How to sheathe an iron door from the outside. Sheathing the house with corrugated board

The ease of installation of many heat-insulating materials and facade systems causes a desire to save money and carry out these works independently, without involving expensive specialists. The most popular among facade cladding materials is metal siding, made on the basis of metal sheets.

Advantages

The main advantages of metal siding are:

• Long service life. Most manufacturers guarantee the service life of their products for 20-25 years without burnout and up to 50 years before through corrosion;
• Lightweight design. Since thin sheets of metal (about 0.5 mm) are used in the manufacture, and protective coatings are applied with a layer calculated in micrometers, then you 1 m 2 is only about 4 kg;
• economy. Due to the use of domestic metal, the creation of an extensive logistics network and the distribution of production facilities throughout Russia, manufacturing companies can offer metal siding cheaper than foreign manufacturers;
• Environmental Safety. Metal panels, unlike PVC, are not only non-flammable, but also do not emit harmful substances during operation;
• Ease of installation. Due to the fact that the metal is not so susceptible to thermal deformation and is not afraid of low temperatures, the installation process is not complicated by the need to control the tightening torque of the fasteners, there is no need to leave special temperature gaps, etc.

Basic rules of work

Metal siding is supplied packed not only in packs, but each sheet is individually wrapped in a special protective film, which must be removed after installation. This film prevents abrasion of surfaces during transportation.

Cutting metal siding must be done only in compliance with safety regulations. Some companies offer the manufacture of panels to the customer's size. This will not only facilitate the installation work, but also relieve you of the need to purchase additional equipment. Moreover, the linear dimensions of the sheets will be observed much more accurately than with manual cutting. This can complicate the preparatory and design stages, but will greatly simplify the installation.

Accessories

For framing and decorating window or door openings, external and internal corners of the building, or for joining panels horizontally, special strips and slats are used. They can be selected both in color with the main panels, and in contrast, to give the facade a certain charm and taste.

Also, depending on the chosen color and shade, it is necessary to choose the color of the fasteners.

All these questions will be helped by sales consultants and measurers, who, using tables of the average number of fasteners, will help to calculate the required number of screws, anchors and seals.

Instructions for finishing a house with metal siding

There are two ways of fastening metal siding: hidden and external:

• When the facade is hidden with metal siding, the fasteners are located on the inside of the panels and are not visible from the facade. Panels for concealed fastening are made to exact geometric dimensions and include cutting and fitting, so this type of metal siding is unique and individual. This increases the cost of work and practically nullifies the possibility of self-assembly of metal panels due to the need for highly qualified workers performing the installation.
• The external method of fastening the siding does not require high qualifications and skills, it is enough to strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations for the installation of the finishing material.

The sequence and technology of metal siding installation

Before starting all work, prepare the walls of the house. Siding is fastened using the frame construction method and does not put forward special requirements for the surface. The main requirements are the absence of fungi, shedding, cracks and destruction. By fixing the frame rails with brackets, it is possible to smooth out uneven walls without additional alignment.

Lathing installation

Installation of siding mainly on a metal profile. This is due not only to durability, but also to the ease of construction. To fix the frame, special brackets are used, which are mounted to the wall of the building with the help of anchors. The length of the brackets is selected depending on the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. After setting the "lighthouse" cords, to obtain a flat plane of the wall, profiles are attached to the brackets using self-tapping screws.

Less commonly, a wooden frame is used for facade systems:

Depending on the linear dimensions of the structure and the distance between the wall and the frame, the required frequency of mounting the brackets is selected. You can calculate the required frequency of fastening to the wall using the installation recommendations of a specific metal profile manufacturer.

Insulation installation

The insulation is mounted in the gaps between the frame in such a way that a solid heat-insulating surface is created without cracks and passes. If foam plastic and its derivatives are used as a heat-insulating material, then the joints of the sheets can be additionally foamed with mounting foam.

Mineral wool mats have the property of swelling and over time they themselves can close small gaps and joints between mats. Also, a feature of cotton materials is hygroscopicity, that is, the absorption and accumulation of moisture during operation.

Moisture significantly reduces the thermal insulation characteristics of the material and increases its weight, increasing the possibility of caking or slipping of the material. Therefore, when using wadded materials, it is imperative to install a vapor barrier. Pay attention to the marking of the vapor barrier so as not to install it inside out, which will lead to the opposite consequences. If foam plastic or its derivatives are chosen as a heat insulator, then the vapor barrier membrane may not be installed. This is due to the fact that the foam does not absorb moisture and acts as a hydro-barrier.

Installation of additional elements and sealant

After fixing the frame, it is necessary to install additional elements:

Video: Exterior window trim with metal slopes

Installation of metal siding

The gaps between the additional elements are filled with siding panels. The first (lower) row is attached to a special starting plate and fixed with self-tapping screws. After fixing the bottom sheet, the next one is fastened. Panel joints along the length of the wall are mounted overlapping with trimming of the upper groove for fastening to the crate or through the installation of an H-profile (connecting).

