How to make the roof overlap correctly. The better to cover the roof of the house - how to choose a roofing material

Most developers believe that it is very difficult to cover the roof, but I will say this: if all the work is done according to technology and drawings, then there is nothing difficult. Of course, in addition to the actions themselves, you will have to know some of the nuances of the materials themselves, but in this I will now help you.

Roof

The roof section of the building is one of the most important parts of the entire building. A special role here is given to the type of roofing system and its frame, roofing and waterproofing used. Ventilation and protective materials go into a secondary plan, although it is through them that the operation of the entire roof system is set.

Any roof is essentially the face of the entire building. Looking at it, you can understand what kind of income the tenants have, whether they take care of their home or do not pay attention to it at all. Just a glance is enough to understand whether you will like the people you are visiting or will be somewhat repulsive. Of course, you should not take the roof as a reflection of a person, but as practice shows, this is often found.

Residential roofs will be slightly different from those created to cover temporary structures. It almost always includes the following layers:

• Vapor barrier material
• Lathing
• Thermal insulation
• Roof covering

This roof structure is suitable for a residential building. There is a heat-insulating product in the roofing cake, therefore, the heat directed to heating the room will not fly out through the roof and will be able to warm the residents for a long time. In general, the structure of the roofing cake depends on many factors and is selected based on the purpose of the building and some of the nuances.

Vapor barrier layer

Overlapping the roof of a house with your own hands allows you to independently select roofing products. Of course, this is a double-edged sword, since the use of low-quality products will seriously affect the service life, but at the same time, you can seriously save both time and finances.

The vapor barrier is a very important part of the roofing cake. It prevents steam from penetrating into it and thus leaves the insulation boards dry. This is a serious nuance, because if a small amount of moisture gets on them, heat loss will immediately increase several times. By the way, if something similar happened to you or your friends, then you probably know that drying thermal insulation products will not help much. You cannot return the initial characteristics of thermal insulation.

There are about two or three vapor barrier layers in a high-quality roofing cake, it all depends on the coverage and climatic conditions of the region. It is worth noting that most of the moisture comes from the underlying rooms, where human activity is at its highest. An example is food preparation. Here, a large amount of steam is released, which rises into the attic space.

As a rule, vapor control layers are laid on the rafter legs and on the crate. In the second case, it often happens that this role is given to the lining material, which not only insulates the space from moisture, but also levels the plane, making it more suitable for laying the coating.

To date, there are plenty of vapor barrier materials on the construction market, therefore, there may be some problems with the choice. If you want maximum efficiency, then membranes are for you. They have a significant advantage over films. Their body is perforated, so the steam will not linger in the attic for a long time and will be calmly removed by natural ventilation. It is worth noting that moisture will not have a way back, since the membrane only works in one direction.

Sheathing device

Most novice developers are well aware of how to lay the foundation and erect walls, but when they reach the roof they stop and ask the same question: "how to block the roof of a house with your own hands?" As already mentioned, it is quite easy to do this if you know the technological process. In cases where zero construction is underway, you first need to think over the basis for the roofing cake.

The lathing is created from sawn timber (timber or planks) and is laid over the rafter legs. In some cases, there is a counter-lattice in front of the crate. It raises the entire roof plane to a certain height and creates a ventilation gap so that gusts of wind can blow condensate out of the roof space. No matter how complex or simple the rafter system, the size of the counter-lattice is 2-5 centimeters.

As for the lathing itself, it can be metal or wooden. Metal has some advantages over wood, since it can have greater rigidity with a lower mass. In addition, such material is more durable and requires less maintenance. Among the shortcomings, it is worth highlighting the high cost, therefore, in private construction, metal crate is quite rare.

Lathing from lumber can be created in a discharged or continuous way. In the first case, a certain distance is set between its main elements, which is maintained from the eaves overhang to the ridge. By the way, it is these nodes that are equipped with more durable components, since they have a lot of pressure.

