How to make a temporary greenhouse with your own hands. How to build a greenhouse with your own hands: instructions from A to Z

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a pitched or gable roof, since bending arches from wood is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are installed in the Middle Zone. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better bear loads, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - welding a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross-section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gable or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow in winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is needed. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or simply timber is suitable.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

• A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
  
• Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
• The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
• The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.

  

• Mortgages - studs or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
• The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
• If the bottom trim is a beam, waterproofing is rolled out over the concrete base. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat the concrete with bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
• A row of strapping is laid:
  
• Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be a very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for the warm season, a corrugated (or monolithic) one is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it doesn’t press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which at the same time protect the attachment point from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: With the onset of spring, every summer resident is faced with the task of planting seedlings and their further planting in open ground. The simple and cheap design of a greenhouse made of plastic pipes is suitable for all summer residents and owners of country houses without exception.

Many summer residents strive to provide themselves with self-grown vegetables for the whole year. But due to climatic conditions, it is not always possible to achieve this goal in those areas that are located in the northern regions of our country. An excellent solution to this problem is to build a greenhouse on a garden plot.

True, not all gardeners have the financial ability to purchase a ready-made factory greenhouse. For such people, a way out of the situation may be to build greenhouses from plastic pipes with their own hands.

You can design and build a greenhouse from plastic pipes yourself, without resorting to outside help. And such a greenhouse made of plastic pipes will serve throughout the year, for several seasons in a row. An obvious advantage when building greenhouses from plastic pipes is the prevalence, long service life and low cost of polypropylene products.

CHOOSE A LOCATION FOR CONSTRUCTION

When choosing a future location for building a greenhouse made of plastic pipes, you should take into account a number of factors that affect the quality and quantity of the future harvest.

There are the following options for placing a future greenhouse made of plastic pipes on a garden plot:

1. You need to place a greenhouse made of plastic pipes, created with your own hands, in an open space, away from other buildings on the site and large garden trees. This placement option can be combined with the placement of small shrubs and plants around the greenhouse. This will add aesthetic appeal to the building.
2. If, due to the small area of ​​the site, it is not possible to use an open space of sufficient area, you can provide for the location of the greenhouse with one side adjoining the wall of an already erected building, house or barn. With this option, an important condition will be the location of the other sides of the greenhouse on the south side in order to receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

SELECTION OF FORMS

The most common form when constructing a greenhouse from plastic pipes is an arched structure. This is primarily due to ease of construction and relative cheapness.

When choosing a form for the construction of a future greenhouse from plastic pipes, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the garden plot and the location chosen for the installation of the structure.

If the greenhouse made of plastic pipes will be located in an open area, then it is better to choose a gable model. In the case where the greenhouse will adjoin one side to the wall of an existing building, it is more advisable to choose a lean-to model.

The base of the greenhouse can be made in different geometric shapes, be it square, rectangle, circle, oval or trapezoid. Recently, tent-shaped greenhouses have been gaining popularity.

Attention! Greenhouses of this design have greater light transmission than classic versions.

PROS AND DISADVANTAGES OF BUILDINGS FROM PLASTIC PIPES

Construction of a greenhouse from plastic pipes has a number of advantages over structures made from other materials:

The main and, apparently, only drawback when building a greenhouse from plastic pipes is its lightness. This can cause the entire structure to sway in strong winds. At the same time, this problem can be solved by using additional metal rods driven into the ground to strengthen the structure.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS REQUIRED FOR CONSTRUCTION

Before you make a greenhouse from plastic pipes, you should calculate the necessary materials and tools. It is recommended to do this immediately after determining the location on the site for the future structure. Such measures will help to avoid additional costs already at the construction stage of the structure.

So, for work you will need:

1. Timber or boards to form the base of the greenhouse. Before starting construction, it is recommended to treat wooden elements with special protective substances that will protect the wood from rotting.

   Advice! To save money, it is recommended to use improvised ones rather than branded professional wood processing products. For example, impregnate wooden beams with resin, coat them with drying oil several times, and treat them with a blowtorch.

2. Polypropylene pipes. It is necessary to calculate how many linear meters will be needed to build a greenhouse. For a more accurate calculation when building a greenhouse from plastic pipes with your own hands, it is recommended to make a drawing of the future structure. After obtaining a certain footage of plastic, you can add 10% of the total length for reserve.
3. Polyethylene film is used to cover the polypropylene structure. It should be strong enough. High strength will protect it from tearing and allow it to be used for several seasons.
4. Several metal rods. The reinforcement must be at least 1 m long.
5. Nails and screws.
6. Handles with locks and hinges for installing doors and windows in the greenhouse.
7. Additional metal loops for fastening individual plastic structural elements.

CONSTRUCTION OF A GREENHOUSE

If, at the stage of calculating the materials used, a detailed drawing of the future structure was drawn up, then you can immediately begin directly building the greenhouse. Otherwise, it is recommended to draw up a detailed diagram of the structure - this will significantly simplify and speed up construction work.

INSTALLATION OF FOUNDATION

Before you make a greenhouse yourself from plastic pipes, you need to create a foundation. For the future foundation of the greenhouse, you need a flat, flat area with a small depression. Therefore, before starting work, you must level the ground and make a small depression of a few centimeters. As a material for the foundation, you can use either boards or wooden beams.

