Attic stairs: types of structures and design options. Convenient stairs to the attic in the house: types of structures Stairs to the attic in a private house

Water bodies 26.06.2020
Water bodies

What should be the stairs to the attic? If you are a betman, and your wife is a fabulous fairy with wings, you will conquer any peak and take off to the attic floor without any problems. Oh yes! Perhaps you are a thrill-seeker, then the rope ladder to the attic will suit you - an unforgettable attraction for the strong and brave. For people who are not looking for easy ways, the attached design is just right, because balancing on the edge, and even with a cup of coffee, is so breathtaking!

Our article is for people who are used to taking care of their comfort and safety, so they just need a comfortable, practical and compact staircase to the attic. Next, we will discuss in detail how to make an attic staircase with our own hands, what design and what materials are appropriate for such structures, we will offer several diagrams, drawings and photos with step-by-step instructions, videos will help you understand the nuances of the device of attic stairs.

Where to install the ladder

There are two ways to get to the attic floor of the house - from the street and from the inside. The internal structure of the stairs to the attic is more convenient, you do not need to go outside, this is especially true in the cold season. But sometimes a separate entrance to the attached floor is required in order to maintain the isolation of the room, if there is a bedroom in the attic, or to eliminate the disturbance of households, then an external staircase leading to the attic is installed along the wall of the house.

An external staircase to the attic is installed for a separate entrance to the upper floor in order to clearly delineate the premises, or when there is no space inside the house

Advice: A street staircase to the attic floor has a significant drawback, intruders can enter the house through it, therefore it is recommended to install strong doors, or provide a staircase to the attic from the veranda.

Often a tower is attached to the house in order to place a staircase to the attic floor in it. Such a solution can become an architectural highlight in the arrangement of the attic with great practical benefit - saving useful living space.

Mansard stairs, photo of 2 structures that occupy almost the same usable area: on the left - an attraction for the hardy, on the right - a comfortable and safe staircase

Before proceeding with the practical part of the manufacture of an attic staircase, you should think about which structure is advisable to install in the attic and how to position it so as not to lose most of the living space.

Attic staircase

I would like the structure not to clutter up the space, since many houses and summer cottages do not have extra space. The staircase to the attic floor should be at least safe and compact, but comfortable so that descents and ascents do not become a dangerous adventure for residents. This is especially true if small children and elderly people live in the house.

Stair elements

Ladder - hatch

The most compact option for the attic floor is the attic hatch ladder, it folds and retracts behind a cover that smoothly closes the entrance. The mansard staircase is equipped with a spring mechanism, therefore, when opening it, it is enough to pull the hatch down, the spans do not fall, but are neatly laid out, the last flight, as a rule, is deployed manually. The structure is lifted with the help of automation. In some models, the spans are connected in a scissor fashion, they are laid out in one march.

Ladder-hatch to the attic floor, compact, easily transformable, a convenient option when there is no room in the room for stationary flights of stairs

Marching stairs

Classic flight stairs are easy to use, you can make them yourself. The designs differ in the way the steps are attached to the supporting beam: on stringers, on bowstrings or on bolts.

Ladder options

A standard straight, single-flight mansard staircase mounts at an angle. The angle of inclination depends on the height of the ceilings: if the room is low, then the stairs will be steep, it is extremely inconvenient to operate.

The large staircase to the attic is a lightweight, weightless structure, a correctly calculated staircase can withstand the weight of 1800 kg per step, they practically do not exert a load on the supporting structures of the building

Two-, three-flight swivel stairs allow you to make a convenient and safe climb to the attic floor, but they take up a lot of space, you will have to allocate a site in the house, usually such structures are provided when designing the attic floor. This is convenient if the living space allows you to sacrifice a few square meters, but more often the attic is made precisely because of the lack of living space, so it is not always advisable to install such a structure. Usually, the flights of flight stairs are separated by a square platform where you can rest, but sometimes the turning platform is equipped with trapezoidal winders.

Stairs on kosoura are two support boards at an angle, on which the steps are attached

Spiral and involute mansard stairs

The construction of a spiral staircase to the attic floor involves the use of only winding steps. It significantly saves space in the house, but it is possible to stumble on trace-shaped steps, descents and ascents are associated with certain inconveniences. To adapt the structure for use, a stable and comfortable handrail should be installed to hold on to. For children and the elderly, spiral staircases represent a fair amount of risk.