The solid crate has two layers: discharged and solid. Bars or boards are used to create the first layer. Elements are located at the maximum distance from each other, but so that the next layer has at least three anchor points. Top layer decking products are OSB boards or moisture resistant plywood. However, some developers create a solid base and exclusively from boards, but there is one caveat. If you take uncalibrated lumber, then a strongly curved plane may turn out, which will become unsuitable for any kind of coating.

It is much easier to create a discharged crate. The lengths and cross-sections of all elements are taken from the calculations. In addition, it is important to understand what kind of coating will be used in this case. For example, a slate sheet has a rigid body and feels comfortable even when supported by three points, and if you take ondulin, then with an identical crate, the euro slate will bend under its own weight.

Before thinking about how to cover the roof of the house, you need to take care of protecting the roof frame. Before laying sawn timber, they must be treated with protective solutions, namely: antiseptics and fire retardants. In addition, the moisture content of the wood at the time of installation should not exceed 20%, otherwise after installation it will begin to warp and damage the entire roofing skeleton.

Thermal insulation materials

Often, when answering the question: "how to properly cover the roof", many experts miss the heat-insulating layer, they talk about it superficially, which cannot be done.

The thermal insulation layer is a very important part of any residential building. Without it, heating the room will be enough for only a few hours, when a high-quality roofing cake with all layers is able to maintain a comfortable temperature for more than a day. If you have ever had a chance to heat a stove in the evening and wake up in the cold in the morning, then you know exactly what bad roof insulation is.

You already know that you need to try as best as possible to isolate this layer from any state of aggregation of water. But it is worth saying that some products do not need this at all, they are hydrophobic, therefore, moisture simply cannot cause them any harm. Such materials include expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) and foam glass... The second product stands out for its qualities from the rest, but it is not so often used due to its high cost. As for the foam, it is actively used on flat roofs.

In pitched roofing systems, a special air gap is created inside the roofing cake itself. It is achieved by laying small slats on top of thermal insulation boards, after which all this is covered with waterproofing. The air gap allows the wind to blow through the cake and remove condensation from it.

Roof covering

The roof slab is the last, and in fact the final, part of the main construction. At this stage, a lot of developers have their own opinion. Today the construction market has dozens of materials for roofing and almost all of them can be installed independently, the main thing is to follow a certain method.

• Any roof covering is laid from bottom to top. This allows you to work in the most comfortable position and adhere to the intended overlap.
• If the material has a wavy structure, then it is laid according to the wind rose, which is drawn according to the indications of the prevailing winds for a particular region. Having studied it, you can confidently say which side it is better to start with the installation of the coating.
• The work of laying sheet roofing products is akin to playing a construction set. Here, each piece is stacked one by one with some overlap and attached to a specific location. If the material is made of metal, then it is best to use self-tapping screws with a rubber lining as fasteners, and if the base includes modified bitumen, then nails are better suited.

At the end of the construction of the pitched roof, a ridge, wind and eaves strips are mounted.

Today, the cheapest material among the coatings is a kind of roofing material under the uniflex brand. Its manufacturer is the Russian company TechnoNIKOL. It has a large line of building materials that are produced according to all standards, so there is no doubt about the quality of the products.

Seeing the low price of roofing materials, most of the developers ask themselves the question, how to cover the roof of the house with a uniflex with their own hands? And if you are one of those people, then I will answer you in a multiple and understandable way. For this job, you will need a gas burner and at most one partner. This material is ideal for flat roofs as the heat from the fire cannot damage the concrete base. However, any roofing material can also be laid on a wooden base, the main thing is that the first layer is fixed mechanically, i.e. with nails or screws.

In addition to all of the above, a high-quality roof must have good ventilation traction, otherwise a large amount of condensation will accumulate in the attic space, which will destroy the structure from the inside. By the way, if she does not cope in a natural way, then you can arrange an artificial one. For this, aerators or deflectors are installed.

Any building material, including the roof, is not eternal and has a certain operational period, after which the owner of the building is faced with the need for a new roof overlap. The roofing material has a fairly long service life, and, probably, a significant number of decades have passed since the installation of the previous roof, during which the building materials market has significantly enriched.

In the article, we will analyze how to cover the roof of a private house with our own hands and how much it will cost.

