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The main types of lubricants used in Hewlett Packard laser printers.
1. Lubricating gears of gearboxes, where the latter rotate at average speed under temperatures up to 80 °C. The load on the gears is uniformly rotating. In this regard, HP lubricant works perfectly. This lubricant is not commercially available. Instead, various lubricants are sold that satisfy the assigned tasks by 50 - 70%. As a rule, sellers have no idea what they are selling, what properties and durability their product has.
2. Thermal film lubricants. HP uses a unique lubricant that is perfectly matched to the application. The lubricant does not flow, has negligible viscosity, does not evaporate, and does not lose its mechanical and chemical properties over the course of years. The thermal film rotates solely due to the pressure of the Teflon-coated rubber shaft and does not have any gears. Works at temperatures up to 240 degrees, has several main types. Lubricant for thermal films is a separate topic. It's not possible to buy it. The Russian market offers either mediocre lubricants that can work for a limited time at temperatures up to 200 degrees or simply an outright surrogate, after which blurred images appear, paper jams in the oven, image repetitions, and others. Typically, after 700 - 1200 copies, such a lubricant turns brown, becomes sticky, viscous and slows down the rotation of the thermal film.
3. Lubricant used in heater gears (image fusing units). This is the most difficult case. Gears operate with vector or directional load. In addition, gears operate under sudden temperature changes and at speeds much higher than average. From 20 to 120 degrees. HP uses the same lubricants as in point 1. This approach is fundamentally wrong. The lubricant is squeezed out from the teeth and the gears operate no more than 50 - 70,000 copies. The problems with these lubricants are clearly shown in Fig. 1, Fig. 2.
4. Lubricants of bushings, bearings, Teflon-rubber shafts of stoves. Hewlett Packard, as a rule, does not use any lubricants in the bushings of fusing units. In modern high-speed laser printers, this leads to the fact that after 30 - 60 thousand copies, the bushing is eaten away by 1 - 2 mm, the rubber shaft sags, the film falls to one side and eats up its edge. The gears begin to work at the edges of the teeth with a lot of noise, turning into a loud crack. The printer breaks down and requires repair.
The Oltar company offers the following types of lubricants for printers.
1. For lubricating gears of gearboxes, as well as for lubricating oscillating units of stoves and gears of rubber shafts of fusing units - Molykote EM-50L grease.
Unlike conventional lubricants, the proposed lubricant works up to 150 degrees Celsius, does not thicken over time, is not afraid of temperature changes and does not lose its properties over time. This lubricant can be used on both plastic and metal gears.
2. Lubricant for thermal films of printers, both polymer and aluminum. Lubricant type - Molykote HP-300 Grease. The lubricant works at temperatures up to 280 degrees, does not evaporate, and does not change physical and chemical properties over time. The lubricant does not become sticky and does not slow down the movement of the thermal film, the image is not blurred. The lubricant is universal and can be used both in home-class printers such as HP LJ 1012, and in powerful modern printers such as HP LJ P4515 with a printing speed of 45 sheets per minute. The lubricant is also good because even if the thermal film is punctured, it continues to work. Then, under the influence of toner, other lubricants begin to crystallize and cut the rotating film from the inside.
The lubricant is excellent for bushing rubber shafts of printer stoves; it does not corrode plastic bushings and does not introduce additional heating into the aluminum printer shafts rotating under the influence of high temperatures. The lubricant does not destroy the protective layer - aluminum oxide!
It's better to find real lubricants like
O-2 (liquid yellow) (shaft),
O-12 (transparent liquid (more viscous than O-12)) (gear axles),
G-26 (thick white) (shaft (rubbing), gears),
G-58 (dense pink) (gears, etc.)
