There are many ways to send a file to someone over the Internet, and whoever it is ...
A common trunk opening problem on Freelander 2 and Discovery 3 and 4 vehicles is a malfunction of the 5th door open button. The problem manifests itself in different ways:
Trunk opening is spontaneously triggered and the inscription “TRUNK OPEN” is displayed on the information board, while the car, when setting the alarm, does not lock the doors and emits an audible signal informing the owner about the open door.
After washing or after driving the car in the rain, the tailgate stops opening. After a while, the door opens again exactly until the next "shower".
When you click on the open button, nothing happens.
The way out of the situation when the trunk does not open at all is as follows: (1) to open the trunk using the button on the electronic key, if such a function is registered in the key itself; (2) for cars before 2010 model year, it is necessary in the car interior, on the panel, to simultaneously hold down the button to open and close the doors and hold them together until the lock is released. It is convenient to carry out this procedure with two people, as a double lock is installed.
If, after doing both methods, the door still does not open, a possible malfunction will most likely be a malfunction of the lock itself. But now let's look at the malfunction associated with the button.
In most cases, the reason for the failure of the button is its structural leakage, loose fit of the sealing gum to the body and the button itself being in the place of turbulent eddies when the car is moving. As a result, the button, in rainy weather, or at the sink, is constantly exposed to moisture. Once inside, moisture contacts the metal pressure plate, causing oxidative processes. The resulting oxides are deposited on the plate, thereby creating an additional travel distance of the plate to the contact spot with the microswitch. In this regard, when you press the button, the force on the microswitch increases and, as a result, leads to its breakdown.
Oxidation and wire breakage is also one of the reasons for the trunk not opening. As a result of the wiring being in a constant wet and acidic environment from reagents, oxidation and wire breakage occur.
The remedy is to repair the wiring or replace the button assembly, depending on the cause. To get to the button on the Freelander 2, you need to remove the trunk lid trim and unscrew the bolts securing the visor with the button.
Very often, the visor mounting bolts become rusty and cannot be dismantled. This complicates the repair and can lead to breakage of the fastener. Care must be taken!
This is the picture that appeared before our eyes on the 2008 Freelander 2:
If you make repairs with your own hands, you can try to clean the plate and seal the sealing gum of the button to prevent moisture from penetrating in the future. However, practice shows that the effect of this operation will not last long.
We recommend replacing the button with a new one, the cost of which is about 2800 rubles. The cost of replacing the button was 1500 rubles. The execution time is about 35-50 minutes. Prices are at the time of repair, not an offer.
We give DISCOUNT 20% for all work at the first visit to our technical center!
Remember that any repair requires the appropriate qualifications and skills of the master. After all, each car has its own characteristics!
CAUTION: Diagnosis by substituting a component from another vehicle is NOT allowed. Substitution of control modules does not guarantee confirmation of the fault and, moreover, may cause additional faults in the vehicle being checked and/or in the vehicle from which the modules are removed.
1. Visually inspect for obvious signs of mechanical or electrical damage.
2. If an obvious cause of the problem you identified or described by the customer is found, eliminate it (if possible) before proceeding to the next steps.
3. If no cause is found by visual inspection, troubleshoot by referring to the symptom table, or check for DTCs and refer to the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) index.
DTC index
NOTE: If a control module or component is suspected and the vehicle continues to be covered by the manufacturer's warranty, refer to the warranty manual (subsection B1.2) before installing a new module/component, or determine if there is any previously approved special program in operation. .
NOTE: Universal Scan Tools cannot read the listed codes or can only read 5-digit codes. Match the 5 digits from the scan tool with the first 5 digits of the listed 7 digit code to identify the problem (the last 2 digits provide additional information read by the manufacturer's approved diagnostic system).
NOTE: When performing voltage or resistance tests, always use a digital multimeter (DMM) with three decimal places accuracy and an up-to-date calibration certificate. When testing resistance, always consider the resistance of the DMM wires.