In this article

Choice of roofing

First of all, you need to decide: how to block the roof of a private house? At the moment, there are many different types of roofing with different characteristics. Let's consider the main ones:

Remember that choosing the right roofing material is half the battle in roofing.

Determining the required amount of roofing material depends on the roof area, which is easy to calculate yourself. It is important to add 10-15% to the resulting number of square meters due to overlapping roofing and up to 25% if the roof has a complex shape and requires frequent cutting of the material.

Overlap preparation

In addition to the roofing material itself, you will also need a construction tool and preparation of the entire rafter system for laying a new coating. Associated costs can reach up to 50-100% of the required cost of roofing materials.

So, regardless of the chosen roof, you will need:

• Hammer, tools for cutting roofing material, drill and screwdriver for securing the roof;
• Fasteners if they are not included with the roofing material;
• Tape measure, level and pencil for measurements;
• Materials for creating a frame for the selected roof.

Before closing the roof, it is necessary to critically inspect the condition of the entire rafter system for rot, mold and mildew. If you decide to change the roofing due to constant leaks, then the listed troubles will find themselves in many places. It makes no sense to lay a new roof on the damaged truss system - it is a waste of time and money. You may have to replace partially or completely damaged wooden elements, insulation and insulation materials.

If the inspection showed that the rafter system is in order and you only need to update the topcoat of the roof, you still need to complete the sheathing for the selected material:

• A continuous sheathing system made of moisture-resistant plywood or calibrated beams is created under the shingles;
• For other types of roofing, it is required to fill the lathing from slats with a pitch of 35-50 cm, depending on the material and the angle of inclination of the roof.

Roofing procedure

The success of the planned roof renovation depends on the knowledge of how to properly cover the roof. Let us recall the basic procedure for overlapping the roof with our own hands:

• Do not forget about the weather conditions: it is good if the weather is calm, windless. Some materials (such as shingles or ondulin) require an additional special temperature regime. In no case should you block the roof in wind or rain - it is dangerous to health and life!
• First of all, the rafters are installed (or checked) - they must be made of dry wood without knots and cracks;
• Further, between the rafter legs, insulation is laid from the inside, and a layer of waterproofing material is placed on top. Roll materials are always laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm of all joints;
• The lathing is made according to the requirements of the selected roofing material. The general rule is compliance with one level and the creation of an even flooring for the future roof;
• The roofing is laid from the lower slope to the ridge with the obligatory determination of the level and evenness of each element. Special attention is required for such elements as valleys, adjoining the roof to pipes or ventilation shafts;
• The final event is the installation of the roof ridge. Its installation is carried out according to the rules determined for each roofing material.

Cost estimate

In conclusion, consider how much it costs to block the roof in a private house. As we found out earlier, the largest amount of funds will be required for the purchase of the roofing material itself. Knowing the roof area, it is easy to calculate how much it will cost to purchase, taking into account the stock for joints and other possible cases.

When planning costs, it is important to take into account the condition of the entire rafter system: if it requires repair or complete replacement, then the costs will increase at least 2-3 times. However, these are necessary and necessary expenses, since the operational life of the roof directly depends on the quality of the rafter system.

A possible point in the compiled map of expenses will be the attraction of hired forces, if you do not have to rely only on your own forces. The cost of the services of hired builders is quite high and therefore one of the main opportunities to save on roof overlap is to do all the work with your own hands.

Roof overlap is a laborious and quite costly process, which is often not limited to replacing the roofing. When planning this process, it is important to seriously assess the condition of the rafter system and calculate in advance all the costs of building a new roof.

Each of us has seen metal tiles more than once. Every year, more than one hundred square meters of this roofing material is installed on various roofs. In view of the widespread use of metal tiles, I would like to say a few words about the correct choice of material, its correct storage, as well as how to cover the roof with metal tiles and install all the additional elements that come with it.

Advantages of metal tiles

For the first time, this roofing material appeared on sale in Finland in the second half of the last century and since then has been successfully the leader among all roofing materials of this kind. Today, metal tiles are made of zinc-alumina steel, which has a protective polymer coating that protects the metal from corrosion and is painted in different colors.

