Making Speaker Enclosures: An Overview of Materials. Do-it-yourself speaker system What to make speakers from

I want to tell you about the Sony neodymium dynamic heads I purchased, made in Vietnam. The Vietnamese are generally great - they make very high-quality things, I always give preference to them when shopping. Who does not know, neodymium is a magnet that is lightweight and powerful, which is especially important for manufacturers of home acoustics. In voice coils, neodymium is responsible for the transmission of the frequency range, and therefore for the purity of the sound and its saturation. All these qualities are present in my speakers, which cost me only 750 rubles. - the truth on the action, as the last product. The declared peak power of these 3.5 inch loudspeakers is up to 200 watts :-) In Russia, as far as I know, the power differs from both China and Western manufacturers. However, with a 2 x 50 watt amplifier they work perfectly.

AC design

So, the goal was to make a homemade cabinet for them that would provide maximum bass transmission and differ in minimum dimensions, so all these abstruse Internet programs for calculating the speaker cabinet would not suit me.

I designed the speaker cabinet in such a way that the sound bounces off the cabinet wall and then off the magnet and exits through a fairly large bass reflex.

Believe it or not, the bass is quite impressive at this size (h,w,d - 115 x 115 x 130 mm.). In order to avoid the unnecessary effect of "knocking on a piece of wood", I glued the inner walls of the case with mineral wool.

After everything was done, it remained to attach the legs to the new speakers, and since they are homemade, I also decided to make the legs myself, and not buy them.

I made oval-shaped recesses in the plasticine, filled it with epoxy glue and, after hardening, leveled it with a file in height. I thought to put an LED in each leg - it would be very unusual, but these are an extra pair of wires, in general, I didn’t.

These speakers serve as computer speakers for me, but they can be used as rear speakers in a cinema or if put together (they fit perfectly in size) - you get a front speaker. That's all, see what happened in the photo. Especially for - Valery K.

Discuss the article SIMPLE HOME-MADE ACOUSTIC SPEAKERS

Today I will tell you, dear Durkovites, how to make with your own hands something that costs a lot of money in a store. That is, a good speaker system. I remember how I posted here about the S-30, and from that moment I began to make a similar speaker of my own from scratch.

To begin with, when I found this pair of S-30s in a shed at the dacha, I was almost stunned - not only were they different (one s-30B and the other S-30A), but another one had a broken body. The second one was not inside the filter, someone had already removed it before me. There was no point in doing restyling - they are too different, and I didn’t know how to restore the half-rotten body. And why, when you can re-make 2 identical ones. The woofers, GDN-25, are in perfect condition, but it is better to install new tweeters. Well, let's start.
Part one. Columns.

I didn’t think about the material for a long time - there were walls from some sort of soviet sideboard (chipboard 16 mm), and with holes. We hammer holes with dowels on pva. Next, cut to size. Oh yes, the most important thing is the size. I took approximately the same dimensions as the original S-30, only slightly changed the shape. But the phase inverter had to be calculated in SpeakerShop "e. I took it with a margin of 50 mm. We twist the case with self-tapping screws, this is still a fitting.

We disassemble, smear with glue, collect. We glue the glazing beads into the corners for greater strength:






Now we dampen everything with linoleum, the shaggy side inward:






We collect completely.








Now that everything is working for us and it doesn’t whistle anywhere, we can putty.




Well, now the most dreary and dusty sanding ...


After a couple of hours, something even and velvety is obtained. Can be glued. At first I wanted a black self-adhesive under a tree, but in our, sorry, Muhosransk, it didn’t turn out. But how nice it is to have friends in other cities! A month later, of course, I will have it, but for now I will have to paste over it with what I have. roughly like this:








In order not to mess with the style of the front panel, we make a black acoustic grill. (It’s better to make it from acoustic fabric, but if the budget is tight, you can get by with women’s black tights, you can’t distinguish them by appearance. The most important thing is to ask your girlfriend / girlfriend / mother for permission to take these very tights. Sometimes they cost many times more than the acoustic fabric itself so be careful ;)










It turns out no worse than bought, it seems to me:




While I was making the amp (more on that later), they brought me a self-adhesive. My joy knew no bounds!





