Installation of a ventilation system in a private house. How to arrange ventilation ducts in a private house: design rules and construction guidelines

Landscape design and planning 27.08.2023

Landscape design and planning

Natural ventilation system in a private house - features and disadvantages

The natural ventilation system in a private house consists of vertical channels that begin in the ventilated room and end above the roof ridge.

The upward movement of air through the channels occurs under the influence of forces (thrust) caused by the difference in air temperatures at the inlet and outlet of the channel. Warm indoor air is lighter than cold outdoor air.

The draft in the ventilation channel is also influenced by the wind, which can either increase or decrease the draft. The traction force also depends on other factors: the height and cross-section of the ventilation duct, the presence of turns and narrowings, thermal insulation of the duct, etc.

Scheme of ventilation of premises in a multi-storey private house

According to building regulations, the natural ventilation channel must provide standard air exchange at outside air temperature +5 o C , without taking into account the influence of wind.

In summer, when the outside air temperature is higher than specified, air exchange worsens. Air circulation through natural ventilation channels almost completely stops when the outside air temperature is above +15 o C.

In winter, the colder it is outside, the stronger the traction and higher. According to some estimates, heat loss in winter through the natural ventilation system can reach 40% of all heat loss at home.

In houses, natural ventilation ducts usually come from the kitchen, bathrooms, boiler room and dressing rooms. Additional channels are provided for ventilation of the basement or for the device.

On the upper floors of a private house it is also often necessary to install additional natural ventilation channels from living rooms in order to ensure the air exchange required by standards.

In the attic rooms natural ventilation, as a rule, cannot provide the required air exchange due to a lack of draft in low-height ventilation ducts.

Natural ventilation standards

Russian building rules SP 55.13330.2011 “Single-apartment residential houses”, clause 8.4. require:

Minimum performance of the home ventilation system in maintenance mode should be determined based on at least one exchange of air volume per hour in rooms with constant presence of people.

In service mode, at least 60 m3 of air per hour must be removed from the kitchen, and 25 m3 of air per hour from the bathtub and restroom.

The air exchange rate in other rooms, as well as in all ventilated rooms in non-working mode, must be at least 0.2 room volume per hour.

A room with permanent occupancy is a room in which people are expected to stay for at least 2 hours continuously or 6 hours in total during the day.

For comparison, here are the requirements for ventilation performance in an apartment building, at a minimum:

The amount of air exchange specified in the standards must be ensured for the design conditions: outside air temperature +5 o C, and indoor air temperature during the cold season (for residential premises +22 o C) .

The supply of outside air to the premises should be provided through special air supply devices in external walls or windows.

For apartments and premises in which the outside temperature is +5 °C removal of the normalized air flow is not ensured; mechanical exhaust ventilation should be provided.

Mechanical ventilation with partial use of natural ventilation systems for air supply or removal (mixed ventilation) should also be provided during periods of the year when microclimate parameters and air quality cannot be ensured by natural ventilation.

For example, when the outside temperature is above +5 o C, the performance of natural ventilation channels is reduced. In this case, it is allowed to increase air exchange in rooms with windows by opening windows, vents and transoms. In rooms without windows, mechanical forced exhaust ventilation should be provided.

The natural ventilation system in a private house works as follows

In old houses and apartments, fresh air from the street penetrates into the living rooms through leaks in wooden windows, then through the overflow holes in the doors(usually the gap between the edge of the door and the floor) reaches the kitchen and bathrooms and exits into the natural ventilation channel.

The main purpose of such ventilation is to remove combustion products, gas, moisture and odors from the kitchen and bathrooms. Living rooms in such a system are not sufficiently ventilated. In rooms, you have to open the windows for ventilation.

If modern sealed window designs are used in the house, for the flow of fresh air it is necessary to install special supply valves in the outer walls of the rooms or in the windows.

Often, supply valves are not installed even in new houses. For air flow you have to keep the window sashes ajar at all times, at best, by installing “micro-ventilation” fittings on the windows. (First we choose and pay money for airtight windows with several levels of seals to protect against cold, noise and dust, and then we keep them constantly ajar!? :-?)

You can also often see how airtight doors are installed in rooms of the house, without a gap at the floor or other opening for air passage. Installing airtight doors cuts off the natural circulation of air between rooms of the house.

Many are not even aware of the need ensure a constant flow of fresh air into the rooms and air circulation between rooms. Having installed plastic windows and sealed doors, they still live in stuffiness, with condensation and mold. And in the indoor air there is an increased concentration of deadly gases - and insidious gases.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

All these open vents, slightly open sashes, cracks in windows, valve openings in external walls and windows cause drafts, serve as a source of street dust, allergenic pollen, insects and street noise.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation in our homes is the lack of control and regulation of the amount of air supplied and removed from the premises.

As a result, often the house is stuffy, high humidity, condensation on the windows and in other places, fungus and mold appear. Usually, this indicates that the ventilation is not doing its job - removing pollution and excess moisture released into the room air. The amount of air escaping through the ventilation is clearly not enough.

In other houses in winter it’s often the other way around, the air is very dry with relative humidity less than 30% (comfortable humidity 40-60%). This indicates that too much air is being lost through the ventilation. The frosty, dry air entering the house does not have time to become saturated with moisture and immediately goes into the ventilation duct. And heat goes away with the air. We get discomfort of the indoor microclimate and heat loss.

In summer, the draft in the natural ventilation channel decreases, until the air movement in the channel completely stops. In this case, the rooms are ventilated by opening the windows. Other rooms without windows, for example, a bathroom, toilet, dressing room, cannot be ventilated in this way. Such In rooms that remain without ventilation in the summer, moist air easily and quickly accumulates, and then the smell, fungus and mold appears.

How to improve natural ventilation

The operation of natural ventilation can be made more economical if you install an automatic valve at the entrance to the ventilation duct, controlled by a humidity sensor. The degree to which the valve opens will depend on the air humidity in the room - the higher the humidity, the more the valve is open.

They install in the rooms supply valves controlled by an outside air temperature sensor. As the temperature decreases, the air density increases and the valve must be closed to prevent excess cold air from entering the room.

Automation of valve operation will reduce heat loss with air escaping through ventilation by 20-30%, and the overall heat loss of the house by 7-10%.

It should be understood that such local automation of the operation of each individual valve will not be able to fully eliminate the shortcomings of the natural ventilation system in the house. Installing automatic valves will only slightly improve the performance of ventilation, especially in winter.

At a minimum, you can install adjustable grilles and valves on the supply and exhaust ducts, and adjust them manually, at least twice a year. During the winter period, they are covered, and with the onset of warmth, the exhaust grilles and supply valves are opened completely.

Building regulations allow the rate of air exchange in non-operating modes of premises to be reduced to 0.2 room volume per hour, i.e. five times. There will always be rarely used rooms in the house. Especially on the upper floors of the house. In winter, be sure to close ventilation valves in rarely used rooms.

A ventilator in the outer wall provides a forced flow of air into the room. Fan power only 3 -7 W.

Compared to a supply valve, the ventilator has the following advantages:

The volume of air coming from the street is limited only by the power of the fan.
They create excess pressure in the room, due to which air exchange increases in houses and apartments with poorly functioning exhaust ventilation ducts, and also prevents the suction of polluted air from neighboring rooms and the basement.
Reduce the dependence of natural ventilation on climatic factors.
Deep air purification from dust, allergens and odors is achievable through the use of more efficient filters with high aerodynamic resistance.
Provide the best.

Ventilators equipped with an electronic climate control system, air heating, and special filters are often called breathers.