In some cases, only an involute staircase will help to competently organize the entrance to the attic.

Involute stairs are distinguished by a curved kosour, it is very difficult to calculate and make such a structure on your own, but it will harmoniously fit into any shape of the room and, undoubtedly, will become an interior decoration.

A spiral staircase to the attic, the photo clearly demonstrates that such a structure significantly saves space, but a steep rise to the floor and almost triangular steps make it difficult to operate by children and the elderly

Comfortable staircase dimensions

The most comfortable distance between the steps is 150 mm, and the depth is 300 mm, the same depth should be in the middle of the winder steps, these dimensions allow you to effortlessly climb the stairs, leaning on the entire foot. The most comfortable staircase width is 800-1000 mm. With a width of more than 1200 mm, where 2 people freely diverge, it is recommended to install an additional stringer in the middle. For one person, a staircase to the attic floor and 500 mm wide is suitable. The slope of the span for comfortable use should be from 45 o or less.

Table for determining the angle of inclination of marches

According to SNiP standards, including considerations of ergonomics and operational safety:

  • Depth of steps - 250-400 mm;
  • Riser height - 120-220 mm.

The material for manufacturing can be metal, concrete, wood, glass, most often in practice there are combined structures or wooden ones. It depends on the interior design and financial capabilities.

The original design of the attic staircase will become a decoration for the home

Each manufacturing option has its own advantages and disadvantages. A very effective technique for decorating an extension is a shiny metal structure with glass steps. Wooden stairs certainly add luxury, sophistication and solidity to the interior. Metal structures can withstand heavy loads, and if they are decorated with forged steps and railings, the staircase becomes the highlight of your home.

Standards for calculating the slope of the stairs

All-metal stairs inside the house are rarely installed; more often, mansard stairs are made of wood with their own hands, or the frame is made of metal, and the steps are wooden. If the ceiling height is standard, then you can buy a ready-made structure and install it yourself.

Photo, staircase to the attic floor, you can buy ready-made and assemble it yourself, modular structures are adjustable not only in height and width of the steps, but also in the angle of rotation, which allows you to make a straight or swivel staircase to the attic

Advice: The height between each of the steps and the ceiling should be 2 m or more so that even a tall person does not experience discomfort when walking up stairs.

Compact mansard staircase "goose step", the difference in the width of the steps allows you to significantly save space

So that when going up to the floor there is no pressing sensation on the head, the direction of the march should be the same as the direction of the roof slope. Also, if the direction of the march is towards the slope, then the exit will have to be just to the wall.

Incorrect layout of the stairs to the attic, in order to avoid typical mistakes, be sure to draw a diagram

How to build a staircase

A staircase to the attic with your own hands is a responsible task, but quite doable, independent production and installation will significantly save your budget, and the result will certainly become your pride.

The simplest model is a staircase on kosoura, with some imagination, such a structure can turn into an original element of the interior, it is safe and practical if a living room is arranged in the attic.

Ways of attaching steps to stringers

Would need:

  • for kosour glued beams or pine carriage;
  • board for steps, with a thickness of 40 mm, you can buy ready-made;
  • board for risers, thickness - 20 mm (this element of the staircase can be excluded);
  • balusters;
  • railings;
  • fasteners.

Option: cut down treads.

How to make a kosour

The construction of a staircase to the attic begins with the manufacture of a stringer. On the beam intended for the kosour, we make markings - right-angled triangles, in which: the hypotenuse is the edge of the beam, one leg is the height of the riser, the second leg is the depth of the step. We cut out the marked triangles with a circular saw. It is desirable to mill all edges, chamfer 2-6 mm.

Advice: for accurate marking, it is better to use a rigid template-triangle with labels. The template is applied to the stringer, the marks must exactly match the edge of the beam.

How to correctly transfer the dimensions of the steps to the kosour

Installing kosour

Further, the kosour is installed in place. The upper edge adjoins the end of the floor slab or platform, which creates a horizontal bursting force and a vertical load. The method of fastening depends on the thickness of the beams, the strength of the platforms and the design features of the attic staircase.

