How to cover the platbands. Painting wooden doors

The buildings 03.03.2020
The buildings

A wooden house and white windows is a classic Russian version, inherent in private buildings in most regions of our country. But this is not the only solution: the following describes how to color decorate window openings in objects made of natural material, and also tells how to be guided when choosing a covering material.

Types of coating compositions

Wood frames require more maintenance than PVC or aluminum frames. Their main drawback is the need for regular staining, as natural conditions constantly affect the decorative surface. How to paint windows in a wooden house? Today, the following compositions are popular:

Universal paints do not exist: each performs a specific task. Therefore, before acquiring them, one should determine the goals and only then tend to choose one or another coverage. By the way, the price is not an indicator of quality and vice versa. It is necessary to trust only proven and reputable manufacturers.

Painting old frames

It is quite possible to give an old window a new life, even if the design is outdated, by following simple recommendations. The color of the windows in the log cabins can be any. White universal will give the building freshness, but sometimes it can turn yellow from the bright sun. Frames of brown, coffee or beige shades are good, in combination with wood they make up a harmonious ensemble.

So, the sequence of actions:

It is recommended to completely disassemble the window structure into its components - a box, frames, glazing beads, fittings. All wood is carefully inspected for damage. If it is found, it is mercilessly disposed of by abundantly wetting the parts with strong aqueous solutions of chemicals. After the procedure, the wood must be given time to absorb. If the foci of damage are very pronounced, it is worth refusing to extend the life of the entire window unit.

Further, the entire structure is covered with a solvent or heated with a building hair dryer, of course, removing all the glass. This will remove the old paint. They act with a spatula, carefully, layer by layer, freeing a clean tree. You can use a grinder or operate manually, then it will take more time, but the risk of spoiling the surface with automation will be less. After processing, parts of the frame are again impregnated with protective compounds.

All irregularities, cracks and defects are puttied. For this, a special composition is purchased that hardens in air. After restoring the contours of the glass, they are inserted back, carefully hammering in the glazing beads. The block is ready for painting.

To decide what color the windows in the house should be, the shade of the roof helps. This is most harmonious for a private object. Of course, there is hardly a white roof, but this color goes with everything, so you can safely act in this case.

Stages of work:

After the final drying of the layers, the frame is inserted into place, the doors are hung, and the fittings are installed. You can “revive” the window with the help of beautiful hinges or handles - copper or brass perfectly emphasize the richness of the wood.

Choice of color solution

Many owners choose colors based on the style of the building. For example, a Russian wooden house, the color of the roof and windows welcomes the same or, in general, natural. With the help of a varnish or a glazing matte composition, light wood shades can be preserved.

It is not forbidden to make window structures ocher or brick - dark brown. There is a plus here: rain drips and dirt from fallen leaves are less noticeable on the windows.

Other styles, such as chalets (Swiss houses), Art Nouveau (double light objects), country (rustic) also tend to be diverse, not dissonant with the walls of the building. You can highlight windows with light shades - yellow, orange, blue. The latter option is acceptable only if the building has an appropriate roof or doors.

Wooden houses in the style of minimalism do not welcome frills - bright colors are not for them. It is best to highlight window blocks with painted casings or emphasize openings with painted casings. The rest of the frames remain wooden, sanded and lacquered.

Whatever the owners choose, it is important to remember that the composition of the paint should not be corrosive, contain too many chemicals and volatile compounds, so as not to harm the wood. So, having decided the question of how to paint, you can get to work: all the recommendations are available and do not require much skill and skill.

Despite the practicality and ease of care for plastic windows, many people prefer wooden windows. This material has strength, sound insulation, reduced heat conductivity.

Wood is an environmentally friendly material, so such windows do not emit harmful substances without harming health. One of the criteria for caring for a tree is proper painting. You will never freeze in a wooden house if you take care of it properly.

How to paint wooden windows

To make the windows beautiful, you need to know how to paint, because not every paint fits well and will look attractive. This is especially worth considering from the outside, because. under the influence of various environmental factors, the paint quickly peels off. Indoors, constant contact with condensate, temperature changes, it also becomes unusable.

Important! It should be borne in mind that a tree often becomes a substrate for the occurrence of mold, fungi, and various pests.

