DIY clamp press. Do-it-yourself clamp - how to make a quick-release device from metal and wood

A do-it-yourself clamp is made according to a pre-prepared pattern. The tool is presented in the form of a clamp, which is used to fix various parts. Carpenter's clamps are used for sawing, spreading saw teeth or sharpening them.

A quick-release clamp is a type of hand vice that is used to firmly secure workpieces or parts.

Principle of operation

A quick-release clamp is a type of hand vice that is used to firmly secure workpieces or parts. The main elements of the device include the frame, moving part, lips, and valve. Experts recommend making tools from iron.

The quick-release tool can be locked using one hand. The object is inserted between the jaws, pressing it with the movable system. Then the product is fixed with a valve. Experts include the following advantages of the design under consideration:

• light weight;
• ability to fix large parts;
• high strength;
• transportation;
• fast completion of work.

A quick-release clamp is used for release. To do this, you will need to dismantle the stops and lips, turning the last elements over. Using this tool you can process glass.

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Components

Do-it-yourself clamps made from light metal quickly fail. The parameters of such units do not exceed 2 m. To press the dimensional sheets of plywood, you will need to make a sliding homemade clamp.

Experts include the following components of the design:

• frame;
• clamping jaws;
• movable part;
• lever component.

The movable design changes the pitch between the jaws using threads. From a constructive point of view, the lever device consists of levers and eccentrics. This tool is difficult to make at home.

To make a wooden clamp, use a diagram and the following tools:

• threaded studs;
• slats;
• nuts;
• plywood.

The length of the studs should be 120 and 200 mm, and the diameter should be 5 mm. The size of the plywood boards is 15x150x200 mm, and the parameters of 2 slats are 20x40x240 mm.

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Step-by-step instruction

The production of homemade clamps involves the use of wooden blocks made from oak, beech, birch or ash. Such tools are fixed to the working surface. In the bars with which the clamping part is attached, 2 holes are made. This technology ensures tight fixation of the nut with the stud.

To obtain a stable and reliable structure, it is recommended to place the bottom bar flat.

The next step is to install the plywood boards. A block is attached to them. The bottom edge of the plywood must be positioned 3 cm below the block. The blanks are drilled. Pins are inserted into the resulting holes.

Plywood is used as a clamping element. Such clamps grip parts with a movable strip. The tool is fixed to the surface of the tabletop using short pins. Long analogues determine the working stroke of the clamp. Nuts are a lever that secures a moving element by adjusting the clamping force.

A homemade clamp for welding can be made from a hacksaw, 2 threaded rods and a nut. The last elements are inserted into the clamp connectors. The nuts are put on from the inside of the device. The resulting tool has 2 standard sizes. To prevent the body from breaking into 2 parts, the folding element is wrapped with electrical tape. The versatility of the resulting device lies in the possibility of turning it back into a hacksaw. Steel fasteners are used to secure the sliding structure of the tool. It is not recommended to use a homemade clamp to the limit of its capabilities. Otherwise, it will quickly fail. The universal clamp is made from a channel.

Its length depends on the maximum dimensions of the material being processed. The thickness of the channel is selected taking into account the frequency of use of the future tool. Places for holes for bolts are placed along the axis of the channel. The last fasteners are welded to the thrust structure. The holes are cut with a welding machine. To achieve a tight fit of the stop, the nest is made in the form of a drop. A bolt is welded to the channel. The size of its head must correspond to the diameter of the socket.

Once I needed to clamp a part, when sawing off a part from it, how to do this without a vice was not particularly clear, in the end I decided that I needed to make some kind of device, namely a clamp, my parts, as usual, were made of good old parquet. This homemade product will help us not only replenish our collection of tools, but also save some money.

But before you start reading, I suggest you watch the video, where I showed in detail the entire manufacturing process.

In order to make a homemade wooden clamp, you will need:
* Parquet, you can use any sufficiently strong boards
* Threaded rod M6
* Two M6 nuts and washers for them
* Electric drill
* Two 8mm hex head screws
* Sandpaper
* File
* Chisel
* Hacksaw for metal

That's all that is needed to assemble the homemade product.