Finishing the facade of the house with metal siding is carried out from the bottom up, but there are also some models of panels that can be mounted in the reverse order. Typically, the panels are attached to each other using a special tongue-and-groove type locking device.

Since metal siding is practically not subject to deformation temperature, fastening and tightening must be done without gaps, tightly pressing the panels sheets to the frame.

Video instructions for installing metal siding with your own hands

Price

The cost of installing metal siding in Moscow and the Moscow region is 550-650 rubles per sq.m., without insulation and 750-850 rubles with insulation. This price for the installation of metal siding includes the installation of panels, all components, ebbs, battens, and when insulating, the installation of a heater, a vapor barrier film. This figure implies professional installation with a written guarantee for work, the availability of all necessary tools (+ scaffolding), direct responsibility for the material (scratched, bent, etc.). The average cost of 1 m 2 of material is 350 rubles.

Conclusion! In general, metal siding is a durable and practical finishing material that protects the walls of a building from the negative effects of external destructive factors and gives the building a presentable appearance.

Suppose you decide to make a steel door with your own hands or want to buy one, but the upholstery of metal doors in the store leaves much to be desired. Don’t be discouraged, it’s not so difficult to sheathe a metal door yourself, and then we will tell you in detail how to sheathe the front door and the slopes to it on both sides, with all the pros and cons of the options that exist today.

The upholstery of the entrance metal door speaks of the status of the owner of the house.

For those homemade ones who want to surprise their relatives with a high-quality steel door made at home with their own hands, there is a good step-by-step instruction with a detailed video, detailed photos and explanations, you can find it.

First of all, remember that the sheathing of a metal door on the outside and the decorative trim on the inside are not at all the same thing. Even if visually the materials look the same, their characteristics or at least the level of processing are completely different.

After all, do not forget, we are talking about entrance doors, where the outer lining is regularly watered with rain, freezes and roasts in the sun, and from the inside, the finishing of metal doors is in the comfortable conditions of a residential building. By the way, you can learn about the insulation of iron doors with your own hands.

Laminate

Finishing metal doors with laminate flooring has long ceased to be a curiosity. After all, the flooring was originally designed for quite serious loads:

Finishing an iron door with laminate flooring is a good and inexpensive option.

• It will not be difficult to wash an iron door finished with a whitewash laminate, to clean it from dirt or footprints, because this coating is subjected to even greater tests on the floor;
• Any laminate can easily withstand the claws of pets, even a large dog is not able to scratch such a coating;
• A big plus in terms of design is the same finish of the floor, slopes and door leaf;
• The thickness of the planks ranges from 6 to 12 mm, the weight of the cladding is also not large, which is an additional plus when choosing;
• The planks are connected according to the thorn-groove principle, and after splicing they form a smooth monolithic surface, in which even the seams are palpable with difficulty;
• To fix it on the canvas, it is enough to clean and prime the steel sheet, after which you can safely glue the planks, for example, on liquid nails;
• If the doors are not sheathed from the inside with a solid steel sheet, then the laminate planks are attached to the bars of the inner crate, and in order to hide the hard-hitting cut and self-tapping screws, a plastic U-shaped profile is glued along the edge.

Finishing the door from the inside with a floor laminate for an amateur is quite realistic.

Now let's move on to the "pitfalls" there are also enough of them here. Let's start with the fact that the floor laminate, no matter how expensive and elegant, was originally created as an internal coating, which means that it is not designed for sudden changes in temperature, frost and excessive humidity.

Accordingly, they can only finish the doors from the inside. Exterior decoration is possible only in multi-storey buildings with relatively warm entrances.

If you decide to opt for a laminate, then keep in mind: this material is divided into 7 classes. If the marking starts with 2, then this material is made for apartments and private houses (21,22,23). Everything that starts with a three (31,32,33,34) is designed for commercial organizations, offices and shopping centers.

The classification of floor laminate depends on the level of wear resistance.

When buying, you do not need to listen to the persuasions of the consultant. The fact is that visually grades 21 and 34 may not differ in any way, and if you are not going to dance on your doors or wash them with a fire hose, then take the twenty-first grade, and the thinnest strips (6 mm), the price will please you.

MDF panels

MDF panels are solid large door linings; professionals call these panels cards. Now the upholstery of a metal door with such cards occupies almost half of the market.

Finishing metal entrance doors with MDF panels is now considered the most popular.

The material itself is made from wood dust and, according to the manufacturers, does not contain any harmful additives. Wood dust is poured into molds, pressed and fried under high pressure, as a result, natural glue lignin is released from it, which turns the pressed mass into a monolithic sheet.

Before sheathing the canvas, you need to decide which panel you want to see. Sheathing the entrance metal door can be pure MDF, laminated or veneered.

To be honest, clean MDF sheets are not suitable for ennobling the door leaf. The top layer of the sheet is practically not protected, its appearance is rather mediocre and the maximum that can be done is to paint it with something, while you will not achieve special beauty.

There is an important point here, it is better to forget about such a common material as chipboard right away, you should not even think about how to finish a metal door with chipboard sheets. This material is not suitable for either external or internal cladding of entrance doors, the sheet will begin to exfoliate in a year.