To prevent this from happening, you need to know the rules for the correct painting of windows. For a good result, you need to follow simple recommendations:

  • Suitable weather. After painting, the paint should adhere well to the wooden surface, so you need to choose a day so that there are calm weather conditions without precipitation.
  • For quick drying, the optimum temperature is 5 C, and humidity is 80%.
  • If you apply the paint on a wet surface, then bubbles will soon appear, and you will need to apply a new layer.

The painting process itself is carried out in several stages.

Preparatory stage

Due to the influence of external weather influences, thermal insulation can deteriorate significantly. However, before staining, you can get rid of this issue. If the windows are already old and have had time to dry out, then sealing is needed. This process takes place in several ways:

  • The first method is to apply sealant to the frame, and then mount the glass there. To do this, you must first get it, which causes a lot of inconvenience.
  • The second method is much simpler and consists of sealing with ordinary window putty. But this option is less efficient than the first one.

Paraffin can be used as a putty. First, it is heated to a liquid consistency, and using a syringe, it is poured directly into the cracks. After the paraffin comes to a standard solid state, we remove its excess.

Important! Before painting, make sure that the window closes and opens without any obstruction. In case of a problem, it can be eliminated by normal grinding.

Cleaning off the old coating

The old layer of paint can be removed by the following methods:

  • Chemical - specialized solvents can be bought at any car dealer.
  • The thermal method is carried out using an industrial hair dryer, the air temperature of which should not be higher than 250 C. After drying, remove paint residues with an ordinary spatula or sandpaper.

Sashes and other elements must either be removed or covered with newspaper or tape. You also need to take care of the glass. In those places it is necessary to glue a gap of 2 mm from the edge.

Antiseptic treatment and puttying

The next important step is antiseptic treatment. If this is not done, then there is a risk that wooden frames will not last long, but will become a breeding ground for fungus, mold, and pests.

After the antiseptic has dried, you can start applying acrylic putty. This process proceeds in several layers, from thick to thin. This order is necessary for better fixing on a wooden surface, otherwise it will begin to crumble right with the paint.

Before puttying, it is very important that there are no cracks and various defects. Therefore, you can safely take sawdust, mix them with wood flour or glue and remove errors. The first layer is applied thickly, and then thoroughly cleaned with sandpaper, sanded and cleaned. After a few hours, repeat the procedure and do until the surface is completely even, so that the windows look well painted.

Priming helps create protection and at the same time becomes an antiseptic. It should be specifically for wooden surfaces.

Paint preparation

It is necessary to buy coloring agents such that they meet all the parameters:

  • moisture resistance;
  • density;
  • good application;
  • elasticity.

Do not allow wood to come into contact with water - this can lead to the formation of mold and mildew. Therefore, it is better to purchase a moisture-resistant paint that will protect and prevent water from leaking into the deeper layers.

Important! It is not allowed to paint platbands and frames with facade perchlorvinyl paints, bituminous varnishes, epoxy enamel, vinyl paints.

Choosing a color and preparing for painting

To choose the right color, you need to follow a simple algorithm: "In the shade - any shades, on the sunny side - only light ones." Internal slopes and architraves must be painted with enamel paints, because. they are bright and look good, in the outer slopes - oily.

Before painting, add a drop of solvent to the paint. Calculate the amount of paint from how much material you need to make the wooden surface and trim look painted. For work, you should prepare the details:

  • masking tape;
  • paint brush;
  • unnecessary rag;
  • sandpaper;
  • putty;
  • primer;
  • White Spirit;
  • dye.

It is necessary to paint in several layers:

  • The first layer is liquid to fill in all the errors. It is better to paint with a brush or roller.
  • The other layer implies a thicker painting. If there are drops or smudges, they can be removed with a rag.

The front side is painted first. If there are platbands, then they should be given special attention, because. they are the decoration of the house. When everything is painted, it remains only to remove the adhesive tape.

Important! If you need to close the sashes, then you need to put foil between the sashes, which will prevent them from sticking together.

Stain finish

Stain refers to liquid impregnation. It enhances beauty and allows you to change the shade. It is especially good to apply it on platbands, which gives them a special charm and design zest.