In the manufacture of this material, several coatings are used, which differ in their properties, cost and thickness. Galvanized profiled sheets have a more complex internal structure than it seems initially: usually cold-rolled hot-dip galvanized sheet is used for the base, which has a thickness of 0.4-0.5 millimeters.

The metal tile has a list of key qualities that have determined its popularity: low weight, ease of installation, long useful life, increased wear resistance and reasonable price. The material does not burn, deform or melt. Sometimes consumers sin on increased noise during strong wind or rain, but this is observed with improper installation of the roof, sound insulation and drainage.

This roofing material has a stylish appearance, often imitating traditional ceramic tiles, but far surpassed the clay counterpart in terms of ergonomics. They use metal tiles for reconstruction of buildings or new construction. In any case, it can serve for 50 years, or even more, without losing its original appearance during the entire period of operation.

The process of laying sheets of metal tiles refers to such works, when performing which it is necessary to strictly adhere to the requirements specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. Departure from these recommendations can lead to a significant reduction in the life of the material, and manufacturers in such cases disclaim liability due to violation of warranty obligations.

Calculation of sheets of metal tiles

To buy the required number of sheets of metal tiles, first pay attention to any residential building in which such a roof is equipped. "Waves" are placed across the roof slope, and "rows" are located along the roof slope. The step of metal tiles is the distance between the rows. And the sheet, which consists of 6 "waves" and has a pitch of 350 millimeters, is called a "module". One-, three-, six- and ten-module warehouse sheets are on sale.

But you can also order sheets of your own measured dimensions. Of course, prices for a special order will be higher. However, when covering a complex roof with sheets of standard sizes, a lot of waste is obtained, which also affects the price of roof overlapping with metal tiles. But the possibility of individual cutting of the roofing material for each customer allows this waste to be significantly reduced. Therefore, you need to choose warehouse sheets or their cutting, based on a certain option.

The sheet of metal tile has 2 widths: general and useful. As for the length of the produced sheets, the minimum length is 450 millimeters, and the maximum reaches 7 meters. The bottom 50 millimeters of the sheet from the cut line to the crest of the wave is called the "bottom cut", the size of which is the same for cut and stock sheets. The "upper cut" from the crest of the wave to the edge at the top is 50 millimeters for standard metal sheets and up to 300 millimeters for custom-made sheets.

To calculate the number of rows of sheets horizontally, you need to divide the maximum length of the slope along the ridge or cornice by the useful width of the sheet. Round up the resulting number to a larger value. You can calculate the length of sheets in a stacked row by summing several values.

The first is the length of the slope, measured from the eaves to the ridge, that is, from the bottom to the top of the slope. The second is the length of the eaves overhang of 0.05 meters, which is calculated to prevent moisture from getting under the roofing sheets. The third is the length of the vertical overlap of the sheets at 0.15 meters. If there are two or more sheets in a row, then each subsequent sheet will be superimposed on the lower one, interlocking with each other in the place of the "lock" and forming a strong, sealed and even connection.

When choosing sheets of metal tiles, remember that it is not recommended to take sheets that have a length of more than 4-4.5 meters, because it is costly and rather laborious, inconveniences arise when loading, unloading and lifting material to the roof, because a long sheet can be scratched, bent and deform. When using very long sheets of metal tiles, it is better to cut them into pieces, which must be laid with an overlap of 150 millimeters.

Metal tiles, in accordance with building codes, must be stored in an unheated room, where protection from weather factors - rain and direct sunlight is maintained. The profiles that have the factory packaging must be laid on a flat area using beams as a support, which are 20 centimeters thick, in 50 centimeters increments. If you plan to store the material for longer than 1 month, unpack the metal tiles and stack them in stacks up to 70 centimeters high.

Construction of the rafter system

The calculation of the elements of the rafter system must be carried out at the stage of roof design. It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the shape of the roof, wind and snow loads for the region. In case of errors in the calculation of the step and section of the rafters, the roof may sag over time, and cracks also appear. The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be 600-900 millimeters. If this indicator is increased, then it is recommended to use transverse boards of a large section (crate). As a rule, it is customary to use rafters with a cross section of 100 or 150 by 50 millimeters.

