How to make a greenhouse a house. Ideas and ready-made solutions for building the cheapest greenhouses with your own hands

Definitely nice, and especially if you built a wooden greenhouse with your own hands. And it's not just about saving money. Just such buildings are erected for themselves. Therefore, all work is carried out with the highest quality, with love.

But when the question arises of building a greenhouse, a lot of other accompanying ones immediately appear. For example, where to install a greenhouse, what material to choose, which of the designs is the best?

Greenhouse structures

A greenhouse or greenhouse comes in a variety of designs. Let's look at each of them separately, determine the advantages and disadvantages.

Arched homemade greenhouses

Here the roof is made in the form of an arc. So plants can get a lot of light. This is due to the fact that the sun's rays, as it were, are scattered over the surface. In this case, the plants receive the necessary heat and light. In winter, such an arched greenhouse does not suffer from snowfalls, therefore, such a design does not carry the risk of collapse or deformation.

single slope type

Such greenhouses are usually attached to one of the parties to the capital structure. For example, to the wall of the house. Some of the amateur gardeners attach these structures to the southern walls. Such a greenhouse is inexpensive, and also allows you to significantly save space on the site.

If the room to which the single-sided wooden greenhouse, made with your own hands, will adjoin, is equipped with heating, this is a huge plus for the gardener. So you can significantly save on resources for heating the greenhouse. However, the disadvantage is that in the winter season, snow will not roll off the roof of this design. Therefore, you need to regularly clean the roof of this building.

Gable design

This is probably the most common and popular type of such buildings. Here the roof is decorated in the usual form. One of the maximum advantages that such greenhouses have is space and freedom for plants and directly for the gardener.

Many lovers of country rest equip heifers for summer cottages with some kind of recreation areas. So you can combine useful and pleasant while relaxing on a suburban area.

Winter summer

If greenhouses are actively used in the winter, then be sure to consider a way to heat this useful structure. You can organize a place for a greenhouse close to pipes and batteries. However, some prefer to equip the structures with a separate one. But in most cases, these are unnecessary worries and troubles. The stove must be constantly monitored, because plants are not too fond of temperature changes.

If you need winter ones, then you need a reliable base for them. The greenhouse should be installed on a solid foundation, and the roof of such a building should also be well strengthened. Indeed, in winter, under the snow, the structure can easily be wrinkled. And more often than not, the roof is easily destroyed.

Also, some erect the so-called thermoses. Such a building is buried in the ground about two meters. Naturally, for such a greenhouse it is necessary to dig a foundation pit, to make a reliable foundation. Many make special walls from a thermoblock, insulate such buildings, then organize heating. This process is quite laborious and also costly. Therefore, a wooden greenhouse, made by hand according to this principle, is a rather rare structure. Much more common than hotbeds for the summer.

Summer option

If the winter version is time-consuming and expensive, then the summer one is a cheaper, at the same time reliable and practical solution. This is one of the simplest and most inexpensive greenhouses. The frame can be made without special skills from wood or timber. If you use this design carefully, then the building can stand for several seasons.

As a sheathing, an ordinary plastic film for greenhouses is used. It can be purchased at most hardware stores or markets in your city. In winter, it is removed, and in the spring it is again easily and naturally stretched onto a wooden frame. You can fasten the film with ordinary nails.

If for some reason you do not have the opportunity to make a frame for such a wooden building, then you can use plastic

Work on the construction of this structure does not require any serious skills.

Wood as the main building material

It has a lot of advantages. A wooden frame for a greenhouse is easy to assemble from a bar with your own hands. This material has high strength. It is also the most environmentally friendly among all others. The beam can be purchased at any workshop or on the market. Wood is less durable than metal, but with proper processing, it can last quite a long time.

In order to build a greenhouse, you do not need an expensive timber. One of the main requirements is quality, drying, absence of any defects and knots.

The only drawback is that the material must be treated with special compounds to protect it from mold, fungi, and decay.

How to build a wooden greenhouse yourself? The process of building a country greenhouse will not take you much time. With a certain amount of desire, as well as with minimal skills in working with wood, it is possible to build a high-quality greenhouse in an extremely short time. So, our design will be built in several stages.

We prepare the place

First of all, decide on the place where the building will be located in the future. This should be as flat as possible. It is desirable that it be located in an open space. You also need to choose a place under the sun.

After you have decided on the place, you need to start leveling the ground. After a while, check the evenness of the soil with a level.

If you plan a greenhouse with heating, then you need to start laying communications for heating right now.

Dimensions and shape of the future building

The area that our greenhouse will occupy depends on the size of the land plot, the plants that will be grown, as well as financial capabilities.

You need to know that, for example, a large arched greenhouse does not provide great benefits. The fact is that it is not recommended to plant plants that have a wide variety of characteristics in one greenhouse. To put it simply, it will not work to grow tomatoes with cucumbers in the same greenhouse.

A building of approximately 3 * 6 m is considered a comfortable area. So it will not take up too much space on the site. And the harvest that can be harvested is more than enough for the whole family.

In order for us to get a wooden greenhouse, the drawing must be well studied and thought through all the nuances. There are many different designs, but the most popular is an ordinary greenhouse with This design is easy to sheathe. You can use both film and other materials. To save on materials, we upholster the walls at the landing level with wood panels.

We create the foundation

The main requirements that can be presented to the foundation for a greenhouse are strength, as well as stability and, of course, reliability. There are many options for its arrangement. The cheapest and especially practical is the strip foundation.

To create it, it is necessary to dig a moat along the perimeter of the future structure. It should be 15 cm deep. If the ground is soft enough, formwork from the same wood should be used. Then you need to check the site for horizontality. Next, fill the moat with concrete.

After that, 12 mm anchor bolts must be mounted on all sides and at the ends. Make sure that they match the frame as much as possible.

Now you can rest for a few days, and at the same time wait until the foundation dries. When the base is sufficiently frozen, you need to lay bricks on top of the site in several rows. Pay attention to the fact that the seams between the bricks match the bolts. Then you need to cover the layer of bricks with some kind of waterproofing.

Building a frame

At this stage, our greenhouse will receive a frame. In order for this to happen as quickly as possible, it is necessary to cut a pre-prepared beam and fasten it with a bracket or corners. So we got the foundation. Now we make installation on the finished base. Soon the greenhouse from will be ready.

Before mounting the frame on the base, it is advisable to attach a wide load-bearing beam to our foundation or base. The board will be attached to it. Elements must be fixed with corners or some kind of bolts. Here you can also apply reinforcement. Before mounting the carrier beam, it is advisable to treat it with protective equipment.

After these works, you can proceed to fixing our base for the frame around the entire perimeter. So, you need to check that the base is as solid as possible. The places where the elements will be connected should fit snugly against each other.

Here is the base installed. Now it's time to tackle the rest of the frame. Here it is necessary to connect the cut boards according to the drawing.

We sheathe the structure

When the frame is completely ready, you can rest a little more. And after the rest, you can proceed to the skin. For sheathing, you can use different materials. Wooden greenhouses under the film are no different from greenhouses under glass or polycarbonate. Let's consider each material separately.

Polyethylene is the most economical option for greenhouse cladding material. It has one drawback - it is a rather short service life. Polyethylene will last a maximum of one season. The material is good in the summer. In snowy winters, it must be removed, otherwise it will tear under the weight of snow. Also, under it, the material fades and transmits light worse, and this adversely affects the growth of vegetable crops. Polyethylene will have to be changed every year. Thus, a film for greenhouses as a sheathing will not allow you to engage in early planting of vegetables. In addition to all this, the material does not allow you to create and maintain the correct temperature inside the greenhouse. In hot weather, crops will be very hot, and on cool nights, vegetables will freeze.

However, if only polyethylene is available for you, then we sheathe the structure sequentially. You need to start work on one side of the structure, then go to the other through the roof slopes. It is also better to fix on the frame in a certain sequence. Wood slats are perfect for this purpose. To prevent the film from tearing, it is better to make special visors at the corners of the roof.

Glass is a more durable and reliable option. It perfectly transmits light, is able to maintain the correct temperature regime. The earth in glass greenhouses warms up perfectly. This design will be chic for early planting vegetables. But at the same time, cladding a greenhouse with glass is an expensive solution. This requires special skills. Also, it should not be used in areas that are not guarded by anyone. Most greenhouses use 4mm glass for windows. There are also special options designed only for use in greenhouses.

If glass and film are not relevant for you, then there is a modern way out of this situation. This is polycarbonate. A wooden greenhouse for polycarbonate does not have any significant differences from the film version. This is a fairly lightweight material that does not require a reinforced frame. It will cost much less than glass. The service life of polycarbonate is more than 15 years. Therefore, this is optimal. The material perfectly transmits sunlight, and also maintains the correct temperature regime inside. Also, such a sheathing allows you to reliably protect plants from ultraviolet radiation. The material has a very light weight, but also has a fairly high strength. At the same time, it can be perfectly cut with an ordinary knife.

Polycarbonate does not lose its advantages even in severe Russian frosts. Polycarbonate is easy to install and even easier to maintain. Polycarbonate greenhouses (wooden frame) are sheathed with special self-tapping screws. If the base of the greenhouse is even, then there will be no problems. You will be able to use it in the shortest possible time.

We equip a greenhouse

Now that the construction work is completed, we can proceed to the arrangement of our greenhouse. To do this, you need to make sure that there are no gaps, and if they are, they need to be removed. Next, the installation of heating systems and lighting should be carried out. It is also necessary to organize a water supply system for watering plants. Ventilation is also very important.

Well, now that the wooden greenhouse is completely made with your own hands, you can decide what vegetables to grow in it. Perhaps, thanks to this article, someone will build a greenhouse and enjoy juicy greenhouse cucumbers in the spring.

So, we found out how do-it-yourself greenhouses are made to give. As you can see, the work is not so difficult - it is enough to have the necessary set of tools and a detailed sketch of the future structure.

Unfortunately, not the entire territory of Russia is conducive to growing their own vegetables and fruits for many months. In most climatic zones of the country, the summer season is extremely short, while many people strive to grow as many crops as possible on their site for their subsequent harvesting. In this connection, gardeners and gardeners willingly use greenhouses, with the help of which the growing season is extended, which makes it possible to harvest early and more plentiful. In some cases, if you have a well-built greenhouse, your own grown crops can be consumed all year round.

Of course, for these purposes, it is necessary to take into account a number of features, which we will discuss in detail in this article.

Peculiarities

A self-built greenhouse always warms the gardener's soul. The design can be of various sizes and shapes, and homemade greenhouses are no worse in use and functionality. The device can be easily seen on the diagrams and drawings, the materials for manufacturing can be different. Often, fiberglass reinforcement is used as a frame, there are also no problems with a removable covering material - basically, it is a plastic film, glass or polycarbonate. Given all these features, it is possible to build such a structure on the site in one weekend, and home-made buildings are in no way inferior in quality to those purchased in the store.

Advantages and disadvantages

Convenient home-made greenhouses are very popular among summer residents. The undoubted advantages include the fact that a self-made greenhouse in the country will cost relatively cheaply. A budget greenhouse can be made from different materials, the most important thing is to equip it with an opening roof and take care of the quality of lighting for plants. Speaking of the cons, of course, it should be taken into account that you will have to spend time studying the types and structures, as well as familiarizing yourself with the drawings and plans for building in the country.

Kinds

Greenhouses are designed taking into account the botanical characteristics of those plant species for the needs of which the greenhouse is built. These also include the amount of light transmitted and the temperature inside. The greenhouse can be both year-round and used in a certain season. In general, all types of greenhouses are suitable for growing a variety of crops - be it Chinese cabbage or flowers.

As a first approximation, greenhouses can be divided into the following categories:

• lean-to;
• gable;
• drop-shaped;

• domed;
• polygonal;
• Dutch.

• In most cases, shed roofs are used in the construction of greenhouses or winter gardens, since this type of building has a passage. As a result, it is easy to enter the premises without regard to weather conditions. This type of greenhouse is best installed on the south side of a residential building.
• Greenhouses with gable roofs are very popular in our country and are currently the most common design.
• A drop-shaped greenhouse is a very durable structure, perfectly transmits sunlight, does not retain precipitation in the form of snow on the surface, but it is quite difficult to mount it, so such greenhouses are rarely made independently.
• The domed greenhouse has a spectacular appearance and does not require a large consumption of materials, but its main advantage is that, due to the design features, it can be installed in areas with seismic hazard. The main tasks during construction are good sealing and high-quality insulation.