Inexpensive electronic devices for home use are available that measure air humidity. Hang such a device on the wall and adjust the throughput of the ventilation channels, focusing on the readings of the device. Maintain optimal air humidity in residential areas of 40-60%.

Check the presence and size of ventilation openings to move air between rooms in the house. The area of the overflow hole for the exit of air from the living room must be at least 200 cm 2. Usually they leave a gap between the edge of the door and the floor in the room 2-3 cm.

Overflow hole for air entry into the kitchen, bathroom or to another room equipped with a ventilation exhaust duct, must have an area of at least 800 cm 2. Here it is better to install a ventilation grille at the bottom of the door or interior wall of the room.

When moving from a room to a room with a ventilation duct, air should pass through no more than two flow openings (two doors).

Ventilation ducts that pass through an unheated room (attic) must be insulated. Rapid cooling of the air in the channel reduces draft and leads to condensation from the removed air. The route of the natural ventilation channel should not have horizontal sections, which also reduce draft.

Fan in the natural ventilation duct

To improve the operation of natural ventilation, kitchen hoods are installed, as well as electric fans at the entrance of ventilation ducts. Such fans are suitable only for short-term and intensive ventilation of rooms during periods of significant moisture and pollution. The fans are very noisy, their performance, and therefore power consumption, exceeds the values necessary for constant ventilation.

It should be noted that installing a fan in an existing natural ventilation duct reduces the lumen of the duct. Autorotation of the blades (rotation of the blades of an idle fan under the pressure of incoming air) further increases the aerodynamic resistance of the channel. As a result, installation fan significantly reduces the force of natural draft in the duct.

A similar situation occurs when a kitchen hood above the stove is connected to the only natural ventilation channel in the kitchen.

Filters, valves and a fan in the kitchen hood practically block the natural draft in the ventilation duct. A kitchen with the hood turned off remains without ventilation, which impairs air exchange throughout the house.

To correct the situation, into the air duct between the natural ventilation duct and the kitchen hood It is recommended to place a tee with a check valve on the side outlet. When the hood is not working, the check valve opens, ensuring free passage of air from the kitchen into the ventilation duct.

When you turn on the kitchen hood A large amount of warm air is released into the street for the sole purpose of removing odors and other contaminants that form above the stove.

To prevent heat loss, it is recommended to install an umbrella over the kitchen stove, equipped with a fan, filters and odor absorbers for deep air purification. After filtration, the air, purified from odors and contaminants, is sent back into the room. This type of hood is often called a filter hood with recirculation. It should be borne in mind that the savings from lower heating costs are somewhat offset due to the need to periodically replace filters in the hood.

Available for sale fans controlled by a humidity sensor. The fan turns on when a certain threshold of humidity in the room is reached and turns off when it decreases. All of the above features of the operation of fans in a natural ventilation system are preserved when working with a humidity sensor.

In any case, fan operation only leads to an increase in draft in the ventilation duct and a decrease in humidity in the room. But it is not able to limit natural draft, preventing excessive dry air and heat loss in winter.

In addition, in the natural ventilation system, several elements located in different parts of the house work in concert - supply valves, exhaust ducts, flow grilles between rooms.

Turning on a fan in one of the channels often leads to disruption of the operation of other elements of the system. For example, the supply valves in the house often cannot pass the sharply increased amount of air required for the fan to operate. As a result, when you turn on the hood in the kitchen, the draft in the exhaust duct in the bathroom overturns - air from the street begins to enter the house through the exhaust duct in the bathroom.

Natural ventilation in a private house is a system:

simple and cheap to install;
does not have any mechanisms requiring an electric drive;
reliable, does not break;
very cheap to operate - costs are associated only with the need to perform periodic inspections and cleaning of ventilation ducts;
does not make noise;
the efficiency of its operation strongly depends on atmospheric conditions - most of the time the ventilation does not operate in optimal mode;
has a limited ability to adjust its performance, only in the direction of reducing air exchange;
in winter, the operation of the natural ventilation system leads to significant heat loss;
in summer the ventilation system does not work, ventilation of the premises is possible only through open windows and vents;
there is no possibility of preparing the air supplied to the room - filtration, heating or cooling, changing humidity;
does not provide the necessary comfort (air exchange) - which causes stuffiness, dampness (fungi, mold) and drafts, and also serves as a source of street dust (pollen) and insects, and reduces the sound insulation of rooms.

Ventilation of the upper floors of a multi-storey private house

In a multi-storey building, as in a large ventilation duct, there is a natural draft, under the influence of which air from the first floor rushes up the stairs to the upper floors.

If we do not take any measures, then on the upper floors of the house we will always have stuffiness and high humidity, and in the house there will be a temperature difference between floors.

There are two options for installing natural ventilation in the upper floors of the house.

Read:

Ventilation in a wooden house

It’s interesting that traditional for Russia houses with walls made of logs or timber do not have special devices for ventilation. Ventilation of rooms in such houses occurs due to walls (“breathing walls”), ceilings and windows, as well as as a result of air movement through the chimney when the stove is fired.

In the construction of a modern wooden house, various methods of sealing are increasingly being used - machine profiling of the mating surfaces of logs and beams, sealants for inter-crown seams, vapor-tight and windproof films in ceilings, sealed windows. The walls of the house are sheathed and insulated, and treated with various toxic compounds.

As a rule, there are no stoves in the rooms of the house.

A ventilation system in such modern wooden houses is simply necessary.

Ventilation of dressing rooms and storage rooms

Ventilation must be provided in the dressing room or storage room. Without ventilation, rooms will smell, humidity will increase, and condensation, mildew and mold may even appear on the walls.

The natural ventilation scheme for these rooms should exclude the flow of air from the dressing room or storage room into the living rooms.

If the doors of these rooms open onto the corridor, hall or kitchen, then the rooms are ventilated in the same way as the living rooms in the house are ventilated. To bring in fresh air from the street, a supply valve is placed in the window (if there is one) or in the wall. In the doors of the dressing room, pantries, a gap is left at the bottom, between the door and the floor, or another hole is made for air passage, for example, a ventilation grill is inserted into the lower part of the door.

Fresh air enters the dressing room or pantry through the supply valve, then leaves through the hole in the door into the corridor, and then goes to the kitchen, into the exhaust duct of the natural ventilation of the house.

There should be more than two doors between the dressing room or storage room and the room where there is a natural ventilation channel.

If the doors of the dressing room open into the living room, then the movement of air for ventilation of the dressing room should be organized in the opposite direction - from the living room, through the hole in the door, into the ventilation duct of the dressing room. In this version The dressing room is equipped with a natural ventilation channel.

Ventilation in your city

Ventilation

Ventilation of a private house. Air flows in the house - video:

The purpose of ventilation is to improve the air quality in the home. There is a conflict between the need to improve air quality and minimize the cost of modern ventilation and reduce its energy consumption.

Meanwhile, ventilation is not the only way to improve indoor air quality. The most important thing is to control the sources of air pollution. We are talking about everyday habits, such as not smoking in the room, making sure that bacteria and fungi do not multiply in the apartment.

The quality of air in a home clearly depends on whether materials with low levels of harmful emissions are used for construction. Natural materials such as wood, stone or glass are considered primarily as such.

By judicious selection of materials during the construction phase, good home air quality can be maintained even if a less expensive and energy-intensive ventilation system is installed.

What is natural ventilation: the principle of operation in general terms

warm air always tends upward;
the air will always “go” to where the pressure is lower;
closer to the surface - the pressure is higher, further from the surface - the pressure is lower.