If you plan to insulate the roof, it is advisable to equip additional horizontal ventilation between the rafters. Namely, in the side of the rafters, drill holes near the top of the roof that have a diameter of 2-2.5 centimeters, in increments of 30 centimeters. After that, it is necessary to treat wood materials with fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnations.

Before covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, it is recommended to check the length of all slopes diagonally, since the roof must have the correct rectangular shape. Then check the cornice, ridge, flatness and slope fractures for horizontalness. In the presence of errors, the surface must be leveled.

When choosing a metal tile as a roof covering, the minimum angle of inclination of the roof should reach 14 degrees, which ensures an acceptable water flow, the roof itself will not accumulate moisture and leak in the future. Be sure to install the eaves plank in the grooves sawn in the rafter legs to add more rigidity to the structure for mounting gutter hooks.

In many instructions for installing metal sheets, it is recommended to install a frontal strip as well. The frontal board is attached to the end of the rafters for added protection. The filing of eaves overhangs is performed using corrugated board, siding or soffits, having previously made a special crate. If soffits without perforation are used as filing, ventilation gaps must be left to ensure free air flow into the space under the roof.

The gutter hooks are installed just before the fastening of the roof tiles. It is best to use long hooks for greater structural strength. Install the gutter holders on the eaves by sawing out the grooves for the hook “leg”. Secure the hooks with self-tapping screws. The pitch of the gutter holders is usually the same as the pitch of the rafters. It is customary to use short hooks for mounted metal roofing.

Arrangement of waterproofing and ventilation

Any roofing cake is contraindicated in moisture and its very minimal entry into the under-roof space, as it leads to rotting and cracking of the rafter system and corrosion of metal sheets. It will be possible to avoid such negative factors if you choose an insulation of sufficient thickness for the roof, protect it from the effects of condensation by means of a waterproofing film and from moisture by means of vapor barrier, and also arrange natural ventilation of the space.

To organize correct ventilation of a roof made of metal tiles, you need to calculate the area of ​​ventilation gaps, according to the ratio of the total space of gaps for ventilation to the total area of ​​the roof 1 to 100. Remember that ventilation gaps must be placed between the waterproofing and the roof, heat and waterproofing for the through flow of air, at ridge and in the cornice hem for air flow.

For waterproofing metal roofing, it is customary to use waterproofing and anti-condensation films, as well as superdiffusion membranes. It is categorically not worth laying bituminous waterproofing under the metal roofing! The waterproofing material is laid in such a way that the air flows pass from the eaves without obstacles under the ridge of the roof and out through the ventilation holes that are installed in the highest place.

Lay the waterproofing layer horizontally between the ridge and the cornice with an overlap of 15 centimeters, on top of the rafter system. You should start from the cornices. Place the material with a slight slack between the legs of the rafters, 20-25 millimeters, to avoid tearing the film in cold weather. Fastening of this material can be carried out using wooden battens installed along the rafter trusses. Lay the vapor barrier film with an overlap under the insulation, connecting its pieces with adhesive tape.

Erection of the lathing for metal tiles

Metal tiles require the creation of a crate. For this, bars are used that have a cross section of 5 by 5 centimeters, and boards measuring 3.2 by 10 centimeters. First of all, nail the falling bars from the ridge to the cornice to the rafters along the waterproofing film. In the horizontal direction, sheathing boards are attached to them. The first of them from the cornice should be 1-1.5 centimeters thicker than the rest - 5 by 10 centimeters.

Boards must be fastened in compliance with such distances: from the beginning of the first board to the middle of the next one should be 28 centimeters, between the middle of the remaining boards - 35 centimeters. It is recommended to check the sheathing step every 5 rows from the first board. Self-laying of metal tiles is not an easy task. And if you make a mistake with the horizontalness of the cornice board, then you will have to interrupt the entire crate again.