Step one.
First, you need to decide on the material; after all, the loads on this homemade product will be very large, so the material must have a margin of strength. I chose oak parquet because it is durable enough for such purposes, and it was the first thing that came to hand. I decided to make a small clamp, since I rarely deal with large parts. Next, I sawed off a strip of about 2 cm wide from this parquet; I decided that this would be enough, given that the length does not exceed 25 cm.

If your clamp is longer than 25 cm, I strongly recommend using a board with a larger width or choosing a stronger material than wood. You should also pay attention to the fact that it is best to saw with fine-toothed saws; in such cases, I usually cut with a hacksaw; cutting after it requires almost no grinding.

Lightly sand the part by hand; there is no point in polishing the part, since this is a future working tool.

Step two.
After the main part is ready, we proceed to the lower fixed jaw. I cut it out with the same hacksaw.

Then I drilled four holes along the edges using an electric drill with a 3 mm drill, after which I selected the material with a chisel and trimmed the hole with a file. As a result, I got a rectangular hole into which the previous part fits tightly.

For reliability, it should be glued to PVA.

Step three.
Well, the homemade product is almost ready, all that remains is to make a movable sponge. By the way, making it is a little more difficult. The part consists of the same piece of parquet, which I also drilled with a drill and selected a rectangle inside to put on the base.

The difference between the design of a movable jaw and a fixed one is that it has an eccentric, which allows you to clamp the necessary part, the dimensions of which can vary at certain intervals. In the upper jaw we make a rectangular hole for the movable eccentric, I also cut it out of parquet, the width is 15 mm.

The center offset should not be strong, but also not be very small, otherwise the part will not hold tightly, which is not good in the case of a clamp.

Step four.
You need to drill a hole in the movable jaw and eccentric with a 4 mm drill.

After this, we install the eccentric using a stud with an M4 thread, having previously placed one washer on each side. I do not recommend tightening the nuts too tightly, as this may damage the sponge itself.

The principle of operation of such a clamp is that when the eccentric is rotated, its displacement rests against the part, which entails a skew of the movable jaw, as a result of which it jams, thereby holding the part being clamped.

Step five.
There's more to come with the top jaw; I screwed a small piece of parquet to it, which will serve as an additional support when clamping the part. I sawed off a small piece of the same oak parquet, then drilled two holes along the edges. Next, I screwed it onto two self-tapping screws with a head for a hex wrench.

Hi all brainiacs! In today's project we will make with your own hands wooden clamp.

All elements used are of standard size and can be enlarged to produce larger clamps. This will give you a set of several clamps!

You may not have any special equipment like I do - don't worry about that! Almost any problem can be solved in one way or another, any craft can be improved. I made 3 prototypes before getting the perfect clamp for myself. Don't be afraid to experiment and make mistakes!

Step 2: Materials Used

In this project, a set of four clamps is made, but the volume of materials is indicated for one clamp. Just multiply by the number of clamps you require and get the amount of materials you need.

- Hardwood that is 1.9 cm thick and at least 2.5 cm wide (I used pecan wood)
— 1/2 inch steel rod (12mm)
- 1/4 inch pin 20 threads per inch
— 1/2 inch nuts (12mm) x2 pcs.
- 3/32 inch spring pins (2.38mm) 3/4 inch (19mm) long x2 pcs.

You will also need a 1/4" 20 TPI tap for the barrel nuts, and a drill bit for a 13/64" (5mm) tap.

Step 3: Splitting the Wood Piece

The best way I have found to make something is to try to make all the required parts in one operation. So first, cut the material needed for the jaws and handles. The handles are made from a 3/4" by 3/4" (19x19mm) square piece, and the jaws will be 1" by 3/4" (25x19mm).

Step 4: Cutting the Handles

Set your machine to a 33 degree angle to cut the handle blank to the desired shape. You can use a 1/2 inch nut as a spacer to get the thickness you need.

I used my band cutter for this task. Just go around one side, then flip from one side to the other and make a second cut. This will ensure that one side you cut will have a hexagonal shape. Next, trim the second side in the same way.

When finished, move your machine back 90 degrees and cut the handle blank to 2 1/2 inches (64mm) long.

Step 5: Clamp jaw blanks

Now cut off a corner on the jaws. Cut as you wish. I cut my miter a little long and then used it to cut a 15 degree miter on one side for the other pieces.

