Interroom doors finishing slopes with plaster. Plastering door frames

It is not enough just to install windows or doors: it is necessary to give the opening an aesthetic appearance. The simplest and most inexpensive option is slope plastering. If the work is done correctly, then the thermal insulation and moisture protection of the opening are provided.

Well-executed slopes have the following characteristics:

• ensuring waterproofing of the assembly seam;
• resistance to abrasion during cleaning;
• stably tolerate the effects of temperature and ultraviolet radiation;
• provide thermal insulation.

According to the form of manufacture, slopes are: oblique and straight, narrow and wide, external and internal.

Necessary tools and some activities before starting work

To do the job well, you will need the following tools:

• water building level;
• malka;
• marking pencil;
• narrow and wide spatula;
• a container in which the mixture is prepared;
• rule;
• Master OK;
• hammer;
• grater, trowel or trowel.

Plastering slopes requires special tools

Before you start plastering, you need to prepare your workplace.

To begin with, cover the window sill with film, cloth or cardboard so that it does not suffer during plastering. Then you need to protect the double-glazed window: for this, you can simply stick the film on the glass using adhesive tape. Carefully cut off the remnants of the mounting foam.

Preparation of mortar for plastering

To perform surface plastering, you first need to prepare a solution. In addition, you need to calculate the consumption of plaster. Gypsum, cement or clay can be used as a binder in the solution. In addition, there are various fillers, sand is most often used.

Do-it-yourself plastering of slopes can be carried out both from a ready-made purchased mixture, and prepared independently. It is easiest to purchase a ready-made composition: all the necessary proportions are met there in order to obtain a solution that has all the necessary characteristics. Before buying, calculate the consumption of plaster.

The easiest way to prepare a plaster solution from the finished mixture

For plastering slopes in wooden and stone buildings, you can use a solution that includes slaked lime. Extinguishing lime is a must, because if you take quicklime, the surface will swell.

For interior decoration in a dry room, slopes can be made with gypsum plaster. Gypsum quickly hardens and dries well. Its disadvantage is hygroscopicity, so it cannot be used outside..

The most durable will be a slope made of cement. This solution hardens quickly. It is used both inside and outside the building. Clay is used only for plastering in wooden structures.

Cement slope - the most durable

For the filler that is added to the solution, river sand is most often taken. Sea sand contains an excess of salt, and mountain sand contains clay impurities. Before use, it is imperative to sift the sand - this ensures the homogeneity of the mixture, which will help to obtain a smooth surface.

Preparatory work

This is an important step, because on an improperly prepared surface, the plaster will not adhere well, it may crack and fall off.

First you need to level the surface. To do this, follow these steps:

• check the verticality of the slopes;
• the evenness of the walls is controlled, if necessary, they need to be plastered;
• in the presence of large potholes, a special metal mesh is used, which is nailed to the surface of the slope.

Before plastering, it is necessary to determine the evenness of the walls

After completing this stage, it is necessary to carry out cleaning of contaminants. To do this, various means are used depending on the material of the wall and the type of pollution:

• concrete walls are treated with a solution of hydrochloric acid and washed with water;
• dirt can be cleaned using a metal brush;
• be sure to clean the old paint, which the slope was processed earlier.

Read also: Self-assembly of slopes on plastic windows

After cleaning, it is imperative to make notches on the concrete wall, part of the mortar is removed from the gaps between the bricks - all this will ensure better adhesion of the wall to the mortar. Be sure to prime the surface before starting plastering.

Renovation of an old plastered opening

If you have chosen this finishing option, you need to know that sooner or later you will have to repair the plastering of the slopes inside the building. First of all, this will require the removal of old paint, then the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe slope is tapped and pieces of the fallen mortar are removed. All cracks must be cleaned, stains and mold removed. Deep potholes are wetted with water, then with soil and filled with mortar. After this procedure, you need to wait for drying. After that, you can continue to work with the slope.

Surface plastering steps

Before you get started, you need to know how to make slopes. To do this, you must perform the following steps:

It is most convenient to carry out plaster work on slopes along beacons. To do this, outside, to obtain a beautiful angle, they put a painting corner, which is well fixed with a solution. A beacon is installed along the frame, on which the tool will rest to cut off the excess layer of mortar.

After carrying out the rough stage of plastering, a solution is thrown onto the plane in the direction from bottom to top. Then they move along the beacons with the rule and remove the extra layer, putting it back into the container.