If it is not possible to get such things -
The ideal liquid lubricants are: silicone grease, Teflon oil
from thick ones (lithols will not work - they are quite reactive) - as already mentioned - honey Vaseline
;) I’ll add FreeKnight to the answer But this is how I do it myself:
O-2 (liquid yellow) (shaft) - high-speed coolers and Epson shafts - matrix and jet (felt impregnation under P/G, 5-6 drops along the length of the shaft)
O-12 (transparent liquid (more viscous than O-2)) (gear axles) - I don’t know, we have WHITE GREASE, MOLYKOTE X5-6020, UKOG-0158FCZZ this is a silicone lubricant, for low-speed coolers, shafts, etc. .
G-26 (thick white) (shaft (by rubbing), gears) - yes, but I don’t use it.
G-58 (thick pink) (gears, etc.) - yes, movement (fastening) and sliding of the Epson C42-84 carriage, etc.
GuestYura_*
Has anyone encountered this kind of "fuel oil"?
SP5539 / 284 g
Silicone grease STEP UP
Water-repellent, heat-resistant, universal protection for metal, rubber and plastic. Forms on the treated surface a thin, ultra-slippery corrosion-resistant protective layer with 100% water-repellent properties, operational from -50°C to +220°C. Contains WetOut silicone moisture displacer. Finds active use in everyday life: lubricates, protects locks, door and window hinges from freezing and corrosion. Used as a universal lubricant for motorcycles, bicycles and household appliances. Gives water-repellent properties to shoes.
It burns, when applied it quickly evaporates, and it is also written on the bottle that it should not be used to lubricate electric motors. I’m wondering whether it’s worth lubricating the shaft with it or not: -X
For testing, I lubricated the guide on the roller cutter with it, the impressions were most favorable, there was no lubricant as such (it had evaporated), but the handle glides perfectly.
I figure it like this:
The most problematic area in an inkjet printer is the guide rod (or guide rail). Due to the ingress of dust, the lubricant turns into an abrasive that must be removed from time to time. It is better to lubricate with silicone-based lubricants (thick) if the PG bushings are not bronze-graphite.
The rest is not worth smearing. It seems to me that there is enough lubricant there for the entire actual service life.
@)-->-- I will allow myself to disagree with YuKha in the aspect “The rest is not worth smearing. It seems to me that there is enough lubricant there for the entire actual service life.” Printers are brought in for repairs where the lubricant is made of soft pink and soft blue colors turns into gray-dirty colors and begins to creak noticeably, I won’t say 100% accurately, but there are grains of sand, and just working off the guides.
And when you clean the whole thing and re-lubricate it, everything becomes much better. All printers without CISS. ;)
GuestYura_*
In those places where the factory grease remained, it thickened, so I removed it and sprayed it with silicone, it seems like the printer began to work more smoothly when the paper was pulled and the pump was working: -X. Plus, this fuel oil cleans, i.e. it first washes away dirt and then evaporates, forming that same “Super-slippery protective layer.” I wanted to lubricate the shaft with it precisely because it would not collect dust, but after several photographs of the A4, creaking appeared, in short, for these purposes you still need thick lubricant.
I don’t know how the printer works, but the cutter that I treated with this silicone definitely works better :)
@)-->-- I repeat myself, but still
O-2 (liquid yellow) (shaft) - high-speed coolers and Epson shafts - matrix and jet (felt impregnation under P/G, 5-6 drops along the length of the shaft).
After first removing the remaining old grease with a dry cloth (I use lint-free ones for optics from copiers). And I wipe it with alcohol so that it is completely clean. Next, I remove the felt from under the carriage, the one between the shaft and the carriage, turn it over, put 2-3 drops on it and collect it. And everything becomes as good as new, white and fluffy. IMHO! And so on until next time, or until you change the shaft, carriage or head, who knows. @)-->--
I would not like to go into terminology again, although it should be clarified that the word “cooler” means cooler. Usually, this is a radiator-fan combination. In life, this combination cannot be high-speed. :)
This is my only comment on TuMyPuK's post.
Otherwise I agree with him. Half. :)
......................