Near the skylights, chimney ducts and in the valleys, you need to make a continuous crate, nailing to the sides of the ridge strip an additional two abutment strips measuring 150 by 25 millimeters over 300 millimeters. If the corner of the valley is almost flat, it is worth laying an additional layer of waterproofing material. Endova is attached with self-tapping screws to the crate with a step of 300 millimeters. The lower edge of the valley should be laid on top of the eaves. The overlap should be at least 100 millimeters at the horizontal joint of the valleys.

In the chimney, it is necessary to make a groove (it is strictly forbidden to groove into the seams of the masonry) with a depth of at least 15 millimeters and waterproof the pipe by 50 millimeters, securing the cut with adhesive tape. The outer abutment strips will be superimposed on the pipe, leading the upper part into the groove. This place must be sealed with a high-quality heat-resistant sealant. Also, at this stage, it is necessary to provide places for arranging the passage elements of the roof - ventilation and antenna outputs.

Fastening metal sheets

So we come to the main question, how to properly cover the roof with metal tiles. Regardless of the fact that the metal tile is a durable material, it is worth following some rules when working with it. The process of laying metal tiles begins on the ground, you need to unpack and lay out the sheets in piles intended for each slope. Do not take sheets with bare hands, wear protective gloves.

The technology of arranging a roof made of metal tiles allows cutting sheets for complex areas at the facility. However, you cannot cut the sheets with a grinder, as the protective polymer layer may be damaged. Use an electric nibbler or metal shear for cutting. Practice on a separate piece before you start cutting, as it is more difficult to cut metal tiles than ordinary steel sheets.

When lifting a metal tile to the roof, it is important not to scratch it. Take the sheet of material when moving over the edge of the stamping line and lift it to the roof using the board rails. It is not recommended to lift long sheets by the edges, because the sheet may bend. Also, do not load multiple sheets at the same time. Remember to use soft-soled shoes to navigate the sheets. Do not step on the crest of the wave, only on your toes. Place your foot parallel to the slope.

The direction of stacking of sheets is not tied to anything, therefore it can be carried out from left to right or from right to left. When choosing the installation of metal tiles from left to right, you will have to raise the edge of the sheet, and place the edge of the next one under it. As a result, the outermost sheet will rest on the previous one, or rather, on its transverse wave, which prevents the sheets from sliding. On gable roofs, the installation of sheets begins from the end, and on hip roofs, they are laid from the hip. Align the sheets with respect to the cornices. If you start with long sheets, it will be much easier to align them.

When laying the material in one row, the first sheet is placed on the crate, temporarily attached with one self-tapping screw. Then lay the next sheet, aligning with the first, and fasten the sheets together. Make sure that all sheets fit tightly and correctly from a geometric position to each other. Carry out the installation of metal tiles, moving from the eaves to the ridge. After that, attach all the sheets to the crate, and the last sheet in the row is attached to the crate only after the next block is aligned.

When laying sheets of metal tile from right to left in several rows, lay the first sheet, aligning it along the end and the cornice, then put on top of the first second sheet, temporarily fix it with one self-tapping screw in the center of the sheet at the ridge, align the sheets and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. Then you need to lay the third sheet on the left side of the first, fasten the sheets together and lay the fourth sheet over the third. Align the entire block along the end and cornice, and then finally attach the sheets of metal to the crate.

When laying material on a triangular slope, before starting installation, mark the center of the slope and draw an axis through this center. Then the same axis should be marked on the sheet and the lines of the axes drawn on the sheet and the slope should be combined. Secure the sheet at the ridge with one self-tapping screw. On both sides of it, continue the installation according to the principles that were described in the previous versions.

Sheets of metal tiles are attached to each other, cornices, ends and crate. First, three or four sheets are attached to each other at the joints, then they are fixed in place with one screw, aligned strictly along the cornice, and only then the sheets are finally attached to the crate. Sheets of roofing material are attached to the crate with two self-tapping screws - near the ridge and near the cornice. Proceed with the installation of the cover in the same way. Brush off the shavings from drilling with a soft brush after finishing the installation of the metal tile and touch up the surface if necessary.