The most common is laminated MDF, such cards have quite a few advantages:

• The laminated MDF card is resistant to fading;
• Finishing a metal door with your own hands will not be difficult for you, and both exterior and interior decoration are equally simple;
• For finishing work you need a minimum of tools. If you veneer only the door leaf, without slopes, then a drill and a screwdriver are enough;
• Washing an MDF card from stains and other troubles is as easy as a floor laminate;
• The door lining does not require additional adjustment and refinement, the product is immediately sold with fixed dimensions according to door standards. If your canvas is not standard, then you can use several small cards or order a panel according to your size;
• In serial factory doors, MDF panels are inserted into special grooves, so before you disassemble the old door, see if you have such grooves. The principle is simple, the side clip is removed, after which the old panel is moved to the side and pulled out, and the new one is inserted into its place.

When choosing a new MDF “shirt” for your doors, keep in mind that interior decoration can be done with any panels, and outside doors can only be lined with a special MDF panel. The back side of the outer cards is green, while the inner side is yellow. The result of such an error is shown in the photo below.

The result of an incorrect choice of MDF cards.

In the elite sector, MDF panels covered with natural wood veneer are used to finish the entrance doors. Veneer is a thin slice of wood, so if you paste over an MDF panel with it, then it will not differ in any way from a natural board.

It turns out that for reasonable money you will make yourself elite wooden doors, for example, from oak. Of course, a veneered card is not cheap, but compared to a natural array, the difference will be at least 2 times.

But there is a small but significant subtlety here: if you want to get really natural veneer, then look among domestic or Belarusian manufacturers.

Veneered MDF panels are practically no different from natural wood.

Most European companies produce cards covered with so-called eco veneer. If you do not go into details and brush off the advertising tinsel, then eco veneer is just high-quality plastic, which contains a certain percentage of wood.

There is also a veneer under the tricky name "Fine-line". So, if you are offered, for example, a Golden Oak veneered panel made using fine-line technology, then you should know that cunning manufacturers took inexpensive poplar or linden, cut the veneer from it, and after painting and processing, this veneer suddenly became gold oak.

About the same story with multi-veneer, but it can be seen with the naked eye. The drawing there is quite abstract, cubes, waves, mugs and a lot of other options, but this is natural wood, only pressed, glued and cut, here it’s already an amateur.

Leather upholstery

For many people, quilted door trim is associated with Soviet design. Indeed, if you take cheap leatherette and upholster the doors with it, then the view will not be the best, but do not rush to discard this option, with a reasonable approach, quilted upholstery can look luxurious.

Now you will not find doors trimmed with natural soft leather because it is very expensive. For sheathing, a new material called eco-leather is used, this material is a synthetic coating that visually and to the touch is no different from real leather.

In addition to a solid appearance, quilted lining has 2 tangible advantages: firstly, it is additional insulation, and secondly, serious sound insulation. For indoor cats and dogs, though, quilted upholstery is first in line for tearing.

The carriage coupler belongs to the elite finishing of the entrance doors.

The easiest way is to take eco-leather and sheathe a sheet of plywood with it, and use foam rubber as a filler. If you want to get a really luxurious door, then there is a carriage coupler for this, it is more difficult to make it, but the result is worth it.

There are detailed instructions for budget door trim and arranging a luxurious carriage screed with video and step-by-step photos.

If you decide to buy soft panels for doors, then keep in mind: high-quality upholstery is made from solid canvas. If you are offered a quilted panel sewn from pieces, then know that this is a cheap low-quality product.

Powder coating

Powder coating doors can not be done at home with your own hands. This is a high-tech process, the metal is cleaned, processed and a special paint is applied, after which the door is “roasted” in ovens, as a result, the surface acquires a unique protection.

A fine-grained film forms on the metal surface, which is easy to clean and reliably protects doors from corrosion. Manufacturers claim that such lining cannot be scratched, we do not know if these assurances are true, but powder paint withstands animal claws without problems.

Hammer paint is a good alternative to powder coating.

Hammer paint can be a good alternative to powder coating, you can paint doors with your own hands and at the same time the look will be no worse than that of powder coating. You will learn how to correctly disassemble the doors, how to wash the metal from rust, and most importantly, how to paint the doors yourself.

clapboard

Lining for various types of finishes has been used for about 100 years and despite such an advanced age, it is still in the lead. Neat wooden planks are connected using tongue and groove technology. There are quite a few advantages to lining.

• Clapboard can be used for both exterior and interior door trim, although for exterior trim the wood will have to be treated with a complex primer and varnished for outdoor work;
• The material is 100% environmentally friendly;
• Natural wood will never go out of fashion; with proper care, such doors will always look fresh and original;
• The lining installation technology is quite simple and accessible to any home master, we can assure you that even if you have never dealt with lining, during the day you will trim your front door with it;
• The slats can be combined as you like, as a result your door will have an original pattern.

Finishing iron doors with clapboard, novice craftsmen often do not know how to fix the slats on the metal. So from the inside, the lining is hemmed to a pre-fixed wooden crate, which in turn is attached to the stiffeners and the inner frame of the doors.