For those of you who like to use a bevel to cut, consider that the slope of the line (steepness) is 2 inches (50mm) by 2 3/4 inches (70mm). The angle is installed at 1/2" (12mm) spacing or centered in a 1" (25.4mm) piece. I recommend cutting the corner first, then cutting the jaws to 4 inches (102mm). This way there is less chance of making a mistake.

When finished, mark A and B on the jaw halves.

Step 6: Drilling Jaw A

Start with Jaw A. Drill two 1/2" (12mm) holes through one side and two 1/4" (6mm) holes through the top.

The first 1/2" (12mm) diameter hole is located 3/4" (19mm) from the back and is centered in the jaw blank. The second hole is located 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back of jaw A. Two 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes are located in the center of the top of jaw, 3/8" (9.5mm) from each side and intersect with the centers of the 1/2 inch (12mm) diameter holes.

Step 7: Sponge B

Jaw B is slightly different from Jaw A. It does not have the 1/2" (12mm) holes drilled, and the 1/4" (6mm) hole in the back is only 1/2" (12mm) deep.

Place Jaw B in the same manner as Jaw A previously, drill 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes 3/4" (19mm) and 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back. Be careful not to drill the entire passage through the back hole like I did. That's why I labeled the sponges A and B.

Step 8: Threaded Studs

Take a good hacksaw and cut the 1/4" (6mm) threaded rod into the required length. You will need a 4 1/2" (114mm) blank and a 5" (127mm) blank for each clamp you make. Put them aside for now, we will return to them at the stage of making handles.

Step 9: Roll Nuts

Cylinder nuts are drilled round pieces of steel with 90 degree threads inside them.

I made mine by cutting 1/2" (12mm) long stock into 3/4" (19mm) long pieces, then drilled the holes and tapped the threads with a 1/4" (20 thread) tap.

Step 10: Creating Chamfers on the Clamp Handles

All handles will have a chamfer on one end. This makes them more attractive, removes sharp edges, and makes them easier to hold in your hand.

If you have strong hands, then use a sharp chisel to create chamfers. Simply clamp the handles as shown in the photo and trim the edges to 1/8 inch (3mm).

Step 11: Continue finishing the handles

In order for the handles to accept a 1/2" nut, they must be cut to a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the nut so that the threads of the nut will engage securely with the wood surface and create a secure connection. This is where a wood lathe would come in handy, but in the absence of one, you will have to do it manually.

Press the fence block against the saw guard and use a 1/2-inch nut to adjust the depth of cut to ensure the desired distance from the fence. Next, take a piece of wood and make the necessary cuts.

As a result, you should end up with a design that looks a little like the Jewish Star of David. After this, cut off the excess protrusions.

Step 12: Handles and Corner Removal

The 1/2 inch nuts will not fit on the handles unless you file the corners on them. At this stage, practice on some unnecessary workpiece, and only after that use a real handle.

Clamp the handles and grind until you get a perfect round shape.
Next, screw the nut onto the tip of the handle. Do this carefully.

Step 13: Finishing the Handles

Thread two 1/4 inch (6mm) nuts onto the threaded rod until it is securely seated in the jig. Next, round off the ends using a metal file so that the handle moves smoothly. Make sure at least one inch of material protrudes from the jig, then screw the wood handle in as far as possible. Use a wrench to tighten to the base and align with the handle. Do not overtighten, lower the nut until it stops, and then align it with the handle.

Finally, you need to insert the pin into the handle. Drill a 3/32-inch (2.38mm) hole in the center of the nut, threaded rod, and tap the pin in with a hammer.

Step 14: Shutdown

Well, that's almost all. You have made all the necessary preparations. Now they need to be put together to get the finished product. We just need to sand the surfaces to remove any sharp edges, edges and apply the finishing coat. This is the most enjoyable simple step to follow.

Put on rubber gloves and rub some drying oil into the surface, then finish the process by waxing the wooden surface and enjoy the result!

I hope you enjoyed this project. You can also upgrade a manufactured clamp to clamp different sized items.

In this article you can find detailed instructions for making a homemade wooden clamp.

This auxiliary tool will be useful for fixing any parts, for example, for processing parts or for holding tightly when gluing several parts together.