Attention! Before proceeding with the installation of the foundation, the wooden boards must be cleaned with a plane or sandpaper, and also treated with protective substances.

To strengthen the foundation of the future structure, it is recommended to use additional metal brackets or corners. A metal corner is attached to each internal joint of wooden boards. If timber is used as the material for the base of the greenhouse, it is more advisable to use staples that are driven in at each external joint of the structural elements.

The finished foundation should lie tightly on the soil prepared for it. If there are gaps between the foundation and the ground, they must be covered with earth.

FRAME INSTALLATION

After building the foundation, along its outer perimeter, metal reinforcement should be driven into the ground in increments of no more than 100 cm. Pre-prepared and cut sections of plastic pipe of the required length are placed on these metal rods.

To secure plastic pipes, self-tapping screws are used, with the help of which the base of the pipe must be pulled to the wooden foundation. Plastic couplings, corners and crosses are used as connecting elements in the horizontal plane of the structure, which must first be drilled inside. This will allow the pipes to pass through the connectors.

WE CREATE A ROOF

When choosing a material for building a greenhouse roof, you should take into account the features of some of the most common options:

1. The optimal and common material for covering a greenhouse is polyethylene film. If financial capabilities allow, you can use a special reinforced polyvinyl chloride film as a covering. This material has good thermal insulation, which will allow you to maintain the desired temperature in the greenhouse even at night. At the same time, this material is highly transparent and transmits up to 95% of sunlight during the daytime.
2. A polycarbonate roof has the longest service life, but is more expensive and can present additional difficulties during construction. In addition, such a roof cannot be quickly dismantled, unlike a polyethylene one.
3. Textile material for covering such as “agrotex” has low thermal insulation. True, the lightness and simplicity of this material allow installation and dismantling work to be carried out in the shortest possible time.

CONCLUSION

To summarize, we can say that the option of independently building a greenhouse from plastic pipes in a garden plot seems to be the most acceptable option. Such designs have a number of undeniable advantages. These include the lightness and strength of the structure, its durability, ease of installation and dismantling. In addition, such greenhouses are ultimately the cheapest option, and from an aesthetic point of view they are in no way inferior to expensive factory-made counterparts.

We will learn how to build a greenhouse from plastic pipes with our own hands from the video

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In summer cottages you can find various forms of greenhouses in which both vegetable and flower plants are grown. Thanks to this, you can grow non-seasonal crops throughout the year. The success of the business will depend not only on the design of the greenhouse, but also on what material was used in its manufacture. Our goal is to tell you what types of greenhouses there are, and what material can be used in their construction, and we will also look at how the process of constructing a greenhouse on a summer cottage occurs.

Depending on the design features, greenhouses can be:

• arched;
• single-pitched;
• gable.

The first type of design is characterized by an arc-shaped roof, which allows plants growing inside the greenhouse to receive more daylight. The big advantage of this form will be the absence of snow in winter, so you will not be in danger of deformation or breakage of the structure.

If you decide to install a greenhouse close to any country house building, then the option with a pitched roof is suitable for you. This model is very economical, since, in addition to reducing the cost of materials, you also save free space on the site. The only drawback of this design will be the accumulation of snow in winter, which will have to be cleared off to protect the structure from deformation.

The most common option is the gable form of the greenhouse, which is very spacious for plants and people. In some cases, summer residents equip a kind of recreation area in such buildings, which allows them to combine business with pleasure.

Types of greenhouses, their advantages and disadvantages

Today, summer residents have several options for materials that can be used to cover greenhouses and greenhouses. They differ in their structure, price and performance characteristics, so you can choose the material according to your capabilities and requirements.

The most popular material for covering greenhouses will be:

• glass;
• polycarbonate;
• film.

If you are not limited on funds, then the best option would be glass and polycarbonate greenhouses, which are distinguished by their strength and performance characteristics. Film is a budget option for greenhouses that has been used for several decades.

You can see what your greenhouse should be like in the video below:

Advantages and disadvantages of greenhouses made of various materials

To figure out which material is better for greenhouses, it is necessary to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Glass

This material is considered the most suitable option.

Its advantages include:

• transparency, which allows you to provide the greenhouse with daylight;
• resistance to chemicals, even if they get on glass, they are easily washed off;
• when exposed to sunlight, the material does not emit harmful toxic substances;
• wind resistance.

Its disadvantages include:

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a polymer plastic that is increasingly used in greenhouse coverings.

Its advantages include:

• strength;
• transparency;
• high thermal insulation rates;
• protection of plants from UV rays;
• ease of care.

Its disadvantages are:

Film

This material is distinguished by its ease of use and budget-friendly qualities, especially since the experience of using such material has been confirmed for decades.

Its advantages include:

Its disadvantages include:

• windage;
• poor resistance to frost, which is why it has to be removed after summer use;
• short service life.

DIY greenhouse construction

Summer residents are forced to build greenhouses for growing vegetable or flower crops, firstly, to get a harvest earlier than usual, secondly, to grow crops that are not suitable for a particular climate, and thirdly, to increase the amount of harvest.