The outer cladding is prepared separately, first the lining is screwed with small screws to the plywood sheet, and then this shield is attached to the metal sheet. In order to securely fasten the facade shield, a dozen holes will need to be drilled in the metal sheet and screwed on the inside with self-tapping screws.

For those who are going to do everything with their own hands, there is a good instruction that describes in detail how to ennoble the front door in four relatively simple ways, it is located.

By the way, lining is not only wooden, now they produce many options for plastic lining. Theoretically, it is possible to sheathe doors with plastic, but not everyone likes such a lining, plus the strength of the plastic is not high.

A few words about finishing slopes

Slopes are called the part of the wall that frames the doors or windows, respectively, until the slopes are made, the door lining cannot be considered finished. In this case, experts identify 4 running options for facing slopes.

1. Plastering is considered the most reliable and durable. Such a slope will last for more than a dozen years, but not everyone can handle plastering, plus this is a rather dirty process;

Plastering slopes requires certain skills.

1. No less reliable is the sheathing of slopes with drywall. GKL sheets can be either mounted on a crate or glued to a special building mixture, but after installation, drywall must be puttied;

1. Another popular way to finish door slopes is mounting on the crate. Everything is simple, the crate is stuffed on the slope, and already on the crate you can fasten everything you see fit - plastic, MDF, GKL, plywood, lining, etc.

1. But the most popular option now is telescopic slopes made of MDF. They are a kind of constructor. Depending on the thickness of the wall, the width of the additional plank is selected and the entire structure is installed in a couple of hours, the only problem is that telescopic slopes are much more expensive than the others.

You can find out how slopes are made in practice.

Conclusion

The choice of upholstery for metal doors is a responsible matter, because it largely indicates the status of the owner. When making a decision, carefully weigh all the pros and especially the cons of the materials described above and let your door be the most beautiful in the area.

The choice of finishing metal doors is a responsible matter.

The most effective design solution when decorating the interior of a room is a combination of metal and wood. External attractiveness and high strength, a large selection of color and stylistic solutions, a sense of unusual grace and elegance - all this determines the incomparable popularity of metal-wood structures. And how the metal staircase is finished with wood, the article will tell.

Before you decorate a metal staircase with wood, you should familiarize yourself with the features of this design.

These include:

• High strength;
• Possibility of combination with other materials;
• Possibility of making a model of any complexity;
• Attractive price. The cost of construction on a metal frame is slightly more expensive than a similar wooden one.
• Wood trim for metal stairs is made from thinner panels that do not carry any loads;
• No creaking steps. The main supporting structure is a metal frame in which the elements are connected by welding. High-quality welds serve for a long time, while they do not dry out from moisture and do not become loose from the time of use, as happens with wood;
• Possibility of installation in two stages. The installation of a metal frame can be done after the construction of the floor, lay temporary steps from a cheap board and finish the top floor. And wood finishing of an iron staircase can be carried out already at the final stage of home design.

Tip: When deciding to independently sheathe the stairs with wood or MDF panels, it is imperative to prepare the surface, treat the front finish with an antiseptic.

The metal also wears out, it must be carefully cleaned and coated with a composition to protect surfaces from corrosion, especially welds.

At the same time, stairs can be made entirely of metal, without front cladding. But much more often in the design there is only a metal frame, on which boards are easily attached.

Structural sheathing material

Facing a metal staircase with wood can be performed using various types of wood.

The best options for sheathing are products made from:

• Oak, which attracts with high strength and durability, a variety of colors: from pale yellow to red-brown tones;

Tip: Finishing the metal frame of the stairs with oak wood has one feature: after a while, the solid wood darkens a little, acquiring a deep noble color, which should be taken into account when performing work.

• ash tree, in terms of strength, it is not inferior to oak. Wood with a pronounced texture and a noble grayish tint;
• Buka, symbolizing the elegance and sophistication of style. Wood is distinguished by external attractiveness, texture uniformity and durability. Can perfectly imitate mahogany;
• Hornbeam. With proper drying of the tree, it becomes much harder than oak or beech. At the same time, the material remains quite pliable, it is quite easy to work with it;
• conifers. Sheathing of the structure from below can be done mainly with coniferous wood. Cedar or pine do not have high technical performance. Therefore, the material is used only in places where there is no need to use more expensive materials with high performance properties;
• Exotic woods such as wenge, merbau, teak. Incredibly varied color palette. They can vary: lemon yellow tones, rich purples, deep reds, browns and blacks. In addition to color, the finishing of an iron staircase with a tree of such species is distinguished by sufficient strength and a long service life.

If necessary, stain is used to tint wood. In this case, a light type of wood is purchased, it is cheaper than valuable types of wood, and by impregnation it turns into a copy of expensive arrays. How to do this will tell the video in this article.

Tip: Do not use pine for steps. Despite the low cost, availability and pliability during machining, the material is too soft and will not withstand destructive factors from a significant load on the structure.