NOTE: Before starting diagnostic programs using Pinpoint tests, check and correct basic problems.
NOTE: If DTCs are logged and there is no problem after performing Pinpoint tests, an intermittent problem may be the cause. Always check for loose connections and corroded contacts
For a complete list of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) that can be logged in the vehicle, see Section 100-00.
For more information, refer to: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index - DTC Driver/Passenger Door Module (DDM/PDM)(100-00 General information, Description and principle of operation).
Symptom table
| sign | Possible reasons | Action |
| One of the doors does not open from the outside (but opens from the inside) |
|
Switch to PINPOINT TEST A. |
| One of the doors does not open from the inside (but opens from the outside) |
|
Switch to PINPOINT-TEST B. |
| One of the doors won't close |
|
NOTE: Make sure the vehicle battery is fully charged. Switch to PINPOINT-TEST C. |
| A door open message appears on the instrument panel |
|
Switch to PINPOINT-TEST D. |
Fault localization test
Pinpoint test A: one of the doors does not open from the outside (but opens from the inside)
A1: Check that the door release cable is correctly installed between the lock and the outside door handle
Yes- GO to A2.
Not
A2: Check the connection of the door release cable on the outside handle to the door latch
Is the connection of the door release cable on the outside handle to the door latch correctly installed? Is the door release cable on the outside handle installed correctly?Yes- GO to A3.
Not- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.
A3: Using the outside door handle, check if the latch is working properly
With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and pull the outside door handle to ensure that the latch is unlocked. Does the door latch unlock?Yes- GO to A4.
Not
A4: Close the door and check if it works
Yes
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Pinpoint test B: one of the doors does not open from the inside (but opens from the outside)
B1: Check that the door release cable is correctly installed between the lock and the inside door handle
- Make sure the padlock is turned off (if necessary).
- Remove the door trim panel (if necessary). For more information refer to: Front door trim panel (501-05 Interior trim, Removal and installation) / Rear door trim panel (501-05 Interior trim, Removal and installation).
- Check that the door release cable is properly installed on the inside door handle.
Yes- GO to B2.
Not- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable retainer is damaged, install a new retainer. Check the normal operation of the system.
B2: Check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle to the door latch
Yes- GO to B3.
Not- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.
B3: Check plastic retainer/door latch cable housing for damage
Yes- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Not- GO to B4.
B4: Using the inside door handle, check that the latch is working properly
With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and pull the inside door handle to ensure that the latch is unlocked. Does the door latch unlock?Yes- GO to B5.
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
B5: slam the door and check if it works
Make sure the door opens, closes, locks and unlocks normally after slamming. Repeat this procedure 5 times. Does the door work correctly?Yes- Check the normal operation of the system.
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Pinpoint test C: one of the doors does not close
C1: check the operation of the locking clip of the inner door handle
Check the locking/unlocking of the door latch by pushing/pulling the locking clip on the inside door handle. Does the door lock and unlock?Yes- GO to C2.
Not- GO to C5.
C2: Check if the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly
Yes- GO to C3.
Not
C3: Check door latch electrical connector terminals for damage
- Check the electrical connector terminals and door latches for damage.
Yes
Not- GO to C4.
C4: check the voltage on the door latch
Check for voltage at the door latch electrical connector. Is the voltage over 10V?Yes- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Not- Repair wiring harness. Check the normal operation of the system. If the problem persists, install a new door latch (if necessary). For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
C5: check the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle to the door latch
Is the connection of the door release cable on the inside handle to the door latch correctly installed? Is the door release cable on the inside handle installed correctly?Yes- GO to C6.
Not- Connect the door release cable correctly. If the cable is damaged, install a new one. Check the normal operation of the system.
C6: Check plastic retainer/door latch cable housing for damage
Check the plastic retainer/door latch cable housing for damage. Is the plastic retainer/door latch cable housing damaged?Yes- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Not- GO to C7.