The fastening of the kosour to the upper beam can be with plunging, without plunging into the upper beam, and with entering under the upper platform, the photo below shows three options:

Fastening the stringer with plunging into the beam

This is the most common and reliable mounting option. The first option assumes a wash down in the support beam, into which the edge of the stringer is inserted. The second option - a rectangular cut is made both in the stringer and in the beam, or an inclined cut is made only in the beam, it must coincide with the slope of the stringer. A gash made in a stringer weakens it, so it cannot be made large.

Kosour without cutting into the beam

Kosour with an approach under the upper platform

In addition to plunging, you can install the stringer on metal fasteners, corners or bolts. This method of fastening is simple and convenient, but possible only for lightweight ladders.

It is also important to provide a solid support for the stringer and its secure fixation in the lower part to avoid shearing. The lower end of the stringer can be attached in two ways.

The first scheme - an angular cutout is made from the bottom of the stringer for the supporting beam, and a corresponding groove is also made in the beam. The stringer cut is inserted into the cut in the structural beam. After that, the kosour is fixed with metal corners, or by vertical tightening with hairpins.

The second scheme - the cut is made in the beam, then the lower corner of the stringer is inserted into the groove. Such an attachment is very tight and reliable due to the expansion, but the cross-section of the support beam must be large enough, since such an attachment weakens the beam.

Methods of lower fastening of the stringer

Important: When making a two-flight staircase, the size and height of the site must be determined. The site is installed before the installation of the stringers. In the walls, mortgages are provided for its fastening. If fastening to the walls is not possible, then support pillars are mounted.

How to fix the steps

It is better to connect risers and treads with glue and screws, the nail connection weakens during the operation of the attic staircase. They are fastened with screws or in a groove. You can also use overhead strips and corners for fastening. Strong and reliable connection - nailless fastening with wooden pins.

Advice: When installing hardwood parts, use softwood dowels and vice versa. Otherwise, the dowel will split the parts.

Ways of fastening steps for a wooden staircase

The edges of the steps should protrude 20-50 mm beyond the riser.

After all the steps are secured, you can install balusters and stair railings.

The article contains informative diagrams, photo and video materials on how to make a staircase to the attic floor with your own hands, be sure to look, perhaps they will give you an idea and push you to solve complex problems in the construction of an attic.

Most often, in order to climb to the attic of a private house, they resort to using retractable or ladders, but this is not always convenient. And the question arises as to how safe it is to climb such a structure. But if you wish, you can make a staircase to the attic with your own hands, spending just a few days. This option will be not only convenient, but also cheaper than purchased in a store.

Ladder location

In order to find the most convenient place, you need to consider the following factors:

  • The best option for placing the entrance is separately in a special room that resembles a small vestibule. This option will allow you to arrange a staircase with convenient dimensions and provide thermal insulation. When the door is closed, the possibility of cold air entering the house from the attic is excluded.
  • If it is not possible to organize a vestibule, then the placement of the stairs is best done at the far wall of the room. This will allow you to move around the room smoothly and save space.
  • A good option would be to organize a hatch before entering the attic. This option, as with the vestibule, will prevent heat loss.
  • The best option in most cases is a single-flight staircase. But in conditions of insufficient space, you can resort to a screw or two-march device.

If the room under the roof is not planned for frequent use, then you can limit yourself to rising to the ceiling and, if necessary, falling down. In addition, you can also make such a ladder yourself.

Payment

When calculating the stairs, the following requirements are taken into account:

  • The width of the stairs should be between 80-100 centimeters.
  • Handrails and railings are installed at a height of 90 centimeters. In this case, do not neglect the installation of handrails. Even if the staircase is between two walls, handrails can make climbing easier and safer.
  • The most convenient ascent angle is determined in the range of 30-45 degrees.

At the same time, for an angle of inclination of 33-37 degrees, the riser should be 16 cm, for 38-42 degrees - 18 cm, at 45 degrees - 20 cm.

