary to check in a timely manner whether other fuchsias are infected.

It is necessary to thoroughly wash and disinfect all the tools that were used when working with an infected plant. And by all means, you need to carry out the same manipulations with your hands if you accidentally come into contact with infected leaves. After removing the diseased leaves, you need to spray with such drugs as: Topaz, Vectra, Strobi, Bordeaux mixture, cuproxate.

Treat 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days. Speaking of pests, the harmful effects can be caused by white flies, they are the most well-known. White flies are small insects, no larger than 2 mm in size. Their color is white.

This name was given to them due to the presence of two pairs of white wings. In general, white flies are none other than representatives of the moth family. The larvae of these insects usually take root in the lower part of the leaves.

They harm by sucking out the juice and leaving traces in the form of white sugary secretions. Too badly damaged leaves can turn yellow and fall off. If the white-winged fly is not noticed in a timely manner, its rapid reproduction will damage the nearby fuchsias. To combat these harmful insects, special preparations are used, such as: Angara, Aktellik. There is an option to wash the leaves with green soap, but this method will only be effective for small plants.

Frequently asked questions related to growing monstera?

Questions most often asked by readers Reasons why fuchsia does not bloom:

• if in winter the fuchsia is kept in a room that is too warm if it is watered too much if it does not receive enough fertilizing or watering in summer if it does not have enough light during growth

If the fuchsia wilt, dry and fall off the leaves:

• This indicates excessive dryness of the air, and the soil suffers from a lack of moisture. The problem is solved very easily: you need to make watering and spraying more intense.

If fuchsia buds do not want to open:

• The reason for this may be abundant watering. It must be moderated so that the earth can dry out by half. Preferably, the topsoil should be replaced. Fertilize at least once a week.

Fuchsia care video at home

20 Comments

Room Fuchsia Care

There are many varieties of fuchsia, but the most common indoor fuchsia is fuchsia hybrid (Fuchsia hybrida). It is she who can most often be found in our apartments.

Lighting.

Indoor fuchsia is a rather unpretentious plant, it loves full lighting, but at the same time it is desirable to shade it on hot summer days. It is better to keep it on windows facing the east or west side. With a lack of lighting, fuchsia shoots are drawn out, which does not look very attractive.

Temperature.

For abundant flowering of the plant, the optimum temperature in the room should not be lower than 20 degrees; after flowering during the dormant period, it is better to keep fuchsia in a cool room at a temperature of 10-14 degrees.

Fuchsia watering and humidity.

On summer days, the plant should be watered twice with settled, soft water. In the spring-autumn period, watering is reduced to one time. In the winter months, the soil should dry out completely between waterings, during this period it is better to water the fuchsia once every two weeks.

When watering a plant, do not forget about the humidity of the air. This favorably affects the duration of flowering. If the weather is hot, dry, then indoor fuchsia can be sprayed twice a day, in cooler times twice a week is enough.

In winter, the plant does not need to be sprayed.

Substrate for fuchsia.

Don't forget about the condition of the soil. The easiest way to buy ready-made soil in a specialized store. But if you decide to prepare the ground for your favorite plant yourself, know that homemade fuchsia loves soil containing equal parts peat, rotted manure, leafy soil, sand and alumina.

Transplanting and pruning fuchsia.

In early spring, take care of transplanting indoor fuchsia, but first cut off its branches to the stiff part of the stem. This will give a more compact and beautiful shape to the flower in the future. Choose a pot one size larger than the previous one and be sure to have drainage holes.

Do not forget to put a layer of expanded clay on the bottom.

Fuchsia breeding.

After cutting the plant, do not discard the cuttings. From them you can get new plants, since indoor fuchsia propagates by cuttings and seeds. Remove the lower leaves from the cuttings, leaving no more than 3-4 upper leaves, and place them in water or wet sand.

For good rooting, keep the temperature at least 20 degrees. Periodically spray the cuttings, and change the water. The plant usually takes root in two weeks.

After that, the cuttings are planted in pots with ready soil mixture.