• Polygonal greenhouses are pleasing to the eye, perfectly transmit light and are not afraid of gusty winds. The difficulty during installation lies in the fact that it is necessary to carefully organize the space in order to evenly distribute heat inside.
• The Dutch version of greenhouses is reliable and durable. Due to the sloping walls, sunlight penetrates inside, which allows you to significantly increase the yield. Among other things, this option is also quite budgetary.
• Recently, the so-called "booths" - a greenhouse that looks like a tunnel - have become widespread among summer residents. Most often it is erected for growing tomatoes and peppers. This type of greenhouse is functional, convenient, does not require large expenses, allows you to consistently get a good harvest, which allows you to call it the best type of self-built on the site.

Also, greenhouses are divided according to the principle of the possibility of movement:

• folding;
• stationary.

Folding greenhouses began to gain popularity relatively recently. Their advantage is that the lightweight frame is easy to fold and move to another place in the backyard if necessary. At the same time, the greenhouse itself is very ergonomic and has a low cost, which deserves the attention of summer residents.

Stationary greenhouses, on the contrary, have long become classics of the genre. To install a structure of this type, an underground foundation and a metal frame are required. Many people have long preferred this type of greenhouse, because over the years of operation in a variety of conditions, these designs have gained fame as strong and durable devices. There are no particular difficulties in installing such a greenhouse, and it is also quite easy to maintain it.

Also, greenhouses can be divided according to the type of initial characteristics - these types of greenhouses are named after their creator:

• greenhouse according to Kurdyumov;
• greenhouse according to "Mitlider".

Greenhouse Kurdyumov is an autonomous unit, otherwise it is called "smart". This design is distinguished by the possibility of automatically maintaining the temperature inside itself, a special plus is the presence of drip irrigation of plants, which does not require human intervention. This type of structure supports the possibility of natural restoration of the soil in the beds or in containers with plants. Mitlider's greenhouses are considered a special subspecies of greenhouses. Its distinguishing features are know-how in indoor air ventilation systems, a special arrangement of the frame - beams and struts create a solid structure for the covering material. Typically, such greenhouses are located from east to west, which opens up wide opportunities for the plants to perceive sunlight.

Natural boards are usually used as the main material for the Mitlider greenhouse., which makes it possible to "breathe" and prevents the formation of condensate. As a rule, such greenhouses are large, which gives an additional opportunity to create a special microclimate for the plants inside. Usually a greenhouse looks like a low structure with a gable roof with a difference in height. Another possible option is an arched building with a roof of two levels.

Another option for greenhouses is a three-row greenhouse. As a rule, such buildings occupy a medium or large area, the beds in them are located in three levels, two passages are located between them.

The farm greenhouse consists of a metal frame, over which a film coating is stretched. This type of greenhouse is very loved by the population, because it has a low cost, moisture-proof and resistant to environmental influences.

Many summer residents fell in love with a spherical greenhouse for its unusual appearance and excellent transmission of sunlight.

Characteristics

When choosing consumables for future construction, be sure to pay attention to what time of the year the greenhouse will be mainly used.

Winter greenhouses must be equipped with a heating system, it is better to install them near the heating system of the house. In another case, as an additional equipment, you can put a stove in the greenhouse room, but this will create additional difficulties - the stove requires additional attention, it needs to be heated and, most importantly, make sure that it does not overheat, which is fraught with temperature fluctuations. A winter greenhouse must be installed on a solid foundation, among other things, this type of construction requires additional strengthening of the frame and roof in order to avoid possible damage due to heavy snowfalls.

It is also possible to build a so-called "thermos greenhouse" on the site - this structure can boast of a particularly strong characteristic, since its foundation goes into the ground by two meters. However, the installation of such a design has a number of additional difficulties - it is necessary to dig a pit for it, the foundation must be separately strengthened to avoid deformation, thermal blocks are usually used as the material for the walls, which will subsequently need to be insulated. All this is quite expensive, therefore, such greenhouses are rarely found on personal plots.

Summer greenhouses in the vast majority of cases are a frame on which a plastic film is stretched. This version of the outer skin is the most budgetary, and with careful use, the film is quite capable of lasting two seasons.

Creating the simplest greenhouse with your own hands at a summer cottage requires certain preparatory work.

The first thing to take care of is the preparation of the site for construction. Try to choose a site as flat as possible, it is also highly desirable that there are no obstacles to sunlight on it. Next, the site is properly compacted. If a tree is chosen as the base, then the prepared boards are treated with an antiseptic solution and knocked down around the perimeter. Reinforcement is installed in the corners of the boxes as an additional reinforcement. If for some reason it is not possible to allocate a separate place for the construction of a greenhouse, an alternative option would be to adjoin one wall of the greenhouse to any building - it can be a residential building or some kind of utility room.

When choosing a material for the frame, it is necessary to take into account all their characteristics. We must not forget that the frame itself and the doors must have special strength so that the structure cannot be damaged by winds, temperature fluctuations and snow masses during the winter period. None of the frame elements should be massive and prevent the penetration of light. If a collapsible design is intended, it should be made of lightweight materials and be able to be dismantled without additional effort.

Frames for greenhouses can be made of the following materials.

• Wood- the most environmentally friendly and easy-to-use material that does not require the use of any professional equipment and does not require specialized skills during the work. Since the tree tends to rot, special attention should be paid to its pre-treatment.
• aluminum profiles involve the creation of a rigid, but lightweight frame, while it is durable. This material has a higher cost, its use requires the use of equipment for fastening parts together.
• Plastic(as well as metal-plastic) parts have a low specific weight, are strong enough, and are not subject to external influences such as rotting or corrosive changes. Due to the flexibility, it is possible to change the shape of the parts, which provides ample opportunities for creating greenhouses with arches or two slopes. But it must be borne in mind that plastic elements require mandatory attachment to the foundation or ground.

• Steel frames are also quite widespread, but they require a strip fundamental foundation. If the elements are galvanized, they will last longer, as they are not subject to rust and corrosion.
• Drywall is a successful combination of low weight of the material and ease of work. Practice shows that a frame made of this type of material is inexpensive, easy to use, serves for a long time and is easy to disassemble. Gable, arched greenhouses, as well as Mitlider's greenhouses, are perfectly created from it.

Sometimes window frames are used as frames - which are characterized by excellent thermal insulation and relative ease of installation. However, it is worth considering their relative fragility - even with careful care, the service life is unlikely to exceed five years.

The next step in the greenhouse construction process after choosing a suitable location is choosing a suitable foundation. Its type directly depends on the weight of the planned structure, since in most cases the greenhouse frame weighs a little, and the covering material additionally adds windage to the building, which often causes destruction due to strong gusts of wind.

• The brick foundation is easy to install, reliable and quite suitable for most greenhouses. But it must be taken into account that laying a brick foundation requires specific skills and is quite a costly affair.
• Stone foundations are rightfully the most durable and strong. Heavy metal frames can be installed on it. This option cannot be called a budget option, as a rule, foundations for capital greenhouses are created from stone.

• Concrete is inexpensive and hardens quite quickly, but requires the creation of formwork and frame fasteners.
• A tree is often used as a foundation, but it should be borne in mind that a wooden base is not suitable for capital construction, since it is unlikely to last longer than five years even with the most careful care.
• In some cases, when building a greenhouse, it is quite possible to do without a foundation. These are portable greenhouses of small size, the windage of which is reduced by fastening directly to the ground with small pegs.

When choosing a coating material, it is necessary to take into account all the advantages and disadvantages of different types of materials.

Basically, the following options are used:

• polyethylene film;
• glass;
• polycarbonate.

The most affordable type of covering material is a stretch film. However, it cannot boast of durability and even the highest quality coatings require replacement every three years. A greenhouse with arches or arcs, as a rule, is covered with two layers of film, which creates excellent conditions for plants inside the building. The material perfectly transmits the sun's rays, but for the same reason it is subject to rapid wear and, as a result, a decrease in light transmission. In addition, very often condensation forms on the inner surface, which can also be attributed to the disadvantages of this type of coating. There are also options for a polyethylene film, additionally equipped with reinforcement. This option is stronger, more resistant to gusts of wind and will last longer.

Glass can be safely attributed to the traditionally used materials in the manufacture of greenhouses with their own hands. Glass coatings are durable and have excellent thermal insulation, however, it should be remembered that glass heats up very quickly and at the same time weighs quite a lot. A separate challenge is the replacement of broken glass.

Polycarbonate is a type of hard transparent plastic., which in structure is a material with large cells. It has sufficient impact resistance and light transmission, it is very flexible, therefore it is suitable for the construction of greenhouses with an arched vault or in the form of a tunnel. Since this type of coating consists of air-filled cells, it can be argued that it is the most thermally insulating among all possible options.

When considering this type of coating for a potential greenhouse, also consider the following disadvantages:

• when exposed to sunlight, the material will inevitably collapse;
• when carrying out installation work, do not forget that polycarbonate tends to expand greatly when heated;
• in the absence of protective elements at the attachment points, the honeycombs of the material will quickly fill with dust or mold, which will render the coating unusable.

When attaching, also consider the following features:

• mount the material in such a way that water can drain along the longitudinal strips from the inside;
• on one side of the material there is an ultraviolet filter - this side must be outside the greenhouse;
• fasten polycarbonate on specialized self-tapping screws with a thermal washer on them, pre-drill holes in the sheets.

Also note the following rules:

• Only transparent polycarbonate is suitable as a covering material. Despite the great aesthetic appeal of the color, it transmits the sun's rays much worse, this is fraught with the failure of the greenhouse to fulfill its intended purpose.
• Be sure to check the presence of a layer with a UV filter.
• Choose the thickness of the layer depending on the season in which the greenhouse will be used. In summer and autumn, the thickness of the sheets should be approximately 10-15 mm, in winter - at least 15 mm. Also, this value directly correlates with the strength of the frame - the greater the thickness, the stronger the supporting structure should be.
• When connecting sheets, use special profiles; the use of nails is strictly unacceptable.
• Sheets must not be overlapped.
• Pay attention to the accessories and do not try to save on them - the use of an end profile and end tapes will significantly extend the life of the greenhouse.

When choosing, pay attention to the manufacturer. Do not forget that the miser pays twice, so it is better not to purchase Chinese materials, despite their attractive cost. Among the well-established in the market in recent years, we can note the domestic company "Kinplast". This Firm offers a range of different coatings - from inexpensive to premium options.

Sheets of the Russian company "Actual" will last about 8 years.

This is an inexpensive option, has a fairly soft structure, is well mounted.

• The Russian-Israeli production "Polygal Vostok" offers a material that is characterized by rigidity, flexibility, ease of installation, but also has a high price tag.
• "Winpool" is made in China, very soft, fragile, inexpensive, you can count on a service life of 3 years.
• "Sanex" is also a representative of the Chinese market, rather hard in work, not very convenient for installation, will last about 4 years.
• "Marlon" is brought to Russia from the UK, the material is quite expensive, but it will last at least 10 years subject to the rules of operation.

Since the market at the moment has a huge number of options, you can get confused and choose among them not very high quality.

To prevent this from happening, pay attention to the following points:

• The surface of the sheets must be uniform and smooth, without any protrusions, irregularities and chips. Also, it should not fall into layers.
• The ribs should be at a 90 degree angle and in no case should there be any waviness.
• Try to find out from the seller under what conditions the material was stored. Improper storage conditions will quickly reduce its life. Sheets should be laid flat, but if they are stored upright on edge or rolled up, the quality of the material may be reduced.
• Some summer residents prefer a mixed type of covering materials. With this option, the side walls are usually glazed, and the ceiling is covered with a film. Some farmers prefer to cover the frame with spunbond sheets.

Separately, it is worth paying attention that it is not recommended to grow different types of crops at the same time in the same greenhouse - in other words, the same room is not suitable for seedlings and fruit and berry crops at home. This aspect must be taken into account when choosing the type of greenhouse. Arched greenhouses occupying a wide area will not bring much benefit. He considers the optimal size of a simple greenhouse to be 3 by 6 meters - it does not take up much space, in such a greenhouse you can easily grow enough strawberries, cucumbers or tomatoes for a family.

Preparation of materials

Before starting work, carefully study the best designs and drawings from the resources provided in the public domain - this will allow you to see the most complete picture of the opportunities provided. Of course, you can create a scheme yourself, but remember that this will require not only the investment of additional time and energy resources. In addition, an error may creep in during the calculations, which can lead to the loss of the quality characteristics of the greenhouse.

If we present the work execution scheme point by point, a general description of the construction stages will look like this:

• determining the type of building required;
• preparation of the scheme;
• creating a frame;
• carrying out preparatory work on the site of soil where it is planned to install a greenhouse;
• laying the foundation;
• mounting the supporting frame;
• fastening of a translucent coating.