Scheme of plastering slopes on lighthouses

A plaster mixture is usually smeared on the upper slope. If the surface is prepared correctly, then there are no problems. You can work with a rotband. This is a ready-made mixture, which can be purchased at a hardware store.

After the first layer has dried, the final plaster of the surface is performed. This will require a more liquid consistency of the composition. The mixture is applied in the same way as the draft layer, and stretched by the rule. Now it is important to get a smooth and even surface. Leaving the plastered surface for several hours (about a day), they begin to grout it.

After the plaster has dried, the surface is grouted

Dilute the liquid solution to such a state that it can be poured onto the surface. The work is done with a grater. A solution is applied to it and distributed over the surface in a circular motion. This stage is optional if you plan to putty slopes.

Finishing the slopes of the plaster field

If the slope is to be painted, then the plane should be made perfectly smooth. This is achieved by applying two layers of putty: start and finish. The starting mixture has a larger grain and application is possible in a layer up to 1 centimeter. After the first layer dries, apply the finish. This layer is thinner, after it dries, it is necessary to grout all unnecessary protrusions and irregularities with a mesh. If it is decided to stick wallpaper for painting, then it is enough to stop at the starting layer of putty.

After plastering, wallpaper can be glued onto the slopes

In the case when a window or door was replaced and the slope was not badly damaged, it is enough to restore it, that is, to repair the plaster of the slopes inside the building. This will require less work: it is enough to fill large potholes with mortar and level the entire surface.

Plastering door and arched slopes

The plastering of both door slopes and arches is carried out by analogy, as is the plastering of window openings. The same materials and solutions are used, it is imperative to fasten the corners to create a hard corner. If during the installation of the door the slope is not severely destroyed, it is possible to repair the plaster of the slopes inside the building.

Before you start plastering the door slopes, you need to prepare the surface. To do this, they remove the old paint, putty and beat off poorly adhered parts of the plaster. Then everything needs to be moistened and primed.

To get high-quality plaster of corners, you can fix a special metal or plastic perforated corner with a mesh. It is fixed with self-tapping screws or plaster mortar. After everything is leveled and fixed, you can start plastering the slopes.

For plastering corners, a perforated metal corner is used.

According to the technology, the first layer is thrown onto the surface and left to dry. After that, the surface is completely overwritten and the slope plane is displayed. If you are faced with a very uneven slope and the layer of plaster exceeds one centimeter, you must use a mesh, otherwise cracks may appear on the finished plane.

When working on the upper slope, attach a rail on which the rule will rest. After applying the first layer, you need to take a break to dry, after which you can apply the second layer, which will have a smooth surface.

If doors are not installed for arches, a corner protection profile for plaster is placed on both sides of the opening. Having completed the plastering of the side slopes, you need to do the upper arched.

Templates are used to plaster the arched opening

To do this, you need to measure and cut out two arched templates, which are fixed on both sides to the walls. They begin to throw the solution and distribute it with a special tool - a semicircular trowel. The radius of the arch is displayed according to the mounted templates. The dismantling of the template must be done after the mixture has completely dried.

Remember that plastering can be carried out in a room with at least 6 degrees Celsius. If this rule is not observed, then the quality of the slopes will be low..

Carefully read the instructions for preparing the solution, which the manufacturer puts on the package. The expiration date is also important, because after it the mixture will not have the necessary characteristics. The expiration date close to the end can also not be very good for the final result.

When working with plastic windows, do not forget to make a groove along the entire perimeter between the frame and the slopes 5 mm deep. After the solution dries, the recess is filled with silicone sealant. This contributes to the fact that with strong heat, with an increase in the volume of plastic, the slope will not crack.

How to plaster door slopes? This question interests many people both when installing a new door and when carrying out repairs. The life of the doorway directly depends on the quality of work.

In order for the doorway to serve you for more than one year, you need to pay great attention to the correct creation of slopes. Today you can find a wide variety of materials in order to make door slopes of the highest quality, practical and, of course, beautiful. The most popular materials include:

• Drywall, which is able to quickly solve the problems of uneven surfaces. The main advantage of using this material is that you do not need to build a frame installation to create slopes.
• Plastic. These products should be used only if you have installed plastic doors in the house. If you want to combine PVC with other materials, get ready that the slopes will stand out very much against the background of such doors.
• Natural wood. Wood, of course, goes well with almost any interior, but the creation of such slopes can cost you quite a lot, because the price of natural wood is quite high.
• The cheapest and fastest method of creating slopes is their plastering. In addition, plastering has other advantages: a high level of strength, a long service life and a low price. In this case, you just need to cover the slopes with plaster, after which the products can be painted, varnished or another finishing method.
  