  • The optimal dimensions of the riser are 12-20 centimeters, the tread is 30-38 centimeters. It should be remembered that the steeper the rise, the higher the steps.
  • The material chosen for manufacturing must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
  • There should be at least 2 meters from the step to the ceiling, so as not to kill the head when climbing.

To correctly choose the ratio of the riser height (j) to the tread width (e), three formulas are used: convenience, step and safety. In this case, the step formula is the most important. It is important to take into account the correct ratio between the two values ​​(j / e), which is satisfactory for all three formulas - 17/29. The formula for convenience looks like this: e - j = 12 cm; steps: 2j + e = 62 (60-64) cm; safety: e + j = 46 cm

Material selection

It can be made of wood or metal, but welding can be difficult and requires certain skills to make it yourself. Therefore, consider wooden stairs.

Conifers are suitable:

  • Larch and cedar... These breeds have a pleasant appearance, are easily processed and are almost not subject to decay. The downside will be the cost of such wood.
  • Spruce... The material is good in terms of technical characteristics. Claims can only be about appearance. There are often knots on it.
  • Pine... The cost will be cheaper than the others. In addition, the material is easy to process.

Hardwoods are used:

  • Oak... It has the best technical characteristics. Has an excellent appearance.
  • Beech and ash... They have average characteristics.
  • Birch... The material is more economical in cost. In terms of characteristics, it is not inferior to beech. Handles well.

Any type of wood must be well dried. Before purchasing the material, you must make sure that there are no cracks and other defects, including traces of damage by woodworms.

Manufacturing

For a mansard staircase, the option on stringers or bowstrings is best suited... This will reduce labor costs, unlike other types of stairs.

Materials and tools:

  • one or two beams for fastening steps (depending on the type of stairs);
  • circular saw or hacksaw;
  • edged boards for steps 25 mm thick;
  • building level;
  • screws and glue for fastening steps;
  • hammer, screwdriver.

The stringer and the bowstring are a supporting beam on which the steps are attached. They differ in the way of this attachment. It is cut out along the top of the comb, into which the steps are installed. On the bowstring, grooves are used for these purposes, which are cut from the inside of the beams. Solid beams with a cross section of 5x25-30 centimeters are suitable as a material. In this case, you need to know that with a staircase width of more than 120 centimeters, two kosour are used.

The workpiece is planed along its entire length to remove chips and chips... Treads (the horizontal part of the steps) are cut out on the kosoura. This is done with a circular saw or a hacksaw. If you decide to make a ladder on bowstrings, then grooves are cut out in the beams, the size of which corresponds to the side section of the step. Next, the ends of the beam are cut so that they can be installed on the base.

We cut the risers (the vertical part of the step) and treads according to the dimensions from the edged board. To reduce the risk of injury, you can round the corners of the steps.

When the main parts are ready, we start assembling. First, we fix the supporting beams. To do this, we attach its lower part to the rough floor bars. In this case, it may be necessary to dismantle part of the floor covering. To avoid this, equip a small lifting platform. Fastening is made rigidly, fixing the elements with a saw. When installing a ladder, it is important to ensure that the cutouts in the beams are flush. In this case, the cutouts on the stringers can be adjusted using wedges.

When you are convinced that the beams are installed evenly, proceed to. We start with the tread. When mounted on a kosour, the boards are laid, leveled and fastened with screws "in the pot". The screw heads must "sink" in the wood, or they must be closed with a wooden plug. After that, it is cut flush with the plane of the step.

If the installation is carried out on a bowstring, then the treads are inserted into the grooves, having previously greased with glue. Self-tapping screws can be used to provide additional fastening. They are screwed in from the side.

Fastening the risers is not necessary, but if you want to make a full-fledged staircase, then you need to mount them from the inside. To do this, use special brackets or wooden wedges.

After the assembly of the stairs is completed, we proceed to the fastening of the railing, if necessary.... Their installation begins with the installation of a fence around the entrance to the attic floor. Next, we fasten the support pillars. We install one at the bottom, the other at the top. After that, we lay and fix the railing. They are supported with balusters mounted on the steps. Provided that the staircase is located against the wall, you can attach the railings to it.