When designing on your own or choosing among ready-made options, start from the requirements for the finished structure, as well as from the available materials and preferences in choosing crops. Most often, arched structures with a frame made of PVC pipes are located on personal plots - this is an inexpensive type of greenhouse, quite simple in execution. If a flat area is chosen for construction, it is best to stop at a model with two slopes. In the case when it is planned to put a greenhouse adjacent to the wall, it is more logical to make it single-sided. The base can be a geometric figure of various shapes - a square or a rectangle, a trapezoid.

Before purchasing the materials needed for construction, it is necessary to make a calculation. This will help prevent unnecessary costs in the future.

When the design is completed and the greenhouse manufacturing scheme is selected, it is necessary to start preparing the necessary components for future construction.

If we take the simplest option, which can be built in a couple of days, the set of materials will be as follows:

• Soaked with an antiseptic, treated with drying oil or burnt with a blowtorch boards. Please note that if you want to save money, you can not buy specialized tools, but use time-tested old-fashioned methods for processing wood and timber. If funds allow, of course, you can purchase factory chemicals.
• Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes. Before making a frame, calculate the required amount of material for construction. After making the calculation, add 10% in reserve, especially if you have to make a pipe bender.
• Durable polyethylene film - the more wear-resistant the material is, the longer it will not require replacement with a new one. You can also use polycarbonate sheets if desired.

• Metal rods or pieces of reinforcement one meter long.
• Self-tapping screws and nails.
• Hinges for fastening vents and doors.
• Fittings - handles for doors and windows.
• Special loops for fastening pipes.

If a decision is made to use HDPE pipes to form a frame, consider the following features:

• Pipes contribute to the creation of tightness inside the building, which creates favorable conditions for the ripening of crops.
• This material is easy to use and does not require special skills.
• With the help of pipe fasteners, it is easy to mount and dismantle if necessary. Thus, the frame is easy to assemble for a warm climate period and remove again when the greenhouse is not in use.
• There is no need to use additional reinforcement. The pipes themselves have good characteristics and are self-sufficient in use.

• Plastic, unlike wood or metal, is much less affected by the environment. Finished products do not have to be treated with anti-corrosion and other protective substances.
• The building may well last at least a decade.
• Since the material has a low specific gravity, the greenhouse can pump with strong gusts of wind. In this case, it is necessary to install additional metal elements in the ground to strengthen the structure.

Please note that metal corners can be used to strengthen the foundation., they will give the structure strength. This element is attached from the inside at the junction between the boards. If the base is made of timber, it is better to use metal brackets for fastening, which are mounted on the outside. The finished foundation should fit snugly into the soil. In case of cracks, sprinkle them with earth.

Assembly and installation

When mounting the frame into the finished foundation, metal reinforcement is driven into the ground from the outside at a distance of no more than a meter. Parts of plastic pipes pre-cut to the required length are placed on these blanks. To fasten them together, as well as to mount them on a wooden base, use screws or nails, self-tapping screws. To install the elements horizontally, as a rule, pre-drilled plastic sleeves, angles and crosses are used, which enable the pipes to cross the connecting elements.

When polycarbonate sheets are used as a covering material, the steps will be as follows:

• The protective film is removed from the sheets, the upper side is marked with a marker. For convenience in carrying out work, it is better to make several marks on each sheet.
• Make blanks for the end walls - for this purpose, a sheet of standard size is cut into three equal parts 2 by 2 meters. One of the parts is applied to the end in such a way that all cavities are located vertically. The left side of the sheet is aligned to the left edge, the contour of the required arc is outlined with a marker. A similar manipulation is done with the right edge, as a result of which the sheet acquires the contours of two semi-arches. After that, they are cut out with a jigsaw, leaving a tolerance of 3-5 cm, and the right end of the building is cut out in the same way.
• The cut parts are attached to self-tapping screws at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Try not to pinch the material too much. The excess is cut off with a knife.

• The third part of the sheet is used for the door and vents. The sheet is vertically applied to the doorway. The contour of the door is outlined with a margin, blanks are cut out and attached. The remains are used to close the space above the door. Joints are best fastened with special profiles.
• To cover the top of the greenhouse, the sheets are laid on arcs, aligned with the bottom edges and trimmed. The sheets should protrude slightly above the end of the building, then they are fixed in the corners.
• The second sheet is overlapped on the first one at the junction, the corners are fixed and put on self-tapping screws from the bottom edge at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

In the event that it is decided to cover the greenhouse with plastic wrap, the stages of the work will be as follows:

• The film is attached to the frame with staples or wooden slats. Fasten it in such a way that there are no tears in the canvas.
• It is necessary to cover the front and back of the frame with a film. In the part where it is planned to make a door, the film is bent inward.
• Re-measure the doorway, then you need to assemble the frame from the tubes. A film is attached to the resulting frame, the excess is cut off and the door is hung with hinges, the vents are designed according to the same principle. If glass doors are planned, carefully study the fasteners of glass to metal.
• This version of the greenhouse is suitable only for the summer. The next and final stage after the construction of the greenhouse is the preparation of the soil and the planting of seedlings.

As mentioned above, for the winter version of the greenhouse, it must be equipped with a heating system. Despite the apparent complexity, it is not so difficult.

The types of heating include:

• solar;
• technical;
• biological.

Technical, in turn, is divided into the following subspecies:

• water;
• gas;
• furnace;
• electric.

The solar type is based on the greenhouse effect, which is formed when natural light enters the greenhouse space. This heating option is used only in summer when the sun is active. In the cold season, to achieve the best result, a mixed type is used - a biological and technological option.

The biological species is used both in winter and in summer to heat the soil. The soil is removed from the racks, after which manure is laid on the bottom, horse manure is best suited, since during its decomposition a large amount of heat is released. Soil containers are filled with manure by a third. In addition to manure, you can also use compost - one of its components is also a waste product of horses. Pour all the earth back into the racks. When the decomposition process begins, the roots of the plants will begin to warm up. In addition, it will serve as an excellent fertilizer, since manure and compost contain many minerals for plant growth.

The electric heating method is also easy to use. For these purposes, a heating cable laid in a special way is used. Read the instructions first. Please note that the heating cable can be purchased with a temperature controller, so it will be quite simple to create the optimal temperature for seedlings.

Water heating is arranged as follows: the entire perimeter of the greenhouse is laid with a double row of pipes, which are looped into an electric boiler. To connect the boiler, it is necessary to lay an electrical cable. Please note that the boiler can stand inside the greenhouse or can be taken out to its limits. Experts insist that the boiler must be taken outside and pre-insulated. These manipulations are done with the aim of more uniform heating. You can also heat the room with a heat generator. The boiler is directly purchased in the store or you can make it yourself, but keep in mind that in the second case you cannot do without special knowledge and skills. Further, the procedure is similar - pipes are laid from the boiler under the racks, which are looped. Any solid fuel can be used as a fuel: coal, firewood, woodworking waste.

If gasification is present on your personal plot, heating can be arranged by means of gas burners or heaters, for this purpose they must be placed around the entire perimeter of the building. With a small greenhouse area, it is quite possible to use gas cylinders. If the greenhouse occupies a large area, then it is necessary to connect to the general gas system of the house. Gas burners create carbon dioxide, which plants need. To distribute heat evenly, fans are installed in the building. Burners can also be replaced with a gas factory boiler, but be sure to look at its country of manufacture.

As a heat source for electric heating of a room, aluminum radiators or electric convectors are used, which are installed at an equal distance around the entire perimeter of the building or located on both sides if the greenhouse area has the shape of a rectangle. This type of system is connected directly to the power supply or heating system.

You can also make a stove in the greenhouse, which is best located at the end of the building. A horizontal chimney is laid from the stove around the entire perimeter of the greenhouse. For these purposes, metal pipes or brickwork are suitable. When connecting the chimney and the vertical riser of the furnace, you need to make a small rise at the junction. The higher the riser, the better, because the stove will have good draft. With this type of heating, do not forget to prepare fuel in advance. You can put the stove in a pre-made recess in the ground.

In addition, a water oven can be made from a conventional oven. For this purpose, a boiler for water heating is installed on it, from which the pipes will go to the water tank. The pipes and the boiler are looped using wiring around the entire perimeter of the room. There is also another option - to collect pipes along each of the racks, thereby providing wiring for four different pipes.

We must not forget that plants require the creation of a special microclimate for their successful development and growth, special equipment will help to improve these indicators inside the greenhouse, with which you can increase the productivity and yield of grown crops. Additional equipment involves not only additional heating, but also the possibility of ventilation, irrigation and lighting. As you know, watering plants is a rather laborious process. An automatic system will help relieve the owner of a summer cottage from this hard work, while saving time and water.

Good room ventilation is extremely important in a greenhouse., as it prevents the formation of condensate and improves the overall microclimate, which undoubtedly benefits plants. Properly created air exchange will protect crops from overheating. For the natural movement of air, it is enough to open the doors and vents, an additionally installed fan or extractor hood will increase air circulation.

With a short daylight hours, additional lighting sources are indispensable. Special lamps will help seedlings get enough light in early spring or late autumn.

Best projects

Be sure to check out the best and most common options, you may have your own ideas.

For cucumbers

Separately, I would like to consider making a greenhouse for cucumbers as one of the most beloved vegetables. Any summer resident knows that cucumbers need warmth and high humidity. With the proper organization of protected ground, this vegetable is less susceptible to diseases and is able to produce a larger crop.

To get a rich harvest, the following requirements are necessary:

• daytime air temperature - no more than 30 degrees, night - no less than 16;
• soil temperature - about 23 degrees;
• calm air without drafts;
• humidity about 80%;
• high degree of illumination;
• insect access, if the variety involves bee pollination;
• strong structures for vertical movement of seedlings.

Due to the large number of details, the necessary climate is difficult to create in one room. Consider the general disadvantages and advantages of each type of greenhouse for a specific purpose - growing cucumbers.

The advantages include simplicity of design, ease of creation from improvised and existing materials. A small area and internal volume will provide good warming, it is well lit and easily accessible to insects for pollination. Among the minuses, one can note such characteristics as a low planting density - you can place a maximum of three pieces per square meter, inconvenience when cultivating the soil and harvesting. If you water the plants with a watering can, the water reaches the leaves, which can lead to a burn. The greenhouse needs constant opening and closing, otherwise the crops will overheat and die.

arch type with foil

The advantages of this type of greenhouse are that it is easy to build and does not require expensive materials, it has enough internal space for growing vertical bushes. The film coating retains moisture well, promotes rapid heating of the soil and air, and perfectly transmits light. Disadvantages: the film is a short-lived material and requires regular replacement, it has poor thermal insulation performance, therefore, in the event of early frosts, the greenhouse will have to be covered additionally. When building a greenhouse of this type, it is necessary to have vents, since drafts will inevitably occur when the doors are opened.

Coated with polycarbonate

Pros: high structural strength of the frame, high ceilings and ample interior space. Polycarbonate perfectly transmits sunlight, has an excellent ability to scatter it. Provides convenient conditions for watering plants and tillage, easy to harvest. The provided window openings provide good ventilation and absence of drafts.

Cons: high financial costs for the purchase of materials or finished products. Polycarbonate strongly reflects light, which causes energy loss. The coating and frame require constant maintenance; in winter, snow must be removed from the greenhouse. Difficult access to pollinating insects.

Gable with glazed wooden frames

The advantages are as follows: noteworthy design, which has already become a classic, demonstrates high thermal insulation properties. Good heating of the entire interior space of the room. Glass has excellent light transmission ability, when placing windows on the roof, the possibility of drafts is excluded. The ability to plant a large number of plants, the availability of convenient access to them. Among the shortcomings, it can be noted that the severity of the frame requires preliminary laying of the foundation. The tree requires mandatory preliminary and regular post-treatment, otherwise the frames will quickly begin to rot. It is also worth considering that glass is a fragile and traumatic material, and also does not have scattering properties at all, which can lead to burns of plant leaves.

With one slope

Positive characteristics: it is always attached to the house or barn on the north side, which ensures that the ramp faces south to receive the maximum amount of sun rays. The room assumes rapid heating and long-term retention of heat, and also gives scope for the choice of materials for construction. Negative characteristics: if the sun is active, it will be difficult to avoid overheating, curtains and a high-quality ventilation system are necessary. If a greenhouse is built next to the house, a prerequisite is good waterproofing and protection of the greenhouse from snow and ice.

Mitlider

The undoubted advantage lies in the special arrangement of the vents - they are located in the roof and facing south, which leaves no possibility of drafts and helps to maintain an optimal microclimate. The greenhouse is large, has high ceilings and plenty of space inside.