It is about how to plaster door slopes that we will talk today. And also tell you how to carry out a fine finish so that the slopes look great.

Like any finishing work, door slopes are plastered using certain materials. When preparing a mixture of plaster, one should not save on cement, otherwise, after a while, the coating may simply fall off. The most optimal proportion is considered to be the preparation of a composition from 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand, while it is best to use river sand, which contains a minimum amount of clay.

If the decoration is carried out indoors, then it is better to prepare a mixture with a small amount of alabaster - it will make it easier to work with the upper slopes. This point is especially important if the jumpers are curved. That is why the large thickness of the composition coating is so important - so that the mixture can hold in such difficult places. For reliability, you can use a masonry mesh. Before proceeding directly to work, you need, as you already understood, to acquire the necessary tools and carry out preparations.

So, be sure to clean the base, removing paint, wallpaper or other finishing materials, remove old plaster, and thoroughly clean stains and dirt using soapy water and degreasing agents. A very important step is the priming of the surface, which not only provides high-quality adhesion, but also prevents the spread of pathogenic bacteria and rot that can appear under the plaster as a result of temperature changes or high humidity.

To carry out this stage, it is desirable to use a deep penetration primer or focus on the material from which the base is made (concrete, wood, drywall, brick).

How to plaster door slopes - step by step diagram

Step 1: Installing Beacons

To mount beacons, either aluminum profiles or even wooden slats are used, which are installed using alabaster or fastened with self-tapping screws. The main thing is to use the building level so that the slats are parallel to each other, otherwise the slopes will turn out to be curved.

Step 2: Making Notches

In fact, plastering the door slopes is not the last step in ennobling the doorway. Undoubtedly, many end up with simple plaster, but there are other methods that will allow you to give the surface a more aesthetic appearance.. Naturally, the choice of materials in this case depends on the interior of your home. When choosing materials, also rely on the following recommendations:

• If we are talking about internal slopes, it should be borne in mind that they will be exposed to dirt and dust, and therefore the slope material in this case must be well cleaned.
• Speaking about entrance doors, especially in a private house, it should be remembered that the slopes will be exposed to moisture - temperature drops inside and outside the room often lead to condensation. Some finishing materials do not perceive moisture at all or quickly deteriorate under its influence. In this case, it is advisable not to use GKL sheets and wood.
• Do not forget that slopes can be subject to mechanical stress, which also needs to be taken into account. That is why it is undesirable to use plastic products for entrance doors, which are very easy to damage.

We told you how to plaster door slopes, which means it's time to ennoble the appearance of your home, because doors play an important role in this.

The quality of the plastering of the slopes depends on how long the door frame will last. Let's figure out how to quickly and efficiently plaster the slopes of the doors yourself and how to save money on doing this work yourself.

Plastering slopes is a necessary work to finish the doorway after installing a new door frame. Both the appearance and the period of trouble-free service of the door directly depend on how well the slopes are finished. To do these jobs correctly, you need a certain skill. But still it is quite possible to plaster the door slopes with your own hands. Let's figure out how it's done.

Why trim the slopes

First of all, let's find out what tasks the processing of slopes should solve. This operation is performed due to a number of reasons:

• Heat preservation and protection from extraneous noise. A layer of plaster hides all the cracks, so warm air is no longer blown out by drafts. Extraneous sounds are also more difficult to get into the room if the slopes are well sealed.
• UV protection. The ultraviolet rays which are in a sunlight gradually cause degradation of polyurethane foam. The layer of plaster prevents the effect of UV rays on the mounting foam, which means that the durability of the use of the door and door frame increases.
• Finishing and finishing. Closed slopes have a much more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, only after the plastering work has been completed, it can be finally confirmed that the door is installed in place.
• The basis for further finishing work. To install panels or paint a wall, you must first carefully align it, remove all height differences, cracks, cavities. These tasks are performed by plastering work.

That is why, after installing the doors, it is necessary to finish the slopes with all care. It is quite possible to cope with this work on your own. But you need to prepare everything you need and master the technology of performing work.