To organize such air exchange in a room, you need to ensure a pressure difference. This is done like this:

“Openings” are created between the street and the premises: these can be windows or supply valves, in non-residential premises - just openings. These are air inflow points.
An exhaust pipe is led from the room to the top. Its hole will be higher than the inflow point. This means that at this hole in the pipe the pressure will be lower than at the inflow point. As a result, the air will tend to pass from the point of inflow (that is, from the street) to the opening of the exhaust pipe.
The inflow points are located at the maximum distance from the exhaust pipe - so that the air passes through the entire room. There should be no obstacles (closed doors) between them.

That is encouraging air circulation without the use of fans(it doesn’t matter - exhaust or supply).

Visually about the principle of operation (video)

What determines the speed and volume of air exchange?

The amount of air (performance of a ventilation system) of this type is influenced by the following factors:

Wind speed. The stronger the wind blows, the lower the pressure at the outlet of the exhaust pipe will be, and the better air from the room will be sucked through it. And vice versa: if the weather is calm, then air exchange worsens.
Exhaust pipe height. The higher you are from the surface, the lower the pressure, which means the better the air will be drawn out of the room through the exhaust pipe.
Temperature outside and indoors. The greater the difference between them (the colder it is outside and the warmer it is inside), the better the traction. Therefore, in winter, ventilation works better, and in summer, natural ventilation may stop altogether.

About the influence of season and weather (video)

How does air flow through a room in winter? (+video)

IN Above we examined the principle of operation of the system in general terms. Now let's go a little deeper into the details.

The indoor microclimate will also be affected byhow fast and in what direction the air flow will move around the room.We will consider 2 options - in the first, the heating radiator is located under the window sill, in the second - against the wall (not immediately under the window, but in the distance).

In the first case, when the battery is located immediately under the window:

Since cold air is “heavier” than warm air, it sinks lower, where it is heated by the radiator and mixed with warmer room air.
The mixed air flow, which already has a comfortable temperature, passes through the room, giving off some of the heat to the surrounding surfaces: walls, furniture.

This way the cold flow will immediately heat up and will not pass through the room along the floor, creating discomfort.

In the second case, when the battery is located away from the window (near the wall):

Through a window or valve (wall/window), cold air enters.
Since cold air is “heavier” than warm air, it sinks lower to the floor surface.
Since there is no heat source immediately next to the window, the cold flow continues to move around the room, up to the radiator. As it moves, it gradually mixes with warmer room air, and eventually reaches the battery, where it heats up and rises higher.

Thus, the cold stream is not heated immediately at the entrance from the street, but much later. Because of this, the lower part of the room from the window to the radiator turns out to be cold - which causes discomfort and disrupts the favorable temperature regime.

How is it different from a compulsory system?

The main difference in a nutshell: a natural system does not use fans to create airflow, while a forced system does.

Artificial (forced, mechanical) ventilation is more modern, more productive, stable and reliable. The reason is that the performance of fans is less dependent on weather conditions - even if the temperature or pressure outside changes, you can always change the rotation speed of the impeller by adding or decreasing the volume of air driven.

In a forced system, air is supplied and/or removed (in this photo) by a fan

The forced scheme is used where it is very important to create and maintain a certain volume of air exchange, and, if necessary, regulate it within a precise range:

in production premises;
in offices;
in warehouses;
in places with large crowds of people (shopping centers, train stations, sports complexes, hospitals, concert halls, and so on);
in places with high humidity (swimming pools, vegetable stores, industrial complexes with increased heat and/or moisture);
in places where harmful and/or explosive substances are released into the air (industrial complexes, welding stations, paint shops, furniture shops).

Ventilation systems with natural air exchange are almost never used for the listed buildings. As an option, they can be used if the room area is small.

List of elements involved in natural air exchange

IN natural air exchange scheme can use the following elements:

Not special cracks, holes, leaks. They can be, for example, in old wooden windows, or in old wooden houses.
Specially created openings: vents, dormer windows. They are made in non-residential premises.
Window. An open sash, a slightly open window, a gap in micro-ventilation mode.
Supply valve. It happens either (mounted into the wall) or (mounted into the window sash). Allows air to penetrate inside even when the window is closed.
Air ducts (essentially pipes that can be made of different materials, have different diameters and cross-sectional shapes). Air can pass through them (both from the street and into the street).They are not always and not necessarily used for inflow. Exhaust ducts are made from pipes.
IN ventilation shaft. Most often it is built in multi-storey buildings. Essentially high exhaust large diameter pipe that runs from the first until the last floors and exits through the roof. In each apartment on each floor there are openings that go into the ventilation shaft(they are made in kitchens and bathrooms).
D chimneys (if the house has a stove/fireplace). In addition to the fact that smoke is removed through them when fuel burns, they can play the role of an exhaust pipe.
Deflectors. Used to enhance draft in the exhaust pipe/chimney.
Ventilation grates.Cover air holeshoses and supply valves (both outside and indoors). They perform a decorative function and protect the channel from various debris, birds, and insects. They may differ in size, shape, material (plastic, metal), area (total grille area and open cross-sectional area).
. An analogue of a ventilation grille, it differs in operating principle and appearance.
in the door leaf (or crack under the door). They are needed so that air inside the room can pass from the point of inflow to the exhaust, even if the doors are tightly closed.
Check valve. Can be placed on air ducts to prevent air from passing in the wrong direction. ABOUT usually they put him in forcedsystems, but is rarely used in natural systems.

From left to right, top: window valve, wall valve, overflow grille. Below: anemostat, vents in the foundation, deflector

It is not necessary to use all the elements: some systems (small in size) can get by with a smaller set.

Kinds natural ventilation systems

Conventionally, such systems can be divided according to 2 criteria:

According to the method of device (design): ducted or ductless.
By “intention”: unorganized or organized.

Now let's look at the types in a little more detail.

The design of a ductless system does not require special installation of air ducts - air inflow is carried out through windows or valves, and removal is through the openings of the ventilation shaft. Duct scheme - requires the installation of air ducts (in walls and/or ceilings).

An unorganized system is normal for old private houses, especially wooden ones. Air flows in through leaks and cracks in the walls, and air is removed through the stove chimney. Organized layout - planned and arranged intentionally.

Pros and cons of such a system

Now let's look at the main advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages of a natural ventilation system:

Cheap installation. Both the system elements and their installation are comparatively cheaper than the elements of forced systems.
Cheap maintenance. No electrical appliances are used in such systems, which means there will be no electricity costs.
No noise from operating equipment. No fans - no noise.

The disadvantages are:

There is no way to properly clean the air. In order for the air flow to pass through the filter element, there must be a consistently high draft, which is lacking in the natural system.
There is no way to regulate system performance. Even if you open the windows wide throughout the house, this may not always affect ventilation.
Dependence on weather conditions. On the same day, air exchange can vary greatly - from good (for example, if the wind blows) to almost zero, in calm, windless weather. The same applies to the time of year: in winter, ventilation can work perfectly, but in summer, on the contrary, it can barely function.
Noise can be heard through open windows and air intake valves, and dust and odors from the street can also enter.

For which buildings and premises is it suitable?

The installation of such systems is relevant in the following regions and localities:

in regions with a temperate and cool climate (if the climate is warm, then the natural draft is created worse);
if there are no natural or artificial obstacles to the wind around (if there are high-rise buildings or a “wall” of tall trees nearby around a 2-story building, then there will be no normal draft in its ventilation duct).

Natural ventilation is usually done in the following buildings and premises:

Multi-storey residential buildings. In them, the natural system is often supplemented with kitchen and toilet hoods - at the request of the apartment owners.
Country houses, small residential cottages.
Low-rise non-residential buildings: sheds, garages, barns, country toilets.
Non-residential premises in private houses: basements, attics, boiler rooms.
Small industrial/warehouse/work premises and buildings, provided that they do not maintain high humidity and do not release explosive or hazardous substances into the air.
Small outbuildings in which domestic animals are kept: chicken coops, cowsheds, pigsties.