In addition to natural wood, its analogue is used - MDF sheets. External cladding of panels is made with veneer and its artificial substitutes. The protective film of the material includes several layers of varnish. A good option is to use laminate.

To decorate metal stairs, wood trim is ideal.

Criteria for choosing a metal staircase finish

Wood cladding of a metal staircase is a decorative design of the frame.

Tip: When finishing the structure, you should use materials that can significantly improve its technical characteristics.

Before you trim an iron staircase with wood, a suitable type of wood is selected.

The acquisition of rock for sheathing is influenced by such design parameters as:

• Form of a metal staircase;
• Which contingent will use it;
• Noise isolation design.

The choice of material for sheathing also depends on the room where metal stairs are installed, trimmed with wood - in the living room or hallway.

Steel structure sheathing technology

If you need to finish the metal staircase with wood with your own hands, the video tutorial will tell you how to do it right. The process of carrying out the work does not require specific skills, it can be handled by following all the recommendations of specialists.

So, here is a brief instruction that will help you get the answer to the question: “How to finish a metal staircase with wood?”:

• All wooden parts are attached to a metal staircase. To do this, the elements are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws;
• A wooden tread is installed on the top of the frame;
• The riser is mounted;
• Similarly, such elements are fixed on the remaining steps;

Tip: To increase the safety of movement on the stairs, it is necessary to chamfer all wooden parts installed on the steps.

• Balusters are installed and fixed with studs;
• The remaining parts of the metal structure are veneered;
• Iron staircases lined with wood are treated with an antiseptic, then stained and varnished.

Methods for mounting the sheathing of steps

Before sheathing an iron staircase with wood, you should choose the method of mounting the material.

For sheathing steps, you can use:

• Self-tapping screws and screws. To do this, holes are drilled on the back of the metal part of the step and screws are screwed through them so that they do not show on the front side of the step, but securely hold the wooden plate in place;
• On a wooden frame. On metal structures, this method is used quite rarely - most often to level the surface. Sheathing details are laid on the prepared wooden frame of the steps. Boards can be fixed with self-tapping screws, threaded studs, dowels or sit on glue;
• Steps can be planted on a special glue, but only on a perfectly flat surface.

The preparation of the surface for laying the boards also plays an equally important role. With perfectly even metal elements, the sheathing of an iron staircase with wood can be done after wiping all the parts to be finished with a rag. Additionally, a softening substrate can be laid on the basis of the step.

If there are small distortions, they must be eliminated by the construction of the frame. After that, the steps along the perimeter are sheathed with boards with a thickness of 25 - 50 mm. With a significant width of the steps, transverse bars are added in their center.

External decoration of the stairs

In addition to the sheathing of the steps, the external finishing of the metal frame of the stairs is carried out from the outside of the bowstring, along the previously constructed crate, as seen in the photo.

• This finishing option is not required for stairs made on a central support, where there are no stringers, it is not needed for forged models either.
• To decorate metal with wood from the outside, you should first consider the places for fixing the panels.
• The best options may be the construction of a wooden frame from planks, or an aluminum profile structure, which is used to fix drywall.
• The boards must be positioned so that their edges are in the middle of the frame. The sheathing is fixed on the frame with self-tapping screws.
• Fastener caps, in the future, are smeared with mastic and tinted, sometimes you can limit yourself to glue. The best option is to use metal studs, but this method can not be used for boards of any thickness.

Thus, do-it-yourself wood finishing of a metal staircase is performed, the video shows in detail all the work with all the nuances.

Conclusion

Wood is a noble and durable material, ideal for finishing the house and any structures in it. Fine aesthetic qualities of wood allow transforming the metal frame of the stairs, giving it an elegant look, and creating an atmosphere of warmth and comfort in the room. That is why, metal stairs trimmed with wood are so popular today.

Finishing the entrance group is an easy option to transform its appearance. And this can be done inside or outside. Various methods and materials are used for upholstery. Attaching upholstery to metal is difficult, but possible.

Rough finish

Why is this needed?

The metal sheet does not have the necessary aesthetic qualities, especially for inexpensive models. Their decoration is primitive and not attractive. The first thing a person sees when he comes to visit someone is the door, which is the face of the apartment.

Upholstery will be needed if the appearance is tired or they are already frayed.

This kind of finish is needed for:

1. Door insulation, especially if it is not provided inside the canvas, otherwise it will freeze through.
2. To create a decorative effect. This need arises after the repair.
3. To update the look. The metal door performs its protective functions without having its original appearance.

materials

There are many options for cladding. The choice depends on what kind of aesthetic effect is needed in the end. Also from heat and sound insulating properties. Materials used: MDF, laminate, lining, solid wood, artificial leather.

Assortment of MDF panels

MDF

This material is more often used for sheathing, because it lends itself well to processing, is durable and has excellent aesthetic qualities. This material can be of different types, namely:

1. Painted - this type with metal is rarely used outside, since painted surfaces are not durable. It is permissible to use it for interior decoration of the door;
2. Veneered is a durable finish. Such overlays are made of birch and oak veneer. Less expensive species are used - ash, beech, mahogany.
3. Laminated - has sufficient moisture resistance and safety margin. The surface consists of several layers. The top decorative is a durable PVC film that imitates any structure.