Greenhouses allow you to create favorable conditions for the growth of any plant. If it is not possible to purchase a ready-made structure, then you can always build it yourself, using all your skills.

The first question you will have is where to start? So that you don’t have to rack your brains for a long time, we have drawn up an action plan for you, following which you can easily build a greenhouse on your site.

Place for a greenhouse

The first thing you need is to choose a place to locate the greenhouse. To do this correctly, pay attention to the following requirements:

Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

The second issue you need to decide is the size of the greenhouse. To calculate everything correctly, think about how much and what you will plant in the greenhouse. If you plan to plant tall plants, then the best shape of the greenhouse will be arched or gable, the height of which will provide you with convenient care for your crops. You can calculate the dimensions yourself, or take as a basis the proposed version of a rectangular greenhouse with a gable roof.

The base of the greenhouse can be anything, round, square, rectangular or trapezoidal, it all depends on your capabilities.

Greenhouse frame

The frame is the main part of the greenhouse, so special requirements are imposed on the choice of material. It must be strong and durable, so for its manufacture choose:

• galvanized profile;
• steel profile;
• profile made of galvanized steel, with a square section;
• wooden beams.

The choice of material also depends on your capabilities; even the most budget option - wood - can last quite a long time.

How to make a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate can be seen in the video:

Greenhouse foundation

In addition to its direct purpose, the foundation plays the role of a pocket in which several high beds are placed. If its construction was carried out incorrectly, this can lead not only to its destruction, but also to cracking of the greenhouse coating. To avoid this, you need to listen to our advice:

It is necessary to install formwork around this trench, lay metal reinforcement bars in it and fill it all with concrete. The height of the foundation must be at least 20 cm.

If you follow these rules, you will create a strong and reliable foundation for the greenhouse, which will not be subject to ground movement.

Frame production and coating

The manufacture of the frame begins with marking the future greenhouse. You have already calculated what size your structure will be and even poured a foundation for it, now you can start assembling the main structure:

Ventilation

Inside the greenhouse, under the influence of sunlight, a greenhouse effect is created. To create an ideal microclimate for plants, greenhouses must be equipped with a ventilation system.

Ventilation can be provided by vents located on the sides of the greenhouse or doors. Ventilation helps plants planted in a greenhouse get sick less after being transplanted into open ground. But drafts must be avoided so as not to harm them.

When placing such vents in the roof of the greenhouse, you can ensure the movement of warm air to the street, and open doors will ensure the passage of cool air. There will be no draft, and the air will change.

If you have a small greenhouse, then for good air exchange two vents located on the roof of the greenhouse will be enough.

To make air exchange faster, instead of roof vents it is better to equip side vents, which will be located above the ground.

Conventional ventilation cannot be used to grow tropical plants, so ventilation can be equipped with vents similar to blinds.

Greenhouse tricks

Summer residents who have been working in greenhouses for several years can tell you a lot of tricks on which the yield of vegetables or other crops depends. But everyone, without exception, will answer that growing plants depends on the crop itself, on the amount of heat supplied, on the length of daylight hours, on ventilation, on proper watering and regular fertilizing.

We will share with you some of these subtleties and tricks:

From all of the above, we can conclude that several types of material can be used to make a greenhouse, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you are planning to make a greenhouse yourself, then by adhering to our action plan, you will accomplish this without much difficulty. Remember that equipping a greenhouse with vents is just as necessary as watering the plants.

As a rule, planting is done in the spring, but you need to take care of the conditions, in particular we are talking about protection from low temperatures. Especially when it comes to vegetables.

Greenhouses and greenhouses do an excellent job with this task. Let's see how to make it from almost improvised materials below.

How is a greenhouse different from a greenhouse?

Before delving into the question of how to make a greenhouse, let's determine the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse:

• A greenhouse is used for growing seedlings and further planting them in open beds; plants can be kept in a greenhouse all year round;
• The required level of temperature in the greenhouse is maintained due to the presence of compost or manure in the soil; in the greenhouse there is an additional, third-party source of heating;
• It is possible to grow trees in a greenhouse, but this cannot be done in a greenhouse.

What types of greenhouses are there?

The greenhouse can be stationary or portable (a photo of a greenhouse at the dacha is shown below).

A stationary greenhouse can have all sorts of shapes; the most common model is the butterfly (it got its name due to the doors that open on both sides).

Portable, often in the form of a tunnel. The main material in both cases is polymer film.

From all this it follows that it is quite possible to make a greenhouse with your own hands; this is the same creative process as growing cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.

Material selection

Before we consider how to make a greenhouse with our own hands, we will deal with the issue of choosing a material.

When choosing a material, it must be taken into account that it must meet the following requirements:

• Good light transmission;
• Resistance to various types of deformation, such as strong gusts of wind;
• Easy to install and assemble the entire structure;
• Durability.

As for the materials used, the cheapest, and most importantly practical, is film, and here are its types:

• polyethylene;
• stabilized film;
• polyvinyl chloride

Covering materials include:

• agril;
• lutrasil.

In order to finally decide and understand which material is preferable, it is necessary to compare them and consider the pros and cons of each.

Glass

The advantages of glass include: it transmits approximately 94% of light, lasts a long time, and retains heat.

The disadvantages: it gets very hot in the summer, there is a heavy load on the main frame.