Scheme of natural ventilation in an apartment (apartment building)

Let's briefly look at how ventilation systems work in a single apartment in an apartment building.

Air enters through open windows and/or supply valves. The exhaust is carried out through a ventilation shaft, the openings of which are in every kitchen and every bathroom (bathroom, toilet).

From the window to the opening, the air flow passes through the room through open doors, or (if they are closed) through the cracks under them or flow grilles.

Scheme of natural ventilation in a private house

The layout of the natural ventilation system in private houses is slightly different from that in apartments. Inflow is also carried out through windows and/or valves. But ventilation shafts are rarely installed in cottages (unless it is a building with several floors and a cellar).

Typically, air removal is carried out through:

Stove chimney - if the house has a stove/fireplace.
An exhaust pipe that runs from the kitchen and bathroom to the street. Most often, it is led out of the room through the wall (horizontally), and then turns and goes up to the roof.

Air quantity calculation

R Calculation is necessary to determine the characteristics of the system:

Number of supply valves.
Supply valve performance (as it may vary depending on the model).

Below we present established standards from various regulatory documents:

ABOK - standards of technical materials for heating, ventilation, air conditioning, heat and cold supply, microclimate of buildings.
SNiP (short for “building norms and rules”) is a system of regulatory documents adopted back in the USSR that standardize requirements for various buildings.

Air exchange standards for residential buildings are given in ABOK-1-2002.This document specifies the following requirements:

Now let's give an excerpt from the norms from SNiP. Data used from documents:

SP 55.13330.2011, to SNiP 31-02-2001 “Single-apartment residential buildings”;
SP 60.13330.2012 to SNiP 41-01-2003 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”;
WITH P 54.13330.2011 to SNiP 31-01-2003 “Residential multi-apartment buildings”.

The rules are:

Room	Minimum inflow	Minimum hood
Residential, with constant presence of people	At least 1 volume per hour	— (not standardized, must ensure the specified inflow)
Living space less than 20 m²	3 m³/h for every 1 m², for 1 person
Living space that is not in use	0.2 volumes per hour
Kitchen with electric stove
Kitchen with gas stove	Single exchange + 100 m³/h
Room with solid fuel boiler/stove	Single exchange + 100 m³/h
Bathroom (bathtub, toilet)
Home gym
Home sauna

As you can see, some norms are partially different from each other. Therefore, when designing a system, it is better to choose a larger indicator, and in general, plan performance with a margin.

In fact, these same requirements apply not only to natural systems - they are the same for forced ventilation.

More details and clarity about the calculation (video)

Rules for installing natural ventilation

If you decide to set up such a system with your own hands, you should consider the following rules and recommendations:

The ventilation shaft (if there is one) should be laid not from the edge of the building, but between the walls of the house (as in high-rise buildings). In this case, the ventilation shaft will always be warm, and in winter the temperature difference between the air in it and the air outside will be greater - and the draft will be better.
If the exhaust duct runs along the street (for example, it is discharged through the wall immediately on the first floor, and then goes upstairs) - it is recommended to insulate it.
The internal surface of the ventilation shaft should be as flat and smooth as possible. Any roughness is an obstacle to air flow, which can result in reduced traction.
Be sure to make sure that neither inside the exhaust duct nor on top of it there are any poorly holding elements (for example, protruding wire or a loosely attached sheet of metal). With strong draft, this can become a source of noise that will be heard in the house.
If you choose between corrugated and rigid air duct. Corrugation is easier to install, but due to the ribbed surface, more noise is created inside such a channel, and there is less thrust in it. A rigid channel is more difficult to install, but thanks to the smooth surface, the air does not create noise and passes faster (the traction is better).
If you choose an air duct section. A rectangular channel takes up less space, but due to the angles, the thrust in it is slightly less than in a round one. Round channel - takes up a little more space, but is easier to install and has higher draft.
Avoid sudden changes in diameter. If the air duct consists of sections of different diameters, the transition between them should be smooth, at an angle of no more than 30°.
It is better to place a deflector on top of each exhaust pipe. This product will cover the air duct from rain and snow, insects, poplar fluff and other possible debris, and in addition will partially increase draft.
Remember that ventilation is not only exhaust, but also inflow. If you make the exhaust duct correctly, but at the same time install sealed plastic windows and do not take care of the supply of fresh air, there will be no normal air exchange. Either the windows will need to be kept closed, or supply valves will need to be installed.
The exhaust point (that is, the opening of the exhaust duct) should be located as high as possible, under the ceiling.
The fewer turns the air duct has, the better. Relatively speaking, each turn worsens traction by about 10%. If you cannot do without turns, if possible they should be made smooth, without right angles.

Remember: the natural system is far from ideal, even if it is made according to all the rules and regulations. Therefore, it is better to at least use a forced device for exhaust hood. This could be a range hood in the kitchen, a hood in the bathroom, or in an air duct. You don't have to turn them on all the time, but just in case, it's definitely worth having.

Maintenance and cleaning

Over time, the operation of ventilation systems leads to their contamination with dust and other small particles.

You can understand that the system needs checking and cleaning by deteriorating traction. If you begin to feel that the air in the house is becoming stale, odors are moving away more slowly, and the humidity in the bathroom is increasing - a clear indicator that the ventilation has begun to work worse.

In this case you need:

Clean the air supply devices (valves). They can become clogged both from the inside (in the housing, in the filter, if any) and from the outside (various debris can collect on the external grilles: leaves, dust, cobwebs).
Clean the ventilation grilles of the exhaust openings. They can become dirty especially quickly in the kitchen, where air from the stove with small particles of fat reaches them.
If it is a multi-storey building: visually assess the condition of the ventilation shaft. To do this, you will need to remove the grille and use a mirror to inspect the channel inside, if possible. If the shaft is damaged or clogged, you won’t be able to clean it yourself: you need to call the housing office (or the organization that is responsible for the condition of the ventilation of your home).
If this is a private house: clean the ventilation shaft (or the exhaust pipe, if it stands instead of a shaft) and/or the chimney, if there is one.

In new homes, ventilation problems may begin after a few years. In apartment buildings built more than a decade ago, they occur quite often: due to the inattention of those in charge, due to damage to the mine, due to incorrect actions of residents whose apartments are located on the same riser.

Due to poorly organized air exchange, the microclimate in the cottage often becomes unfavorable and uncomfortable. As a result, the health of the people living in it deteriorates, and the decoration and furniture suffer from excessive humidity or excessive dry air. And only properly organized ventilation in a private home can prevent these problems.

How to properly equip it and what type of system to choose? We will consider these questions in our article. We will also look at choosing the optimal ventilation scheme for the cottage and ensuring a sufficient level of air exchange in individual rooms of the house.

The creation of ventilation in the cottage is due to the fact that there must be a continuous exchange of air masses in it. Old, used air with a large amount of carbon dioxide must be removed from the premises, replacing it with new air that constantly contains oxygen - from the street.

If you stop this air exchange, the microclimate inside will quickly become far from favorable for human health.

According to standards for living rooms, the optimal atmosphere is a temperature in the region of 20–25 degrees and a relative humidity of 30–60%, depending on the time of year and the readings on the thermometer outside the window

In order to maintain the air exchange parameters established by GOSTs, the ventilation system in the house, made with your own hands or with the involvement of third-party installers, must continuously change the air in the rooms.