Finally, it was time for the finishing touches. To do this, you should start with a rough grinding of the finished structure. Then, with the help of a putty, they fill in all the cracks and irregularities. There will be few of them, if you do not make a mistake in size. When the filler is dry, proceed to fine sanding. Further cleaning - it is necessary to remove shavings and wood dust with a vacuum cleaner. The next stage is painting with varnish or interior paint. You can also prime all the elements of the staircase, giving it time to dry.

To climb to the second floor of a private house or an attic, as a rule, there are two options for stairs: spiral and march. We will try to study each of them in more detail and draw the appropriate conclusions that will help to choose the most optimal option.

Peculiarities

Everyone knows that in order to get to the attic, you need a staircase. For this purpose, some owners use a conventional attached structure (step-ladder), but in this case, we don't need to talk about aesthetics. To use the attic room for living, you will not be able to do without a high-quality, beautiful, and, most importantly, a safe staircase. Such a structure can be made of metal or wood and have a very different design.

In some houses, a bathhouse, vestibule or kitchen may be located on the ground floor. There may be several rooms at once or one of them. In this case, it is necessary to make careful calculations so that the ladder in no way interferes with free movement and does not take up too much space. You also need to take into account that the staircase should not block the sunlight, otherwise the room will be too dark. Its location should be as practical as possible.

For the competent use of living space and saving space, the staircase should be as comfortable as possible. Moreover, it should be in harmony with the general interior of the house and have a safe lift.

A sloping staircase in a small house takes up a lot of space, so this option is usually used in spacious buildings. Even its bulky design will not prevent sunlight from entering the room without hindrance and will not interfere with the movement of residents.

If the house is small, then the best option would be a staircase with a steep structure, its arrangement is not very complicated. Such a staircase is less comfortable in comparison with a flat one, but it makes it easy to move around the house, and the entrance to it is very convenient. A spiral staircase (spiral) is considered the most economical and rational option, because it takes up little space and can radically transform any house.

Kinds

As you already know, the main types of attic stairs are marching and screw structures. Let's take a closer look at these types. Marching stairs are considered the safest and most convenient option. This is very important if there are small children or elderly people in the house. It is quite easy to design such a staircase yourself. Its installation does not present any serious difficulties and can be carried out without the help of specialists, which will save a lot of money. To ensure a reliable structure, it is necessary to use special kosoura (a type of ladder bowstring), which are supporting bolts (a part of the ladder structure to which the steps are attached).

To save space, a staircase is most often used, which has two flights, between them run-in steps or a platform are installed. This type is often used if there is very little space in the house. The two-flight structure is quite simple to build. It is worth remembering that one-marching options are more cumbersome in comparison with two-marching options, but they are quite convenient in that you can make a convenient utility room or closet under them for storing various trifles.

Some parents, in order to please the children, make a children's storehouse or a real fairy-tale cave out of it. In this case, there is simply no limit to children's joy.

Spiral mansard staircases are generally used much less frequently. They are quite difficult to design and build with your own hands, and you can make a lot of mistakes. Most often, the owners simply buy the finished structure in specialized stores. Fortunately, today there are a lot of such trading floors, and such stairs can be presented in various variations: for every taste and color.

If you didn't manage to find anything, then you can easily order a ladder from manufacturing companies that will make it for you individually. In this case, the structure only needs to be assembled and installed.

The compact ladder to the attic can be retractable. Flip-out and folding options are also quite popular today.

General classification of stairs by type and number of flights:

  • straight-span models;
  • one-march (1-2 turns at 90 °);
  • two-march (1 turn by 90 ° and 1 turn by 180 °);
  • spiral spans (required element - load-bearing column);
  • circular spans (shaft in the middle).

Straight spans do not have any turns and are set taking into account a certain angle. In this case, the width of the steps should be on average 30 cm, and their depth at least 27 cm. Stairs that have turns, respectively, capture much more space than straight ones. The width of the walkway should be 50-100 cm, and the width and height of the steps may vary.

Materials (edit)

Everyone knows the fact that it is most advisable to use wood as a material for an attic staircase. The wood has an aesthetic appearance, beautiful texture and rich color. Modern paint and varnish mixtures allow you to give wood the most incredible colors and shades. Moreover, wood is a fairly durable and, most importantly, safe material that will serve for many, many years.