The advantages of MDF overlays are environmental safety, sufficient strength. High level of heat and sound insulation, choice of textures, colors and ease of care.

There are also disadvantages:

1. The price is not always affordable. It's not the most expensive option, but it's not the cheapest either.
2. High humidity, MDF reacts to it in the same way as wood.
3. When using abrasive products, it is easy to damage it.

Laminate

This is the laminate that is used for flooring. Its composition is different than that of laminated MDF, but the margin of safety is no less.

Laminate colors

The material consists of several layers, namely:

• fibreboard;
• layers of paper coated with a special composition;
• wooden base.

These components are arranged in layers, which creates strength. The thickness of the laminate board is 1.2 cm. Advantages:

• exposure to temperature fluctuations;
• durability;
• fade resistance;
• ease of care.

As for the shortcomings, a significant one is the price of a quality laminate. Savings are inappropriate here, since class 1 is designed for short-lived use, although outwardly it looks attractive. Regardless of its technical characteristics, laminate should not be used for facing doors that are in contact with the external environment. It may swell and lose its appearance. The only option when the door can be upholstered with this material both inside and outside is when facing it in the apartment.

clapboard

This type of material is made of wood, although there is also plastic. This does not apply to metal doors. Since the dimensions of the lining are small, the consumer has the opportunity to buy high-quality material for little money.

Wooden lining

Note! Using lining from different types of wood, which means colors and textures, will help create a unique DIY finish. Pieces of lining can be placed at different angles, which will create an attractive pattern.

Faux leather

Faux leather is the most common and understandable version of the skin. Such material familiar to many as dermantin is now practically not used. It was replaced by vinyl leather.

This material, even from a close distance, looks like genuine leather and has similar properties, while the price is several times less. Today, finishing with modern leatherette is a cheap option.

Colored vinyl leather

Material advantages:

1. Affordability, especially when compared with other finishes.
2. Excellent indicators of resistance to a humid environment, temperature changes.
3. Excellent elasticity.
4. It does not require special care.
5. It has wear resistance, heat and sound insulation properties.
6. There is a wide range of colors and textures.

A significant disadvantage is the inability to withstand pets, which will quickly render such upholstery unusable with claws.

Vinyl leather and MDF

solid wood

This material belongs to the elite. Used wood of different species, treated with special compounds to give durability and strength. The advantages include an exclusive look and elegance. This method is environmentally friendly, while there is a large selection of colors and textures. Differs in heat and sound insulation, durable.

Disadvantages: high price, especially for elite varieties of wood. Other disadvantages are the weighting of already heavy metal doors and poor moisture resistance. So, before sheathing metal doors with wood from the outside, you should think about alternative options.

Sound and heat insulation

In order for the sheathing to be not only an attractive decorative element, but also to perform the functions of sound and heat insulation, an insulating material is laid between it and the door leaf. A common solution is the use of foam rubber, but this is not the best option, it has a number of disadvantages. Among them: a short service life and low insulating performance.

Replacement for him - modern material isolon. Sometimes stone wool is used, which allows the doors to breathe. This will prevent condensation from forming on the metal surface.

insulation

Note! To improve the characteristics of a door leaf upholstered with any of the proposed materials, insulating materials are used that are used in the automotive industry. They are convenient, as they are designed for operation on a metal surface, they have an adhesive base, which facilitates installation.

Metal doors eventually need skin repairs regardless of the method. If the damage is serious, only a complete replacement of the upholstery is possible. Pieces of glued material cannot be removed without loss of aesthetics.

Upholstery

There are differences in the finish with leatherette and decorative panels (MDF, laminate, lining). The common thing that unites these methods is that the finishing is done with glue, since it will not work with any other method to attach the upholstery to the metal sheet.

Tools and materials and preparation:

• epoxy adhesive type "Moment";
• hammer;
• pliers;
• stationery knife and scissors;
• screwdriver;
• measurement tools: tape measure, marker;
• power tools: drill, jigsaw, metal screws.

Before sticking to the door, any finish is prepared.

Glue "Moment"

For this you need:

1. Remove the canvas from the hinges and lay it on a horizontal base, 4 strong stools will do.
2. Carry out the dismantling of fittings, including the peephole, hinges, handles.
3. Remove old upholstery, if present.
4. Take measurements of the door leaf.
5. Clean and coat the canvas with a special primer.

Panels

Doors can be easily trimmed with MDF panels. Sequence of work:

1. Degrease the canvas.
2. Apply a primer to ensure that the adhesive adheres to the surface and finish.
3. Apply glue evenly around the perimeter and in the middle.
4. Next, attach and press the overlay. To ensure even fastening, while the glue hardens, you can "grab" the edges with masking tape - it will not leave marks on the surface, but it will fix the position of the panel.
5. If both sides are tiled, then after the glue dries, the other panel is glued in the same way.
6. After drying, the fittings are installed and the canvas is installed in place.