The disadvantages are related to the complexity of the design and the inability to build it yourself, without accurate drawings and installation skills. If the doors are closed, insects will not be able to get inside, either self-pollinating varieties are suitable for such a greenhouse, or you will have to additionally plant bait varieties. Among other things, the greenhouse requires close care.

in the shape of a pyramid

Pros: The center section is ideal for growing cucumbers vertically. It is well lit, easy to install, only budget materials are needed.

Cons: small area, inconvenient to care for plants. Insect access is difficult. The structure is unstable and can easily be blown away by the wind.

For tomatoes

Polycarbonate greenhouses create ideal conditions for the harmonious ripening of fruits. Tomato belongs to crops that love sunlight and heat, the optimal temperature regime for their cultivation is 22-25 degrees. If the soil has a high clay content, then humus, sawdust or peat must be added to the soil at the rate of one bucket per square meter.

Planted seedlings must be watered frequently until they are fully developed. If the nights are cool enough, it is better not to water the plants after sunset, so as not to overcool the soil. Watering from a watering can makes sense during the hottest time of the season. Next, the seedlings need to be cut and tied up, thereby ensuring uniform lighting and ventilation of the beds. With this growing option, tomatoes ripen much faster and it is possible to harvest a good harvest. After that, the plants are attached to wire gratings or pegs, giving them space for further development.

For greenery

In the cold winter period, there is nothing better than a bunch of fresh herbs, especially if it is grown by yourself. What is especially nice, greenhouse greenery is not too whimsical to care for and gives several crops a year. It is quite possible to choose the type of greenery based on your own preferences.

Most people who use winter greenhouses to grow herbs prefer dill, celery, and parsley.

• When growing dill, it is necessary to strictly observe the temperature regime - the thermometer should not fall below 15 degrees. In addition, dill needs constant spraying and does not tolerate drafts and cold winds, so be extremely careful when ventilating the greenhouse. The first harvest can be obtained in two months with appropriate care.
• When growing parsley, there are a few more nuances - firstly, this type of plant can be grown in the form of root crops or seeds. In the first version, the root crop must first be kept in sand, the temperature of which does not exceed two degrees, after which it is planted in highly moist soil. If it is planned to grow parsley from seeds, the seeds previously aged in a damp cloth are planted in the soil. As a rule, germination takes no more than ten days. The harvest is about one and a half kilograms of greenery per square meter.

• Celery loves well-fertilized soft soil; cow or chicken manure is perfect as fertilizer. The temperature in the greenhouse should be between 15 and 20 degrees. Watering for plants requires infrequent, but as plentiful as possible, and it is necessary to ensure that the water does not touch the leaves of the seedlings. Pay special attention to lighting, since the amount of harvest directly depends on the length of daylight hours.
• Many people are very fond of mint and are happy to use it in cooking. This type of plant tolerates frosts up to eight degrees below zero, while giving sprouts at the lowest temperatures above zero. Experts recommend using hydroponics or biological heating of the soil with peat as a soil. Carefully monitor the soil moisture, its drying is strictly unacceptable. If you plan to grow mint, it is best to equip the greenhouse with a drip irrigation system.
• Mint, like most crops, does not tolerate temperature changes, not only because sudden jumps can destroy plants, such moments can lead to a dangerous disease - powdery mildew. Also, for mint, extremely dangerous pests are spider mites and greenhouse whiteflies. You can defeat them by spraying the culture with industrial means or time-tested folk recipes.

For better engraftment of seeds in the soil, you must first dry them in a draft. If it is not possible to plant seeds directly, it is quite possible to grow seedlings at home and then plant them in the ground for 10-14 days.

Not all summer residents have the time and desire to understand the intricacies of the technology of building a greenhouse on the site with their own hands. At the moment, the market is filled with ready-made greenhouses of various options. The first thing to do is to decide for what purposes the greenhouse is being purchased. If we are talking about growing crops for family consumption, this is one thing, but if a summer resident considers a greenhouse as a way to increase his income and wants to put up the resulting crop for sale, the situation will be different. In the first case, you can get by with an inexpensive option, in the second, of course, financial investments will be much higher and the cost of maintaining a greenhouse will also increase.

Each gardener is attracted by beds with vegetables and other types of plants. And, probably, each of them dreams of greenhouses. In this article, we will consider various options for greenhouses, we will study the materials from which the greenhouse is made. Let's raise the question of whether it is better to build yourself or buy a ready-made kit. So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands? Let's start reviewing.

Materials such as polycarbonate, glass, polyethylene film are used to cover facilities for growing plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is mainly made of metal profiles or wood, and polymer pipes can also be used.

Depending on the type of construction, greenhouse structures are of the following types: arched, gable and single-slope. The greenhouse is most often installed as a stand-alone structure, but you can make an extension to a neighboring building.
Greenhouses are divided into winter and summer. In most cases, a winter greenhouse is a greenhouse.

In order to grow seedlings for flowers or early vegetables, summer residents use a frame made of metal profiles, wood or metal-plastic pipes to build greenhouses. And depending on the preferences for thickness, covered with plastic wrap. In order to preserve the film for any season, it is recommended to shoot it for the summer period. The film can not be removed if it is made of reinforced film.

If an all-season greenhouse is installed at the dacha, then it must also be additionally equipped with systems such as climate control sensors, a heating system, irrigation, and ventilation must also be installed.

Do-it-yourself arched summer greenhouse

Consider how this type of greenhouse is built. In order for this structure to be made quickly and efficiently, you need to prepare the material for it in advance. It is recommended to use a U-shaped metal profile. To do this, you first mark the shelves on the frame, and then bend at your discretion. After that, you will need a food film, the remains of corners, thick reinforcement, a cutting board.

To build a support for fixing a greenhouse or greenhouse, scraps from metal pipes are used. To do this, first mark the place where the building will be installed. After that, pipe sections are driven into the ground, with a margin of approximately 30 cm above the ground.

There is no big difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. They differ from each other only in size. Greenhouses in height are a maximum of one meter. Greenhouses can be of various sizes, depending on how and for what it will be used.

After the supports are installed, the metal elements, pre-bent, are fixed. To make the frame more durable, the arcs are fixed with a longitudinal rigid material. As such a material, a metal profile or reinforcing bar is usually used. It is attached to each arc. Boards are laid along the entire greenhouse, they will be the boundary between the beds. Then the film is stretched over the already finished frame. It is recommended to fix it with something additionally heavy, so that in a strong wind it will not be torn off the greenhouse.

Attached greenhouse and thermos greenhouse

Who has a limited amount of space in the country, it is logical to use the attached greenhouse. Since one side will be the side of the house, the temperature in the greenhouse will be much higher, and accordingly the plants will grow faster.

These types of greenhouses can also be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is recommended to install it on the southwestern or southern wall of the house. Thanks to this, a lot of daylight sunlight will come into the greenhouse and with it heat.

Another advantage of the attached greenhouse is the ease of conducting heating and electricity there. The rest of the structure can be made of materials such as glass, polycarbonate or special film.

A distinctive feature of the greenhouse - a thermos is that it is installed almost completely in the ground. First, a pit is dug to a depth of about two meters. Then the foundation is made. After that, the walls are built. You can also choose wall material. It is better to use wood, brick or foam blocks. As a result, it turns out that only a small part of the roof will protrude above the ground. The roof can be made from the same materials as conventional ground greenhouses: polycarbonate, film or glass. To prevent snow from settling on the roof, it must be made gable.

In winter, the ground does not freeze at such a depth, so you can not install additional equipment in a thermos greenhouse to keep the temperature at a constant level. If you cover the roof with a special reflective film, then this will give you the opportunity to collect and transform solar heat.

Many summer residents believe that the arched greenhouse is unstable. And then some of them decide to build a frame of wood. In order to build a wooden greenhouse, a number of conditions must be met. The durability of such a greenhouse will be ensured if a good foundation is made for it. Against rotting of a wooden frame, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic.

A wooden greenhouse is also chosen for the reason that almost anyone without special skills can build it. Woodworking is much easier than, for example, metalworking. When using metal as frames, basic knowledge of plumbing and welding is needed. To protect the greenhouse from freezing, it is recommended to use. It will be more reliable and additionally protected.

Foundation manufacturing

The first step in the construction of a greenhouse is the manufacture of the foundation. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The depth is about 20 cm and the width is about 30 cm. Pegs are installed along the entire length of the trench, to which formwork boards are nailed. After that, a frame of reinforcement with diameters of about 10 mm is installed in the formwork. It is believed that this particular diameter is well suited for the manufacture of the frame. Parts of the frame are fastened with wire and after that they are welded. When the frame is made, concrete is poured into the formwork along the entire perimeter of the trench.

To fill the entire void with concrete, you need to use a vibrator, if it is not there, then you can perform punctures in a spiral from the edges to the center to release air bubbles from the solution. The concrete mixture becomes strong after 3 weeks. However, if the outside temperature is high, it is recommended to put a film on top of the solution.

How to make a wood frame

If you lay roofing material over the foundation, then the wooden frame will last much longer. Next, the tree is tied. To make it you need a beam of 10 by 20 cm section. Its lower part is attached with self-tapping screws to the foundation. Then all this is combined with metal plates.

Then vertical racks are installed to the lower trim around the entire perimeter at a distance of 75 cm from each other. The upper part of the vertical structure is fastened with a wooden harness. For reliability, it is recommended to install spacers and struts.

A wooden greenhouse, as well as a thermos greenhouse, is covered with a gable roof. In winter, snow will not accumulate, and the roof will not sag under its weight. A gable roof is easier to install. To attach the material (glass, polycarbonate or film), you will need rafters. They are quite easy to make yourself out of wood. You will need a bar with a section of 10 by 4 or the same board. The structure is assembled on the ground, and then installed on top of the greenhouse.

First, a structure is made from two beams, like the letter "A". And only then identical schemes are gradually attached to it. Then they are all linked together with ridge boards. These boards are attached to both sides of the roof. The rafters are sheathed with sheathing, on which the roof material is attached.

roofing material

Why do many people make greenhouses themselves? Most will answer that it is much cheaper. And this is how it really is. The advantage of making your own is that you are your own designer. Choose your own size, shape, material, type of greenhouse. You also do the internal filling of the greenhouse yourself, as you prefer. And if you turn on ingenuity and engineering skills, you can make automatic watering and ventilation.

With independent construction, you choose the material for the manufacture of the greenhouse. Depending on the purpose for which the greenhouse is placed, the material is selected accordingly. In order to grow vegetables and seedlings, you can use a film. Polycarbonate or glass is needed if you want a smart greenhouse. And in this case, vegetables and flowers will always be on your table.

Everyone knows that the harvest of vegetables and fruits is many times greater than the harvest just in the ground. But not everyone has the opportunity to buy. Therefore, making your own greenhouse from film and wood is a very cost-effective step.

A film is used as a material, since it does not need to additionally make a foundation. The advantage of the film is that it is transparent.

Consider each material in more detail

List of tools: axe, hammer, level, welding, knife, self-tapping screws, nails, cord. This is the main list of tools, but others may be needed depending on the type of structure.

Greenhouse with a wooden frame, covered with foil

First, we take the bars, pre-impregnated with an antiseptic and dried. Cross section approximately 50 mm. The concrete base is made first. First, a trench is dripped, sand is laid on the bottom and poured with water. After some time, the trench is filled with a cement mortar. It is better to observe the following proportions by analogy: 10 buckets of gravel, 6 buckets of sand and 2 buckets of cement mortar.

Next, the racks are made. They need to make 6 pieces. 4 pieces for the side parts, about 2 m high, and 2 for the doors. To correctly make the bars, they are placed on a flat surface, the necessary measurements are taken, and only then they are attached to the base with self-tapping screws or corners with nails. Using a plumb line, we measure the level.

The ridge beam is used in the upper part of the greenhouse. Fastened with nails. Then everything is covered with polyethylene. Cover with a film with a small margin so that you can touch up later. Then the rail is fastened with nails to the timber.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse with a metal frame

As a base, such greenhouses use metal arches, approximately 30 mm in diameter. You can also take a tarred timber, a metal corner or a sleeper, for example. Holes are drilled in the tree, 10 cm deep every 150 cm for arches.

Side rails are attached - runs. At the top they are connected by a ridge rail. Staples are boiled from the inside, slats are inserted into them and compressed with bolts.

Greenhouse with two frames

In such a greenhouse, the sides are wooden frames. For their manufacture, a 3 by 4 rail is used. The height is usually from two meters. Width about one and a half. A film is stretched over the frames in 2 layers and only then the frames are installed in a finished wooden frame, matched to the size of the frame.