Choosing materials

To create a layer of plaster, you can use various building compounds. All components for their manufacture can be purchased at hardware stores. Here are the most common solutions for finishing slopes:

• A mixture based on cement and sand. A classic of plaster materials, which fully meets the principle of "cheap and cheerful". It is quite simple to make it: a part of cement is taken, mixed with water (it needs a little less volume) and kneaded with three to four parts of pitch. The amount of sand is selected by concentration: it should resemble thick sour cream.

  Slopes, for which a cement-sand mixture was used, do not look very aesthetically pleasing. Therefore, this option is best suited as a basis for subsequent fine finishing.

• Cement-sand composition with the addition of alabaster. Alabaster, gypsum and other similar additives allow the finished substance to harden faster; in addition, the solution becomes more plastic.
• Ready mixes for plastering slopes. As an example, let's call mixtures from Knauf: Rotband gypsum plaster and MP-74 mixture. But you can also take mixtures of a similar purpose produced by other manufacturers. The advantage of this choice is the good quality of the mortar and the rather aesthetic appearance of the finished surface. The downside is the higher price.

It is difficult to unequivocally advise one or another version of the mixture for plaster. The choice is made based on the budget allotted for these works, the personal preferences of the master and the purpose of the finished surface (i.e. whether a subsequent fine finish is planned or not).

Required materials and tools

In order for the work to be successful, it is important to have the right tools to do it. We will figure out what is required for plastering slopes with our own hands and how to choose the right tool.

First of all, you need to prepare the level. It is better if there are at least 2 ampoules on it. When choosing a length, it is better to stop at a tool of about 1 m. It will be inconvenient to work with a shorter one (you will have to shift it too often and there is a higher risk of making “steps”), and with a long tool it will not turn around between the walls and the jamb.

For marking you will need a tape measure (2-meter is enough), a simple protractor pencil. To bring out the surfaces in an optimal way, an aluminum rule will be needed.

To prepare the solution and apply it to the wall, you need to prepare:

• A bowl for preparing the mixture.
• A measure for measuring volumes.
• Dishes for water.
• Tools for applying the finished mixture to the walls: a spatula (5 cm), a trowel (as used by masons), a trowel and graters (if you plan to plaster with cement-based mixtures). If you plan to use a gypsum-based session, instead of a trowel and graters, you will need a wide spatula (45 cm), a trowel and a grater with a sponge base.
• Pickaxe.

You will also need to take care of protective equipment. Mixtures based on gypsum and cement have a very aggressive effect on the skin of the hands. Therefore, you need to take care of gloves (a medical sample will be enough). You will also need a work robe or other protective clothing. In order not to powder your eyes and hair during work, you should also pick up a hat and goggles.

Another aspect of safe work is a secure foothold. Do not work from wobbly stools or chairs. A reliable stepladder is already a somewhat more suitable option, but it will often have to be rearranged, and legs will get tired from working on a narrow platform. Therefore, if possible, it is worth putting together comfortable goats.

Preparatory work

Slope plastering work must be carried out as carefully as possible. The door, when closing and opening (especially with sharp blows), transmits vibration to the box, so poorly applied plaster can simply fall off. Therefore, if you want the repair to not take as long as possible, you need to do all the work as carefully as possible and prepare the walls well for work.

The door frame is installed even before the start of work on finishing the slopes. So the design will be more durable, and it will not be necessary to fill the gaps between the wall and the slopes. When installing, be sure to use a level to check that the box is as level as possible vertically and horizontally. If necessary, use wooden wedges for adjustment.

Before starting work, do not forget to protect the door leaf and jambs from building mixtures. You can seal the protected surfaces with adhesive tape, cover with newspapers or plastic film.

First, you need to prepare the surfaces in a draft version. For this, old plaster and pieces of bricks sticking out of the slope are removed. You can beat them off manually or use a puncher.

The next step is the removal of contaminants and residues of the cement mixture. With a wet rag or spatula, you need to clean off all deposits from a brick or concrete slab. The more carefully this step is done, the less risk that the plaster will fall off along with the dirt.

Wait until the cleaned walls are thoroughly dry before applying the plaster. Only then can you start plastering work.