Door leaf made of metal, upholstered in MDF

Laminate and lining

The technology of cladding with these materials is similar. For laminate and lining, a frame is made, on which the finish is stuffed. The frame consists of slats 2x2 or 3x3 cm. They should match the base material in color. Fastened with liquid nails. Next, a lining or laminate is stuffed onto the frame.

Note! The resulting space between the canvas and the finish is filled with insulation. Best options: mineral wool or extruded foam.

The laminate is glued without a frame, similar to MDF panels. In this case, the web is measured, and the material boards are cut to size. After that, they are attached to the glue. In this case, it will not be possible to make additional insulation.

clapboard

Dermantine

Gluing dermantin is easy. Sequence of work:

1. Apply glue to the surface of the door.
2. Glue the selected insulation to it, cut off the excess to fit the door.
3. Measure the canvas and cut a piece of vinyl leather according to the dimensions + 12 cm in width.
4. When upholstering the outer side, the glue is applied to the upper ledge of the fabric from the reverse side. In this case, a bar is used for fixing.
5. Bonding must be uniform, so it is important to level the material over the surface.
6. Pasting moves from top to bottom, work is carried out on the lower end at the final stage.
7. It is important to note that when finishing the door, make sure that the canvases do not overlap each other, they will not hold.
8. After completion of the work, the excess material is cut off, and the fittings crash.

Glued vinyl leather

Conclusion

Finishing is an excellent solution for updating and giving an attractive look to a door leaf that is not always presentable, but durable and reliable.

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There are many men who like to do everything with their own hands, without involving masters in this. For them, it is not a problem to glue the wallpaper and lay the laminate. And what about the door trim?

How to sheathe: materials

There are several upholstery options:

Important! Please note: the weight of a door sheathed with MDF will increase greatly, which will become an additional load on the door hinges.

Foundation Features

Consider the features of the base, that is, the material from which the door is made.

Wooden door

First, let's talk about its most popular types:

1. The lead here is held by an array of pine trees. And all because of the inexpensive cost of the material. True, this does not eliminate its shortcomings: it is rather soft, does not tolerate humidity and strong temperature changes.
2. Another option is walnut. This tree is also quite inexpensive. It has a beautiful structure and ornate patterns. It has many possibilities regarding its processing.
3. For the front door or the door to the bathroom, alder is perfect because it holds moisture well. Plus, it has a low resin content, which is important.
4. The best option is, of course, oak. It is durable, strong, moisture resistant, does not let cold and noise into the room. The surface of such a door is practically not deformed upon impact. But this material is the most expensive.

They also use beech, maple, ash, etc. Therefore, you can choose what suits you specifically (both to your liking and to your pocket) without any problems.
The main advantages of a wooden door:

• environmental friendliness;
• with proper care, it will last for decades;
• high noise and heat insulation.

Flaws:

• requires more care and extreme care in operation;
• some types of wood have low moisture resistance, so they are not suitable for any room.

Important! When buying a wooden door, be sure to contact only a trusted manufacturer! Often, unscrupulous firms, under the guise of an expensive one, sell cheaper, and, accordingly, lower quality material. To do this, they repaint the wood in the desired color. And an inexperienced buyer may simply not notice a fake.

You can sheathe a wooden door in any of the above ways.

Metal (iron) door

Advantages:

• it is believed that it is more reliable (but here you should not forget about high-quality locks!);
• moisture resistance is higher than that of a wooden "brother";
• tolerates temperature fluctuations;
• using seals, you can get high noise and heat insulation;
• does not require special care (although it is also necessary to monitor such a door).

Flaws:

• dents and scratches often appear on a metal door, which spoils its aesthetic appearance;
• rust may occur;
• their strength is sometimes not beneficial, for example, during a fire, it will take a lot of time for rescuers to open it.

For an iron door, any of the materials mentioned earlier is also suitable.

How to sheathe a door

Let's go directly to the sheathing with different materials, learn about all the features of each method.

Laminate

Sheathing step by step instructions:

1. Remove the door from its hinges and place it on a flat surface.
2. Remove all fittings - locks, handles, peephole, etc.
3. Paint the wooden slats in the desired color and fix them around the perimeter of the structure (for metal, liquid nails are needed here).
4. Assemble a shield from laminated panels (make sure: all parts should fit as tightly as possible to each other - butt to butt).
5. Measure the distance between the individual rails and transfer the results to the shield.
6. Saw off the extreme panels in length and width (it is best to do this with a jigsaw).
7. Seal the door tightly with adhesive. Wait for the exposure time of the glue, then put the shield on the canvas and press something heavy on top.
8. When the glue dries, the door can be put in place, and then the fittings can be fixed.

Video: how to sheathe a metal door with a laminate

Important! Use a laminate with a thickness of at least 7-8 mm!

Do not forget about the need to make slopes. They will protect your home from drafts and noise, make the door look more presentable.