Scheme of a gable greenhouse from frames

The scheme is the same as for a conventional greenhouse with two frames. The only difference is that the rafters are attached to the top.

To do this, we take slats, one side is a skate, the second is the top of the structure. After bonding, the excess rails are sawn off.

Holes are made in a wooden beam for fastening the frame with nails. Part of the frame will be the side walls of the greenhouse, and the rest are mounted on hinges, like doors.

The greenhouses that we have just considered are summer ones. They grow various vegetables, fruits, flowers during the warm months, so that there is solar warmth and light. There are also winter greenhouses, they have a more complex structure, but they also have more functions.

Gable winter greenhouse with greenhouse frames

In this design, a gable winter greenhouse uses polyethylene or glass as side walls.

Approximately at a height of 40 cm, a foundation is installed in a section of 40 by 40. Next, there is bricklaying. Bars are placed on the brick, in which holes for the frames have already been made. The bars are pre-treated with resin.

Bars with a diameter of 10 cm will serve as rafters. They connect the ridge beam and the wall beam.

Then you can already deal with the interior decoration of the greenhouse. For example, you can put shelving. In order for the air to circulate well, leave a small hole between the rack and the wall. Lath board sheathe areas between the frames.

Shed winter greenhouse made of greenhouse frames

In order for the corridor inside the greenhouse to be about 80 cm, you need to make a pit in the following dimensions:

• depth 85 centimeters;
• length 11 meters;
• width 3.5 meters.

In the event that the frame is wooden, then the lower part of the beam must be treated with an antiseptic. Installing such a greenhouse is no different from a gable one. In order for the stove chimney to be used as efficiently as possible, 10 frames are installed.

• The greenhouse must be ventilated.
• The entrance must be on the east or west side.
• Roofing felt, boards are taken as material for the ceiling.
• The entrance to the greenhouse should be additionally fenced.
• Upon completion of construction, metal materials must be coated with paint.

Newcomers to greenhouse building can first try making a shed greenhouse or greenhouse. The main difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is that the plants are ventilated by opening part of the greenhouse. The greenhouse is easier to use, it can be dismantled at any time, moved to another place. It should only be borne in mind that low plants can be planted in a greenhouse. Most gardeners use a greenhouse to grow seedlings. Simply put, a greenhouse is a miniature greenhouse.

Single-pitched excavated film greenhouse

Let's start with the dimensions of the pit. The width is about one and a half meters, the depth is up to half a meter, the bottom is about half a meter. Logs are stacked along the northern and southern walls. In order for the frames not to slip, a groove is made on the south side or bars are additionally nailed. Frames with a film with an area of ​​​​1 m by 1.5 m are placed along the width of the greenhouse. And depending on how many frames there will be, this will be the length of the greenhouse. Welding can be used to connect frames.

Gable film greenhouse

First, a box is made. Dimensions:

• Height - 20 cm.
• Width - 1.6 meters.

Rafters are nailed to the sides every 3-5 cm. On top, everything is connected by a bar, which also forms a ridge. The height will be about 75 cm. Every gardener can make such a miniature greenhouse. It is very fast and does not require large investments.

Rules for the placement of greenhouses and greenhouses

The place for installing a greenhouse or greenhouse must be chosen correctly. There should be a lot of sunlight and no wind from the north side. The best option would be a small area on the southern part of your site.

Be sure to pay attention to the condition of your soil. If the soil contains a lot of clay or a lot of moisture in it, then such land cannot be used for a greenhouse or greenhouse. The best option would be soils that are processed in advance from pests and diseases.

Let's look at how to make a winter greenhouse with your own hands? Almost every site has a greenhouse or greenhouse. These designs can be purchased ready-made. In our article, we will look at how you can make a greenhouse yourself, what materials you may need and, in general, types of structures.

Greenhouse types

One of the main advantages of homemade greenhouses is that you are your own designer and you can think over and choose the design you need.

But before you start building, you need to carefully consider a number of details.

1. Select material.
2. Consider an irrigation system.
3. Is a foundation needed?
4. Ventilation system.
5. Dimensions.
6. Heating system.
7. Frame type.
8. Interior decoration.
9. Working space.

Addition. Structures, depending on the features, can be wall-mounted or stationary.

Characteristics of different types of structures

Before you build a greenhouse with your own hands, a mandatory step is to choose a construction model. If a greenhouse or greenhouse is adjacent to the house, then they will be economical in terms of space and heating costs.

Most of them use solar heat for heating.

There are greenhouses-polygons. They are distinguished by their uniqueness and complexity in manufacturing. Accordingly, the prices for such structures are higher. But you will have a beautifully decorated garden plot.

Structural dimensions

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to understand what size it will be. In this case, it will be necessary to take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, and the size of the proposed place for the greenhouse.

Consider what you need to consider when choosing a size:

• If you plan to grow only seedlings, then you can use the smallest size.
• If the plant will be completely grown in a greenhouse, then a more voluminous design is needed.
• When choosing a size, you need to consider that the larger the area, the higher the cost of heating.
• The height of the structure directly depends on the height of the owner of this greenhouse and on the interior finish (shelves).

Building a winter greenhouse: foundation

If the greenhouse or greenhouse is small in size, then the foundation is optional. However, many professionals in this field recommend its use in construction. Since the foundation protects the greenhouse from groundwater and dampness.

Types of bearing base for greenhouse structures:

• Bars made of wood.
• Foam blocks.
• Brick.
• Concrete.

In most cases, homemade greenhouses are made from a wooden frame.

Greenhouse materials

An important quality of a tree is its environmental friendliness and thermal insulation, which is very important for seedlings. A negative feature of using wood is its tendency to rot. Therefore, now they prefer to use galvanized steel as a frame.

Any beginner in this business will be able to independently assemble a metal frame. Just keep in mind that thermal insulation can be worsened.

We are building a winter greenhouse: materials for construction

Before you start building a greenhouse, you must select the material. When choosing it, you need to focus on such qualities as strength, light transmission, and good thermal insulation.

Materials such as wood, glass, polycarbonate, metal arcs, polyethylene pipes have all of the above properties.

Consider the quality of materials:

Glass is environmentally friendly and translucent. Cons - it breaks easily and weighs a lot. And also for the price - this is not the most economical option. Glazing will take a lot of time.

Polycarbonate, like glass, is environmentally friendly. It retains heat well and is resistant to mechanical damage. This is a very important characteristic, since the structure will not collapse under the influence of hail and stones. Its strength compared to glass exceeds 100 times. It is of two types: honeycombs and sheets. They differ from each other in structure and manufacturing process.

Cellular polycarbonate has greater light transmission, as its material and structure scatter light across the glass.

Sheet in its structure and characteristics is similar to glass.

Winter buildings are more complex in themselves, since during their construction it is necessary to think over heating and heat wiring systems. Many experienced gardeners recommend, or rather, believe that a biofuel polycarbonate greenhouse is the most optimal for winter time. When building a wall-mounted greenhouse, you can consider the option of connecting the whole house to the heating system. It will also be beneficial from an economic point of view.

What is biofuel?

• Household garbage.
• Compost.
• You can use manure.
• Horse dung is the most valuable fuel.

Advice. Mix horse manure with household residues - garbage and evenly distributed over the peat bedding.

The main feature of this greenhouse is a huge savings on maintaining the temperature - utilities. Plants can be grown all year round, and in the most severe and frosty winter. Excellent level of light penetration, which is not always the case in conventional greenhouses.

The main features of this greenhouse:

The main advantage is that, starting from a depth of 2 meters, the soil maintains the same temperature all the time: in winter, and in summer, and in frosts, and in rains.

Note. There are small changes depending on the level of groundwater, the closer they are to the surface, the more noticeable temperature fluctuations.

A good example is a well. In the well, both in summer and winter, the temperature is constant, above zero.

Approximately at a depth of 1 meter, temperature drops are noticeable: +5 in winter, and up to +10 in summer.

The base of the greenhouse can be heated to such temperatures using a warm floor. And to preserve the humidity of the air and soil, it is necessary to use drip irrigation.

Note. A thermos greenhouse can be built in just one season, without using any special equipment and at no great cost.

Digging a pit. Land works for the greenhouse

Since the greenhouse goes into the ground, its main part, you need to dig a hole, at least two meters. Only then the soil will not freeze, but will give off its heat.

The length of the underground part can be as long as you like, and the width is limited - only 5 meters.

Note. You can make the width and more, but then the natural heating and reflective properties will be worse.

The shape can be any, the main thing is to orient it to the west-east side. One side will be thoroughly insulated with foam or glass wool, and the other should be well lit by the sun.

A foundation will be poured along the edge or blocks of concrete will be laid out, so the edge must be well aligned.

wall construction

When the foundation is completed, you can begin to lay out the walls. On the concrete base there will be a metal frame on which the thermal blocks will be attached.

• The best roof material is polycarbonate.
• Installation takes place on a metal structure with a crate.
• It is necessary to thoroughly strengthen the attachment points.

How best to make thermal insulation and heating:

A special film is attached to the inside of the wall, it perfectly holds heat.

Advice. In regions with very cold climates, a foil-coated film with a double base layer can be used to retain heat, relatively warm regions.

The main function of reflective insulation is to maintain positive temperature and, as a result, humidity and carbon dioxide levels. That is, everything that is important for the normal growth of any plants.

Even inside the greenhouse, it is necessary to provide "heat accumulators".
Note. "Heat accumulator" - it can be any container with water, for example, bottles, they heat up well and quickly and gradually cool down over time, maintaining the temperature.

The heating of the base will be carried out using a warm floor. It is very important when using it to protect the wires from damage by garden tools and moisture. To protect against both moments, you can lay it in concrete, an easier way is to close it with a net - but this is only from garden tools.

Floor heating in a greenhouse is often done under tiles, and plants are planted in pots, tubs, lawns.

Note. For plants, the main thing is to maintain the optimal temperature of 25-35 degrees Celsius, and the level of humidity.

How to build a roof in a greenhouse with your own hands

When the walls are completely ready, you need to prepare the roof for the greenhouse. The best option for a construction of 12 meters is polycarbonate.

It is necessary to provide for the construction of the roof:

• Preservation of heat inside the greenhouse is achieved through the use of a double coating of polycarbonate (cellular).
• To connect 2 sheets of polycarbonate, each 4 mm thick, a profile pipe gasket is taken.
• The snow itself will not melt on such a double cover, so you need to use a thermal circuit, it will turn on and off with a timer.
• The use of double coating reduces heat loss during heating, but the light transmission is reduced by approximately 10%.
• We prepare the rafters in advance - we impregnate them with protective agents.
• The connection takes place in 1/2 of the tree, and the jumper is attached so that the length at the bottom point is up to 5 cm.
• The rafters prepared in advance will be a support, the lintels are removed, and a ridge beam is placed under them.
• The extreme rafters are nailed to the ridge beam using ordinary 20 cm nails.

As soon as the roof is assembled, it can be painted, after the paint has completely dried, polycarbonate is attached. For fastening, you need to take wood screws. Therefore, an iron corner for the roof is attached along the timber, and a special gasket made of heat-insulating material is also used.

The joints of polycarbonate and roof parts must be well glued with adhesive tape - adhesive tape. After all the preparatory work, you can mount the polycarbonate roof in place and fix it to the walls. Then you can move on to the arrangement of the internal space.

Our main goal is to build a greenhouse for the winter period with a small financial and labor cost and make heating in it. In this article, we will look at the most economical ways to maintain heat and heat, and the choice of materials that best minimize losses.

The design should be solid, designed for long-term use, if possible inexpensive, economical in terms of heating.

How can savings be achieved

Let's divide the question into two parts. We need:

• To build a structure that will absorb heat as much as possible on sunny days and give a minimum due to radiation and concept.
• Choose the most inexpensive way to heat in winter (and not only) - considering how it will be done and how much the operation will cost.

Construction

First, we sweep away greenhouses using film or made of wooden frames, with glass, in one or two layers. Why?

In the first variant, you can forget about the preservation of heat in principle. Losses due to convection are very high; and this material is too easy to accidentally damage. In winter, all these facts will definitely lead to the death of the crop. Such a greenhouse is inexpensive in terms of financial costs. But its thermal insulation properties are practically equal to zero.

In the second option, it will also be a practically insoluble issue - heat leakage through holes between the glass and the frame. Wood can dry out or change shape with changes in humidity. Also, due to the effects of snow and rain, the frames need to be covered with protective compounds every year, for example, painted.

What remains?

Can choose

• Metal-plastic greenhouses with several layers of glazing.
• Greenhouses on metal structures with polycarbonate.
• Metal-plastic.