Also, its advantages include that it protects against UV rays, and prevents decay. This impregnation is done on an oil or water basis. However, there is no way to avoid the minuses, because when they are applied, they can leave ugly spots, because. dry out quickly. Also, for uniform distribution, an airbrush is required, which not everyone has.

If you use a water-based stain, you must be prepared that the wood may degrade its qualities, therefore, before processing, the wooden surface must first be wetted and then sanded.

Conclusion

Wooden houses have a large number of positive qualities, but they can quickly lose their operational functions.

If you decide to paint a wooden door yourself, then you can easily do it, having the necessary tools available. They must be selected depending on what material the door is made of and on the damage it has.

When the door is completely made of wood, in addition to adding veneer, MDF and cardboard, then painting wooden doors in this case is the easiest option and you can safely do it yourself.

In this case, the painting process will consist of the following steps:

  • First you need to carefully examine the door, and near the discovery of any visible defects on it (peeling of paint, chips, etc.), it is suitable to first prepare the door leaf. This operation can be performed exactly with the door installed or removed from the hinges. To make it more comfortable, you should remove the handle from the door before starting work.
  • After that, you will need to use a spatula to remove particles of paint that have begun to peel off, after (a year) you should walk along the door with a “sandpaper” to remove smaller peelings. P you need to use wood putty to eliminate all the holes that are on the door leaf. The layer of the applied putty should not be stronger than 1 mm, and if the defect has a greater depth, it is necessary to bring the putty in several layers. Each subsequent layer can be applied only after this complete drying of the previous one. When the putty dries, it must be sanded.
  • In an hour, the prepared door leaf will be ready, it needs to be primed (the primer should be produced by the same company as the paint, which the door will then be) and covered with a layer of paint. In order to avoid stains, it is better to use an airbrush or roller, and not a brush.
  • veneer door

    Self-painting of wooden doors, which has a layer of veneer, is very similar to painting an ordinary wooden door.

    Sermyaga, while you need to remember one exception. Quite often, at such doors, the key in the lower part may partially peel off during operation. Therefore, at the beginning it should be very carefully, without breaking, separated from the entire surface of the door, after some time, grease the wrong side of the veneer and the door leaf with special glue intended for (types of wood, and clamp it well with clamps. You can also lay pieces of plywood on top otherwise boards in order to to ensure an even and tight fit of the veneer.It is necessary to carry out these operations on a removed and horizontally laid door.

    When the paste is completely dry, you can start painting the door, for which it is better to use Pinotex wood protection and tint compositions.

    In order to get a colorless color, it is necessary to paint the door leaf several times, but remember that each next layer of paint can only be applied after the previous one has dried.

    The paint can be applied with a roller or brush. In order, then) to give the surface of the door a shine, it is necessary to cover it with a layer of varnish.

    Wooden opening from the bars

    The staining process will be slightly different if you need to individually process the door from the bars. Such doors should not only be decorated, but also necessarily covered with two or three layers of varnish, sanding each pericambium of varnish before applying the previous one. This technology will help you end up with a philosophical layer of varnish, despite the fact that the door itself was (small spotted, as it was assembled from separate bars that have different sponginess and, as a result, different absorption of the coloring composition.

    Painting platbands and door frames

    Obviously, many people know that it will not work just like that to remove the door frame, only if it is not then replaced. Therefore, you will have to sand and paint it right on the spot. In order to avoid staining adjacent surfaces during the painting process, it is necessary to first seal them with masking tape.

    The paint should be applied with a small roller or brush, and there should be as many layers of paint as on the door, so as not to end up with a different shade.

    In order to paint the architraves, they can be removed beforehand to facilitate the painting process. They also need to be sanded first and then covered with several coats of paint.

    In the book, if you varnished the door, you need to remember to do the same with the platbands and the door frame.

    Box replacement

    He knows enough when restoring the door, it becomes clear that it will not only have to be painted, but also to change the door frame (for example, if there was an illiterate threshold before, but now it is needed). In this situation, it will be necessary to saw off the bottom of the door leaf by 1 cm using a hand saw for wood. (a year) after this, the cut must be sanded, and only after that the door can stop being covered with paint.

    The new door frame should also be painted with the same paint. At the same time, the number of layers when painting the box, if you like, will be more than on the door, since its initial light will differ from the color of the door leaf.