The slopes are made with the same laminate that was used for sheathing. But first, eliminate all the gaps between the wall and the casing with mounting foam or special cement (on an adhesive basis). If you chose the foam, when it dries, be sure to cut off all its excess with a knife and only then proceed to the slopes:

• the most common method is gluing the finishing material with a solution. Such a slope will not bend, it will be durable and soundproof;
• if we talk about the decorative slopes, then you can use a special textured plaster or color. True, here it is necessary to pay attention to the peculiarity of the material, for example, to its possible incompatibility (the manufacturer will certainly inform about this on the packaging);
• another design method is frame sheathing with facing material. To do this, you need to make a simple "skeleton" of wooden blocks and a metal profile. Then, using universal self-tapping screws (do not forget about the caps for self-tapping screws that will match the tone of the laminate), attach the laminate to the frame - along or across. Vertical slats must be fixed at the edges and center, and horizontal - only at the edges.

Video: how to make slopes on the front door As mentioned earlier, laminate is best used for apartment doors, and from the inside. It is easy to take care of it - it is enough to wash the skin from time to time with a weak solution of detergent (strong chemicals will ruin the material).

If you still want to use laminate for outside sheathing, use a special waterproof solution and anti-vandal impregnation. Proper care will extend the life of this material by more than one year.

clapboard

Before starting work, consider one point: to install the lining from the inside, she needs to lie down in the house for at least a day so that she gets used to the microclimate.

1. Treat the slats with an antiseptic and open with varnish.
2. Remove the door from its hinges, clean it, remove all fittings.
3. Cut the slats to size (depending on the installation method).
4. Start laying from the left edge. Install the first panel clearly along the edge (this can be checked with a level). Attach it with finishing nails.
5. Dock each lamella into the groove of the previous one, fasten in the same way. Sand the ends.
6. Once again, open the product with varnish and, after it dries, put the accessories back.
7. Return the canvas to the opening.

If you have a metal door, here is a slightly different algorithm of actions:

1. If possible, remove it from the hinges, so it will be more convenient to work.
2. Remove accessories, clean the canvas.
3. You can fix the slats with clamps by screwing them with metal screws using a screwdriver.
4. If you are going to insulate the doors, install a crate of wooden slats. Fix the frame with self-tapping screws. Cut the heat insulator (foam rubber, polystyrene) to size and place between the slats in the spacer. If necessary, glue the material to the surface of the canvas. Joint the slats tightly and secure to the crate with finishing nails.

If you regularly use modern wood products for lining, the material will become more refractory and moisture resistant, plus you can prevent it from rotting in this way. All this will provide the material with a long service life - more than a dozen years.

Did you know? There are a lot of colored doors in Ireland, and for a reason. It turns out that the whole reason is ... the love of freedom of the locals. When Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland died in 1901, a decree was issued - as a sign of mourning, all doors must be painted black. The Irish, protesting, painted them in all the colors of the rainbow, but not black.

MDF boards

They are installed both immediately on the surface of the door, and on the existing trim (for example, leatherette). Do not forget to remove all accessories before starting work.

1. Drill holes around the perimeter of the porch (the part of the sash that covers the door frame). Pitch - 20 cm. Diameter - 3 mm.
2. Drill a series of through holes along the perimeter of the door leaf (the pitch and diameter are the same).
3. Fix the inner MDF trim with screws, then the outer one. The length of the screw is a few millimeters less than the thickness of the canvas.
4. Put the hardware back in place.

Such an overlay is considered the most durable among other types of materials. The main thing is to take care of it. And it is not difficult to care for it, just wipe it with a damp soft cloth or sponge (hard brushes or scrapers will definitely not work here). It is not recommended to use chlorine for washing, as well as abrasive products (powders, pastes, etc.). Heavily soiled areas can be wiped with soapy detergent.

Video: how to install MDF board on wooden doors

Leatherette

The tree is sheathed with leatherette in this way:

1. Remove all hardware from the door, remove it, put it on a flat surface.
2. On the facing side, stick a heater (synthetic winterizer, foamed polyethylene, etc.).
3. Nail and stretch the leatherette at the same time, starting from the center of the door.
4. Nail the middle row of nails (from top to bottom), stretching the leatherette well. Nail the other rows in the same way - first to the left of the center row, then to the right.
5. But there is one snag - in turning the edges. On the outer side of the door, special rollers are made, which should cover the gap between the door leaf and the frame. Tuck the leatherette, then with a slight stretch, nail along the edge of the fabric with upholstery nails. Rollers are not needed for the inside - tuck the fabric and nail it.
6. The sheathing looks more interesting if a decorative metal cord or a special thread is pulled between the nails. In this way, you can create any pattern.

There is also another method. It is universal because it is suitable for both wooden and iron doors. Here, for the design of the edges, a special profile is needed, into which the edges of leatherette are tucked. The profile can be glued around the perimeter of the door leaf, or it can be screwed on with small self-tapping screws. It is safer to use both methods. Such a technique guarantees the overlap of the gaps between the canvas and the box, contributes to a conscientious stretch and long-term fixation, and also nicely frames the edges of the skin.

Video: how to sheathe a door with dermantine If you treat the skin with care, then it will last a very long time. Does not require special care. It is enough to wipe it from time to time with a damp soft cloth (it is possible with the addition of degreasing detergents).