In this case, there are many ready-made structures and all that remains for us is to choose it and pay, material and installation.

Basic principles to consider when designing

If we consider by the amount of solar energy that can be obtained, then the best option would be a shed roof, directed to the south. In this case, the sun will almost constantly shine on it almost at a right angle.

The north wall is being built opaque. It must also be insulated from the inside with foil insulation - foil inside. With such a construction, heat and light entering the greenhouse will be reflected from the foil and fall at right angles onto the beds. Since from the course of physics we know that the angle of incidence is equal to the angle of reflection.

Attention: you can not make a roof with a slope of less than thirty degrees. In winter, snow can accumulate, and this is undesirable for obvious reasons.

What do we get? The advantages of this solution are durability, wear resistance and good thermal insulation. The main disadvantage is the amount that will have to be spent on the purchase of such a greenhouse. The price of 1 square meter starts from 2500 rubles, if a large area is planned, then the result will be a substantial amount.

Polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate gained popularity very quickly after its appearance, due to the combination of its useful properties. Even when used in one layer, good thermal insulation is provided due to the cavities inside. Air is one of the best heat insulators.

Polycarbonate is almost 15 times lighter than glass, which practically eliminates the issue of structural strength.

This material is easy to bend and give the desired shape. Polycarbonate can be used together with an arch-shaped frame without any difficulties or problems. By the way, this design removes the issue with snow, the arch does not hold snow and it does not accumulate. Simple fastening, with self-tapping screws to a metal structure, and ease of processing.

The simplest recommendations are possible due to the characteristics of polycarbonate and the type of metal structure. The most durable frames are obtained from profile pipes. The arch is formed using a pipe bender, the structure is assembled by welding. The cross section of the pipe for the arch is -20 * 40 mm, the corner posts are made of pipes with a diameter of at least 40 * 40 mm.

Be sure to need ventilation windows, they will help the plants survive sunny days. Greenhouse with the use of prof. pipes, with a shed roof - simply assembled with bolts. The slopes at the corner posts are needed only during the assembly of the structure; in the future, polycarbonate will give rigidity.

Even cheaper and easier to manufacture is a galvanized profile, which is used when working with drywall, but it is not so resistant to lateral loads (during wind). When using it, you need to make a roof slope of 45 degrees, even minimal accumulations of snow are undesirable.

From the end, open-cell polycarbonate sheets must be drowned out with special strips or sealant. So, we will reduce heat loss due to convective currents inside the cells.

Heating

How to start heating inside the greenhouse yourself? Consider the most affordable solutions for small greenhouses. We will consider only air heating, because the use of radiators, their installation, piping, all this will not be cheap. And there is a high probability to freeze this system in winter.

Gas

Heating using the main gas pipeline, how to do it right? A simple solution is a convector, how many you need will depend on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe greenhouse. The thermostats that are used in the design of this device allow you to get the result without adjusting the burners and other issues.

The products of combustion will go out into the open air through the pipe, and air will also flow through it to maintain combustion.

If the size of the greenhouse is large, you can install a gas boiler. The heat exchanger can be blown with a fan, if necessary, warm air is diluted with aluminum sleeves. Thermal insulation, as when using a boiler for heating a house, is not needed, we have one room.

With the onset of cold weather, work in the garden and in the garden come to an end. And summer residents with regret have to leave their plots. Despite the fact that growing fruits and vegetables only becomes interesting towards the end of the season. But if you build a greenhouse with heating in your summer cottage, you can grow anything you like even in severe frosts in winter.

Construction type

First you need to choose the type of greenhouse, and only then proceed to the calculations and construction. Choice options depend on the purpose of the site and its features, on the location. Avid gardeners recommend designs using polycarbonate as a material. This is the easiest and most popular option. Another good option is a thermos greenhouse. It is erected in late spring or summer, because you need to have time to prepare the soil for planting. Polycarbonate structures can be made at any time of the year. This material is very popular because it has a number of useful qualities in terms of greenhouses.

With a small thickness, polycarbonate in winter creates the necessary thermal insulation. It has a honeycomb structure, and the honeycombs are filled with air, which has better thermal insulation properties.

The weight of polycarbonate is 15 times less than glass, so a reinforced frame is not needed. It is very easy to make an arched structure from this material, it bends easily.

Paperwork

If a greenhouse for the winter period is on your own site and you do not want to create a large-scale production, and, accordingly, use the labor of hired workers and sell the products of legal entities. persons, there is no need to draw up documents. For sale on the market, you only need a certificate that you grow them on your own plot.

The owner of a large greenhouse farm using hired labor, the harvest of which is sold through shops and cafes, restaurants, needs to register a legal entity. You can also register as an individual entrepreneur or a private agricultural enterprise. This will achieve tax benefits, although all this is difficult.

Where to build?

The greenhouse must be placed so that most of the sun's rays come to it. It is necessary to ensure that the shadow from the house, buildings and trees does not fall on it. The sides of the greenhouse should be oriented to the north and south. Consider also that the wind significantly increases the heat loss of the structure.

By locating the greenhouse in the wrong place, you will get the exact opposite effect of what you expected - in the form of high heating bills and poor growth of vegetables and fruits that you grow in it. When building a winter greenhouse with your own hands: coating materials, types of heating, location on the site and type of structure, you need to choose based on what kind of plant culture you will grow. An important fact is the financial possibilities that must be taken into account.

Building features

Many amateur gardeners, when faced with this issue for the first time, think what are the differences between an ordinary greenhouse and a winter greenhouse. And the differences between them are significant.

Before proceeding with the construction of a winter greenhouse, you need to carefully read all the important points and its features. Temporary structures are assembled from separate frames. Since the weight of this structure is small, it does not need a foundation. Greenhouses using polycarbonate as a coating can be mounted on ordinary brick posts.

The winter greenhouse is a solid building. It has electricity and heating. Rigid and heavy frame allows you not to worry about the loads arising from wind and snow. But for it it is necessary to make a solid foundation.

An ordinary greenhouse can be small. It all depends on how many and what crops you will breed in it. Growing vegetables in winter, in most cases, occurs for further sale, therefore, the requirements for the area of ​​​​the greenhouse are completely different, they start from tens of square meters.

The material for covering this structure can be absolutely any. But the best, affordable and reliable will be polycarbonate.

Before proceeding with the construction of a winter greenhouse, it is necessary to provide options for severe frosts and, as a result, the need for additional thermal insulation.

The location of the greenhouse must be chosen very carefully, because this is a capital building for more than one year. It is good if it is a flat area, well lit and without buildings nearby. You also need to take into account the humidity of the land on which the building will be, it should be within the normal range.

The foundation for the greenhouse can be made using a shallowly recessed reinforced concrete tape. Since the foundation must be solid, not for one year, when pouring it, everything must be done in accordance with the requirements.

When the base is ready, you can assemble the frame of the structure on it. Factory-made structures are usually supplied with drawings and photographs that will greatly help during installation. Polycarbonate sheets are attached to the frame with rubber washers. For tightness, their edges can be sealed with tape. To ensure the flow of fresh air into the greenhouses, several windows are made. If you have a desire to grow vegetables, but you don’t know how to build a winter greenhouse on your own, you need to contact specialists or buy a factory-made structure.

Heating type

The type of heating used must be selected based on the useful area of ​​​​the greenhouse. Small spaces can be provided with heat using a stove. If the areas are large, then you need to choose from:

• Water heating.
• Electric heating.
• Biofuels.

To use water heating, you will need pipes, a tank and, most importantly, a boiler. Pipes can be buried in the ground or placed directly under the racks.

Electric heating can be air or underfloor heating. Infrared heating is also very often used. The "warm floor" system is similar in design to a water system. A system consisting of heating cables is mounted in a small recess. And then it is covered with layers of sand and fertilized soil. Air heating can be arranged using fan heaters. Infrared heating is provided by infrared heaters located on the ceiling.

Biofuel is the most inexpensive way of heating.

Biofuels can be: any cattle or horse manure, warming wood and bark, hay or straw.

Biofuel is located under a layer of fertile soil. For proper heating of this type of heating, it is necessary that there is a constant flow of air and the necessary level of moisture in the air is maintained.

Which type of heating to use in your greenhouse is up to you. Each of the options needs to be considered from a financial point of view. You now know how a winter greenhouse is being built for growing plants. You need to figure out how to properly place everything in it - the layout of the internal space.

How to arrange the beds?

If you will grow plants of the same species in the greenhouse, then you can arrange the beds in parallel. Consider different cultures may not get along next to each other. For their joint breeding, it is necessary to apply the division into separate zones. For example, growing tomatoes and cucumbers next to each other will not work, because they need different watering methods - tomatoes need to be watered right under the root, and a drip irrigation system is suitable for cucumbers.

Finance, profit, payback periods

Correctly calculating the income from a winter greenhouse is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. The calculated profit and profitability of this entire enterprise is highly dependent on the distance, the city, the sales markets and the resulting crop. A more or less realistic return on investment is two or three years.

Sales channels

Fruits, vegetables and herbs are products that are in constant demand in the warm season, and especially in winter. Growing food in winter has the best profitability, because the prices for fresh herbs, tomatoes and cucumbers are very high.

Sales market

Grocery chains and small shops, and even supermarkets. They sell a very large volume of vegetables every day, so entering into supply contracts with them is very beneficial for you as a farmer. But it will be necessary to register a legal entity, and these are costs that need to be taken into account. Although if the crop that turns out to be grown is large, you can think about this sales market. The market, all novice gardeners sell herbs and vegetables here. Rent a kiosk or tent or place and you can start trading your crops.

Selling greens and vegetables directly. You can place ads on highly specialized sites, forums, bulletin boards in the global network. And there will be buyers very soon.

One of the lightest and easiest to install and assemble is a greenhouse using a wooden frame, which is covered with plastic film, a special greenhouse. The main advantage of this structure is the availability of materials, speed and ease of installation. Cons fragility of the coating, which can be easily damaged.

Another design came to us from Soviet greenhouses. Glass is used as the covering material. Its plus is the possibility of operation all year round, if heating is supplied and double frames are made for the winter period. The light transmission is perfect compared to any other material. Cons - this is a complex building, and the fragility of glass as a material.

The type of greenhouse that you should pay attention to is the buildings with cellular polycarbonate coating that are gaining popularity. The advantages include long service life, low weight, large temperature range, excellent stiffness and strength parameters. Of the minuses, in comparison with glass, the light transmission is about 90 percent.

For the installation of a polycarbonate greenhouse, special attention must be paid to the foundation. How to make a foundation? It is necessary to dig a small ditch, the approximate depth of which is from 10 to 30 cm, and the length and width are calculated based on the required area. The base must be protected from moisture - put waterproofing, it can be roofing material. If there is a strip foundation, then it is necessary to put the formwork, from any materials remaining in the garden area. The fittings can be replaced with any other metal, they will do, and the remnants of old pipes and pieces of steel wire.

Since the length of the brick is 25 cm, the width of the brick foundation will be the same.

The height of the foundation will be about 20 cm above ground level. The height of the foundation will need to be increased if you use high beds. Recommends an increase of up to 50 cm. Thus, a small wall will be obtained. It will be installed in it.

We have dealt with the foundation. Now you need to make a choice between the finished material or draft.

What is draft material? These are various types of rolled metal for the frame, polycarbonate, gaskets, etc. A greenhouse made of such materials can only be of a certain shape, as they narrow the list of shape selection. At first glance, it will look like a small house with a transparent roof and walls. This is due to the fact that in houses without certain skills and the necessary equipment, it is difficult to make arcs from a power frame.

In a greenhouse made of this type of material, there is a plus - it is the economy of construction. There is no need to draw a project, you do not need to buy material and tools for installation, you can also install the greenhouse yourself without hiring contractors. For construction, you will need tools: a drill, a hammer, screwdrivers and a hacksaw for working with metal.

On a sheet, you make a drawing with the dimensions of your building in order to have an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe general appearance of the greenhouse. It is not necessary to comply with GOST standards, your drawing is enough for you. The most important thing is that you yourself understand what and in what sizes to do.

Recommendations for installing this type of greenhouse is impractical, since each gardener has different types of plot. And everyone will adapt to their own layout, and take into account all the moments and features of their site when designing a greenhouse. It also matters in the manufacture of the material from which you decide to build a greenhouse.

Positive characteristics of this type of greenhouse:

1. Saving your time. Since the manufacturer himself calculated everything and did the design work.
2. The kit contains all materials for installation. There is no need to search for materials.
3. The ready-made kit already has a scheme for collecting a greenhouse. Having carefully studied it, you can easily assemble it yourself.
4. All elements have a specific size, as they were manufactured at the factory.