How to plaster door slopes. Step-by-step instruction

Do-it-yourself plaster work on door slopes is not very difficult. But you need to strictly follow the technology. Here are the basic steps to get started:

1. We evaluate the surface and determine approximately how much solution will have to be put. If necessary (if you have to put a lot of mortar), a grid with cells of 10 by 10 cm is nailed to the wall with nails. The grid will allow the solution to lie down more evenly and hold on stronger.
2. The slope is reinforced with a corner made of perforated light-alloy aluminum profile. The corner is fixed with cement mortar and leveled so that its edge does not protrude from the wall. The squeezed out solution is removed.
3. The protruding fragments of the mounting foam are cut off with a knife and protected from moisture. To do this, a layer of vapor barrier sealant or film is applied to it.
4. Surfaces are treated with a primer so that the plaster adheres better. The type of soil is selected based on the plaster composition used and the material of the walls.
5. After the surface dries well, proceed to the plaster. Throw the mortar onto the wall with a spatula and level, removing excess mortar. Especially carefully you need to monitor the condition of the corners. Plastering is usually done in two stages: rough and finish. Sufficient time must elapse between the two steps for the mortar to set well. You can even wait a day.
6. When the final layer dries, the plaster is carefully rubbed, reaching a flat surface.

Following these steps, you can get perfectly smooth slopes with your own hands.

Practical experience is needed in every case. Therefore, advice from masters who perform finishing work professionally is especially valuable. Here's what professional decorators advise:

Finishing the slopes is a crucial stage, the quality of which directly affects the life of the door. But if you study the technology and prepare everything you need, you can do it yourself even with minimal finishing skills.

Finishing door slopes can be done both at a right angle and at any other angle, it can be external and external. External is made from moisture resistant and frost-resistant materials.

For plastering the outer slope, it is worth using special solutions designed specifically for this type of finish. Currently, the construction market has a very large selection of materials for such work.

Material selection

The finishing material can be both wood and pvc, as well as special plaster mixes. Slopes made of wood will be environmentally friendly, unlike plastic ones.

Wooden slopes are more often used for doorways, and plastic materials are more suitable for window decoration. One of the most durable and environmentally friendly slopes are plaster. Due to the absence of joints and edging, products become the most attractive. This type of finish is most advisable to perform in new buildings at the same time as plastering the walls, since such work is quite dirty and time-consuming. When replacing windows, the most suitable option would be to install PVC plastic panels. Working with such materials is much cleaner, and in time it will take no more than a day.

Finishing process

Before plastering the door slopes, you need to make sure that the installation is secure. Then you can start preparing the mixture. A solution for such work should be prepared at the rate of one to three (a shovel of cement and three sand).

Slope plastering is a classic. There are situations in which it is simply impossible to do without finishing in this way. Such situations, perhaps, include the processing of almost all arched windows, because for such surfaces it is almost impossible to make slopes from other materials. The immediate advantage of plaster can be considered that it makes it possible to process any shape. In addition, it is resistant to external mechanical stress, environmentally friendly and easy to repair or upgrade. Among other things, the solution will fill all the cracks, which will give the integrity of the structure and provide additional insulation. Before finishing the doorways, you need to install the box, plaster the walls, then proceed directly to the slopes.

In most situations, work is done using a template. You can make the desired template from any durable sheet material. But there are often cases when the doors are not installed at all, and the slopes of the doorway are still plastered. How to be in such a case? To begin with, metal plaster corner profiles should be installed on both sides, which in the future will serve as additional protection of the corner from external negative influences, and the resulting space between the profiles is filled with mortar (the excess should be removed immediately). After everything is dry, you can start finishing the slope.

Before proceeding with painting or pasting with thin wallpaper, the surface is preliminarily puttied.

Arched slopes

The side parts of the arch are plastered similarly to door slopes without installed doors, that is, using corner profiles installed on both sides of the opening. Additional attention requires only the upper rounded part. To do this, mark the location of the edges of the arch on the finished slopes. The bend of the arch should be reinforced with wire or thin reinforcement. For further work, you will need a couple of templates, they can be cut out of plywood or some other durable sheet material. Templates are cut out with the required radius of curvature and are attached to the wall with the help of dowels. After that, the resulting void is filled with mounting foam. A plaster mortar is poured over the top of such a structure. With the help of a special semicircular trowel, the radius of the arch is displayed according to the templates. After the arch is completely dry, the templates are removed and you can start painting or pasting the arch.

All surfaces are puttied before painting.