Fuchsia nutrition.

As soon as buds appear on room fuchsia, you should start fertilizing. It is enough to water once a week with liquid fertilizer for flowering plants, diluted in accordance with the instructions. At the beginning of autumn, feeding is stopped.

Do not forget, fertilizers are applied only to moist soil! Indoor fuchsia is very rarely exposed to diseases. At very high humidity, powdery mildew may appear or the roots may begin to rot.

With a strong overdrying of the soil, leaves and buds fall. Also, the fall of the buds can cause the rearrangement of the plant from place to place and drafts.

Fuchsia is a perennial plant native to Central and South America and New Zealand. Indoor fuchsia is a hybrid plant, has many varieties and forms. It has been grown in culture for more than 200 years, and flower growers call it "Japanese lantern" or "ballerina".

Under natural conditions, fuchsia has the appearance of a shrub with flexible branches. The leaves of the plant are green or reddish, have an oval, slightly pointed shape with notches along the edges. The flowers consist of a calyx and a tubular corolla with curved edges. The plant blooms for a long time and abundantly with drooping flowers. The stamens are longer than the calyx, the lobes of the calyx are longer than the petals. Fuchsia flowers appear on long stalks and come in white, pink, orange, red, cream, lilac and purple.

Fuchsia in the house does not require complex care, but the grower needs to know some of the nuances in this regard. There are recommendations for choosing seedlings, plant care during dormancy and flowering, transplanting and pruning.

Did you know? Fuchsia breeding has been going on for over 200 years. During this period, approximately 15,000 varieties and hybrids of this plant were bred.

How to choose the right fuchsia seedlings in the store

In stores, fuchsia is sold singly or by 3-4 cuttings. It depends on the size of the pot in which the plant is grown. When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to such points:

If the seedlings look good, but the leaves are small, the plant will not take on a decorative look so quickly. Small leaves may indicate insufficient watering and top dressing.

It is bad if the seedlings in the store are in a dark place and poorly watered. The buds of such plants may fall off, and the leaves turn yellow.

When buying fuchsia seedlings, it is important to make sure that they are free of pests. To do this, you need to examine the underside of the leaves, and if there are no spots and dots, then everything is in order. Also, after shaking the plant, whiteflies should not fly out of it, it is very difficult to get rid of them.

Fuchsia care at home

Caring for fuchsia at home is easy. There are few fuchsia care secrets, and they are all simple.

Fuchsia loves cool rooms, in summer the temperature should not exceed 20 degrees. For her, a northern or eastern window sill is suitable. In the summer, the plant must be saved from stuffiness; if possible, he needs to provide a place on the balcony or in the yard, where only in the morning the sun's rays will fall. The rest of the day, fuchsia is better to be in partial shade. If there are no options for placing plants in the house in the light with scattered sunlight, fuchsia also feels good under artificial lighting.

Watering the plant should be regular, which is especially important during the period of growth and flowering. Water needs to be filtered or defended. Spraying with water in the summer is also very useful, it refreshes the plant. Humidification can also be achieved by placing the plant pot in a tray of water.

Important! If the leaves of the plant are wilted, it must not only be watered, but also sprayed with water. After these procedures, fuchsia is covered with non-woven material - this is done to restore the elasticity of the leaves.

From spring to autumn, the period of active growth, reproduction and flowering of the plant lasts. It is necessary to take care of how to feed the fuchsia in the spring, as this will play a huge role in the active period of the plant's life. During flowering, fertilizers containing a lot of potassium and phosphorus are preferred for a flower.

With proper care, indoor fuchsia will delight its owner with its delicate flowers for more than one year.

Features of care during the flowering period

When fuchsia blooms, there are some special guidelines for caring for it. During the flowering period, watering should be sufficient and regular. Stagnation of moisture in the roots is unacceptable, but at the same time, the plant should be watered after the topsoil has dried.

Fuchsia is sensitive to changes, therefore, especially during the flowering period, you can not rearrange and rotate the plant. Such actions are fraught with the fall of flowers and buds.