    If there is a need for self-painting wooden doors, the task is quite easy to cope with, having a certain tool on hand. What exactly you need depends on the material from which the canvas is made and on the degree of damage.

    Full wood door (previously painted)

    The easiest painting option is when it is completely made of wood (without the addition of such modern materials as cardboard, MDF and veneer).

    So the process will look like this:

    • Examine the canvas carefully. If you find visible defects (chips, peeling paint, etc.), you will have to initially start preparing. This can be done both by removing the door from the hinges, and by doing all the work right on the spot. For convenience, it is better to remove the door handle.

    • So, for starters, take a spatula and remove the peeling particles of paint. Then go through the "sandpaper" to remove smaller detachments. Next, you will need wood filler, with which you can eliminate holes in the door leaf. Putty should be applied in a layer of no more than 1 mm. If the defect is deeper, apply putty in several layers (but only after the previous layer has completely dried). Sand the dried putty.
    • The surface prepared in this way must first be primed (select the primer from the same manufacturer as the wood paint - this information can be obtained from the seller in the store), and then coated with a layer of coloring composition. To avoid streaks, it is better to use not a brush, but a roller or spray gun.

    Door leaf with top layer of veneer

    Painting veneered doors, in principle, is similar to painting completely wooden ones.

    But there is one exception. The fact is that very often at such doors in their lower part the veneer peels off during operation. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to gently lift the peeled piece (without breaking), coat the canvas and the wrong side of the veneer with special glue for wood, and then clamp it in clamps, laying boards or pieces of plywood on the glued areas on top (this will ensure a tight and even fit of the veneer) . This “operation” should be carried out on the door leaf removed and laid horizontally.

    After the glue dries, you can start painting. For these purposes, such tint and wood-protecting compounds as Pinotex are suitable.

    To achieve the desired color, the door leaf can be painted several times, each time only after the previous layer has completely dried.

    The coloring composition can be applied with a brush or roller. For a glossy top coat the surface with a layer of wood varnish.

    Wooden door made of bars

    A little different should be done when it comes to painting wooden doors from bars. They must not only be painted, but also necessarily opened with two or three layers of varnish, each time sanding the varnished surface. This technology will allow you to get an even layer of varnish, although the canvas itself can be a little “spotty”, as it is assembled from separate bars that have different porosity and therefore absorb the composition in different ways.

    Painting the door frame and architraves

    It is clear that it will not work to remove the door frame (without its subsequent replacement with a new one). Therefore, it will have to be sanded and painted right on the spot. In order not to stain other surfaces in the process, cover them with masking tape. The composition should be applied with a brush or a small roller. The number of layers must match the number of layers on the door leaf (otherwise you may end up with a different shade).

    But the platbands can be removed beforehand (so it will be easier to paint them). They also need to be sanded first and then covered with several layers of paint.

    If you varnished the canvas, do not forget to repeat the same with the box and the platbands.

    Box replacement

    Often, during restoration, the best solution is not just painting, but also replacing the door frame (for example, if the opening did not have a threshold before, but now it has become necessary). In this case, the bottom of the door leaf (about 1 centimeter) will need to be sawn off (a hand saw for wood is better for this). Then the cut should be sanded, and only after that the entire canvas can be covered with the first layer of paint.

    The new door frame should also be painted using the same paint. But the number of layers, most likely, will have to be increased, since its original color may differ from the initial color.

    Work in my house is moving along, although not as fast as I would like. Today I’ll tell you about windows, platbands and painting the log from the inside.

    Download Oh, Frost for free on pleer.com

    As long as there are no windows in the house, it is impossible to put it into operation and formalize the ownership, so I start with the windows.

    Surprisingly, all the windows fit into one small van.

    For a long time I chose the material from which to make windows. 2 options were considered - laminated metal-plastic profile or larch. As a result, I chose a tree. Each of these materials has its pros and cons.

    Part of the sections made deaf, part opening. This frame with a blind mounted double-glazed window weighs about 250 kg. Five of them were lifted into place. Well at least the opening doors can be removed.