Film

The advantages of this material include: low cost, low weight, no foundation required.

Note!

Disadvantages: fragility, difficult to wash.

Polycarbonate

Pros: transmits light well, high level of thermal insulation, lightweight and durable.

What to use to make a greenhouse frame

The frame is a kind of base for a greenhouse; most often it is made of wood or plastic, less often of metal pipes.

Wooden frame

The main advantage is its environmental friendliness. It is also worth noting that it is very simple in terms of installation.

For installation you will need the following tools: hammer, screwdriver, saw, nails, rubber as a sealing element, wooden beams, ruler.

Note!

It is advisable to cover the wooden elements of the future structure with drying oil before the installation process.

Execution Sequence

First of all, a beam is attached to the mortgage fastening; it will then become the base. Then the main beam is placed around the perimeter of the foundation, and everything is temporarily secured with nails.

Side and corner beams are fastened diagonally with timber. The door frame is installed to the side posts. The cornice is attached to the top of the side and corner beams.

Roof

In the area of ​​​​the points where the vertical beams are fixed, it is necessary to remove a beam, the length of which is 2 m. The roofing beams must be fastened at an angle of 30 degrees, they are connected to each other by a beam. In the area of ​​the end points they must be supported by vertical guides.

The final fastening of the roof frame is done using corners and strips on self-tapping screws.

Note!

Doorway

First the door frame is attached. Do not forget that in the middle and upper parts the opening is secured with special stiffeners.

Application of metal pipes

A greenhouse, as mentioned above, can be made from metal pipes, and also with your own hands. This design is more wear-resistant.

You will need: a welding machine, a hammer, a grinder, a special attachment for working with metal (disk).

The pipe is divided into two equal parts. Tees are welded to the edges of the base pipe, and crosspieces are welded every half meter. The cut elements must be welded to the crosspieces.

Special tees are attached to the arch to secure the door pillar.

Covering the greenhouse

Once the frame is ready, you can start covering.

Film

The easiest material to use is film. It is necessary to cover the entire structure, leaving a margin of 15 cm, and then cut it off.

Polycarbonate

The front side of the polycarbonate is the one where the drawing is depicted. First you need to cut the sheets. Seal the sections with sealing tape on top and perforated tape on the bottom.

First, the polycarbonate is attached to the top, then to the sides. It is attached to the frame with a special profile, as well as rubber gaskets.

Finally, the seal and door hardware are installed.

Ventilation

In greenhouses, in order to create ventilation (ventilation), you just need to open the doors, but it is advisable to do this in warm weather.

A greenhouse is an indispensable thing for a gardener who is going to harvest a large harvest of tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables in the future. By approaching the design wisely and following all the instructions, everything will definitely work out.

DIY greenhouse photo

Vegetables from your own garden are much healthier and tastier than purchased ones, as every summer resident will confirm. But although theoretically such products should also be cheap, in practice maintaining a greenhouse costs a pretty penny. Therefore, if you are planning to start growing cucumbers, tomatoes and herbs just for yourself, it is worth considering options for greenhouses made from scrap materials. And we will tell you how to build them with your own hands.

Greenhouse from scrap materials: what can be used for construction

A thrifty owner never gets rid of what else may be needed. Therefore, a lot of things are inevitably collected at the dacha that can be put to use and set up a greenhouse on the site. Of course, only a summer greenhouse without heating and a capital foundation can be almost free, but even this will help you get the first harvest several months earlier than when growing in open ground.

A greenhouse made from old windows can have impressive dimensions.

Before building a greenhouse, you should decide what you plan to save: time, money or your own efforts. For example, a greenhouse made from old windows will cost almost nothing, but you will have to work hard to remove old paint from wooden frames. A greenhouse made of PVC pipes is installed very easily and quickly, but you will need to buy the pipes and fittings themselves; it is unlikely that you have enough leftovers lying around at your dacha for a full-fledged greenhouse. On the other hand, if appearance is not particularly important, you can try to “dance from the stove” and combine several materials at once that were left after construction and renovation.

Material options for inexpensive frames

The frame of the greenhouse must be strong enough to support its own weight and the weight of the skin. In addition, it is desirable that it not be destroyed by elevated temperature and humidity, but this problem is easily solved with special impregnations or protective paints.

So, to build a greenhouse you can use:

1. Willow twigs are the cheapest and most environmentally friendly material. You can cut thin branches of willow or hazel in a nearby forest or planting along the road. It is best to harvest in late February-early March, before the trees begin to sap. When choosing, you should give preference to long flexible branches with a uniform length; young trees have many of these. The only preparation of the material is to clean the branches from bark and, possibly, thorns. Impregnation with agents against bugs and rot is desirable, but not required. Without protective equipment, the greenhouse will be more environmentally friendly and cheaper, and a damaged branch will be easy to replace if necessary. A frame made of branches can be installed alone in just a day, but it can last up to 3 years. Willow frame is only suitable for low-rise greenhouses and regions without strong winds. Otherwise, due to the high flexibility of the frame and the windage of the skin, the greenhouse may be blown away by a strong gust of wind.