The process of plastering doorways is not difficult. But in order for the slopes to turn out smooth and beautiful, it is necessary to stock up on patience and perseverance. Drywall is also used for leveling. The use of such material does not require special skills. Drywall is easy to install without much effort. The only difference between such slopes is the quality and service life.

Video

Making door slopes is an obligatory part of a major overhaul or decoration of a newly built house. Plastering can be considered a classic design today. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with such a finish, there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, but, subject to technology, do-it-yourself plastering of slopes can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

We plaster slopes with our own hands: if the technology is observed, everything will work out

How to plaster slopes

Plaster slopes for the door can be made using different compositions:

• Cement-sand mortar (CPS). For 1 part of cement, 3-4 parts of sand are taken and diluted with water (less than a part) to a state of thick sour cream.
• For faster "setting" of the solution and increase its plasticity, you can add a little alabaster or other similar additive to the cement-sand mortar.
• Special mixtures for plaster type (Rotband) and MP 75 from Knauf.

These compounds can be used for plastering door slopes.

What plaster is better to plaster slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.

Technology

Plastering slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work to be done is dirty, therefore it is desirable to close the door leaf, floor and door frame with film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Training

The first stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material are removed. If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it is beaten.

If the old plaster sticks out strongly, it is upholstered

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also cleaned off: plaster does not adhere well to it. After - clean off dust and dirt.

If the cracks didn't foam when you installed the door, you'll need to do it now. Mounting foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with ordinary stationery for paper.

Do-it-yourself door slope installation begins with sealing the gaps between the door frame and the wall

If plastering will be a cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray gun or with a brush, roller.

We expose the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, in order to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Well fixed, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, because for some reason this edge always lifts up during work and causes a lot of inconvenience.

You can fix the corner in several ways:

• Gently apply the solution inside the corner, then press it against the corner. You need to apply the solution carefully: the walls are made very thin and even from a small mass it breaks. Therefore, it is better to use the second method.
• The solution is applied to the corner, and the corner is pressed into it.

There should not be too much solution, but also voids

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that has come out through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by running a finger along the junction.

There is another way to fasten the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used for plastering: the hats interfere.

When plastering door slopes, it is convenient to use a template

The second guide is the door jamb. When installing the door, they were set exactly, so this is a good guideline. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is even, and it glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess solution should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

Plastering slopes can be carried out along the guides

In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during a fine finish.

Do-it-yourself rough plastering of slopes

The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is thrown onto a dust-free and wetted surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - whoever is used to it. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.

Leading the rule or template along the guides, shaking from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you can not achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - regularly remove excess mortar.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing

Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressed, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there is usually no problem. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, the solution, especially cement-sand, “sticks” badly. In this case, it is necessary to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

It may also be necessary to process if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case, the primer should still reduce the absorption of moisture. The second way out is to use special Knauf formulations - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive remarkably "clings" to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as a wonderful base.

If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how to make slopes from MDF. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortars and spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can make slopes of drywall. The view is almost the same, but done faster. After installing plastic windows, plastic slopes can be made.

Finishing layer

After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled, applying a second finishing layer. It is impossible to start leveling too early - the solution “floats”, loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not “float”.

For fine alignment, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Secrets of smooth plaster: the rule is not to pull evenly, but in zigzags

Grout

This step creates a perfectly flat surface. You can overwrite the plaster only after the mortar has set. This should take at least 16-24 hours (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take a little grout from the wall in your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles - you can work, if it is smeared - we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monophonic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be puttied. But this is how your do-it-yourself plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But once again, this is optional.

This video shows how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If further the slope is painted, the putty is perfectly leveled. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After the finishing putty dries, all the bumps and protrusions are polished with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If the old slopes were slightly damaged during the installation of the door and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. It will only be necessary to throw a cavity with a solution and level it with a long trowel (trowel).

Stucco doorway

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case, the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and their installation methods are different.

The plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the principle of selection is the same).

Guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second - on the left, they are fixed. The easiest way to fix them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

To plaster a doorway, two guides are needed, which are installed on both sides

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.

How and what is the finishing of door slopes after installing the front door

After installing a new front door, it remains to update them with brand new slopes. They can be entered into the interior design in many ways, drywall, laminate, MDF, PVC sandwich panels, as well as non-standard materials (for example, imitation of natural stone) are suitable for decoration. In order not to spend money on the services of a specialist, you can do the installation of slopes yourself, following the instructions.

Slope plastering

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