For example, for living rooms in a cottage, the air exchange rate per hour is set to “1”. That is, within an hour the entire volume of air in them must be completely replaced.

The purpose of ventilation is to combat the following factors:

excess heat;
constantly appearing dust;
excessive air humidity;
harmful gases and vapors.

Every person in the house exhales carbon dioxide around the clock. Also in the residential building there are fireplaces, gas and electric stoves, numerous household appliances, that is, there are a lot of sources of heat, moisture, dust and gases in the cottage. And all this must be removed from the premises so that the microclimate in them is suitable for living.

According to the method of air movement, ventilation systems are divided into:

With natural cravings.
With mechanical urge.

First option involves the movement of air masses due to the existence of a pressure difference outside and inside the ventilated building. Moreover, it can be organized - using adjustable valves, and unorganized - exclusively through windows, doors and vents in the foundation.

In the second case air is forced to move through rooms and ventilation ducts using mechanical devices. This option is energy dependent, but more effective.

Principles of ventilation

Previously, housing was built with wooden windows and doors. Moreover, they did not shine with special tightness. As a result, through the existing cracks there was a constant and natural exchange of dirty indoor and clean outdoor air.

However, now they have been replaced by plastic window and door blocks, which are an order of magnitude more airtight. Therefore, as an option, they install a special device on such windows -.

Option #1 - natural draft system

A non-mechanical ventilation system works due to the formation of natural draft in a vertical pipe.

This is the principle of operation of a classic wood stove or fireplace chimney. In both cases, pressure is created below, pushing the air upward and outward.

The traction force is also affected by the moisture saturation of the air. The drier it is, the heavier it is. Moist air masses inevitably tend to rise to the ceiling and then into the ventilation duct if it goes outside the building.

The main disadvantage of natural ventilation lies in its poor controllability. In case of strong wind, formation is possible. In winter, due to the temperature difference, the system works very efficiently, in some situations even to excess, drawing precious heat out of the house.

And in summer its effectiveness drops significantly. Temperatures in the rooms of the cottage and outside in the summer do not differ much, so the draft inevitably decreases.

When there are gusts of wind, the air in the ventilation can flow backward through the ventilation duct back into the rooms. Backdraft formation is rare, but quite possible.

To control the quality of air exchange in such a system, the ventilation ducts in it must be equipped. If necessary, you can cover them to reduce natural traction.

Option #2 - forced inducement system

If the natural ventilation system is not capable of maintaining the proper microclimate in the cottage, then it has to be replaced with supply or exhaust mechanical ventilation.

In this case, air flows are forced to move through the interior spaces using fans.

A combined variation of the system is also possible - with. In it, the volumes of both supply and exhaust are controlled by ventilation units.

In the supply system, clean air is pumped into the house by mechanical devices, and it leaves on its own into the ventilation shaft. In the exhaust, it is drawn out by a fan, and the inflow is carried out through ventilation holes in the walls

In some situations, such a system is additionally installed, which takes heat from the air from the rooms and then releases it to the outside air.

Exhaust fans are installed in each room or one per ventilation shaft. And air supply units in private homes are usually equipped in the form of wall-mounted vents with an axial electric fan inside.

But an option is also possible with a single air blower and ventilation ducts throughout the building.

If supply and exhaust ventilation is done, then it requires laying two separate ventilation ducts - one goes to the exhaust, the second to the supply.

This seriously affects the cost of the system, but allows it to be more precisely regulated and controlled.

Which scheme is better for a cottage?

To decide which and how best to install ventilation in a private home, you need to take into account a lot of factors. The characteristics of all engineering systems and heating devices in the building are important here.

When choosing the appropriate type of ventilation system, you should consider:

climatic features of the area;
the presence of sources of unpleasant and harmful impurities in the air near the house;
purpose of different rooms;
individual features of the building's architecture;
the presence of gas stoves or boilers, as well as fireplaces or wood/coal stoves;
the number of permanent residents in the cottage and much more.

It is recommended to design and install only natural ventilation yourself. To calculate it, simplified methods with averaged indicators are used. Understanding them is not difficult.

For living rooms, the air exchange rate is set at 30 m 3 /hour, for bathrooms and toilets in the range of 25–30 m 3 /hour, and for the kitchen – 70–100 m 3 /hour. Based on this data and the cubic capacity of the rooms, you only need to calculate the width of the ventilation ducts, and then arrange them in the building.

Moreover, it is best to do this at the cottage design stage. Often the best option is a ventilation shaft in the middle of the building with its outlet above the roof ridge.

If a private house is being built on two or three floors and a forced air exchange system is chosen for it, then it is better to entrust its design to a professional. You can then do the installation yourself.

However, if you have no experience in this matter and do not want to encounter problems in the future, then the installation of all ventilation equipment should also be entrusted to a specialist.

Compared to mechanical ventilation, natural ventilation is cheaper, less noisy and does not depend on the availability of power. However, it is more difficult to regulate. Plus, its thrust is highly dependent on external atmospheric factors.

But the absence of electric fans means no problems with breakdowns and no need for their maintenance.

A forced ventilation system in a private house in a combined or only exhaust or supply version is more complex to install and operate. However, it allows you to save on heating and more accurately control the microclimate in the cottage.

When installing any ventilation in a private home, air flows are arranged in such a way that clean street air first flows into the living room, bedrooms, study and library.

To ensure unhindered natural air flow through the cottage, all interior doors must have a clearance of 2–3 cm between the door leaf and the threshold

In the kitchen, in addition to the ventilation hole, it is recommended to additionally install it in the ventilation duct. It will allow you to quickly remove cooking odors, preventing them from spreading to other rooms in the house.

A separate point is the boiler room and kitchen with gas equipment. They must be equipped with a separate channel for air flow directly from the street. Plus, don't forget about.

The easiest and cheapest way to do classic natural ventilation in a private house.

But if the cottage is large in size, with many residential and non-residential rooms, a fireplace and gas-powered equipment, then you will need to equip its mechanical equivalent. This system will be more expensive to install and operate, but the air exchange and microclimate inside will be at the proper level.

Are you comparing ventilation systems for a private home and can’t decide on the best option in your case? Ask your question to our experts in the comments to this article.

Or maybe you still have questions about the nuances of arranging a ventilation system and the rules for choosing equipment? Ask for advice in the comments block - we and experienced visitors to our site will try to help you.

In multi-apartment buildings, the presence of a ventilation system with a natural impulse for air circulation is a necessary condition, without which a residential building will not be put into operation.

However, in private construction, the organization of air exchange is often remembered only with the appearance of unpleasant odors and fungal mold on the walls. A well-designed ventilation scheme in a private home will help solve this problem.

In this material we will talk about the features of natural and forced ventilation and the principles of its functioning. And also about how to correctly design an air exchange system in a private house.

The use of modern materials and various external enclosing structures of a cottage/house in construction complicates the natural air exchange between rooms and the street, and sometimes even blocks it. Thanks to internal and installed plastic windows, buildings become airtight.

Such measures help preserve heat and save energy resources, but greatly impede the flow of fresh air. To correct this typical situation, it is necessary to organize an effective air circulation system.

In a building, ventilation is needed so that fresh air regularly enters the bathroom, bedroom, living room and kitchen, not through open windows and doors, but through special devices - anemostats and air diffusers.

According to generally accepted sanitary and hygienic standards, a properly functioning ventilation system is a mandatory element of the engineering equipment of all residential buildings

A constant flow of air into the house will provide comfortable conditions for long-term living of people and maintenance of plants, as well as for the full functioning of all technical systems.

Ventilation is also necessary to maintain optimal environmental parameters for the safe operation of various building structures, wooden furniture and interior items.