    Finished result. In total, the house has 18 windows of various sizes and shapes, including a double-leaf door to the terrace (pictured)

    The windows themselves are installed in a special frame assembled from a carpentry board or a thick wide board. This frame is called casing, pigtail, frame, etc. Whatever you call it, the purpose is the same - protecting a window or door when a house shrinks. The casing is fixed to the slope of the log in a special sliding way through the key and always remains in place, even if the log itself goes down during shrinkage. In order to prevent the casing from being crushed by a sinking house, a shrinkage gap of 5 to 10 cm (sometimes more) is left on top. It is clearly visible in all the photos.

    Subsequently, this gap is closed with mineral insulation wrapped in isospan. It works like a spring, because wooden walls can not only sit down, but also rise depending on the humidity of the environment. Vertical gaps between the casing and the end of the log can be caulked with flax.

    It so happened that I had to leave very large gaps above the large windows. I wanted the windows on the perpendicular walls to be at the same height. Subsequently, this influenced the design of the architraves.

    To call specialists from BTI, in addition to windows, we also need ceilings between the 1st and 2nd floors so that engineers can walk along them and measure the premises. Since I have ceilings on top of wooden beams, I start by painting these same beams. I use several colors of natural wood. I'm experimenting with a new oil wax material.

    In application, the material is more difficult than ordinary tikkurila or pinotex. It dries for a long time, much more expensive, not sold everywhere, but the result is worth it.

    After painting the beams, I paint and mount the lining face down.

    Lining in different rooms of different colors. unconventional solutions. Lining I use pine, sorting Extra. This is when there are no knots at all.

    This is what it looked like from above. You can step only in those places under which the beams pass, otherwise the lining will not support the weight of a person.

    Wooden logs are treated with fire protection.

    The process of mounting lining on the ceiling of the boiler room

    Isospan is covered on top of the lining. Mineral insulation will lie on it and isospan will prevent mineral dust from entering the room. Logs are laid on top of the isospan - this is the basis of the future floor.

    In the meantime, the preparation of external platbands is underway. They can be made from different materials and different in design. I make them out of carpentry boards - then they don’t lead and don’t twist due to humidity.

    This is what the window trim looks like. In the center of the casing, on the right is an extension, on the left is plywood in the cut. Plywood is more for decoration. After its installation, it gives the impression that the casing is made of thick timber and cut into logs. Without plywood, triangular slots remain on the sides of the casing. The whole thing is mounted in a sliding manner and does not collapse from shrinkage of the house.

    Well, almost finished result. Lacking only ebbs and plugs. I do not putty the self-tapping screws that fasten all the details, but close them with decorative wooden plugs for furniture. They are sold in the construction markets and can be of different diameters.

    Then came the inside. There is a more meticulous approach and the oil-wax painting material tested on the beams. In different rooms there are platbands of different colors.

    I painted all the interior trim myself.

    In parallel with the platbands, interior painting was underway. Different rooms have different colors. Here is an example of a dressing room. It remains to make a yellow floor and an inscription over the door "Glory to Ukraine". The only room in my house that has been painted with a opaque paint covering the wood structure.

    The main volume of the kitchen-living room-entrance hall-halls of the 1st and 2nd floors is painted white. The structure of the tree is translucent.

    In parallel with painting I am doing sewerage. I am installing a biological treatment plant designed for the estimated number of residents and plumbing fixtures.

    A healthy fool digs into the ground.


    Inside, the bacteria quickly process everything, and at the outlet, 98% purified water is discharged into the ditch. Someone uses it for watering, but I don't need it. The vital activity of bacteria and the technical process inside the unit is provided by a special compressor and several pumps that transfer liquids from tank to tank.

    The installation is connected to the house by a sewer pipe laid at a certain slope.

    Let's go back to the house. Platbands in the nursery yellow

    As are the walls. This picture clearly shows why plywood is needed at the end of the casing.

    Blue wardrobe.

    This is the future master bathroom.

    Hall 2 floors

    I decided to leave a couple of rooms under a transparent varnish. Many people love just such walls in a wooden house.

    This is what the dining area in the living room looks like.

    And there will be a kitchen. The polystyrene foam insulation for the concrete slab, which I purchased in advance, was very useful. From these cubes it was possible to collect forests of any configuration. like from a children's designer.


    I am designing my house in the course of the play in real time, except for any drawings on engineering communications. There are no beautiful pictures yet (except for 1 bathroom), so I'm a shoemaker without boots!

    Everything that is described in this post took about 1 year. + worked in parallel

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