And now the most important thing - do not save on connectors! I first bought Chinese for 15 rubles, and was very disappointed. They make very unpleasant sounds at low frequencies, don’t do anything with them. Therefore, I bought some branded ones, with gold-plated contacts. Believe me, this greatly affects the sound. The extra $300 is worth it.


Now we put the tweeter. I bought automobiles, I didn’t find normal ones with us, dug out the speakers themselves from the case, put them in a hollowed-out recess on a pva-based putty.


Well, and most importantly, because. the domes on the woofers had to be removed because of their rattle, I made new ones, with their initials :)

Needless to say, the sound turned out no worse than the branded speakers of the famous audiophile trends.

Part two. Amplifier.
The speakers turned out like the original, 30 watts each - 25 watts of LF and 5 watts of HF, (although according to the documents it is written that these tweeters are 60 watts each, it’s more expensive for the Chinese to believe in themselves. The sound is no more than 5 watts) At first I had an amplifier-collected a year ago from the AT power supply and mikruhi TDA1558Q. But firstly, there are only 44 watts, and secondly, this mikruha draws basses rather weakly. I did not think about the choice of the Microcircuit for a long time - TDA 8560Q. Similar to the previous one, only the output is up to 80 watts, + the signal quality is higher and there is less distortion. I immediately warn beginners - it’s better not to collect anything on 8560, it’s very capricious. But if the hands grow from where they need to, then you get a wonderful amplifier. While I was collecting my own, I burned two pieces. And they cost about 150 rubles a piece, which money I feel sorry for, so I honed my stock of obscene language well. The body will be made of one-sided foil fiberglass. Convenient, lightweight, and does not conduct current where it is not needed. And it is also a wonderful mass, screen and antenna (if you connect a phone with a radio)


We mark, cut with a jigsaw, drill the necessary holes:

I could not resist and tried on future connectors :)


We skin the places of soldering, we play.


We heat the tinned places with a soldering iron - and everything seizes wonderfully:




Now we putty all the cracks and joints with auto-putty. After a day, we boldly skin and polish.






Let's try the stuffing:




Everything works, you can paint. We paint with glossy black paint, after which we skin the defects.




And now the main highlight is aluminum inserts. A parody of expensive amplifiers, similar to protective steel corners. We cut out a 3mm aluminum sheet, bend it to the shape of the front panel, give it a texture with sandpaper, and screw it with hex bolts (namely, bolts, this is also part of the design). Looks cute:


We remove all props and take out the filling. We paint normally:




It turned out here is such a small wonderful case:

Now about the stuffing. Mikruha Tda8560 on a radiator from the 300th Celeron, a transformer (which is 40 years old, no less, but gives out about 15A and 12V), a diode bridge of about 12A and 3 capacitors: 4700uF, 2200uF and 0.47uF connected in parallel. Two conders at the signal inputs of the mikruha, 0.05 microfarads each (also Soviet, much better than the Chinese ones), and a 50 kOhm input dual variable resistor. .






And so that the 2-kilogram transformer does not warp the case, we strengthen it with two corners and a steel plate at the base, on which everything is actually attached.


Now we make the bottom from the same textolite and legs from a nickel-plated furniture tube:

It looks good next to my system unit, the same blue backlight (unfortunately, the computer is turned off in the photo):

Part three. The final.

Here everything is assembled and works great. In total, it took me about three months. And I’ll say right away that there are only a third of the photos here, the rest show what went wrong with me, after all, this is my first project with such accuracy and such a high-quality study of every little thing.

P.S. I'm in the 10th grade, and this is supposedly my project for a regional technology olympiad, where, by the way, I took first place 3 days ago.

Happy modding! Sincerely yours, Viktor Sarbaev.

Assembling a speaker at home is not such a difficult task as many might think. Having the necessary materials and information, you can not only get a good and high-quality speaker with a clear sound, but also save a decent amount of money.

First you need to buy or make your own sound amplifier.

How to make a homemade speaker amplifier

This is a very simple way to assemble an audio amplifier. Absolutely everyone can assemble such an amplifier without much effort.

Necessary materials

Crown connector;
Crown at 9 Volts;
Speaker for 1 watt with a resistance of 8 kOhm;
3.5 mm mini-jack;
10 kΩ resistor
Switch;
Chip LM386;
Capacitor for 10 Volts and 220 microfarads;
Soldering iron.