The circulation of air flows must be organized not only in living rooms, but also in utility rooms - bathrooms and toilets, in the kitchen, in the boiler room, etc.

A high-quality ventilation system helps quickly remove excess moisture and heat. Along with the exhaust air, harmful microorganisms, accumulated dirt and dust are simultaneously removed from the premises.

That is why it is important, even at the design stage of a residential building, to think through all the details of the utility network: to make it more powerful than in other rooms, to correctly select the functional elements of the ventilation system in order to ensure an optimal level of oxygen in the interior.

Methods for organizing air exchange in the house

There are different ways to ensure air exchange in a residential building - from periodic short-term opening of doors and windows to installing multifunctional systems for preparing and delivering clean air to each room.

From the point of view of ventilation, a healthy and comfortable atmosphere in the house is formed not only due to the composition of the air. Its temperature, uniformity of distribution and mobility play an important role.

The influx of cool air can create a powerful convection current, which will be perceived by humans as an unpleasant draft. As a result, even at normal temperatures the room will be uncomfortable.

In old brick buildings, ventilation and aeration were provided by special vents left during the construction of a residential building

The ventilation system in the cottage kitchen, made from wooden beams, also seemed as simple as possible. Leaky doorways and window blocks contributed to the continuous circulation of air currents in the house.

All these methods are still used today in small one-story buildings. There is quite enough natural air ventilation there. But if we talk about large and spacious private houses, then it is impossible to do without additionally installed central air conditioners and fans.

Types of ventilation systems

According to the basic requirements of hygienic and sanitary standards, the ventilation performance of any type should be:

3 m 3 per hour per 1 square meter of area for living rooms;
25 m 3 for separate sanitary facilities;
50 m 3 for sanitary facilities.

The amount of fresh air that needs to be supplied to different rooms depends on a number of other factors - the number of people, the nature and frequency of work performed, the concentration of harmful substances.

In residential premises, 35 m3 of air is introduced per adult, for children under 10 years of age the norm is 15-20 m3 per hour, for children slightly older - 25 m3.

A designed ventilation scheme in compliance with these parameters will guarantee a regular, stable flow of fresh air and comfortable living in a private home.

There are three types of air exchange systems:

natural- with natural stimulation of air flow circulation;
mechanical- with forced air intake and exhaust;
combined- with partial use of mechanical exhaust and natural intake of fresh air masses.

It is necessary to organize a continuous automatic supply of clean air in the house. Only the intensity of inflow and removal can change.

But on the other hand, the forced mechanisms involved greatly simplify the ventilation of residential and auxiliary premises.

Read about how to correctly calculate the ventilation system for a home.

Natural ventilation in the house

To organize natural air exchange, the concept of vertical ventilation ducts is used. One end is mounted indoors, and the other is brought out slightly above the roof of the building.

Since the air temperature in the house usually differs from the outside temperature, warm currents gradually rise through the exhaust duct. A fresh portion enters the rooms from the external space through window and door blocks.

Among the main advantages of such a system are simplicity and minimal costs for arrangement, saturation of rooms with natural air, and independence from electricity.

But there are also significant disadvantages. Thus, natural ventilation in a private building will only work until the air temperature outside exceeds 12 degrees Celsius. At high rates, the hood will not be able to work fully.

At first glance, this situation seems ideal for winter, but there is a drawback that simply cannot be ignored. If there is a significant temperature difference between the outside and indoor air, the system will start working faster. All the heat will literally fly freely into the chimney.

Therefore, residents of cottages and private houses spend more energy resources on heating than normal climatic conditions require.

To organize a ventilation system of this type, separate air ducts are laid from each utility room into a common shaft. From the kitchen you need to lay two channels - one from the exhaust grille under the ceiling, and the other from the kitchen hood.

It is also necessary to pay special attention to all rooms completely/partially located below ground level in the house. Toxic radon accumulates in them. To reduce the amount of dangerous gas, a powerful exhaust duct should be installed.

In addition, you need to take care of reliable waterproofing of the basement. After all, even the most effective supply and exhaust system will not cope with its tasks if the basement of a private house or cottage is always damp.

How can you improve efficiency?

There are several ways to help improve the performance of a naturally driven air exchange system:

install a special valve at the entrance to the channel;
install grilles with valves on the inflow and outflow channels;
use a deflector.

The valve, equipped with automation, responds to even slight changes in air humidity. It is mounted at the entrance to the air duct inside the building. When the humidity in the room increases, the automatic relay is activated and the internal valve opens the channel more.

If the indicators decrease, the device closes the entrance. The sensitive element is a sensor that picks up signals from the environment. It is installed outside the house.

In winter, the valve must be additionally closed. This will minimize the entry of cold air into the residential building. However, installing such a device will not cover all the shortcomings of natural ventilation.

Exhaust ventilation ducts are installed in the main internal walls of the building. It is advisable to combine air ducts into small groups so that the passage through the roof is organized in one pipe

Another effective method is to install grilles with valves on the channels for the inflow and removal of air masses. They can only be controlled manually. The valve position must be adjusted at least once a season, when the outside air temperature changes.

Wind can also increase draft in exhaust vertical ducts. To use natural force, a deflector is placed on the top of the pipe - a special device that protects the air duct from debris and precipitation, and also increases draft.

The use of a deflector allows you to increase the performance of the chimney/ventilation duct by 20%

The deflector splits one air stream into two or even more at different speeds. It creates a vacuum, which, in turn, increases the pressure drop in the pipe. As a result, the duct extracts exhaust air better.

Features of forced air exchange

If natural ventilation does not provide complete air renewal, a powerful supply and exhaust system is installed in a private house.

It helps balance the air currents that circulate between rooms and the outside environment continuously. Such ventilation guarantees a stable supply of purified fresh air and removal of contaminated air.

Description of mechanical ventilation option

Modern multifunctional supply and exhaust ventilation units make maximum use of the energy of the supplied air flows and convert it into heat.

Such systems deeply clean the supply air, completely filtering it from dust, various allergens, bacteria and other harmful microorganisms.

Additional processing is created using filtration equipment, highly effective noise absorbers, ionization and humidification devices, and sometimes flavoring devices are used.

Air flows that have been processed are distributed throughout the house through special ventilation ducts. Prepared clean air enters the bedroom and children's room, office, living room, kitchen and bathrooms, auxiliary rooms, and is removed from there by an exhaust system

The functional elements of a system with forced air exchange are filters and recuperators, fans, hoods, control devices and, directly, the ventilation unit.

Built-in electronics make it possible to selectively set optimal user operating modes of the system in terms of temperature and humidity, and over time. Remote controls and smart controllers greatly simplify operation.

Mechanical ventilation helps prevent the formation of unpleasant odors in the kitchen, prevents the appearance of dampness and the spread of multi-colored mold, solves the problem of constant humidity in the bathroom and condensation on the surface of the heated floor, double-glazed windows, and door blocks.

Powerful units with integrated filters, special noise absorbers and heaters take up a lot of space. To place them, you need to free up space in the attic or basement of a private house

Modern multifunctional forced ventilation systems are often combined with intelligent control and monitoring systems. Such measures optimize the operation of the equipment of all installed engineering systems in the house and make it possible to organize user-friendly remote control of equipment via the Internet.

Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery

In schemes with heat recovery, a stationary supply and exhaust unit is responsible for air exchange in the building. Air from the environment enters the system, after which it is cleaned of dust and impurities by a filter and sent for main heating to the recuperator.

The air masses are heated electrically to the required temperature and distributed throughout the house through durable galvanized steel ventilation ducts.