The downside is that they are the same. Arches in the form of a tunnel (arched type) are now on the market. The advantage of this design is that, due to its arched shape, it has a large light reflection. And also on such a surface water from rain will not accumulate. The downside is that it is less durable and rigid.

Assembly shouldn't be difficult. We take out the diagram, look at the drawing and clearly, following the instructions, assemble the structure, almost like assembling a constructor.

The most difficult thing when collecting a greenhouse is the installation of polycarbonate. The most important thing is to follow the instructions exactly. The only recommendation is that if one person will collect greenhouses, then it is necessary to prepare props in advance.

Since it is quite soft, care must be taken when working with it. And also in the assembly process, you will need to cut and drill the material. The main thing here is to prepare in advance by marking with a construction marker.

When cutting material, we recommend using a clerical knife that is approximately 3 knife segments long so that the knife does not go to the side.
Since polycarbonate is a finished structure, it has stiffening ribs inside. Therefore, cutting can be difficult. The main thing here is experience. You can first take a small piece of polycarbonate and work with it, so to speak, to feel the material. And if you have a jigsaw, then, of course, use it.

Another important point in the assembly. The kit includes a steam pass tape. Be sure to use it. It will protect your greenhouse from excess moisture and dirt.

So, we have considered several types of greenhouses. Each of them has its own special and distinctive characteristics. And when building a greenhouse with your own hands, the best projects for yourself will be exactly those that will allow you to focus on your goals, objectives and opportunities. After all, it doesn’t matter what kind you have, the most important thing is that it is made with your own hands and will delight you and your loved ones with a wonderful harvest.

In the country house and in the garden, it is not possible to do without a greenhouse and a greenhouse in all regions: in the north, summer is too cool and short, so you have to lengthen it. Yes, and in more southern regions, then grow seedlings, then get early / late vegetables-berries. That is why these facilities are popular: the costs are not very high, but there are many benefits. Moreover, do-it-yourself greenhouses and greenhouses can be built of any design, from any material, for any task.

Immediately make a reservation, what is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse. The greenhouse is serviced from the outside. It is small and cannot be entered. A greenhouse is already a more solid structure in which you can stand to your full height and work. The plants in it are served from the inside. Here, in fact, is the whole difference.

Despite the obvious difference in the dimensions of the structure, the same ones are used. There are several basic ones, as well as many combinations and modifications.

The main design differences are in the shape of the roof. There are three of them:

• arched;
• lean-to;
• gable.

What is the frame for greenhouses and greenhouses made of?

The choice of materials is wide, and they are often combined. So, the frame of a greenhouse or greenhouse is made from:

Probably everyone knows about the advantages and disadvantages of metal and wood. But what are good and bad plastics, probably a few. Plastics are good because they bend well, their outer surface is initially smooth and does not require processing, it does not tear the covering material. Plastic pipes are round, there are square ones, their wall is quite thick and strong, it holds self-tapping screws. Their main advantage: they are chemically neutral, do not bloom, do not rust, do not rot. Another property is their lightness. Regarding the construction of greenhouses, this is both an advantage and a disadvantage. On the one hand, the design is light, it is easy to assemble and disassemble. But in strong winds, lightness is already a disadvantage. It is neutralized with a good base, to which the frame is securely attached.

What to cover

The main covering material for greenhouses and greenhouses is a film. It is used on both small and large structures. Glass used to be used for year-round use, but its high price and fragility led to the fact that it is used very rarely - it turns out to be an expensive shelter. A large weight of glazing requires a solid frame.

There are two new items. A more familiar polycarbonate, which is used for both canopies, and a relatively new one is spunbond non-woven covering material.

Now about all the details.

Film for greenhouses and greenhouses

It is produced from different polymers, has different thicknesses. The most common are polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride. There are also reinforced ones.

Polyethylene films are the most inexpensive, but they are also the most short-lived. Even with the most careful attitude, they do not serve for more than a year: they become brittle under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, and they are finished off by cold. However, more often buy them: cheap.

Available in sleeve form. Cutting it on one side, we get a double width. It is not worth using an uncut film: the service life will remain the same, and the consumption will be exactly twice as much. There is only one feature: the film breaks quickly along the fold. It is difficult and almost useless to seal it later: adhesive tape sticks very poorly to a dusty surface. Therefore, this fold is glued with adhesive tape before use. It turns out reliably.

Thickness and types

The optimal thickness of the polyethylene film for country greenhouses and greenhouses is 150 microns. To take a thicker one - anyway, its service life is one season, and the characteristics and 150 are enough.

More durable reinforced film. Manufacturers give a 3-year warranty on it. It is easy to distinguish by its appearance: it is in a cage. Fibers of other polymers or the same polyethylene, but processed in a different way, are woven into the polyethylene web. Thanks to stronger fibers, such a film greenhouse can withstand wind and snow loads well (to a certain extent). Reinforced film is available in different densities, for greenhouses and greenhouses in summer cottages and household plots, 120 g / m 2 to 200 g / m 2 is more suitable.

There are also polyvinyl chloride films. They can be used up to 7 years. But they are expensive. The material is also good because it transmits sunlight well (80-90%) and almost does not transmit infrared (5-10%), that is, it does not allow the greenhouse to cool overnight. If you need a warm greenhouse that maintains the temperature well at night, this is your choice.

There are also films that are called perennial. Most often it is polyethylene with various additives. Some other polymers are less common. Typically, multi-year films have some special properties:

• less destroyed by ultraviolet radiation - light stabilizing;
• less transmits thermal radiation - heat stabilizing;
• does not allow condensation drops to form on the film - hydrophilic;
• reflects thermal radiation, glows in the dark, absorbs ultraviolet - these properties depend on the type of additives, but are called light-transforming.

These properties can be combined in one film. So you can find a long-term hydrophilic heat-stabilizing film, etc. One more moment. Such films usually have some kind of tint: yellow, greenish, blue ...

When choosing a multi-year film, be sure to specify its service life. It can be from two seasons to 3 years. Note. If 2 seasons are written, this means that it needs to be removed for the winter. If 2 years, then this is a film for year-round use. Sellers often manipulate these concepts, saying that two seasons are two years.

Polycarbonate

This cellular material has many advantages: it is light, transmits light well, retains heat, bends, and is easy to install. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost. However, if the greenhouse is operated for more than one year, such investments will pay off: even without additional heating, the growing season is significantly increased.

But polycarbonate is different in structure and thickness. The most commonly used types in the construction of greenhouses are in the table.

For normal conditions (average snow load and wind), single-chamber sheets are used to cover greenhouses. For regions with a lot of snow, it makes sense to take reinforced ones.

The thickness of the sheets is optimal - 6 mm or 8 mm. You should not take less: sheets are too fragile and their characteristics are not very good (see table). Polycarbonate 4 mm thick can be placed on small ones. He can't handle heavy loads.

Polycarbonate still needs to be fixed correctly: the cells must be oriented from top to bottom, open edges must be sealed with special tape or adhesive tape, fastened with special thermal washers or bolts with a large metal washer, under which it is necessary to put a rubber or plastic lining.

Spunbond

This is no longer the same material. There are many brands: Agril, Lutrasil, Spanteks, Agrospan, AgroSUF, etc. It's just that Spunbond appeared first and now all similar materials are called that way, as well as "non-woven covering material" or "agrofibre". This is a non-woven polypropylene fiber that has unique characteristics: it allows air, light and moisture to pass through, while saving plants from overheating or freezing. Review of the practice on the use of this material in the video.

Agrofibre is characterized by density. The lowest is 17 kg / m 3, the largest is 60 kg / m 3. For seasonal greenhouses and greenhouses from spring to autumn, the optimal density is 30-40 kg / m 3, for winter, 60 kg / m 3 are already needed.

How to quickly build a greenhouse with arcs (with photo explanations)

As a rule, the first greenhouse in the country or in the garden is made from inexpensive materials: you need to try what it is and evaluate how profitable the idea is. Hence the requirements: a simple, pre-fabricated design from inexpensive, affordable materials. These requirements are fully met by frame greenhouses with arcs made of PVC pipes (HDPE can also be used).

materials

Here is a greenhouse, as in the photo above, can be done in a few hours. You will need the following material:

• Board for the base, size not less than 75 * 40 mm, the length depends on the dimensions of your greenhouse. A frame is knocked down from a bar, which lies along the perimeter of the greenhouse. If the greenhouse is 6 * 3 meters, then the timber needs 18 meters, if 8 * 3 m, then 24 meters, etc.
• Board with a section of 50 * 20 mm for the organization of the front door.
• PVC pipes with a wall thickness of at least 2 mm. The length depends on the dimensions of the greenhouse. If you are going to build a greenhouse, then at the top point its height should be at least 2.2 meters. Then you can easily work inside.
• Reinforcement with a diameter of 14-16 mm. It should be slightly smaller than the inner diameter of PVC pipes.
• Covering material - film or agrofibre. Others for this design will not work.
• Perforated metal tape.
• Wood screws.

Treat wood with rot and insect repellant before use. If there are pieces of bark somewhere, you need to get rid of them. That is where most of the larvae are. If there are any factory impregnations, you can use them. You have used engine oil - it will do. If it is not there, you can burn the wood with a blowtorch. This method is unreliable, but even such processing is better than none.

Tools for the job

To make a greenhouse for a summer residence with your own hands, you will need a tool:

• hammer, nails;
• saw on wood;
• grinder with a disk for metal;
• sledgehammer or heavy hammer (to hammer rebar);
• screwdriver

We build a greenhouse from polypropylene pipes (photo report)

First of all, the site is marked out, then the site is leveled. She is leveled. Next, the actual construction of the seasonal greenhouse begins.

Preparatory work

A rectangle is knocked down from a wide board, which outlines the border of the greenhouse. If you know how, the beam can be connected into a paw, if not, just knock it down with a hammer and long nails (at least 10 cm). Reinforce the uly with metal plates or corners. We check the base. To find out how evenly it turned out for you, measure the diagonals. If they are equal, great. No - straighten it out. After that, we fix the base - in the inner corners we drive in the reinforcement rods. They will hold the base in place.

The reinforcement is cut into pieces about 80 cm long. They are installed every 50 cm on both long sides of the greenhouse. 40 cm are hammered into the ground and the same remains to hang around. The rods of opposite sides must stand strictly one opposite the other, otherwise the greenhouse will be skewed.

We put on arcs

We put a cut piece of a polypropylene pipe on the reinforcement on one side, bend it and put it on the same bar from the opposite side. Got the first arc. We do the same with everyone else. We get arcs installed every 50 cm. This is a greenhouse frame made of polypropylene pipes.

Now the pipes need to be fixed. Otherwise, they will come off just as easily as we put them on.

We take a perforated metal tape, a screwdriver, wood screws. We cut off a piece of tape, attach it to the frame near the pipe on one side, then on the other. You can screw one more - two self-tapping screws closer to the pipe so that the arc is held securely. To make the fastening stronger, it is better to take corrugated reinforcement rather than smooth, you can also fix the PP pipe twice: almost at the ground and closer to the upper edge of the frame.

Now you need to connect all the arcs with longitudinal pipes. They will give rigidity to the structure. If the greenhouse is small, only one longitudinal rib is enough. But it is more convenient when they are also on the sidewalls.

A long piece of PVC pipe or a beam of small section is tied at the top in the middle of the arch. It is attached with a plastic clamp to each arch. It will give the structure additional rigidity.

Plastic clamps - universal fasteners

Making doors

A doorway is already made from the board in the middle of the first arch. Its height and width depends on how high your greenhouse turned out. But the width of the door should not be less than 80 cm: it will be uncomfortable to walk.

Now the matter is small: choose what, cover the greenhouse. PVC pipes will be able to carry film (any) or non-woven material (or both). After the material is fixed, we can consider the manufacture of the greenhouse with our own hands finished: you can plant seedlings. There is enough height to grow even high varieties of tomatoes or cucumbers and you can easily make supports for tying.

Greenhouse using the same technology

It is interesting that it is easy to build a greenhouse using the same technology. Only its dimensions will be smaller (the fittings may be thinner, its pieces are smaller), and the whole technology is similar.

Almost also built a greenhouse "Snowdrop". The only difference is that the covering material is stitched in it, drawstrings are made in it, into which PVC pipes are threaded. After they are installed in the necessary places of the agrofibre, they are stuck into the ground. Why is such a greenhouse convenient? The fact that the shelter can be moved along the arch, opening or closing plants as needed.