In this project, the author decided to make several clamps at once, a kind of set for securing parts of various sizes. But you may not need such a number of clamps, so for simplicity, the volume of materials spent will be indicated per one clamp, and if you want to make exactly the same set as the author’s, then simply multiply the number of materials by four.

Materials used:
- Hardwood wood 1.9 cm thick and at least 2.5 cm wide
- steel rod 12mm
- pin 6 mm 20 turns per 2.5 cm
- inch nuts 12mm 2 pcs.
- inch spring pins 2.38 mm long 19 mm 2 pcs.
- 6 mm tap 20 turns per 2.5 cm for cylindrical nuts
- drill for a 5 mm tap.

Description of the manufacturing process of wooden clamps:

Step one: preparing the wooden parts.

To begin with, the author decided to divide the wooden blank into two parts. The first part should be wider; the jaws of the clamp, measuring 25 by 19 mm, will be made from it. The second part of the workpiece will be square in size with a size of 19 by 19 mm; handles for the clamp will need to be made from it. Separating the initial wooden blank in this way will make it faster and easier to cut the necessary parts.

Step two: Cutting out the handles for the clamp.

At this stage, a band cutting machine was used.

In order to cut the handle blank to the desired shape, the angle on the machine was set to 33 degrees. A 12 mm nut was used as a separator to obtain the required thickness and shape orientation.

Thus, making cuts using a machine, alternately turning the workpiece over, the author cut off layer by layer, obtaining a hexagonal shape of the workpiece, following the example of the used nut.

After the hexagonal shape and optimal thickness were obtained, the machine parameters were switched to a 90-degree cut. Next, the author used the same machine to cut the required number of 64 mm long handles from a hexagonal blank.

Step three: Cutting jaws for the clamp.

Next, the author began processing the second workpiece and cutting jaws for the clamp from it. The angle of inclination on the jaws is not mandatory, it rather serves for greater convenience. Therefore, you can determine the amount of tilt yourself based on your preferences. The author made this part longer, after which he used it to cut an inclined angle for other parts and other workpieces. He considered the tilt angle of 15 degrees to be the most universal.

When using a carpenter's angle, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the slope of the line is 50 mm by 70 mm. The angle should be installed at a distance of 12 mm or centrally in a workpiece with a width of 25.4 mm. With this approach, the author recommends first cutting off the corner and then cutting the jaws for the clamp to a length of 102 mm. These preparatory steps will allow you to reduce the chances of making any mistakes and spoiling the workpiece, which means saving materials and your time.

After finishing cutting the blanks for the clamp jaws, the author divided them into two groups: he labeled one group as jaws A, and the second as jaws B.
Dividing into two groups is necessary, since the jaws will have different fastenings. Therefore, the work of drilling holes for them will also be different; it is easier to understand the difference in fastening diagram from photographs of a ready-made clamp.

Step four: work on the jaws B.

To begin with, markings were made for drilling jaws from both groups. It is necessary to mark two holes with a diameter of 6 mm for the pins that will tighten the jaws. Two holes with a diameter of 6 mm should be located on the inner and upper surface of the jaws, passing through them. The first hole is located 19 mm from the rectangular edge of the jaw and located 9.5 mm from each side. The second hole is marked at a distance of 44 mm from the rectangular (back) wall of the sponge and is also located centrally relative to the other sides. After which sponges B are put aside.

Step five: finishing the sponges from group A.

Jaw A is slightly different from jaw B. Jaw A has two additional holes for cylindrical nuts, through which rods will pass to tighten the jaws of the clamp.

Therefore, in each jaw A two holes with a diameter of 12 mm were drilled through one side, as shown in the picture. The first hole, 12 mm in diameter, should be located 19 mm from the back of the jaw and equidistant from the top and bottom edges of the jaw. The second 12 mm hole should be located at a distance of 44 mm from the back wall and equally distant from the top and bottom edges. Thus, you should end up with a set of jaws with two holes along the center line of the outer planes of the jaws, as well as with two holes for pins with a diameter of 6 mm on the inside of the jaws.

Step Six: Threaded Studs

Using a hacksaw, the existing stud with a 6 mm thread was cut into pieces of the required length. There should be two stud blanks for each clamp. One blank is 114 mm long, and the second is 127 mm long. After which they were put aside until the stage of making handles for the clamps.

Step seven: making cylindrical nuts.