A heat recovery system will ensure high air quality in a residential building all year round. At low speeds of operating fans, supply and exhaust stationary units operate almost silently.

Automation makes it possible to flexibly control the operation of equipment: regulate air flow, set a comfortable temperature, change the speed of air flows.

Recuperation is the rational use of thermal energy of exhaust air for subsequent heating of supply air. This allows you to reduce up to 85% of heat costs for heating the air flow from the external environment in winter

Maintenance of such an installation consists of regularly changing filters. It is recommended to replace new elements for purifying air from dust once a quarter.

System without heat recovery

To organize functional supply and exhaust ventilation without an air recuperator, several exhaust systems and a central supply unit are used at once. Street air is heated or cooled, then purified in a filter, after which it is distributed through a network of channels to living rooms.

Removal of waste heavy air masses is carried out using hoods in utility and technical premises. Such systems are made partly natural and partly forced. They operate due to natural draft and thanks to duct fans.

Supply and exhaust circuits without heat recovery provide heating and purification of the air entering the house, but spend a large amount of energy on the constant processing of air flows.

Combined system type

Combined ventilation is implemented mainly in the form of a scheme with natural inflow and mechanical, that is, forced, exhaust of waste masses.

Fresh air enters the rooms through valves due to the vacuum created by exhaust fans. In this case, preliminary heating of the supply air masses is not performed. But this is not a problem if you install a correctly selected heating element under the valve - an open radiator.

Mechanical exhaust in a private house is performed by fans, usually duct fans. There may be several of them, but sometimes one is enough.

To ensure efficient air circulation, exhaust fans must run continuously. In order to save energy resources, speed controllers with automatic/manual control are connected to the system.

The flow of air flow into the house is organized in a natural way. To do this, use wall or special window supply valves. The design of such devices does not provide for the presence of moving elements

Experts characterize combined ventilation as functional, relatively inexpensive and easy to use. You won't need a lot of space to install related equipment. In addition, all functional elements require minimal maintenance.

Among the disadvantages of the combined type of system, it is worth noting the lack of filtration and heating of the supply air, as well as minimum air exchange rates.

Rules for drawing up a ventilation project

The full operation of the ventilation system directly depends on the accurate calculation of technical parameters and a well-designed design for the circulation of air flows in the house.

Developing a layout of equipment and pipe routing makes it possible to include channels for exhausting stale air into the project. In addition, it will be convenient to adjust the height of the ceilings in the rooms, taking into account the additional space for laying outgoing pipes.

Calculation of ventilation and aspiration must be carried out at the stage of architectural planning of a residential property

If you install ventilation during the redevelopment/reconstruction of a building, you need to specially groove the walls for ventilation ducts or install massive attached shafts, which do not look aesthetically pleasing at all.

It is at the stage of engineering design of the air exchange system that basic technical solutions are determined:

method of air flow distribution in the house;
type of ventilation and exhaust shafts;
availability of filtration equipment.

However, when calculating the ventilation system, infiltration is not taken into account, since the contribution to the circulation of air flows is negligible.

Some building materials and enclosing structures can allow air to pass through without special devices. This process is called active natural infiltration, which must be taken into account when developing a heating scheme for a house.

The air quality in residential and utility rooms is influenced by many factors. When developing a ventilation project, in addition to the design features of a private structure, various generally accepted standards and objective indicators are taken into account. The personal preferences of the home owner and the available budget also play an important role in this process.

The design of ventilation systems is carried out according to the following plan:

At the initial stage, technical specifications are drawn up.
The second step is choosing the optimal air exchange concept in a private home.
The next stage is the development of a diagram with calculation of the level of noise created by ventilation, calculation of the cross-section and selection of air ducts with the required parameters.
Next comes the preparation of the drawing for approval by the customer.
The last stage is the final design and delivery of the finished ventilation scheme.

It is necessary to exclude situations where, in order to carry out repair work or periodically inspect equipment, it is necessary to dismantle parts of building structures or decorative finishing. Therefore, it is better to place filters, heaters, fans and other system components in a special technical room.

This will also solve the problem of organizing effective noise insulation of an operating ventilation unit.

If you do not follow templates, but develop an individual concept for arranging ventilation for a specific construction project, you can ensure a stable supply of clean air to all interior spaces and exhaust of polluted air.

When developing a ventilation scheme, you need to focus on some technical features:

the volumes of exhaust and supply air masses must be balanced;
fresh and clean air is supplied only to living rooms, and exhaust air is removed from utility rooms;
It is not allowed to combine exhaust hoods from the kitchen and bathroom into one ventilation duct;
the air flow speed in exhaust pipes and main air ducts should not exceed 6 m/s. At the exit from the grate, the maximum indicator is 3 m/s;
ventilation shafts that run along the street must be insulated with insulating materials at least 5 cm thick.

The correct approach to the circulation of air masses will help create a favorable and comfortable microclimate in the house.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The video explains why ventilation is needed in every private house and why mixing of supply and exhaust air flows should not be allowed:

This video clearly shows how to properly organize the inflow and evacuation of air with the natural ventilation scheme of a country house:

In spacious country houses it is better to entrust it to professionals. After all, the installed system must not only work, but also cope with planned tasks.

Properly equipped ventilation will solve the problems of standing air and the unpleasant feeling of mustiness in a private home.

It is difficult to call a cottage without an effective ventilation system comfortable to live in. The flow of fresh air into it from outside must be constant and sufficient, otherwise the microclimate in the rooms will become unfavorable.

Ventilation in a private house is done according to one of two schemes - with natural or forced draft. Moreover, it is quite possible to install it yourself. But in some cases the project will have to be ordered from professionals.

There are simplified calculations for air exchange devices in low-rise residential buildings, but they are not always suitable. Here you need to be as careful as possible to do everything correctly.

Types of ventilation systems

All variations of ventilation systems are divided into two types:

Natural.
Forced (controlled, mechanical).

The first assume the absence of any mechanical means of circulating air masses throughout the house. In this case, everything happens thanks to natural draft formed due to the difference in pressure and temperature at different points of the ventilation system. The operation of the latter, on the contrary, is due to the presence in their composition of air fans in the exhaust or supply direction.

What is the difference between natural and forced ventilation?

Natural

To create natural ventilation in a private house, you only need to make vents in its walls and create an exhaust ventilation duct. This option is the simplest and fastest to implement. It is enough to provide openings for air inlet and outlet even at the construction stage of the cottage. And if the building has already been built, then doing them in wall structures is also not too difficult.

Among the advantages of natural ventilation, it is worth highlighting:

low cost of installation;

high reliability and complete energy independence of the system;

no need for complex maintenance;

quiet operation.

Natural ventilation will not stop working during power outages. There are no mechanisms in it that can break at the wrong moment or make noise during operation.

Natural ventilation using ventilation shafts

Disadvantages of a natural draft ventilation system include:

lack of filtration and purification of air masses from dust, odors and pollen;

increased noise in the house due to the presence of additional holes in the walls;

the difficulty of adjusting ventilation according to the volume of air exchange;

an increase in heat consumption for heating premises in winter due to the entry of large volumes of cold air from the street;

dependence of thrust on external atmospheric factors.

This ventilation scheme is recommended to be used when the cottage is located far from highways and in a clean area. That is, where there is no need for additional purification of the supply street air and there is no strong noise. In most other cases, it is worth taking a closer look at the option with a fan.

Natural ventilation in a house with an attic

Forced

In contrast to natural ventilation, forced ventilation in a private house is more effective and is capable of controlling not only temperature but also humidity in the room. However, it costs much more and requires constant power supply. The main element of such a system is a fan in one form or another.