Improvements

Most of all questions arise at the organization of an input: the most problematic part turns out. Here are two options for solving it:

How to attach film to pipes

What are the advantages of PVC pipe arcs? They are smooth, the film and spunbond do not tear on them. But how to attach the film to them? You can’t drive a nail into them, you can screw in a self-tapping screw, but only into one lying on the ground. It “plays” in the frame and the screw does not screw into it. For fastening the film there are special plastic clamps-latches. They are put on top of the film, cover part of the pipe.

From a hose, a plastic pipe, other improvised materials

Such clamps can be made from improvised materials. For small greenhouses from arcs, a piece of old hose, cut lengthwise, is suitable. For greenhouses, its rigidity may not be enough: the windage is greater. Then the clamp can be made from a piece of the same plastic pipe. It is also cut lengthwise, but you will have to cut off some of the width: PVC, and HDPE are still quite rigid, and you can’t just unfold them. Which part of the pipe to cut out, determine empirically, then process the edges with emery: so that they do not tear the film.

Pipe clamps, which are used when installing pipelines in houses, do a good job of holding the film. You have to break off his leg, but otherwise he is very good.

People also use stationery binders of the right size. This device holds well, but due to the fact that it is metal, there is a possibility that the film will tear in strong winds. To prevent this from happening, you can put a piece of cloth.

And another way that you can attach the film to the arc of the greenhouse: take double-sided tape and stick it on one side of the pipe. Then, gradually removing the protective film, stick the film to it. This is an option for cheap plastic film: it will be impossible to remove it. Another point: you need to stick the film not to the very bottom: after all, you may need to ventilate the greenhouse.

For convenient ventilation, the film is cut off longer than required by 20-30 centimeters on each side (if the length of the arc, for example, is 2 meters, then the film will need at least 2.5). They take a bar, wrap it with a film and nail it. Now, if the film needs to be lifted, it is wound onto a bar, and it is fixed (or simply thrown onto the roof, tying a rope so that it can be pulled back). Only the bar should be well processed, without sharp edges. So it won't break the film.

Arcs for greenhouses from profiles

A greenhouse under a film can be not only made of a polymer pipe. You can also use galvanized profiles for outdoor use. They are light, due to the ribs have a sufficient degree of rigidity. A greenhouse with a galvanized profile can be covered with any material, except, perhaps, glass: it is too heavy.

To make an arc from the profile, its side parts are cut with a grinder every 20-30 cm, leaving the middle part intact. On the ground, an arc is outlined that needs to be formed (a semicircle can be drawn with a piece of rope and a pencil tied on one side if you are working on a concrete site or a sharp peg that scratches the turf or ground. The incised profile is placed on this drawing, folded in places of cuts. Then they take a screwdriver and self-tapping screws (fleas), fasten them in places where the side parts intersect, first from one side, then from the other side.

How it looks live, see the video.

Polycarbonate can already be attached to such arcs. But the structure is still not rigid enough to be walked on.

Video on how to make arcs for a greenhouse with wood polycarbonate

This method is available to experienced carpenters. But the result is excellent: not only reliable, but also beautiful. The fastening system was invented very interestingly: the polycarbonate is not fixed tightly, but moves along the guides, opening and closing the side faces. The design is more complex, but also more reliable.

Economical greenhouse with heating

How to make a year-round greenhouse, and spend a little on heating it? One of the gardeners came up with the idea to bury the greenhouse in the ground. One of the very rational options, see the following video.

Do-it-yourself greenhouses are made from different materials and different designs, but the priority is the arched structure. It is easier to build, and does not interfere with work, it allows you to ventilate if necessary.

The direct purpose of the greenhouse lies in protecting plants from adverse factors, of which there are a great many. Creating a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse, which is best suited for cultivated crops, increasing their yield by several times. And greens and fresh vegetables can be obtained much earlier compared to open ground. It is no secret for everyone that their price in the winter-spring period is an order of magnitude higher than seasonal ones. Therefore, growing crops in greenhouses is highly cost-effective.

Place for a greenhouse

If you are wondering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to take an interest in the general factors that influence the choice of a greenhouse. This step should be taken carefully, because you will have to buy a greenhouse for more than one year. By the way, the average useful life of such a design is close to 10 years.

To choose a place to build a greenhouse, you need to remember that the main purpose lies in the successful growth of seeds and comfortable conditions for fruit ripening. Therefore, it is better to allocate a flat place on the site that is well protected from the wind and where sunlight enters in sufficient quantities. Therefore, it is worth installing a greenhouse in a place where there are no objects that create a large shadow.

It is not recommended to place the greenhouse near fences and trees. However, sometimes placing a tree near a greenhouse is not a disadvantage, because in summer it protects the structure from overheating, and in winter frosts it allows the sun to drop its leaves, penetrate through the branches and heat the greenhouse. You just need to make sure that it does not grow too much. But near a coniferous tree, which retains cover all year round, a greenhouse cannot be placed.

Consider also the presence of buildings near the greenhouse. It may turn out that the sun will be located above the roof in summer, and in winter, on the contrary, it will not be able to rise so high, and the building will completely shade the greenhouse all year round. It should be remembered that the greenhouse requires the supply of electricity, water and gas. Therefore, you should not place the greenhouse far from energy sources.

If you are aiming to build a winter greenhouse and grow plants in the cold season, then remember that the snow cover that is located around the greenhouse can directly reflect the sun's rays onto it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the snow on the greenhouse cover does not interfere with the penetration of lighting.

Greenhouses, greenhouses and greenhouses should be installed on a flat surface. Installation on sloping soil provokes the destruction of the frame, because the snow load in winter is distributed unevenly and is very significant for mid-latitudes.

Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

When building a greenhouse, it is recommended to determine the dimensions in advance. To do this, you need to pay attention to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site where the greenhouse will be located, and decide how much you will grow plants and what grows next to the greenhouse.

The most popular forms are arched and gable greenhouses. To correctly determine the appropriate form of a greenhouse for your land, you need to pay attention to two points:

• Before making a purchase, try to determine what you will be growing. For low crops (undersized tomatoes, eggplant and peppers), you should choose an arched greenhouse. Tall crops (tall tomatoes, flowers and cucumbers) are better suited gable.
• You should not forget about your own preferences, because the greenhouse should please you with its appearance.

The base of the greenhouse can be made in the form of a circle, trapezoid or rectangle, as well as their various variations. The most successful is the round greenhouse-tent, which uses sunlight efficiently. The frame material is PVC, wood or metal.

Coating materials

If you are interested in what you can make a greenhouse from, then remember that each material for covering the greenhouse has its own advantages and disadvantages. Greenhouse film attracts with its easy replacement, low price, low design requirements, the possibility of using a frame made of wood or metal. The shape of the greenhouse in this case can be traditional arched or arched with straight walls.

A film that is well stretched over an arched structure can be safely left for the winter. The film quietly serves up to 4 years. The disadvantages include instability to mechanical damage and low thermal insulation.

But greenhouses covered with expensive short-lived film, as well as fragile glass structures, are a thing of the past. Such structures were replaced by polycarbonate material, which is more attractive in terms of its characteristics - good light transmission and thermal conductivity, strength and price. Therefore, cellular polycarbonate has become by far the most popular material for covering greenhouses.

The main advantage of polycarbonate is its lightness and the use of such a greenhouse for up to 10 years. The possibility of bending the sheet under the greenhouse arch provides a significant increase in the load from snow. The frame is usually metal. The size of the greenhouse walls and the length of the arches depend on the size of the polycarbonate sheet.

If the covering material of the greenhouse is a double-glazed window or glass, then the frame design requires reinforcement with floor trusses and internal drains. The undoubted advantages of glass are its light transmission, durability of use and warmth. But the stringent requirements of the frame due to the severity and fragility of glass lead to an increase in the popularity of replacing glass with polycarbonate.

Frame materials

There are several frame options on the market at the moment. Galvanized profile: such a frame is protected from corrosion, but at the same time it has low strength indicators. It uses thin sheets of steel, which can easily be deformed.

The steel frame, which is coated with powder paint, is a fairly durable material, but it is not durable due to corrosion. The material is also characterized by high thermal conductivity, which has a bad effect on the yield in some cases.

A square profile made of galvanized steel is called the best option for developers who are interested in how to make a greenhouse. Such a profile shows high strength characteristics and is not subject to corrosion due to galvanization.

Greenhouse foundation

The foundation of the greenhouse, in addition to the standard purpose, additionally performs an important function, being an integral part of the pocket in which high ridges are placed. Given the fact that the foundation acts as an element of the overall structure of the greenhouse in its lower part, combining brick and concrete, it should not “walk” in the spring when the soil thaws, as this will otherwise lead to the formation of cracks and cause deformation of the arched structure.

Possible cracking of the glazing of the greenhouse. Almost every gardener faced this issue at the stage of building a garden house, so it is necessary to determine in advance the most acceptable options for dealing with certain deformations.

Laying the foundation for a greenhouse involves the need to calculate the depth of soil freezing. Under the foundation, it is desirable to dig a trench, which is usually filled with sand with gradual tamping. The filling height must be at least 20 centimeters below the ground.

Around such a groove, you need to put a formwork 20 centimeters high directly above the soil. Along the entire perimeter, metal reinforcement is laid in the formwork, and then it is poured with concrete. With the help of such simple manipulations, it will be possible to create a foundation for a greenhouse in the form of a strong reinforced concrete belt, and the susceptibility to the influence of earth movement is excluded.

Frame construction and coating

The strength of the greenhouse frame allows you to reliably protect the crop from rain and wind. The construction of the frame should begin with marking the site. First of all, you need to decide what will be the dimensions for the future greenhouse. The standard option is a compact structure for a summer cottage measuring 6 by 3 meters.

After that, you can begin to assemble the greenhouse frame itself. To do this, strengthen the support posts in the soil in pre-dug holes. Along the perimeter of the structure in the amount of 6 side bars with a length of 2.15 m with 3 central bars, which have a length of 3 meters. For bars, the cross section should be 10 centimeters.

After that, the bars must be deepened at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters, followed by careful fixation. Fastening of horizontal beams is carried out along the upper part of each support. The legs of the rafters must be fixed at a step of 0.5-0.6 meters. On the north side, after that, install a door frame measuring 0.7 by 1.8 meters with further hanging the door.

Then it is recommended to make a couple. From thin boards or logs, create a rectangular frame for the north and south wooden shields. The frames are deepened by approximately 40-50 centimeters, they are covered with biofuel, which is covered with a sufficient amount of straw and covered with a thick layer of soil. Please note that the northern lad of your greenhouse should be raised 10-15 centimeters above the southern lad, which is necessary for even distribution of sunlight.

At this stage, the film should be stretched on the frame of the greenhouse. It is better if a film of whole pieces is used for this purpose. From the end of the side of the greenhouse are completely closed with a film. It is necessary to fix the film using wooden slats - they are nailed directly to the supports themselves.

Creation of ventilation

In the construction of protected ground under the influence of solar heat, a greenhouse effect is created. In the greenhouse, due to the rapid rise, air stagnates, which is an ideal environment for the spread of diseases and the reproduction of pests.

Therefore, it is recommended to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse by creating a ventilation system that provides fresh air and maintains optimal air humidity. The mode of operation of the ventilation system must be coordinated with the operation of shading and heating devices.

To ventilate greenhouses, it is customary to use side and roof windows, as well as doors. The surface of devices that are intended for ventilation should reach 20% of the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building. Airing contributes to the hardening of fruit and vegetable crops, it is useful for seedlings that are grown for planting in open soil. Two weeks before planting seedlings, it is necessary to ventilate the greenhouse day and night. In the afternoon it is worth finishing the airing no later than 16 hours.

To keep the room warm, do not allow drafts and strong gusts of wind to penetrate inside. When air is heated, its density decreases and it rises. If you place the vents under the ridge, then warm air will come out through them, and cold air will come in to replace it through the doors, the gaps between the glasses and the cracks.

In small greenhouses, it is enough to build 1 window on each side of the roof. In general, for every 2 meters of the length of the greenhouse, there should be at least 2 vents. If you have built a large greenhouse where you plan to grow alpine plants, in this case you will have to equip a continuous row of windows on both sides of the roof.

To speed up cooling and ensure complete air exchange, it is necessary to arrange side windows in the frame, which will be located slightly above the ground surface or at the level of the racks. They can be made in the usual way or as blinds. The second option is best practiced if you plan to grow orchids and other tropical plants in the greenhouse. Side windows are not suitable for such plants, because strong air currents pass through them on windy days, which can harm the flowers.

Thus, you already know how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, choose a place for a greenhouse and its shape. Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, select the material for the coating and frame. Be sure to remember about ventilation and the process of air exchange in the greenhouse.