C7: Using the inside door handle, check that the latch is working properly
With the door open, use a suitable screwdriver to lock the door latch and press the latch on the inside door handle to ensure that the latch locks. Does the door latch lock?Yes- GO to C8.
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
C8: slam the door and check if it works
Make sure the door opens, closes, locks and unlocks normally after slamming. Repeat this procedure 5 times. Does the door work correctly?Yes- Check the normal operation of the system.
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Pinpoint Test D: Door Not Closed Message Appears on Dashboard
D1: Check if the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly
Make sure the door latch electrical connector is installed correctly. Is the electrical connector installed correctly?Yes- GO to D2.
Not- Install the door latch electrical connector. Check the normal operation of the system.
D2: Check door latch electrical connector terminals for damage
- Disconnect the door latch electrical connector.
- Check the electrical connector terminals and door latches for damage or corrosion.
Yes- Repair the electrical connector. Check the normal operation of the system. If the terminals on the door latch are damaged, install a new door latch (if necessary). For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation). Not- GO to D3.
D3: slam the door and check if it works
- Connect the door latch electrical connector.
- Make sure the door opens, closes, locks and unlocks normally after slamming. Repeat this procedure 5 times.
Yes- Check the normal operation of the system.
Not- If necessary, install a new latch. For more information, refer to: Front Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation) / Rear Door Latch (501-14 Handles, Locks, Latches and Entry Systems, Removal and Installation).
Question: We disassemble the door Freelander 2
It so happened that I personally attached Filka to the micro-fence. Hushed up the bottom of the door, tore off and spoiled the lining. (IMG:) (IMG:) Advised to come to the chiropractor for the bride with the disassembled door. (img:)
On the forum I found only general pictures from which I realized how many screws and what there are "bugs". How to get to the whole farm is not really clear (IMG:) Eyes are afraid - hands are doing. See if anyone is interested.
Peculiarities:
1. The door trim sits firmly on the "bugs" - I wrapped the knife with a rag so as not to scratch it, before that, disconnect the backlight from below.
2. as soon as the first bug was torn off - then a chain reaction. Carefully! do not break the two brackets on the door trim under the mirror (I killed one (IMG :)) .
3. then lift the trim up and separate it from the door by a maximum of 5-7 cm.
4. disconnect the power window wire and the door handle drive (everything is simple, it takes a long time to describe).
5. turn off and unscrew the speaker, the speaker is held on by 3 self-tapping screws and two clips built into its body - be careful not to break it! Click on the clip on the side of the radius of the speaker and shoot.
6. Install (from the driver's door) the glass at the level of 2/3 of the diameter of the hole for the speaker, stick your hand into the hole and carefully bending the plastic brackets on the outside of the door, disconnect the glass from the drive and fix it in the upper position with improvised means.
7. Disconnect the controller unit (3 screws) from the door drive housing, unscrew the mount (key 10) of the power window drive (6 points) and turn it 90 degrees. pull out clockwise.
Good luck!
Attached images
Answer: Oh man, you are correct. (IMG:) Only almost all bedbugs fly off easily, except for two, which are installed almost under the mirror, are made of a different material and it is very, very difficult to sneak up to them from the rack - there is critically little space (IMG :) or a half-meter screwdriver, lighting, a keen eye in the crack and finally know where to shove her infection (screwdriver) ... (IMG:) (IMG:) (IMG:)
Although, if you removed the door trim on Filka, everyone will be interested in sharing your experience (IMG:)
And if it's just reasoning, well, then let it be just reasoning (IMG:)
Q: Turbine question
Hello. I have a turbine. The car is Friel 2 diesel 160 horses. The question is. Is the turbine from Ewok suitable for a freelander? If you leave your actuator.
Answer:
Quote([email protected], 18:39)
I understand, thank you. Also, tell me, can the turbine chirp? But only on the go. Maybe it's an intercolor pipe in general? Are there options for how to check?