Many plants cannot be transplanted during flowering, this rule also applies to fuchsia. As for top dressing, for example, Kemira Lux fertilizer contains nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, iron, zinc, manganese, boron, copper, molybdenum. It is very well suited for feeding fuchsia. From the moment the buds appear, you can water the fuchsia with liquid fertilizer for flowering plants at intervals of 1 time per week.

Did you know? If flowering weakens, and new leaves become small, this indicates the need to feed the plant.

Transplanting and pruning fuchsia

Transplant fuchsia as needed. It occurs after the purchase of the plant, and also as the pot becomes small. The soil for fuchsia consists of sod and leaf soil, sand, peat and humus, which are taken in equal parts. You can use ready-made purchased soil for the plant. It is very important to lay drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Ordinary expanded clay can act as drainage, on top of which the soil is laid. The plant is placed in a new pot with a clod of earth in which it grew. The remaining voids are filled with soil mixture.

After transplanting, put the fuchsia into the light, cut the length of the stems by one third, water and spray well. If the procedure was carried out correctly, the plant will release many flowers.

Pruning and shaping fuchsia begins when the plant is still a cutting. This plant is very plastic, and therefore it can be given any shape - bush, ampelous, pyramidal, standard tree.

New owners of fuchsia often have a question when it is possible to prune fuchsia. It is recommended to prune fuchsia twice a year: in early October, when the growing season is over, and in early January. During the first pruning, all faded stems are removed. Cut off is 2 cm above the sleeping kidneys. The second pruning is intended for the final formation of the crown.

When a plant first enters the house, it needs to adapt. Florists often wonder when and how to pinch a fuchsia after purchase in order to shape it the way they want. After adaptation and rooting, the plant releases new leaves. At this point, you need to pinch the top of the plant. To make the plant more flowering and leafy, new shoots are also pinched.

Important! It is very important to correctly form the fuchsia of ampelous varieties. They can form long shoots if not pinched in time. Such shoots bloom only at the ends. If they are shortened, new flowers will appear no earlier than in 3-4 weeks.

Optimal wintering conditions for plants

In different seasons, fuchsia is going through different stages of its life and development. In addition to periods of active growth and flowering, you need to know what to do with fuchsia in autumn and winter.

If during periods of active growth and flowering, soil moisture is necessary quite often, then in autumn the frequency of irrigation is reduced, and in winter it is watered 1-2 times a month.

In winter, the air temperature in a room with fuchsia should be up to 15 ° C. The plant will be comfortable at 8-10 degrees. Wintering fuchsia in an apartment is possible on a balcony or loggia, but you should make sure that the temperature there is not too low. By the way, in winter, fuchsia should not be fertilized.

During wintering, it is important that the plant rests properly. Having restored strength, in the new season, fuchsia will give abundant flowering that will last a long time. To gain strength of the plant, it must be cut off before winter dormancy and all pests removed.

Two ways to reproduce

Fuchsia is usually propagated in two ways - seeds and cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds. Reproduction by seeds is of interest mainly to breeders. This is due to the fact that fuchsia grown from seed does not retain the characteristics of the original plant (it rarely does).

When propagating by seeds, it is necessary to exclude self-pollination of the plant and its pollination by insects. To do this, the anthers must be removed from the unblown flower, the pollen of the paternal plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil. Next, a fabric or paper cover is put on the flower, fixing it with threads below the flower, which isolates it from insects.

After the fruit ripens, it is cut to extract the seeds, which later need to be dried.

Fuchsia seeds are sown on a moist substrate without embedding. Greenhouse conditions are created for the container with good lighting and room temperature. Seedlings should appear in a few weeks. After a couple of months, the sprouts dive, after which, after another couple of months, they are planted in separate pots.

Seedlings should be accustomed to the external environment gradually, since without adaptation to non-greenhouse conditions they can wither and die.