Manufacturing

Step 1

Place the chip on the table. In order not to confuse the sides and correctly solder all the wires to the microcircuit, you need to pay attention to the hole on one of the sides of the microcircuit. This hole must be positioned away from you, as shown in the image:

Step 3

It is necessary to solder the positive contact of the connector to the second contact of the switch.

Step 4

The fifth "foot" of the microcircuit must be soldered to the positive contact of the capacitor.

Step 5

Connect the remaining capacitor terminal with a soldering iron and a cord to the positive terminal of the speaker.

Step 6

Having made a jumper, as shown in the picture, you need to solder the negative contact of the speaker with pins 2 and 4 of the microcircuit.

Step 7

Solder a resistor to the third contact of the microcircuit.

Step 8

Disassemble the mini-jack, connect the left channel to the right one and solder to the remaining channel of the resistor through the wiring.

Step 9

Connect the "minus" of the mini-jack to the "minus" of the speaker using a wire and a soldering iron.

Step 10

Solder the negative wire of the connector to the negative terminal of the speaker.

Step 11

The speaker for the future column is made! Now it remains only to test. If the speaker does not work, then it is worth reviewing the previous paragraphs to correct errors.

Column Assembly

Now let's start making the column itself.

Necessary materials

Polypropylene pipe, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the column or slightly larger;
DVD or CD;
Drill;
hot glue;
Scissors;
Drill or screwdriver with nozzles for drilling;
Sandpaper;

Manufacturing

Step 1

Cut the pipe, leaving a slight bulge for the connector. Before you start cutting, you need to mark this bulge on the pipe according to the size of the connector itself.

Step 2

Draw a circle on the disc in the center using polypropylene tubing. This circle must be cut with scissors and align the edges with a drill. Using scissors on the disk, make two small indentations not far from each other for the wires.

Step 3

Insert the amplifier into the tube. If necessary, carefully fix with hot glue from the inside.

Step 4

Drill a hole for the switch above the bulge, equal in size to the switch itself or slightly smaller.

Step 5

You need to unsolder the wires from the switch in advance in order to put the wires into this hole, and then solder them back. Then insert the switch into the hole. If necessary, fix with hot glue from the inside.

Good afternoon lovers of good sound! Today I will introduce you to Fedor Gartsuev and his very interesting Suono project. An interesting step-by-step production of acoustics with your own hands, as a result, very high-class acoustic systems turned out!

The idea to create something unusual that no one else would have, my brother and I had a long time ago. The love for true music left no doubts that it would be acoustic systems made by one's own hands. While studying at the university, there were even trial versions in the form of two-way "pillars" based on speakers from and a Chinese "tweeter". Then invaluable experience was gained in working with wood, there was also an understanding of what could be done and what would have to be tinkered with, it became necessary to purchase a tool. We are well aware of the importance of careful calculation of all parameters of acoustics and sound settings. At that moment, we could not afford any of this, so the implementation of the plan was postponed indefinitely ...

And last summer, free time appeared, we decided to realize our plans, to make acoustics with our own hands. We started working on the project. I didn’t want to make standard parallelepipeds, there was an idea to “tear” some eminent brand. I really liked Sonus Faber Stradivari, Aida, Jamo Epicon 8, but in each one something did not suit me, then my brother (later, they nevertheless found very interesting solutions). We went through a lot of options (see picture), and in the end we came up with a project that suited both of them (later it was corrected for the speakers we bought).

After reading the literature and thematic sites, analyzing the design of Hi-End class acoustics, as well as being guided by logic, they also came to the conclusions by their own intuition: the design of the cabinets must meet the following requirements:

1. Prevent standing waves inside the column.

2. Do not create sound distortion caused by resonances and re-reflection of sound waves in acoustics.

To ensure the first condition, the back panel was made narrow, the lack of parallel surfaces also contributes to this, and at the same time creates the effect of "endless space". But the column needs volume, so the front panel turned out to be quite wide. Most companies try to make the speaker as narrow as possible, but acoustics with a wide front panel sound more.