Sometimes for the manufacture of stairs, a material such as iron is also used, but its use implies many specific difficulties. A good forged construction looks incredibly beautiful, but it usually costs a lot more. If you use in this case not forged products, but ordinary metal, then it is better to do with an applied ladder, since there should be a high-quality and beautiful product in the house, and not an option that creaks and plays like a garage door.

Let's go back to the tree. This material is perfect for the manufacture of mansard stairs. The minimum amount of time and equipment will not prevent you from doing everything planned, and this is its main advantage. Moreover, wood, like no other material, can add coziness and comfort to a home.

Making a wooden staircase involves using hardwoods such as oak, pine, larch, yew and ash. Such products, for example, are offered by the Fakro brand. A door or other elements of a metal staircase are usually decorated with forging, decorative figures, etc. Concrete products are rarely used. They are rather bulky and difficult to manufacture.

How to do it yourself?

For self-production of a mansard staircase, you should initially decide on its design and the nature of the location. It is necessary to take into account the area and availability of free space in the house. Most homeowners opt for a straight structure that has no bends or stairs with multiple flights. These varieties are the most optimal, practical and convenient for the home. If the area of ​​the room allows, then you can stop at the option with several turns-turns.

It is very important to correctly calculate the number of steps in each span. This can be done with regular twine by measuring the distance from the end of the ladder to the floor. The depth and height of the steps are calculated based on the angle of inclination of the structure. The steeper it is, the smaller the width of the steps should be.

Before starting work, you should very carefully check all the calculations and calculations. To begin with, we determine the width and height of the rise, the dimensions of the hatch (if any), the steepness. We must not forget that the staircase to the attic should be not only beautiful, but also safe. Therefore, be sure to provide for the presence of handrails, fences and other safety elements. The construction of a staircase involves the following steps:

  • precise determination of the location of the structure;
  • creation of a sketch;
  • creation of a detailed drawing with all dimensions, selection of material of manufacture;
  • selection of accessories and tools;
  • production of staircase elements (steps, railings);
  • installation.

Let's take a look at a typical installation procedure for a permanent wooden staircase.

  • Initially, the base of the structure itself is mounted. At the very bottom, it is securely held by a bar, for example, made of wood.
  • With construction screws, suitable stringers are screwed to the bar.
  • The upper tenons of each element are inserted into the grooves provided. The junction must be coated with wood glue.
  • For a more reliable fastening of the entire structure, metal building corners are used.

  • Threaded rods are used to reinforce the ladder. With their help, all the stringers are connected in several places. This is the standard for a secure and sturdy mount.
  • The main beam is then screwed securely to the wall.
  • The steps are mounted starting from the lowest tread. This sequence is very important. Fix the tread on the dowels, in extreme cases, on self-tapping screws.
  • It is imperative to coat all visible joints with wood glue.
  • After these steps, the riser itself is installed directly.
  • At the final stage, all the stringers are sewn up to the very top of the structure.

Some owners of a private house prefer an external staircase, since this option is very convenient if there is no place for a conventional structure in the room. Outdoor stairs are made of various materials, the main ones being wood, concrete, metal and stone. The best options are still wood and metal. These materials are the most resistant to the external environment, but only if they are pre-treated with special protective equipment.

The main advantages of an external staircase:

  • saving free space in the house;
  • the ability to get to the attic right from the street.

Attic stairs are now sold in almost any hardware store, they can be purchased and installed, saving yourself the hassle of building them. However, the staircase to the attic with your own hands is good, first of all, because it can fit into the dimensions of your room. After all, the internal dimensions of each room differ from each other and the factory version of the stairs to the attic will be more or less inconvenient.

Attic stairs: photo and classification

Do-it-yourself stairs to the attic must be built taking into account all safety rules, and it is also necessary take into account the square of the room... Asking the question of how to make a staircase to the attic with your own hands, you need to take into account all these things.

But remember that the safest staircase structure will be large enough, and in order for it to take up a minimum of space, it should be made too steep, while going up and down it will have to be very careful. If your house is small, then the best option for a ladder for the attic would be a folding one, made of wood and metal elements.