There is something to talk about in the topic, argue, sort of, but I have a request to the mega-moderator: consider removing the punishment from previously “distinguished” participants.
@)-->-- YuHa, thanks for the support and for “There is something to talk about in the topic, argue, like, but I have a request to the mega-moderator: consider lifting the punishment from previously “distinguished” participants.” But After all, there are rules, and I am a violator of them, and the “flags” will be removed around the 16th, so I’m not worried about it. Naturally, “cooler” meant FAN, but thanks for the note. With this “O-2” lubricant I lubricate fan impeller rods in plain bearings at speeds of more than 2500 rpm, such as Thermaltake. Because some of these bastards spin at 5500 rpm. Whoever heard it spread will not forget! For example, on power supply fans I use MOLYKOTE X5-6020 in a 50g can. Silicone, as stated, does not dry out, in fact, it has been used in my power supply for 2 years.
TuMyPuK, my computer uses the boxed version of the fourth Pentium.
Four years - no fan lubrication. Previously there was a Pentium second, then a third. Also boxing. And I also didn’t bother with lubrication.
I try to buy additional fans with ROLLING bearings. A little more noise, but fewer problems.
As for the names of “branded” lubricants, the situation is similar with “branded” inks - you can’t find a “firm” in the village, and what is offered under the “company” usually doesn’t turn out to be that.
Having joined YuKhi’s post, I would like to ask a question:
“Since you won’t find a company in the village,” then such lubricants, as described here, cannot be found during the day... And my R220 printer, 2 months old, whistled when the carriage moved, and continues to do so... the lubricant is noticeable in places, where the carriage stops... but then why does this squeak occur? What can you lubricate with? In principle, it does not really interfere, but the creaking does not just appear and does not go away without leaving a trace.
I tried to find silicone grease or a spindle in our village - also a disastrous task: (Lithols, as was written at the beginning of the topic, are destructive.
@)-->-- JUHA - with all due respect. BOX fans from Intel are a thing that lasts almost the entire life of the computer. They are not intended for additional lubrication. There is a composite lubricant there for the entire service life, just like sealed bearings. And, I agree, they are less noisy. We are talking about lubricants for shafts and guides. So we ourselves also do not live in Moscow and Zip-Zip is not around the corner. But still, everyone in the city has those who deal with copying equipment! So can I ask them or order through them? The guys in the services are usually accommodating if you ask them in a human way! Or am I wrong? >:o
Modern types of plastics and polymers make it possible to use them not only as seals, but also to make gears from them. This presents engineers with many opportunities, but also many challenges. The main problem was the lack of suitable lubricants. Conventional products intended for metal are not suitable, as they can corrode the plastic and change its structure and physical properties. Therefore, special types of funds have been developed. Lubricant for plastic gears allows you to achieve the necessary lubricating properties, protect the material from external factors and ensure minimal friction.
Features of using lubricant for plastic gearsMany people believe that if gears are made of plastic, they do not require lubrication. Unfortunately, this often leads to damage and premature wear of the mechanisms. Plastic lubricant should be used for almost all types of plastic gears, as it provides the following functions:
There is a misconception that plastic gears can be lubricated with conventional lubricants. This is strictly forbidden, as there may be negative consequences.
Even universal formulations cannot guarantee high efficiency. Exposure of plastics to conventional mixtures may have the following effects:
Today, plastic gears are used in various fields:
Lubricants for plastic gears intended for medical and food equipment require special attention, since they are subject to not only mechanical requirements, but also hygienic ones.
How to choose?Before buying oil, you need to study all the varieties, determine what it is needed for and make sure that it meets the following requirements:
When choosing a lubricant, it is important to consider the type of operating mechanisms and the conditions under which they operate. Taking this into account, several types can be distinguished:
To lubricate plastic gears, it is best to choose compounds from global brands that have specialized in developing compounds for many decades. Among the most common are the following: