How to move the toilet to another place: two ways to solve the problem. How to move the toilet: necessary materials and implementation options Is it possible to move the toilet to the side

In standard apartments, the bathroom occupies a small area. The owners of the premises resort to various tricks so that every centimeter of the area is used with maximum benefit. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, it becomes necessary to move the toilet from the riser.

The event is not easy. The easiest way is to turn to specialists in the plumbing field, who probably know how to move the toilet to another place. But for this you will have to adapt to their work schedule, change your plans. And, perhaps, even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the case, you can do it on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it. But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes suitable for it. Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, moving the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage. Theoretically, with the correct installation of the pipes and regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of blockages. According to the requirements of SNiP, a plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving the toilet to another place is compliance with the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of effluent transportation decreases, and blockages may appear.

Sometimes, to comply with the pipe slope rule, it is required to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet bowl. Both options have a place to be, but the second requires the installation of a box on the wall for installation and concealment of water and sewer pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing equipment on a pedestal.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transport sewer channel from the toilet to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have right angle turns. If such laying of the pipeline is not possible, in places of sharp bends of 90 0 two 45 0 corner pipes are installed.

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment. Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to a different distance (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, a simple and complex method is distinguished.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet to the side for a short distance - 15 - 20 cm. To do this, you must carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks on the toilet. Therefore, turning off the water, carefully and carefully:

• we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the layer of putty with a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
• with the application of a little effort, we try to loosen the toilet bowl. For which you may need the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen until the equipment begins to swing freely;
• lift the toilet. Grabbing the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, you should not make much effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instruction, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since in order to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pulling the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.

After dismantling the device, you can begin to prepare for its installation in a new location. We examine the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, change it to a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

• mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with a pobedite coating, if it is a tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
• we clean the toilet outlet and the socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
• we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation to the sealing ring, and pull it onto the toilet bowl socket;
• install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
• to create additional support, we coat the gaps formed between the floor and the base with cement;
• at the end of the installation, we lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

If, according to the design project, it is required to move the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to remake the sewer. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences are in the need to increase the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewer at the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross. With plastic pipes, everything is simple (everything is easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, then you will have to resort to using a gas burner or a blowtorch to destroy the sealant and cement putty by heating. After that, you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the slope rules. The installation of plastic pipes in a cast-iron socket involves the use of a special cuff-seal. For better sealing, lubricate its joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is with a corrugation, providing free access to it to control integrity. Instead of a corrugation, you can install a special adapter pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.

In standard-type apartments, the bathroom most often has the most limited area, it is for this reason that the owners have to use every free space as painstakingly as possible. As a result, very often there is a desire to move the toilet to another corner or turn it around. This event is responsible and difficult. In order to carry out the work, you can turn to specialists, or you can do it on your own, the main thing is to figure out how to do the job correctly.

If the toilet needs to be moved to a distance that does not exceed 20 cm, then the work will not be difficult. Placement of equipment can be any. The main thing is to know the minimum distance not only in relation to pipes or walls, but also for the sink. To move the toilet to the left or right, you must first remove its connection from the knees and the water supply. You should start by removing the old device. If the old toilet was installed on cement or special glue, then you will have to tinker with the elimination. If you do at least one wrong action, the toilet can crack. Of course, if you plan to install a new device, then there is no need to be careful, but if this is not the case, then you need to turn off the water and carefully dismantle it.

It consists of 3 steps:

1. We eliminate, putty putty in the space between the sewer socket and the outlet of the toilet bowl. In order to carry out this work, you can use a thin chisel or a flat screwdriver.
2. Gently begin to loosen the toilet. Here it would be appropriate to use a wide chisel, which needs to be hammered into different places. Repeat this action until the device begins to shake thoroughly.
3. We are trying to raise the device. To do this, gently pull it towards you and remove the release along the axis. Experts say that if the device does not give in, then you cannot use force, try to swing it even more and only then pull it.

The toilet bowl, which was installed on standard fasteners, and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, will be removed much easier. To remove it, you will need to remove the screws that are the main fastener. After that, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out its release.

If you want the device to be in working condition after removal, all manipulations must be carried out very carefully.

Also be extremely careful with the fixing putty when removing it. After all the dismantling work has been carried out, you can begin to prepare for the installation of the toilet bowl in a new place. Carefully inspect the flexible hose, if its length is insufficient or it leaks, then you need to replace it with a new one. If everything suits you, leave it in the old place. How the toilet looks in the corner, how to move it diagonally, lift it and put it on the podium, you can find out by looking at the photo, one day is enough for training.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? A few tips for those who want to get rid of it:

We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor

When it comes to repairs in the bathroom, many are faced with such a problem as changing the level of the exit and pipes for connecting plumbing. This is mainly because the floor level is changing and the plumbing is being rearranged. In any case, there is a task to raise the toilet bowl higher.

In order to cope with the problem of mismatching fittings, it is enough to purchase new adapters. If you have a problem with the mismatch of the axes of the pipeline, then it is better to use flexible hoses or organize new pipe gaskets. The coincidence of these holes determines at what level your toilet will be from the floor.

First you need to choose a place for installation and install the device on wooden bars in order to organize a new level.

Make sure that the horizontal position is observed and that all the pins and the drain pipe are aligned.

After that, remove the fixtures and measure the thickness of those linings that you put in order to create a new level for plumbing.

To replace the toilet lid so that the fasteners match. You will learn how to choose and install it correctly if you read our material:

In order to have an idea of ​​​​how to do the above, you must think through all the subtleties of the base in advance. You can use wood, but this will not be the best option, as the wood rots under the influence of condensate. It is best to use a concrete screed. In this case, screws and dowels will be needed for fastening. At the moment, it is widespread to mount the device to the base with glue.

Is it possible to make a large distance from the toilet to the riser

In order to expand the available space in the toilet room, many decide to take the step of moving the toilet from one side to the other. Transferring the device to another corner is possible, however, in order for it to continue to function fully, you need to know some points.

As for the pipeline, certain requirements are also put forward for it, which must be immediately taken into account.

For instance:

• You can use pipes with a diameter of 50 to 100mm, the most optimal are pipes with a cross section of 100mm;
• The distance from the device to the riser should be a maximum of 1.5 m, if the length is longer, then the drain power from the barrel will not be enough to push through the waste and a blockage will appear;
• Observe the correct slope, it depends on the section of the pipe.

If the slope is lowered, then there is a high probability of clogging, as the fluid flow is reduced. If, on the contrary, the slope is too high, then the flow rate will be excessive and solid parts will collect in the pipe, which will subsequently block the movement of water. How to move the toilet close to the wall, what is the maximum distance from the wall and how far can the toilet be from the drain, you can learn from the training video.

Installation of a toilet bowl in an apartment should be carried out with high quality. Full algorithm of actions and advice from professionals on the next page:

Changing the environment: how to turn the toilet 90 degrees

Sometimes there are situations when you want to completely change the design of the bathroom and purchase a new toilet, in which case you can turn the toilet 90 degrees. The work is very simple, the main thing is to know some technical nuances, rules and subtleties.

To carry out the rearrangement, it is not necessary to deal with the digestion of pipes.

Recently, the use of corner bends and corrugated pipes has become popular.

Corrugated pipes are best suited to deploy the toilet in an already installed place. If you not only deploy the device, but also transfer it to another place, then it is more expedient to use pipes of the required diameter, which are made of plastic. Using these methods, you can easily not only deploy, but also move the toilet to the desired location. But make sure that the corrugation is not subjected to excessive stretching, as this can lead to a break. This method will help not only to rotate the device, but also to rearrange it in the other direction, for example, closer to the sink, or move it as far as necessary.

How to move the toilet to another place (video)

As you can see from this article, moving a toilet is not such a difficult thing, of course, if you are convinced of your skills. If you are going to do this business for the first time, and are not aware of all the intricacies, then it is better to contact specialists who will not only carefully carry out the installation, but also organize careful dismantling, so that the old device will not be damaged and will last for a long time.

You will need

• - outlet for the toilet at 45 degrees;
• - bell;
• - fan pipe;
• - corner bends;
• - fasteners;
• - silicone sealant.

Instruction

Remove from the room all unnecessary items, furniture, plumbing fixtures that may interfere with work. Assemble the elements of the inlet elbow together - these are two 90' elbow bends made of PVC with a diameter of 110 mm, a 45' toilet outlet with a seal for the outlet, a piece of a vent pipe with a socket, the diameter of which is 110 mm. It can be used as an extension for the transition elbow, which makes it possible to move the toilet more freely. This process is not easy - it is necessary to achieve the tightest possible connection of pipes.

At the end of the fitting on the taps, make marks with felt-tip pens or a simple pencil at the points of the connection lines. So then it will be easier to assemble the structure. Now disassemble the knee and treat the rubber cuffs that are included in the joints with silicone grease. Install them in their original place, and then assemble the outlet structure again. Connect its outlet to the outlet of the toilet bowl, and connect the opposite end to the fan pipe, which is part of the riser structure.

After completing these steps, proceed to adjust the offset in height. Make sure that the design has a uniform slope from the toilet to the riser with an angle of more than two degrees. There are holes in the pedestal of the toilet bowl - mark the points through them with a marker where the toilet bowl will be fixed after the final transfer to a new location.

Install the drain tank in place. Make sure it doesn't hit the wall. In the marks made on the floor, drill holes into which you will need to insert the dowels. This way the toilet will be fixed in place. This completes the work on reinstalling the toilet bowl - all that remains is to bring other furnishings into the room.

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Prepare all the necessary tools and materials in advance. Work on moving the toilet should be carried out as soon as possible - the smell is far from pleasant. There is nothing good if the work is delayed due to running around the shops in search of the right part,

Useful advice

In order to fit the structure as best as possible in size, remove the rubber seals from both the corner elbows and the sockets. It is desirable to achieve an exact coincidence of the end of the knee with the release of the toilet bowl installed in the new location. The same should be done with the connection to the fan pipe. This is best achieved by pushing and pulling on the connecting elements. When performing such actions, the desired length of the straight section is selected.

Creating a comfortable environment is impossible without redevelopment of the premises, which also affects the toilet in the apartment.

Thanks to the transfer of the toilet bowl, you can optimize the place in the bathroom

Possible problems when moving the toilet

The increase in the free space of the toilet room pushes for thought and reinstallation of the bathroom. Is moving the toilet to the side realistic?

Yes, but in order for plumbing to function properly, you should know some subtleties.

1. The likelihood of blockage increases with distance from the riser, because sewage overcomes a long way.
2. Flushing water is accompanied by an unpleasant odor (sewer stench) and gurgling sounds. In a long pipeline, a high vacuum is formed, which leads to the suction of water from the appliances (located nearby plumbing) and the failure of their hydraulic valves.

With the right approach to solving the issue, such problems can be avoided. Moving a toilet from a riser- a process that is regulatedcurrent regulations (SNiP).

To ensure the necessary slope, sometimes you have to install the toilet on the podium

Sewer line requirements:

• Use of pipes whose diameter is in the range of 50 ... 100 mm. The optimal section is considered to be 100 mm, which brings the risk of a vacuum or a “plug” from sewage).
• The maximum riser distance is 1.5m. If the pipe is longer, the capacity of the drain tank will not be enough to push through. They settle on the walls of the pipeline, and a blockage is formed.
• Observance of the correct slope. For each meter of pipeline, it is 2 cm (for a section of 100 mm) or 3 cm (for a 50 mm section).

With an underestimated angle of inclination of the drain, 100% clogging of the sewer is guaranteed, since the flow rate of the liquid is reduced. If the slope is too high, the flow develops excessive speed, which is why solid particles accumulate in the pipe. As a result, the flow of water is blocked.

• Lack of right angles when laying a new sewer. If this condition is not met, installation at an angle of 45° is allowed (two such angles instead of one straight).

If you put the toilet in the apartment, taking into account these simple rules, then the likelihood of a blockage will be minimized (drainage is discharged by gravity).

In practice, to move the toilet, you will need to perform a certain sequence of actions:

1. Mark the distance that you can move the bathroom. You will need to fix one end of a one and a half meter twine on the riser and draw an arc with chalk (tied to the other end of the rope).
2. Choose the most suitable location for the toilet and install it. It is advisable not to leave the maximum distance zone marked on the floor.
3. Measure the height difference between the center of the drain pipe and the floor. Compare the received data with the height of the inset point. If it turns out to be higher, you will have to build a podium, with which the drain pipe rises 30 mm above the riser tee (tie-in point).
4. Fix the plumbing on the podium (floor) and connect it to the drain system, ensuring the pipeline is as straight as possible (avoid right angles).

It is not necessary to carry out a hard supply of cold water to the toilet, it is much easier to use a long flexible hose.

The pump should be placed in the wall behind the toilet

Another situation is also possible when it is necessary to move the pipes in the toilet to a distance of more than 1.5 m or compliance with SNiP is a difficult task. What to do?

There are two solutions, the first of which is the transfer of the sewer riser, and the second is the connection of specific equipment (forced sewage). It would be preferable to install a sololift.

Using a sololift

Installing a sololift is a great opportunity to equip a toilet room where gravity sewerage is not available. The principle of operation of the sololift is based on (drainage).

(sololift) are quite powerful devices equipped with special choppers (blades). allows not only pumping out sewage, but also grinding solid particles, pushing the resulting mass (solid suspension) into the sewer system. are usually placed inside the cistern or directly behind it.

• forget about all the restrictions regarding the riser and the toilet - it is allowed to connect pipes of small diameter (18 ... 40 mm), and the long limit is shifted towards 100m horizontally and 7m vertically;
• additional construction work.

However, there are certain criteria for choosing such equipment. So, when planning a parallel, washing machine), it is better to dwell on models that are able to work in conditions of relatively high temperatures of the discharged water. Otherwise, you can not count on long-term operation.

For short-term pumping of hot liquids, you can use a device that provides protection for half an hour (no more). But this embodiment is not designed for long-term operation at elevated temperatures.

If we talk about the technical side of the issue, then the installation of a sololift is practically no different from the usual transfer of a toilet bowl. The difference is in laying down a slope of a longer sewer pipe. The requirements for installing the grinder pump are prescribed in the instructions (attached to the device) and must be followed exactly.

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The unit is also unpretentious for operational maintenance. It needs only periodic cleaning, for which special liquids have been developed that remove deposits from the walls.

The only drawback is energy dependence (it is impossible to function when the electrical energy is turned off).

Good day! Your problem is completely solvable. SNiP allows the transfer of the toilet, but warns that the distance from the plumbing fixture to the sewer riser should not exceed 1.5 m. There are two reasons for this:

1. Large removal provokes excessive vacuum in the pipes. What does this mean for the landlord? At least a constant unpleasant sewer smell in the apartment and loud gurgling sounds coming from plumbing. The fact is that excessive vacuum in the pipes with each flush will “suck out” water from all nearby plumbing fixtures and disrupt their water seals, the main function of which is to prevent the penetration of unpleasant odors into the room.
2. The longer the sewer pipes, the higher the risk of encountering blockages. Theoretically, sewage will be able to reach the riser anyway, but the greater the distance they have to travel, the higher the chance of them getting stuck in the pipe. In addition, it is important to observe the optimal slope of sewer communications. If the slope of the pipe is insufficient, the speed of sewage movement will be low, which will inevitably lead to blockage. If the slope of the pipeline is too large, liquid effluents will drain too quickly, but solid sewage will stop and accumulate.

So, in order to move the toilet some distance from the riser and not run into problems, you need to follow three rules:

• The distance from the riser to the plumbing fixture cannot be more than 1.5 m.
• The slope of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm should be 2 cm per meter. Smaller elements with a diameter of 50 mm are laid at a slope of 3 cm per meter.
• No right angles. If for some reason this is not possible, two 45° elbows should be laid instead of one piece at 90°.

In practice, the second point is troublesome. This is due to the fact that it is impossible to provide the desired slope at a short distance. Therefore, most often you have to raise the toilet above the floor level and install it on a small podium. Such a solution is considered optimal, because it makes it possible to provide the desired slope of the sewer pipe and at the same time hide all communications. Alternatively, you can raise the level of the floor, which is no less troublesome. In addition, in this case, the height of the room will decrease.

To ensure the desired slope of the sewer pipe, the toilet can be raised to a low podium

It happens that you need to move plumbing to a distance greater than recommended in SNiP, or for some reason it is impossible to fulfill the above requirements. Even in this case, you can find a solution to the problem, or rather, two at once. The first is to move the sewer riser. It is highly undesirable to do this, since the procedure is very troublesome and time-consuming. A simpler solution is to install special equipment that provides forced sewage. The device will make the system work in such conditions when the traditional gravity sewer cannot function normally.

The best solution is to install a fecal pump or, as it is also called, a sololift. The equipment is a pump, which is equipped with shredders in the form of blades. The device forcibly pumps out sewage, grinds solid waste with blades, and then pushes the resulting mass into the sewer. The device is compact and easy to install. Moreover, for its installation it will not be necessary to perform any additional construction work.

Depending on the power of the equipment, it makes it possible to drain wastewater up to 100 m horizontally, and vertically by 5-7 m. In addition, if necessary, the pump allows the use of pipes of small diameter: 18-40 mm. If you plan to connect a shower cabin or a washing machine to the sewer system, you need to choose the right sololift model. Most of them are designed to work with cold drains, hot drains will disable the device. Therefore, it is worth choosing a device that is designed to work with high temperatures.

Sololift - a compact device that is installed behind the toilet

A small nuance: there are pump models with special protection that allows the device to pump hot wastewater. However, this protection is short-term, its action does not exceed 30 minutes. Constant work with hot liquid is contraindicated for such devices in the same way as for conventional mechanisms. Therefore, it is still better to choose a heat-resistant device. Thus, the transfer of the toilet is quite possible, choose any method that suits you.