We present others compact mansard stairs, photos and descriptions of which are located below:

  1. marching- kosour, bolts and bowstrings are taken as the basis of such a design as a supporting element. To save room space, it is performed with two marches, in the middle of which there are run-down steps or a platform. But a single-flight staircase will be more dimensional, but the space under it can be used for economic purposes;
  2. helical- it is very compact and will perfectly fit into the design of any room. However, it will not be easy to make such a ladder with your own hands, it is better to purchase a ready-made version together with a stringer and assemble it with your own hands, especially since it will not be difficult;
  3. "Duck step"- close in design to a marching one, but differs from it in a more comfortable ascent, larger dimensions and a canvas that is located at an angle of 45 degrees, like a duck step.

Mansard staircase design

Attic staircase design is determined by such parameters, how:

So, the calculations for the construction of the stairs to the attic with your own hands are complete and you can start working. In the process of work, it is often necessary to make edits and eliminate previously accepted inaccuracies in calculations and plans.

Several options for attic lettuce












How to choose material for a mansard staircase

The most common and optimal material for the construction of a mansard staircase on stringers is softwood, as well as Siberian cedar or larch. You can also use spruce, but it will not be very practical in work due to the large number of bitches. But with pine it will be easier to work. Other suitable breeds include:

  1. ash;

And for lumber, choose dry wood, even, cleaned of knots, so that after the construction of the staircase it does not have weak points.

Kosour is a board on which fragments are cut under the teeth for steps, it is used as a load-bearing beam. The beam must be at least 50 mm thick and 250 mm wide, respectively. As a rule, two beams are enough for work, with the exception of cases when the staircase to the attic in width exceeds 1200 mm, then a third beam in the middle is required.

A tread is a surface that is stepped on when walking up stairs, in other words, it is the step itself. To do it yourself, you need boards with a thickness of 25 to 30 mm, while the farther from each other the stringers, the stronger the steps should be and not bend under the weight of a person. The step protrusion should be between 20 and 40 mm and overhang the step below. The top edge should be rounded off with a planer or sander to prevent the wood from chipping off while walking.

Distance between steps in an upright position are called risers. If the structure is located on kosoura, boards that do not bear the load are placed in this place, therefore they are made of plywood. Often they are not needed at all, so the staircase seems easier.

How to calculate the angles of inclination of a structure

Determining the angles of inclination of the structure is a very important element of work in the construction of stairs to the attic, which must be treated very carefully. If the angle is less than 20 degrees, then the ladder will more likely resemble a ramp, and if 50 - then a ladder for descending in reverse.

Optimal tilt angle for a staircase it is from 30 to 38 degrees and even up to 45. And the size of the tread and risers also depends directly on the angle of inclination. If it is more hollow, then the steps will be deeper and lower, and if it is steeper, then higher and less, respectively. But you need to observe parameters such as:

  1. the maximum step height should be 20 cm, and the minimum - 12 cm;
  2. the maximum step depth is 38 cm, the minimum is 30 cm.

So, in total, the dimensions of the tread and the riser are 50 cm, the number can be reduced somewhat.

There are a number of special formulas for accurately calculating the ratios of the sizes of the degrees in relation to the angle of inclination of the stairs, but they are most often used in complex design, but in a private house it is extremely difficult to comply with these parameters. However, some parameter calculation rules all the same it is necessary to observe:

  1. if the angle of inclination ranges from 33 to 37 degrees, then the steps should have a height of 16 cm;
  2. if the angle is 38-42 degrees, then 18 cm, respectively;
  3. when the angle is 45 degrees, then the steps should have a height of 20 cm;
  4. the width of the flight of stairs should be at least 80 cm, but the optimal size is about 100 cm.

And the vertical passage of the staircase in height from the upper edge of the step to the ceiling must be at least 200 cm. In total, there must be an odd number of steps on the staircase, at least 3 and maximum 15, taking into account the step to the upper floor. This calculation will make the climb as comfortable as possible.

How to cut stringers

To cut the stringers, pull the string along the wall from the top of the subfloor in the attic and up to where the stairs begin at the bottom. Calculate the number of steps by slightly changing their slope. Then transfer the corners between the twine, the floor and the ceiling beam to the stringer and cut it off. At the top of the board, leave a maximum length of 100 mm, depending on what section the floor beam has. Use a chisel to make a groove for the tenon.