The main signs of pipe leakage are: loss of power (dips), black smoke during acceleration.
More search on topics about pipes / intercoolers / turbines. Here this stuff is chewed-chewed for a hundred rows. And the symptoms, and what, and where, and a photo, what to change for, where to get it, part numbers, prices. Good luck!
Question: I want to buy a used Freelander2. What to pay attention to?
Good day! I really appreciate your support and advice. The question arose about changing the car, now I have a Toyota with a right-hand drive (Witz). I really like it, nothing breaks at all. But I really like to travel by car, nothing fits in my little one, I want to buy a car that is comfortable, roomy and reliable, and of course, beautiful to my liking !!! Everyone advises a lot, but I really like the Freelander. There is a lot of good and bad talk. The accumulated amount will be enough for the 2007-2008 Freelander. After reading the information, I realized that the year also plays a role. What you should pay attention to when buying, maybe someone will write an algorithm of actions, how to choose, with maximum security (although I understand that it’s as lucky here), but at least some basic rules. Thank you all in advance
Answer:
Quote([email protected], 12:01)
No need to be so critical. I have a third (only lizhzhzhzhzhy) car. The first 8 years run 45 tyr., the second 5 years - 48 tyr., Friel 5th year - 36 .... tyr. Someone to work 5 km, and someone - consider yourself. (img:)
PS. Friel is not going to sell the next .....
Logically, there should be a bike in this row with such a distance to work! Runs will be even less! Again, a healthy lifestyle! (img:)
Question: Help me decide
Hello!
Tell me, is it worth taking Disco-3-diesel-manual transmission as the first car in your life? Or does she still need experience in owning other cars? So, do you need to mature for it? There are a couple of options (among them Freelander wormed his way, though).
For those interested, here are the options:
http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/discovery/6838263/
http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/discovery/6910792/
http://www.24auto.ru/board/cars/krasnoyarsk/land-rover/freelander/6704468/
Answer: If you are not afraid, then you need to take)))
Question: Start up after lunch
Hello friends, I took the car after repair (the freelander does not start), and now the following miracles are happening to it: the car starts only in the afternoon, and after that it works fine at least a hundred times off the beaten track, backwater. After not starting an error on the crankshaft sensor, it would seem that everything just change the sensor and you will be happy, but no, I changed the sensor, I changed the magnetic tape, they called the wiring, everything is the same, I don’t know what to do.
Everyone is already laughing about calling the afternoon Freelander, they say this does not happen. Maybe someone had something similar?
Answer: Set the clock and time zone to the correct one (IMG:)
Question: After replacing the automatic transmission, there were bumps when turning on gears R and D
Good day, I ask for help. Essence of the question
I changed the automatic transmission to Freelander 2, put it on a contract, reset the automatic transmission adaptation using SDD. I started the car, everything is fine, but there was such a problem, A noticeable blow when switching from parking mode to R and D. It is felt in the cabin, when you look at the pit, then the jerk of the engine with the gearbox is decent. What could be? How to treat?
Thanks in advance.
Answer: And now the most interesting.
Today I went to the office where I took the box and found out that the box that I was sold contracted from Europe from a 2012 car, mileage 10,000 km, that's just one thing, but it's from Ewok.
As I was told in the service, the boxes are identical, so there will be no return.
In short, the span with the replacement came out.
What to do now? How to adapt a box from Evoque to Freelander2?
Are there options to save the situation?
Question: Is it worth it?
I have a land rover freelander 2 2.2 TD 2008, 150,000 mileage. Due to the financial opportunity, I thought about getting a newer freel (I don’t even consider another car), restyling 2014, are there any significant changes other than color displays, square fogs and etc? Or is it still like driving an old one and keeping the money for a newer model? And will Freelander 3 appear?! Thank you.
Answer: Friel new came out (like), but it's not Friel. Better ride yours. Do you know what it's made of?
Question: Cost of maintenance on FL2
Good afternoon everyone!