   Birch branches - a flexible base for a high arched greenhouse

2. Pallets or pallets for transportation are a good source of boards. If desired, you can build walls from solid pallets, but you can also disassemble the pallets into components. The boards will serve to fasten the wooden frame of the greenhouse, and for the base you will need to buy beams. If you do not plan to make the greenhouse high, you can get by with just boards and additionally strengthen the frame with metal mesh. Keep in mind that this option is suitable for warm regions and places where strong winds rarely blow.

   Using this principle, you can build not only such a small greenhouse, but also a full-fledged greenhouse

3. Chain-link mesh or reinforcing mesh are excellent materials for sheathing support.. When there is a large distance between the frame elements, the film or non-woven membrane may sag. To prevent this from happening, first stretch the mesh and only after it cover the greenhouse with the selected material. The mesh will perfectly strengthen the frame of the building and prevent the cladding from flapping in the wind. You can attach the mesh to the frame with wire or plastic cable ties (they are inexpensive and sold in every hardware store). Just remember to make sure that the sharp tips of the mesh do not tear the skin. If you cannot position the material so that the cut edges rest on the ground, you should protect them. The fine mesh mesh can be framed with a thin water pipe by cutting the pipe on one side and hiding the ends in it. In a large-mesh one, it is easier to insulate each tail separately, for example, by placing a piece of heat-shrink tubing on it.

   If you have a large amount of unnecessary wire, you can build a mesh yourself

4. A metal profile for drywall will also come in handy. If after repairs you still have scraps of durable galvanized profile, it can be used to strengthen the frame of the greenhouse. If this material is not enough to construct load-bearing elements, it will serve perfectly as a spacer between wooden pillars or to support the base of a gable roof.

   It is easy to build a greenhouse roof from a plasterboard profile, even without special fasteners

5. Polyethylene water pipes or rubber hoses are excellent protection for the frame. The load-bearing capacity of this material is only enough for a small greenhouse, but if there are thin reinforcing bars or at least branches inside, you can build a good arched greenhouse. For the bottom trim, you will definitely need to build a box, since soft pipes simply stuck into the ground will not hold. The finished frame looks neat and aesthetically pleasing, resistant to humidity and high temperatures. But frost can cause rubber to crack, so this option is better suited for collapsible summer greenhouses.

   In a small greenhouse, pipe clips can be used to secure the sheathing.

6. PVC pipes are a reliable and durable basis. Craftsmen even make stairs and chairs from PVC water pipes, and it will be much easier to build a greenhouse frame from them. This material is completely impervious to moisture, high and low temperatures, and is not particularly afraid of animal claws and mechanical stress. To connect the pipes to each other, you do not need self-tapping screws; they are fastened due to the temperature melting of the ends of the pipes and fittings. But making a tall greenhouse with a large number of cross connections can be too expensive. To save money, it is worth constructing arches from leftovers, and fastening them at the top with the same pipe or wooden plank using plastic ties. The ends of the pipes will need to be inserted deeply into the ground or into prepared holes in the wooden frame. To strengthen the frame, the first and last arch can be made from thicker pipes.

   If you make an arched greenhouse from PVC pipes, fewer fittings will be required

7. Glass fittings are a replacement for metal rods. You may have unused fragments left after pouring the foundation, laying glass blocks or creating monolithic walls. These trimmings can be connected to each other and used to strengthen the spans of the arched greenhouse, or placed in strips over the sheathing material so that strong winds do not tear it away from the greenhouse frame. Glass reinforcement is resistant to mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences, does not rust, and bends easily. Therefore, when it is necessary to replace the covering film, the reinforcement can be temporarily removed and then reused. If you have 5-6 long rods or a roll of glass reinforcement at home, you can use them to make the frame of an arched greenhouse without additional materials. Only the height of the greenhouse is limited - a maximum of 2 m; for higher greenhouses it is necessary to make support pillars under the highest point of each arch.

   The strength of the glass reinforcement allows the construction of high arches that an adult can easily pass through

8. Metal fittings are a durable but expensive option. Buying it specifically for a greenhouse will be too expensive. But if after construction you have scraps left, it’s worth making a kind of foundation out of such reinforcement. Stick the rods around the perimeter of the greenhouse at equal distances from each other so that a third or a quarter of the length sticks out above the ground. It will be possible to tie vine branches or plastic pipes to them so that the frame is more reliable and moisture-sensitive materials do not come into contact with the ground.

   The reinforcement frame of the greenhouse looks very neat

9. Old logs with defects can still be useful. Perhaps, during the construction of a summer house or bathhouse, you rejected logs with cracks or pockets of rot and never found a use for them. Wood of this quality is excellent for the foundation of a greenhouse, since the load on it is very small. You just need to build a rectangle of logs and bury it 7–10 cm into the ground, and a reliable foundation for the future greenhouse is ready. A wooden, metal or even plastic frame can easily be attached to the logs and they are compatible with all types of cladding, so this foundation is suitable for any non-permanent greenhouse.