In this case, cylindrical nuts mean round steel parts with side holes drilled in them with threads for a 6 mm stud. Probably, such nuts or something similar can be bought, but the author decided to make them himself.

To make cylindrical nuts, a round metal blank with a diameter of 12 mm was required. Cylinders 19 mm long were cut from it, to the thickness of the clamp jaws. Then, holes were made in the side of each cylinder in the center, which, when placing the cylinders in 12 mm holes on jaws B, should coincide with 6 mm holes on the same jaws B. After that, threads were cut into the holes of the steel cylinders at an angle of 90 degrees by 20 turns using a 6 mm tap.

Step Eight: Creating chamfers on the clamp handles

To make it easier and more convenient to hold and tighten the handles of the clamp, each of them will have a chamfer. In addition, such a detail makes the appearance of the instrument more attractive, according to the author.

To begin with, the blank for the handle was secured, in this case in another ready-made clamp. After which the author made markings in the form of a hexagon on the outer surface of the workpiece, and markings were also made in the form of limiting lines along the sides of the future handle at a distance of 3 mm from the outer plane of the handle, as shown in the picture.

After that, using a sharp cutter, the chamfers were cut off and a handle blank with chamfers was obtained.

Step nine: creating a protrusion on the handles of the clamp.

To be able to screw a 12 mm nut onto the handles, the handles need to be cut to a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the nuts. This way, the threads of the nut will engage securely with the wooden lip of the handle, providing a fairly secure connection. It would be convenient to lathe the handles to create the desired lip diameter, but this can also be done by hand.

To do this, the author pressed the stop block against the saw guard, and used a 12 mm nut as a limiter for the cutting depth, as well as to ensure the required distance from the fence. After that, a wooden blank was taken for each handle and all the necessary cuts were made.
Thus, the result was a drawing which you can see in the picture above. After cutting off all the extra protrusions, you should get a handle with a ready-made protrusion for the nut.

Step ten: turning the protrusion of the handles.

In order to fit 12 mm nuts onto the handles, you need to cut off all the corners of the protrusion and grind the protrusion to the desired diameter. It is best to practice on some failed workpiece beforehand in order to understand to what extent it is necessary to grind off the protrusion and not spoil other workpieces.
To do this, the workpiece must be rigidly fixed and ground to an ideal cylindrical shape. Then carefully, so as not to damage the workpiece, you need to screw the nut onto the protrusion.

Step eleven: the final stage of making handles.

Each carpenter uses clamps during work, reliably fixing workpieces with their help. You can make such a device yourself, and there are several options.

Clamps are simple, universal and specialized. Not so long ago, a new type of product appeared - quick-clamping. Such an element can compress up to 450 kg. It will be useful to study the instructions for making wood clamps with your own hands.

Corner option

Regardless of the type of clamp, it must firmly clamp the parts for joining or processing. An angle joiner helps to fasten wood pieces at a certain angle (most often 90°, but there are others). You cannot do without this when assembling furniture and frames.

In order to make such a clamp from wood with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

• two wooden blocks 25 mm thick made of hardwood;
• plywood 12 mm thick or more;
• screws, studs;
• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• drill.

A square board with a side of 25 or 30 cm is cut out of plywood. Two bars are fixed on it at an angle of 90 °.

Important! The angle must be measured with high precision, since the correct fixation of parts depends on it.

First, the bars are glued, then countersunk, holes are drilled and screws or other fasteners are tightened. Perpendiculars are drawn from the center of the bars - screw studs will pass here.

At a distance of 20 mm from the corners, thrust bars are attached, maintaining a gap between them. It should be slightly larger than the width of the parts that are to be clamped with a homemade clamp. It is better to screw in the studs immediately, before fixing the stops. You will also need to cut out the movable blocks that will be connected to the pin (when it is unscrewed, the workpiece will be pressed against the corner bar).

For screws, it is best to take studs with rectangular or trapezoidal threads. The thread pitch is 2 turns per cm. It is very good if the stud has a rear sight on one side of a slightly smaller diameter than the thread. It can be used to seat the handle. On the other hand, a rear sight with a slightly larger diameter to accommodate the bearing is desirable.

So, in the simplest clamp, one end will be stationary, and the second will move through a worm gear.