Among the advantages of forced draft ventilation are:

the ability to accurately adjust power and configure other system characteristics separately for each room;
the ability to automatically control, in addition to temperature, the humidity and purity of room air;
autonomous operation of the equipment without the need for constant manual adjustment;
stability of air exchange throughout the house and in each room separately;
the presence of an option for heating street air due to recovery or an electric heating element.

The forced option allows you to more accurately control all microclimate parameters in the rooms. However, you will have to pay for this not only with higher costs during the construction phase, but also with costs later during operation.

Forced ventilation in a private house

The disadvantages of forced ventilation at home include:

the need for power supply and its costs;
high price of equipment;
additional financial costs for mandatory maintenance of electrical equipment;
increased requirements for the quality of calculations and design.

The main nuance of this option is the dependence on electricity. If the power supply is turned off, the fan will stop working and the entire system will be of no use. If the voltage in the network regularly disappears in the village, then when installing ventilation of this type, it is necessary to take care of an uninterruptible power supply in advance.

Ventilation schemes

The scheme for organizing forced ventilation in a private house can be:

supply air (the fan works to supply air to the rooms);
exhaust (the fan draws air outside);
combined supply and exhaust.

In the first two cases, the system consists of a ventilation duct (for exhaust or supply) with a fan and filters, which is supplemented with vents or air ducts for natural air flow. And in the third, ventilation is built from two ventilation ducts, each with its own blower.

Air flows in a private house

Supply

With supply ventilation, air is taken from the street, cleaned and heated or cooled as needed, and only then supplied to the premises. It exits outside the cottage through regular exhaust air ducts and through window sill vents. That is, it is mechanically pumped inside, and it goes outside on its own in a natural way through ventilation holes, doors and windows.

In the simplest scheme, such a system consists of one fan in a utility room and several ventilation ducts from this utility room to each living room. This option allows you to minimize noise from operating equipment and greatly simplifies calculations.

Air exchange in the house in the supply ventilation

If ventilation is installed in a small private house, then the method of its organization described above is the most optimal. It is enough to correctly calculate the required air exchange and fan power.

Installing ventilation afterwards is unlikely to cause any difficulties. Air ducts for it are usually made of flexible corrugated pipes of the appropriate diameter. And ventilation equipment with all filters, ionizers, etc. purchased as a ready-made installation. It will only need to be secured in the chosen location and connected to the ventilation ducts.

Supply valve in a private house

Exhaust

In exhaust ventilation, everything happens the other way around. The flow of fresh air into the house occurs naturally. For this purpose, vents and ventilation shafts with holes in the walls are installed. But the used air masses are forcibly drawn out of the rooms using a mechanical hood with a fan.

The main disadvantage of this option is that cold from the street is drawn into the house during the winter along with fresh air coming from outside. If the cottage is built in an area with a cold climate and low winter temperatures, then this moment will have to be compensated for by a large volume of heat from heaters. And this means additional heating costs.

However, if the flow of cold street air is not allowed through the vents directly in the external walls, but through the underground, then it will warm up a little on the way to the living rooms. And the problem will not be so serious. But when designing, it is extremely important to calculate this issue and provide for everything in advance.

Design features of exhaust ventilation

Supply and exhaust

The combined version consists of two forced subsystems. One is used for air supply, and the second for exhaust. They can be separated, each on its own, and intersecting in the recuperator.

This is the most difficult ventilation to design and install. It requires complex calculations and a large number of air ducts. However, by using it, the owner of the cottage guarantees himself the most comfortable microclimate in his home. This system allows you to automatically control all parameters of room air. It is not for nothing that it is often chosen as one of the elements of a “smart home”.

To reduce the cost of heating air drawn in from the street in winter, supply and exhaust ventilation is usually supplemented with a recuperator. It takes some of the heat from the masses drawn out of the cottage and gives it back to those coming from outside. This greatly reduces heating costs, since almost all the thermal energy remains in the home and does not leave it.

How to equip supply and exhaust ventilation in a private house

Preparation for installation of ventilation in a private house

Proper ventilation is one that is correctly designed at the very beginning. Errors made in the calculations will later be either practically impossible or too expensive to correct. It’s better to do everything according to all the rules from the beginning.

You can use a variety of materials for cladding the base. There are no special building codes here. But the design for a ventilation system or a pile foundation must be calculated in compliance with the mass of SNiPs and GOSTs. Otherwise, the cottage will not stand for a long time or living in it will simply be uncomfortable.

When designing home ventilation, you should consider:

The presence of a stove or fireplace in the room.
The cubic capacity of each room and the cottage as a whole.
Number of residents.
The need to integrate air filters into the system and their type.
Individual architectural features of the building and much more.

According to standards, in the residential premises of a cottage, the entire volume of air must be changed at least once per hour (the air exchange rate is “1”). For utility rooms, basements and corridors, this coefficient is reduced to “0.2”.

In the kitchen, the air should change at a speed of 60–100 m3/hour, depending on the type of stove. Moreover, if the latter is gas, then replacement should be carried out with a frequency of at least three times per hour according to the volume of the kitchen space. In bathrooms and toilets, the air exchange should be 25–50 m3/hour.

Forced exhaust ventilation in the kitchen

For intra-house sewerage, ventilation is arranged separately by removing the ventilation pipe from a common riser. It is also separately recommended to install a ventilation duct for the hood above the kitchen stove. Moreover, it is impossible to connect the air duct from it and from the bathroom in the same shaft. This can lead to sewer odor escaping into the kitchen.

When preparing the project, it is also necessary to take into account the size of the ventilation ducts and their throughput, the power of the heating system and the dimensions of the fans. There will be a lot of parameters to calculate. And all of them must be accurate and error-free, otherwise the ventilation efficiency will not be as desirable.

For a small one-story house with several rooms, you can make a similar calculation yourself. You need to take the cubic capacity of the rooms and multiply it by the appropriate coefficients, plus add the air exchange volumes for the kitchen and toilet.

However, it is better to order a ventilation project for a large house from specialists in this field with relevant engineering knowledge. Here the cost of an error can be too high.

DIY ventilation

Having a ready-made project in hand, installing ventilation in a private house yourself is not so difficult. Ventilation ducts are assembled from corrugated pipes or individual metal or PVC elements of rectangular cross-section. All this just needs to be put together as a constructor.

To simplify the installation of air ducts, the following are now available:

channels of different lengths and sections;
a variety of connectors with and without built-in valves;
knees with different rotation angles;
tees and transitions;
vent grates;
holders and hangers.

All this must be connected to each other and to a ventilation unit, duct fan or recuperator. There should be a minimum of difficulties.

Ventilation diagram in a private house

Installation is carried out step by step in the following order:

The holes in the walls and partitions are marked, where the ventilation ducts will run according to the plan.
The centerlines of future air ducts are drawn on the walls and ceiling, indicating turns and branches.
The installation location of the ventilation unit is marked (for a forced system).
Drilling of walls is carried out, as well as fastening of suspensions and brackets.
The channels are cut and connected to each other, the joints are fixed with self-tapping screws and the entire structure is subsequently secured to the holders.
Ventilation lines are connected to the equipment.
Diffusers and grilles are installed.
The ventilation equipment is connected to the electrical network and the system is tested.

To protect air duct outlets from debris and precipitation on the street, caps, nets and deflectors are mounted on them. At the same time, outdoor sections of ventilation ducts, shafts and pipes are subject to insulation. If this is not done, then condensation will form in them, which will inevitably lead to problems.

It is not difficult to make ventilation in your cottage yourself. If you have a project with a specification of the required materials and a plan, then there should not be any special difficulties.

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