   In order for the square of logs to keep its shape well, a recess should be cut in the top ones as in the photo

10. Bags of earth - a well-forgotten old thing. At the peak of the passion for environmentally friendly construction in America, the method of creating earthen walls was revived. The essence of the method is that plastic bags (woven, like for sugar or flour) are filled with slightly damp soil and stacked on top of each other. The volume of earth in the bags decreases from the bottom row to the top, so the wall gradually becomes thinner. The foundation is a series of the same bags, but filled with fine or medium-fraction crushed stone. In an earthen greenhouse you can install windows and doors; the easiest way is to install wooden boxes under them at the stage of folding the walls. After the earth has dried, the walls will need to be plastered with cement or clay mortar. And it is best to make the roof light and transparent, for example, from polycarbonate and wooden beams. In terms of thermal insulation, such a structure is comparable to a thermos greenhouse buried in the ground. The cost of a greenhouse is the cost of bags and a roof, and its durability is estimated in tens and even hundreds of years. The only drawback of an earthen greenhouse is high labor costs; you will have to assemble a team of assistants and dig up a lot of soil.

    Bags make interesting structures with curvilinear shapes

11. Straw blocks are another option for an eco-friendly greenhouse. If you have the opportunity to take straw briquettes to the field for free or buy straw briquettes cheaply, they will be an excellent basis for a warm and safe greenhouse. It is best to prefer rye straw, since rodents and insects are almost not interested in it. The blocks are simply installed on top of each other without fastenings, but for better adhesion they can be pierced with reinforcement rods. The roof and, if possible, one of the walls of the greenhouse should be made transparent so that the plants do not suffer from lack of light. If you want such a greenhouse to last for more than one season, you should lay the blocks on a foundation or frame made of wooden beams with protective impregnation.

    Straw walls of a greenhouse are an excellent heat insulator

Whatever material you decide to use, try to make the frame smooth, especially if it will be sheathed with film material. Otherwise, knots and nicks will easily tear the film or non-woven membrane.

Greenhouse sheathing: what you can find in the pantry

The greenhouse lining should provide good access to direct sunlight to the plants. It is especially important not to filter out one part of the spectrum, because the absence of red is bad for growth, and without blue, fruit does not appear. It is because of this that only transparent or white material is used as cladding for greenhouses, but not colored.

Despite the variety of shades of cellular polycarbonate, greenhouses are sheathed only in white and light gray

To cover the greenhouse, you may need leftover building materials, unnecessary fragments of old decoration, and even the contents of a pantry that no one has looked into for a long time.

1. Window frames with glass - a standard and unjustifiably forgotten option. The process of replacing old windows with metal-plastic or energy-efficient wooden ones is still ongoing. Therefore, even if you don’t have any lying around, unnecessary windows may well end up with neighbors or near a house where reconstruction is being carried out. As a rule, the owners of these useful materials do not require any payment for them, so at worst you will spend money on gasoline. If the aesthetics of the structure are important to you, you will have to remove the glass, clean the frames of old paint, impregnate them with protective agents and re-decorate them. It is also important to select windows of approximately equal sizes so that the finished structure looks harmonious. But when only functionality is important, you just need to scrape off the pieces of paint that are ready to fall off with a small metal spatula, and apply impregnation to the bare areas of the wood. The size of the transoms is also not too important; they can be combined as desired. But glass greenhouses are distinguished by the best environmental friendliness and light transmission. Unfortunately, glass can be broken by hail or large amounts of snow, so it is better to make only walls from it, and choose another option for the roof or further strengthen it.

   Window units with vents are best placed at the ends

2. Plastic bottles - free and durable material. In nature, a bottle takes more than 300 years to decompose, so plastic containers will last for decades as a greenhouse lining. The weak point of the greenhouse can be the frame and string on which the bottles were assembled. Bottle plastic is completely resistant to moisture, frost, putrefactive bacteria and fungi, so the greenhouse will not need to be dismantled for the winter. Bottles for wall cladding are used in two versions: columns from containers with a cut bottom and sheets of sewn or glued plastic, which were cut from the middle parts of the containers. Empty bottles create the effect of a thermos, perfectly retain heat in the room and do not let light frosts in. The temperature inside the greenhouse is so stable that tomatoes and cucumbers can often be harvested in early December. But if they are not laid tightly, wind can penetrate between the posts and they will need to be additionally glued. A greenhouse made from plates turns out to be more airtight, but it is more difficult to make and more material will be needed. You will have to cut straight parts of the bottles, align them with an iron and sew them together on long winter evenings, so that in the spring the prepared transparent sheets can be immediately mounted on the frame. When using plastic containers, you save not only on the cladding material, but also on the skeleton of the greenhouse. Since the bottles are very light, thinner beams can be used to construct the frame than for polycarbonate cladding. You should prepare for setting up a greenhouse from plastic containers in advance, because it will take almost a year to collect the required 600–700 bottles.

   Various options for using plastic bottles for lining a greenhouse

3. Agrofibre or non-woven membrane is a good choice for a greenhouse. This material is often purchased for arranging lazy beds, but it also performs just as well on the frame of a high three-meter greenhouse. Agrofibre protects crops from low temperatures (down to -5 o C), perfectly allows moisture to pass through (unlike film and polycarbonate), provides air exchange (windows for ventilation are simply not needed), and is easy to repair (the patch is glued for 1.5 minutes). Even a beginner in gardening can make an effective greenhouse from agrofibre. After all, the low weight and excellent permeability of the material completely compensate for errors in the calculations of the frame (it can be very light), lack of ventilation and other possible errors. The only drawback of agrofibre is that it is afraid of claws, so if cats or dogs walk around the area, the sheathing will have to be protected with a fine-mesh metal mesh.