To ensure the second condition, the panel was broken at angles of 7.5 and 15 degrees to the radiation plane
speakers. Concave side surfaces, not a single plane perpendicular to each other or to the wave propagation front, all this serves the same purpose - achieving, if not Hi-End, then at least good Hi-Fi. Two phase inverters are installed at the back, however, they do not serve to resonantly amplify low frequencies, but to equalize the pressure inside the column and are tuned to other frequencies so that they do not “whistle” when air passes - they put two on each column. The cabinet is mounted on four copper spikes, and the stand itself stands on three steel supports with plastic lining, with the ability to adjust the height and angle of inclination, all this is done so that the vibration of the speakers is not transmitted to the supporting surface. Seen from above, AC reminiscent of a Soviet mouthpiece. Bulkheads are installed inside for rigidity and to give the side surfaces the desired bending radius. The edges of the front and back panels are rounded. It was also planned to glue the sides with veneer for aesthetics.

Work began with the selection of speakers. Break a bunch of sites, settled on Polish speakers Alphard. We found their representative office in Minsk, from which everything necessary was purchased, in addition, it turned out that the company was engaged in the manufacture of professional speakers and could provide assistance in the project. Looking ahead, I’ll say that we entrusted them with the calculation and manufacture of crossovers, as well as the final fine-tuning of the sound, which saved a lot of time and money. And themselves on the hulls.

Two sheets of plywood 18 mm thick and 9 meters of timber 95 × 35 mm were purchased. Plywood was lined, cut into the necessary parts. Straight lines were cut with a circular saw according to the rule, and curved lines were cut with a milling cutter (in passing, a compass was made for the milling cutter with the ability to set the radius from 300 to 1500 mm). I’ll make a reservation right away: cutting 18 mm plywood with a milling cutter is a bad idea, it’s better to cut the workpiece with an electric jigsaw with an indent of 2-3 mm and bring the shape with a cutter, the surface will be cleaner. Complex details were printed on whatman paper at a scale of 1:1 and made something like templates. For manufacturing details took about a month, unfortunately, this process was not photographed. After processing all the details, they assembled:

They assembled everything with the help of corners, self-tapping screws and carpentry glue.

In the photo above, holes for speakers, phase inverters and acoustic terminals have already been cut. To dampen any possible resonances and overtones, it was decided to lay out the inner surfaces with batting: they cut it with a knife on paper, fixed it with a stapler. Immediately, in the lower cavity, they installed.

After long mockery of plywood 18 mm thick, it was not possible to bend it with the desired radius. Therefore, it was decided to build the thickness of the side panels from three layers of plywood thinner. Each layer was screwed to the spacers with self-tapping screws and smeared with wood glue to glue them together. The joints of all panels were lubricated with sealant from the inside. The gap between the panels in the photo is not crappy build quality. The screws had to be loosened, otherwise the side panels would not fit. The top caps are rolled by the bypass cutter straight over the column.

Final fitting and assembly of some elements:

After the main part of the hulls was assembled, we started grinding, puttying, grinding again ... and so on until smooth, even surfaces were obtained. It took us two jars of putty and a set of grinding wheels. There was a lot of dust.

After everything was sanded, we started pasting the speakers with veneer. The main color of the speakers is black gloss, contrasting veneer patterns were intended to dilute this “blackness” and give a more aesthetic look. An experienced eye will immediately recognize the Jamo Epicon 8. The veneer was cut according to patterns from whatman paper, with a knife on paper. If the veneer is thick (we had a thickness of 0.6 mm), then you don’t need to try to cut it off immediately to the full depth - it’s big that it will burst.

This is not described in the instructions for the glue that was bought along with the veneer, but from my experience I will say: it is better to apply the glue on the surface, and not on the veneer, and let it stand for about three minutes. It is better to protect the surfaces around the pasting area with masking tape - the glue “warps” the plywood - these places will then have to be sanded, and the paint does not want to stick in these places at all.

While the glue dries, it is advisable to periodically roll the veneer with a roller, as it gets soaked from the glue, air cavities form under it, if they are not immediately removed, then it will be very problematic to eliminate them.

After the glue has dried, the veneer can be sanded. Left before sanding, right after. It doesn’t look very beautiful right away, but after applying varnish or stain, everything changes.

For lack of another room, they painted on the balcony. Before painting, the balcony was thoroughly washed and hung with cellophane to prevent dust from entering the painting area. The cases were “vacuumed” and wiped with a lint-free cloth (sold in car dealerships). It is not necessary to wipe with a damp cloth - the veneer is very afraid of liquids, it begins to delaminate. To prevent paint from getting on the veneer, it was covered with masking tape. Since the surfaces are large, it is better to stick the tape only along the edges, and fill sheets of paper cut out in shape under it.