To release the workpiece, you need to move the bracket to the required distance and turn the knob a few turns. This will fix the element. After this, you can release the mechanism and the workpiece will be released.

The simplest version of this model is equipped with a rail structure. The guides, which are arranged in parallel, have cut grooves at equal distances. Fixed stops are secured using rods made of metal. They can move exactly along the width of the workpieces. At the end of the beams, fixed stops should be installed, which have a worm mechanism. The usual method is to clamp it with a hairpin and a furniture nut.

Self-clamping option

For gluing parts, it is better to choose the simplest clamp model, which has an F-shape. The stores sell various models that consist not only of wood, but also of metal. The cost of such tools is high. Therefore, many craftsmen prefer to make them with their own hands.

For small jobs, a cam-type clamp is ideal. For example, if you need to glue small parts or fix workpieces. This model works in the same way as the f-shaped element. The tool includes 2 jaws and guide bars. Sponges: movable and fixed. For reliable clamping, it is necessary to fix the workpiece well and rotate the cam 90 degrees.

You can make such a tool yourself with a minimum set of tools and materials. Before you begin, you should draw a drawing of the product. You can use any material for manufacturing, and also change the standard sizes as you wish.

The tire is made of wood or metal. Small bolts and rivets can be used instead of metal pins. It is recommended to make movable and fixed jaws at the same time, since they mirror each other. Their width and length can be changed to increase the grip of the product.

For gluing boards (boards)

Clamps are needed for fixing sections, which, after the glue has dried, are used for furniture panels. Such products differ from simple ones in their length. In other words, they have a large jaw span. If you buy such material in a store, you will have to pay a decent amount. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to make clamping mechanisms themselves.

Materials and assembly steps

In order to make tree clamps, you will need the following elements:

• beech or birch block;
• feather drill;
• pipe 2.5 cm;
• mortise nuts of suitable diameter;
• a nut that has a rounded knob (used for decoration);
• a cutter with a diameter of 2.5 cm and a long pin.

The basis of the material is a pipe, from which a piece of the required length is cut. Depending on the size of the jaws, it is necessary to cut the block. The pieces should be from 15 to 20 cm. For free movement of the timber along the pipe, a hole with a diameter of 2.5 cm should be made at a distance of 2.5 cm from the edge. Parallel to the hole, a cut should be made from the same end. To fix the sponge on the pipe, connect the hole to the end.

For the driving nut, you need to drill an additional hole on the side of the cut. You need to drive a nut into it and tighten it with a bolt on the back side. To fix the sponge, clamp the pipe in the hole. To move the pipe, you need to unscrew the bolt, then move the element and repeat all the steps again.

The lower clamping part has 2 jaws; it is slightly larger than the upper one and has an additional nut. The structure of both parts is the same. An additional driving nut is located at the opposite end of the pipe into which a stud with a wing nut is installed.

In the second collapsible moving part there are no clamping parts such as cuts and nuts. The dimensions of such an element are also rather large. In this part it is necessary to make a recess for the stud device.

Operating principle

The principle of operation of the clamp is very simple. It is necessary to separate the jaws so that they are separated from each other at a distance of 3 cm greater than the width of the shield that will be installed. Next you need to fix them on the pipe. To do this, tighten the nuts that are located at the edges. The blanks must be placed on the tubes and sealed with glue. Then they need to be pulled together by rotating the “lamb”.

If you know how to use a grinder and a welding machine, you can make the same clamp for gluing wood from metal.

To maintain the plane of the plot with tubes, it is recommended to arrange the clamps in a checkerboard pattern. The main advantage of such a tool is its ease of manufacture and operation.

Special clamp designs

Having mastered the skills of making simple-shaped clamps, you can improve them and make devices for connecting complex parts.

There are homemade clamps made from a wooden hanger, which is sawn into pieces. They combine wood and steel and make more comfortable handles that allow you to quickly tighten the screw. This is especially important if you need to frequently change position or use several clamps at the same time. In the case of complex pieces, you can first cut them out of paper and then transfer them to plywood.

Although welded metal products are more reliable, wooden structures are also used not only for carpentry, but also for turning and carpentry. You don't need to have any special skills to create a clamp. You can make such a wooden product in unlimited quantities with your own hands. You just need to devote some time to the manufacturing process.