Interested in the cost of regulated maintenance on the Freelander.
I would also like to know the frequency of maintenance. I heard that after 10 thousand km and the second option was that after 12 thousand km or once a year.
See what comes first.
I would also like to see the maintenance scheme itself, that is, what and after what mileage interval is replaced.
Thanks to all who answered.
Answer: Everything is clear about 12 thousand. Just a man from St. Petersburg writes that 12 thousand or every six months. Read above. It turns out that it is necessary to service every six months, regardless of how much you naktal 3000 or 10 thousand ??????
Question: twitches during acceleration, help to find the cause
freelander 2 diesel 08, 09 model range automatic transmission
when accelerating at a speed of approx. from 2-3, shocks occur, as it were, it is supported 3-5 times further normally, at this moment there are no switching boxes
I already wrote about the problem before, but I thought either the nozzles or error p0113 were to blame, but at the moment when diagnosing errors, the terine response is working fine,
maybe it's a box go where else to look? I can’t imagine where to go in my area to find out what’s the matter ... maybe someone came across ... ??????
Answer: Greetings! I don't know if it will help or not, I had a similar problem on the RPC. On a sharp acceleration or overtaking, at these speeds there were jerks and fluctuations in speed. Whatever I thought, it turned out that I refueled with a low-quality diesel engine (refueled at Lukoil), they diagnosed water in the fuel filter. After changing the filter everything went away. However, there was still water in the tank, I had to clean it, otherwise water would get in again.
Q: car jerks
Good day! Do not prompt here such problem was drawn. I have a Freelander 2 diesel 150l.h 2013, about a week ago I was standing in a traffic jam on the street, hot weather, I let go of the brake and get a push forward and so the whole traffic jam, but on cool days everything is in order, what can it be?
Answer:
Question: Question to Master Lr
In the previous post, you clarified how to remove the trunk handle, but only now I discovered that Freelander was erroneously indicated in my profile instead of D3. Are there any differences in the removal of the cladding? Thanks!
Answer: What?
Opening the phone?
Question: Wheels from Ford and Jaguar
Will rims from Ford and Jaguar fit on Freelander 2?
They are also 5x108 and ts.o. 63.3, nuance: they have M12x1.5 fasteners, and we have M14x1.5 (if the catalogs do not lie).
From memory, the holes in regular disks are more than 14 mm and the centering is conical.
Does anyone have experience on this?
Or just try on? But this is not very convenient, especially if the discs are sold in another city (IMG:)
Answer: For the winter I put wheels from Ford Kuga 17 ", everything fits, I used native nuts.
Photos of dirty disks:
(img:)
Question: Need help
I beg your pardon, maybe there is already such a topic, but I searched and didn’t find it. The problem is this: the freelander 2008 2.2 abruptly stopped pulling on the go, the check did not light up, but errors appeared P02E0 and P02E1 with what these errors are connected, I know where I can’t climb understand. Throttle is normal. Thank you very much in advance
Answer:
Quote([email protected], 16:01)
check the connector on the air meter, it is loosely dressed.
I cleaned the throttle, 2 days passed and everything was gone
Question: Broken threads in the air filter housing
Freelander 2 2008 2.2 diesel
Repair option:
You will need:
100 rubles for 4 nuts 5mm. 4 screws 5x45
screwdriver and drill bit 5.2mm.
unscrew the 4 screws / self-tapping screws of the air filter, remove the filter by pulling upwards remove the lower part of the housing
now it is in your hands and it is convenient for you to carry out the following operations.
don't forget to drill holes in the top cover as well, so that the screw can pass through easily.
Answer:
Quote([email protected], 21:16)
At some point, the thread in the lower part of the air filter housing was torn off
Everything is fine with the carving because I myself served all the time and did not trust the OD (IMG :)
And TS +100 for ingenuity! The question remains so that the cage nut does not fly out. I would still grab it with a super tape on the sides. There is a place there. Then it will be really cool.