Fuchsia is very demanding on growing conditions. With an insufficient level of air humidity, a lack of light, the leaves of fuchsia turn yellow, dry and fall off. How to prevent it? A description of the main diseases of fuchsia from specialists and their effective treatment will help beginners in the successful cultivation of this indoor flower.

What to do if fuchsia leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off? Fuchsia diseases with photos and their treatment

A list of frequently asked questions about fuchsia diseases with photos and treatment from specialists. Problems of growing fuchsia.

Why do fuchsia leaves fall? This happens for a number of reasons:

Why does fuchsia drop leaves? This may be the result of overdrying the soil in a pot. where the flower grows. If the fuchsia has shed its leaves, this indicates problems with the root system. In the case of overdrying of the plant, it is impossible to sharply increase the frequency of watering. In the summer, you need to water the flower after drying the top layer of soil. Spray frequently. To avoid overheating of the soil in the pot and thereby aggravate the situation, the plant is removed from the bright sun, but the light level should remain at a high level.

Why do fuchsia leaves dry? This phenomenon can be caused by a number of reasons. Firstly, the tips of the leaves of fuchsia can dry out from a sharp change in air humidity. So, if the plant was grown under a hood, and then it was transferred to a room with dry air without acclimatization, then the leaves of fuchsia may dry. Secondly, fuchsia is not completely healthy when the leaves dry, this indicates problems with the root system. Violation of the functioning of the root system always affects the appearance of the flower. Fuchsia roots can rot from an excess of moisture, damage by root rot, and overdrying of the soil. If fuchsia leaves begin to dry, you need to carefully follow the rules for caring for an indoor flower.

One of the most common reasons for the death of fuchsia in the summer is the bay.

The importance of proper watering for fuchsia cannot be overestimated. It is the foundation of a healthy and strong plant.

Bay signs

• Shoots are drooping
• The leaves wither, then become covered with brown spots, dry and fall off.
• Flowers and buds crumble

In hot weather, fuchsia leaves become lethargic and drooping.

What is going on?
Fuchsia has a water exchange regulation system that allows the plant to close its stomata and thus prevent water loss.
But the stomata must be open to allow carbon dioxide access for photosynthesis. Therefore, the plant has to balance between the loss of water and the assimilation of carbon dioxide.

The stomata open early in the morning. Around noon they begin to close, and just before sunset they close completely. On very hot days at temperatures of 25°C and above, the stomata are open for a very short time in the early morning and closed for the remainder of the day. The same thing happens if the plant lacks water: the stomata are open for a very short time to conserve water.
Under such conditions, respiration and photosynthesis stop, and the leaves are no longer cooled by the process of evaporation - as a result, the plant wilts.

Watering fuchsia abundantly in this state is a guaranteed death of the plant.

Watering with closed stomata of the plant can lead to death, because closed stomata cannot ensure the movement of water to the leaves.

The best thing you can do for a drooping plant in a scorching heat is spraying the leaves.

Spraying cools the leaves and helps keep the stomata open longer. It should also be done on hot days to prevent wilting of the leaves. Proper spraying during hot weather also helps to keep the stomata open longer and thus support plant growth. Spray fuchsia should be in the shade!

Proper watering

So, watering is important to carry out in the early morning. Watering in the afternoon can do more harm than good. At this time, the stomata are closed, and the roots will be in the water all night and may rot.

How to save fuchsia after the bay?

If you notice these signs of flooding on your fuchsia, save it immediately!

1. Leave the plant in the shade.
2. Remove excess water from the soil as quickly as possible. This can be done by placing the pot on a pack of napkins, newspapers, or on dry sand.
3. Also, an emergency transplant into a new, light and airy soil can solve this problem.
4. Do not water the plant, but just spray with a spray bottle. Until the roots recover from the bay, they cannot fully absorb water from the soil.
5. It makes sense to cut the stalk and put it on rooting. If the plant cannot be saved, the cutting will give life to a new fuchsia.

So, you can save fuchsia from the bay if you eliminate the cause as quickly as possible. And faced with this situation once, you will no longer allow excessive watering of fuchsia, especially in the heat.