Acrylic was chosen as the paint, applied.

The first layer will reveal all the imperfections of the wood (scratches, dimples, gaps) that were made during sanding. Everything that has appeared is cleaned, puttied, polished.

After that, several more layers of paint are applied. After the paint dries, the masking tape is removed, which was probably the most pleasant moment in all four months. There was an idea to cover the veneer with mahogany wood stain, but it looked gloomy on the test board, so we decided to leave it as it is.

We paint the strips (we left gaps between the strips of veneer 2 mm), limiting them with masking tape:

Let's name it. To do this, we come up with a beautiful word or phrase, we borrowed the name from the Italian language. We put the name on a special film, using plotter cutting, such a service is available everywhere and is inexpensive. We glue the film (it is self-adhesive) on the surface and apply paint, we used the car in a can.

After the paint has dried, remove the film and get a beautiful inscription:

We glue a plate with the characteristics of the speakers on the back panel; we screw the bottom stand and footrests, nothing complicated here, simple mechanical assembly. We cover everything with varnish from the same spray gun. The veneer acquired a yellowish tint, gloss appeared on the paint.

We clog the phase inverters, it is necessary to beat more carefully, we still broke one, we had to buy more b. We solder the acoustic terminals, put them on the sealant and screw them on.

Solder and install speakers. It is worth noting that on the inside of the speakers along the edge, we glued rubber tubes to prevent air from “walking” through possible gaps.

This is the final step. We put the speakers on the floor; check the impedance with a multimeter, connect the amplifier ...

First audition. It was the most long-awaited and exciting event - the result of four months of work. I won't say that the sound has reached the High-End level (although I don't even know how it should sound), but it didn't disappoint either.

Compared with existing Sony SS-F6000. At first, the sound seemed (the ears got used to a different sound), but after a week of listening, it began to seem the only right one. The sound is more "adult" compared to the "disco-pop" sound of Sony. The bass is not as powerful, but more collected, without boominess. Each tool is in its place, has its own weight, is clearly distinguishable, does not stick out and does not hide. Even at maximum volume, the music does not merge into one continuous roar. I can’t say anything about it: there is nowhere and nothing to measure the characteristics.

Speakers Alphard WH656, Alphard WH506, Alphard TW-317, woofer, mid and tweeter, respectively.

Few numbers:

1. The speakers cost $400, of which $270 went to speakers and crossovers.
2. Maximum power 300W.
3. Impedance 4 ohm.
4. The total weight of one column is 38 kg.

Dimensions 1135×370×315mm

On my own behalf and on behalf of numerous fans of the Zvukomania website, I would like to express and wish great creative success to Fedor Gartsuev!

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Do not be afraid to remake the equipment, look for your own !!!

I hope the article was interesting and helped someone. Please leave comments below so I can get back to you. Don't be afraid to join me

Hello to all DIYers! Somehow passing by the construction of an apartment building, I saw gas workers laying a plastic gas pipe d-225 mm. The idea came to make acoustic systems with it. I asked the builders, they cut me 2 pieces with bevels 70 cm long.

I sawed circles (bottom AC) d-225 mm from chipboard, screwed it with black self-tapping screws (8 pcs), onto glue.

From 10 mm plywood I sawed out ovals for the speakers, also fixed them with self-tapping screws.

On the back side of the housing of the future speaker system, I drilled holes for the clamps for the wires.

I puttied the places where I screwed the screws, cleaned the putty places and the pipe itself with sandpaper, degreased everything with acetone and began to glue the fabric.

Carpet is glued with "Moment" in small sections with a stretch around the circumference. After gluing inside the pipe, the joints were smeared with sealant. I soldered the wires to the connector and screwed them to the case, on the other hand to the speaker.

The speaker was also fixed to the plywood with self-tapping screws, and the mesh was fixed.

That's all - good compact home speakers are ready. Of course, this is not a branded JBL, but with a good amplifier it plays well.

Video - homemade speakers from car speakers

By changing the diameter and length of the body, you can achieve a different character of the sound. Since initially all these calculations are difficult to carry out - just take more to maximize the bass. Bye everyone! was with you Ivchenko Alexey Novorossiysk.

Discuss the article HOW TO MAKE A SPEAKER FROM A SPEAKER