   The width of the agrofibre allows you to cover a small greenhouse without joints

4. Film is the most popular option, it is chosen by 70% of beginners and at least 50% of experienced summer residents. Manufacturers offer many types of specialized film for greenhouses, which can allow rain to pass through, does not tear due to additional reinforcement, and can remain on the frame in winter. But if you are trying to save money, you can easily use the leftover film from the closet or buy a cheap one. It will last no more than a season, but it will provide the plants with the necessary microclimate and will not require a very reliable frame.

   For reliability, the film is always fixed through a gasket (bar, rubber strip, plastic molding, etc.)

5. Cellular polycarbonate is the second most popular cladding material. Beginning summer residents shouldn’t buy it specifically, but if after building a canopy at the front door, carport or gazebo, you have scraps left over, you can put them to use. If there are few residues, use polycarbonate for the roof of the greenhouse, since it is this that bears shock loads from hail and mechanical loads from snow. It is polycarbonate that can be used to protect the roof of old windows to prevent glass from breaking. This material is compatible with frames made of metal, wood, and PVC pipes.

   Polycarbonate cladding is suitable for both arched and pitched greenhouses

In accordance with the selected material, select a convenient method for sealing joints. For example, the film is additionally glued with tape, the polycarbonate is assembled with special fasteners or sealed with adhesive tape made of foamed polymer, and the non-woven membrane is simply overlapped and fastened along the entire length of the joint. If you ignore this stage of work, drafts will begin to circulate in the greenhouse and tender plants will die.

Sheathing fasteners made from improvised means

When finishing a greenhouse with rolled materials (film, non-woven membrane), they must not only be secured to the frame with a construction stapler, but also the fixation must be further strengthened. A net or slats on the outside of the greenhouse will prevent the wind from ruffling the material in the spans between the ribs of the frame.

A clip for attaching film from the neck of a plastic bottle is an excellent example of a useful device made from scrap materials.

Useful as a fastener:

• plastic net for cucumbers: resistant to atmospheric loads, cheap, but suitable only for small greenhouses;
• fishing net made of durable synthetic threads: durable and reliable, can last for several years, but is destroyed over time due to ultraviolet radiation;
• linen cord: inexpensive, weather-resistant, and when properly tensioned, provides good protection for sheathing made of rolled materials;
• wooden planks: require impregnation and sanding, do not always look aesthetically pleasing, but do not require costs;
• clips for PVC pipes: easy to install and hold securely, they help secure the pipe and the wooden strip together, but are only suitable for structures with a pipe frame.

Now it’s time to look into the pantry/utility/shed and select from old stocks the materials that will be useful for arranging the greenhouse.

Photo gallery: greenhouses made from leftovers

After construction, triangular scraps of polycarbonate remained - make a hemispherical greenhouse If you carefully combine a painted drywall profile and old glass, you will get a very beautiful greenhouse
Different plants require different growing conditions, so the greenhouses on your site should not be the same A hemispherical greenhouse made from PVC pipes and regular film is very stable The remains of wooden lining are an excellent option for cladding the bottom of a wooden greenhouse When there is a brick left after construction, you can use it to build a side for a greenhouse You can make an analogue of an industrial polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands

Getting ready for construction work

First, you need to determine which greenhouse design option will suit you best.

Perhaps a non-standard greenhouse design will be more convenient for you than a conventional house with a gable roof

When choosing, take into account the size and shape of the area allocated for the greenhouse, the quantity and type of available building materials, the number of beds, etc. When free space remains only near the house itself, it is worth saving on materials and organizing a wall-mounted greenhouse. And for those who prefer not to spend a lot of time on gardening work, a small round greenhouse is quite suitable.

According to this drawing, it is supposed to build a greenhouse from wood, but if you remove the extra braces, you can use it to assemble a metal or pipe frame

Among gardeners and gardeners, the most popular are medium-sized greenhouses in the form of a house with straight walls and a gable roof. To build the 3x4 m option shown in the drawing, you will need about 150 m of beams, boards or metal pipes. They will need to be cut into fragments of 1.5 m each (vertical posts) - 30 pieces and 1 m each (horizontal lintels) - 110 pieces. The remains will be useful for braces and the frame of the door leaf.

To cover the walls you need 35.5 m2 of film or membrane, this is almost 24 linear meters from a roll 1.5 m high. This roll width is optimal because it allows you to close the walls with a minimum number of joints. To finish the roof you need 24 m2 of material, which corresponds to 16 linear meters of a 1.5 m roll of film or 4 sheets of cellular polycarbonate measuring 1.2x5 m. For gables (triangles at the front and back) you need another 8 m2 of material, that is 5 .5 linear meters of film 1.5 m wide or 2 sheets of polycarbonate measuring 1.3x3 m.