Grab the board against the wall, draw on the stringer the required number of steps with a special level, also use it to draw lines for treads and steps. If a few centimeters remain, they need to be scattered between the steps. Mark the first step at the bottom in height, taking into account the thickness of the tread board.

Now remove the board and saw out the teeth. At the bottom of the stringer, in the direction from the acute outer corner, you need to saw off a piece measuring 50 by 50 mm. At this point, the board will abut against a block, previously attached to the floor perpendicular to the structure. Now mark along the stringer and cut the next board.

How to install an attic staircase

To start install the ladder base on the bar below. Next, screw the stringers to it with self-tapping screws, and at the top insert the spikes into the grooves, previously greased with wood glue. Fasten the resulting structure with metal corners. If desired, the staircase can be reinforced with threaded studs, which additionally connect stringers in several sections.

Then screw the first beam to the wall, and install the steps starting from the bottom tread. They should also be fastened with self-tapping screws, and the last of them must be drowned and closed with wooden plugs. Do not forget to process all joints with wood glue.

Installation of a riser is a screwing of the tread from the back of the stairs. Now we sew the stringers up to the top. Finally, the side line of the steps can be supplemented with plywood or a board.

The staircase to the attic is ready. If you wish, you can put a railing if its width is more than 120 centimeters. Now it will not be difficult for you to climb to the top of the two-story house.

The owners of country houses, especially those suffering from insufficient space on the site, often try to expand the living area of ​​their estates by all available means. One of the best and most popular solutions is the arrangement of a residential attic in the attic.

The process of arranging an attic space into a full-fledged residential attic includes many stages, including the creation of an effective and subsequent high-quality finish. But no less important is the organization of a convenient, reliable and safe interfloor passage in everyday operation. This article will describe and show in detail how a staircase to the attic is erected in stages with your own hands.

Preliminary calculations of the mansard flight staircase

The attic staircase can be located inside or outside the house. Of course, for all-season use, the internal staircase looks much more advantageous. It is this option that will be considered further.

The staircase itself can be marching, running or. If you reason in terms of ensuring maximum safety, then it is preferable to make a choice in favor of the marching option.

But the mid-flight stairs have one pronounced drawback - the large dimensions in the projection onto the floor plane. And a common occurrence is when the area of ​​the room in which the stairs should be located is not so large that one can stop at the simplest, one-marching version. The fact is that if there is not enough space, such a staircase will turn out to be very steep and extremely inconvenient, or even dangerous for everyday use, especially for children or family members who have some kind of disabilities for health reasons.

The limiting angle of steepness for such stairs is considered to be 45 degrees. But even this seems a bit too much in terms of comfort. lifting and descent. So it is better to stop at an indicator of up to 40 degrees.

So, one-marching option is obtained very infrequently. And in order to achieve the desired steepness angle, you have to split the ascent into two marches (sometimes even more is practiced). A transitional horizontal platform is made between the flights (it is easier to install and safer in everyday use). Or the marches are connected by a curved section with winder steps (it looks nice, but more difficult in calculations and installation, and not so safe in operation).


Further, we will only talk about a marching staircase with a platform, as a simpler and safer option. And who is interested in the winder staircase - he needs to go to another page.

TO How a winder staircase is designed and installed

Drafting a staircase with a run-in section, carrying out assembly work - all this has a number of important features. Read more about - read in a special publication of our portal.

So, the construction of a marching staircase should be preceded by some calculations.

A. It is necessary to calculate how much area of ​​the room the horizontal projection of the planned staircase with a certain angle of inclination will occupy. Or, conversely, what steepness the march will turn out to be, built on a specific section allotted to it. If one march, for these reasons, is impossible (as often happens), then the staircase will have to be divided into two flights, and the parameters mentioned for each of them have to be calculated, taking into account the location and height of the transition platform. In this case, a prerequisite is the same slope angle for both flights.

Prices for wooden stairs

wooden ladder

The dependence of the steepness of the march and the magnitude of its horizontal projection onto the floor plane will make it possible to evaluate the calculator located below.

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