How to make a cheap greenhouse from leftovers with your own hands

We will consider step-by-step construction using the example of the given drawing, but we will implement the project using thick branches and ordinary packaging film. Branches left over after cleaning the garden or cut from the nearest forest are the cheapest and most environmentally friendly material for a frame. So that you do not doubt the strength of the structure, choose branches at least 5 cm thick (in cross-section) without visible defects. The trunks of young acacia trees, which accumulate after clearing forest belts along roads or forests, are excellent for this purpose. You can negotiate with a forester who will tell you what material you can take for your purposes.

Thanks to this manual holder, winding the film onto the frame is greatly simplified

Packaging film at first seems unsuitable for our purposes, but it is no less durable and transmits light no worse than specialized materials for greenhouses. It will have to be wound in several layers and thanks to this it turns out to be stronger than ordinary thin film, less prone to windage and sagging in the spans between the ribs of the frame. Working with the material is as simple as possible; you don’t even need to call an assistant to cover the greenhouse. At the same time, stretch film provides excellent protection from low temperatures, so the plants in the greenhouse will bear fruit even with light frosts. The brand of material does not matter; you can buy any packaging film in a store or order it online. You need 2 large rolls.

Since the greenhouse lining will be very light, the frame can also be made lighter by reducing the number of vertical posts and struts. In this economical option, you will need 6 columns of 2.5 m, 3 of 3 m and 2 of 6 m for horizontal connections.

Covering the perimeter with boards will significantly increase the life of the film.

To prevent the film below from suffering from mechanical damage, chicken beaks and cat claws, it is better to trim the frame with boards. It is advisable to impregnate them with a protective agent, since they will constantly be in contact with wet soil. About 40 m of boards will be required.

Consumables you will need:

• butterfly hinges for hanging doors and windows (the easiest to install);
• door handle;
• a latch or latch for fixing the door and vents in a closed state;
• wood screws (the simplest stainless steel with black coating, 76–90 mm long);
• spare jigsaw files;
• long reinforced staples for a construction stapler;
• thin rubber hose or drip tube - about 40 m;
• stationery or packing tape;
• metal corners for attaching vertical posts (you can cut wooden ones, or make additional braces from boards).

The length of the screw should be almost twice the diameter of the cross-section of the part being fastened.

Required tools:

• jigsaw for cutting beams;
• a screwdriver for fastening wood (if you have a construction gun, you can use it and fasten the frame with nails);
• construction stapler for fastening sheathing.

Let's get to work.

1. Prepare the required number of thick branches, free them from branches and cut them to size. If desired, you can completely remove the bark, sand the posts and impregnate them with protective agents. The bottom can also be dipped in used engine oil or creosote.
   

   It will be great if you can choose even stems of uniform thickness

2. Dig 9 holes around the perimeter of the greenhouse, pour some gravel inside and place vertical posts in the holes, thoroughly compacting the soil. In the front part of the greenhouse, there should be 4 posts at the end, so that two of them protect the doorway. Secure horizontal jumpers from branches along the top of the posts and at a height of 1 m from the ground level. Cover the lower part of the frame with boards.
   

   Sheathing with boards gives the frame additional rigidity

3. Connect the highest posts with a branch to form a ridge. Make a roof frame from six long branches, resting one end of the branch on a vertical post and the other on the ridge.
   

   With a height of central pillars of 3 m and side pillars of 2 m, the optimal slope of the gable roof is obtained

4. If you haven't taken the time to clean and sand the posts, wrap the frame with tape. If this is not done, the stretch film will tear during the process of wrapping the greenhouse and will serve very little later.
   

   When wrapping, do not pull the tape too tightly so that the jagged edges on the branch become invisible.

5. Wrap the frame with film in a circle, trying to make an even layer over the entire area of ​​the walls. There is no need to leave a hole under the door; it will be cut out in the next step.
   

   You will need to wind at least three layers of film

6. Cover the roof of the greenhouse with a thicker film and carefully seal the joint with tape. Along the outer contour of the building, place a fixing strip on top of the film. It should be secured with nails, since the self-tapping screw will slightly crush the material when screwing it in, and this can subsequently lead to rupture. But if the roof film is reinforced, you don’t have to worry about such consequences.
   

   The film must hang just below the slopes so that it can be secured with a bar

7. Fix the film on the frame elements using construction staples. To ensure that the fastening is strong and the film does not tear, use a thin rubber tube as a gasket.
   

   Attach the staples along the width of the tape at a distance of 20 cm from each other

8. Cut a hole in the film for the door and window (at the opposite end) and additionally strengthen the film at the cut-out location, treating the improvised threshold especially carefully. Knock down a rectangle of door and window panels from the remaining branches and cover it with film using the described technology. Butterfly hinges can be attached to the frame directly through the film.
   

   The edge of the door frame should be insulated with foam tape

   The greenhouse is ready for the first tests. Leave it closed overnight and check the temperature difference between inside and outside the next day. If it is less than 10 o C, then you should look for the remaining cracks and additionally strengthen all the joints of the materials.

If you fence off the beds with boards and fill the path with crushed stone, your boots will remain clean after working in the greenhouse

This greenhouse will not require additional finishing. You can start arranging the beds and building a path for easy access to all the plants.

As you can see, a home greenhouse is not always very expensive. Perhaps a greenhouse made from leftovers will not become the main decoration of your dacha, but it can definitely please you with excellent home-grown vegetables when the season has not yet begun or has already ended.