End and ridge strip

To protect the metal tile from the lifting force of the wind and the process of loosening its fastening, an end plate is required. It also acts as a protective element for the structure against moisture. The end plate is installed towards the ridge from the eaves, the excess is cut off at the ridge. Fix this bar to the end board with self-tapping screws every 500-600 millimeters

Due to the difference in height, the end plate is tightly pressed against the sheets of metal tiles, this allows you to eliminate bounce and noise during gusts of wind. The overlap of the end strips should be up to 100 millimeters. A layer of waterproofing must be laid on top of the end strip, which will cover the edge of the waterproofing material. Also, such a bar should cover the upper crest of the wave, to protect the metal tile from water ingress.

For proper ventilation of the space under the roof, air must freely flow to the ridge from the eaves and out through the holes in the ridge seal. Lay waterproofing on the solid batten so that it overlaps the bottom layer of waterproofing material at the edges by at least 150 millimeters.

The ridge is attached to the crate with the help of ridge self-tapping screws into the upper crest of the metal tile wave on both sides. The seal is attached to the ridge before the latter is installed on the roof, after removing the protective film from it.

Upper valley and abutment strips

The upper end strip is needed to drain moisture from the inner corner of the roof, located at the junction of two slopes. The valley is fastened with self-tapping screws so that they do not pass through and do not damage the waterproofing. Remember that a self-expanding seal must be installed between the shingles and the upper valley.

It is also necessary to leave ventilation gaps between the valleys of the valley, about 20 millimeters in size, and make an overlap of 200 millimeters at the joints when laying the planks. The corner sheet of the valley must overlap the roofing sheet by at least 250 millimeters.

Special planks must be installed on the breaks of the roof and when the roof covering is adjacent to the wall. Roof fractures are reverse and direct. It is recommended to maintain continuous waterproofing in places of fractures. Lathing boards with a straight bend of the slope should be as close to each other as possible. The sheet of metal that covers the breaks of the slopes should protrude slightly above the break of the roof and thus cover it.

In the case of a reverse fracture of the roof slope, you can use the abutment to the wall as a mating element by placing it on the lower slope with the rolled side. The adjoining of the roof to the wall is arranged according to the same principle as the procedure for adjoining the pipe. The waterproofing is taken out and raised on the wall, at least 50 millimeters to the groove. Depending on the abutment - to the end or side of the wall, use a universal or profile seal.

Fastening of gutters and snow holders

Long hooks are installed on the eaves or rafters before covering the old roof with metal tiles. For better water flow, the trough angle should be at least 5 millimeters per linear meter. It is customary to install hooks with a vertical offset. To insert a groove into a hook, you need to bring the spout into the groove in such a way that the spout is inside the curl.

Then you should fix the other edge of the gutter with a cover plate retainer. At the same time, the outer edge of the gutter should be 6 millimeters lower than the inner edge in order to prevent water from entering the facade during a heavy downpour. The continuation of the edge of the metal tile should hang over the gutter by 50 millimeters. The connection of the gutter to the corner of another gutter or to the next gutter is made end-to-end using a special connector.

The gutter connector is equipped with a special rubber gasket to ensure a tight connection between the two gutters and to compensate for thermal expansion. The downpipe must be of such length that the drain elbow is located about 200 millimeters from the ground or a moisture-resistant base, as water splashes at too high a height. To organize the drainage of water, you need to equip a storm sewer.

It is imperative to install snow holders on a roof made of metal tiles, because thanks to these products, the snow will not fall on your head and will not scratch the roofing material when it comes down. Snow holders are attached under the second transverse step of the metal tile parallel to the cornice. They are installed under the crest of the wave in the bars that were previously attached. The lower edge of the snow holder is attached from above on every second wave. For long slopes, it is recommended to install the snow guards in several rows.

Lightning rod and grounding of the roof

To install a lightning rod and a weather vane, prepare a metal bracket, a compass, metal screws, and a wrench. Weather vane can be mounted on a ridge, roof end or spire. For safety reasons, the metal roof must be grounded. This is done in order to protect the roofing material from damage when lightning strikes the roof and to protect the inhabitants of the house. Such a system consists of a down conductor, a ground electrode and an air terminal.

The lightning rod is installed at the highest point of the roof using wooden supports. The down conductor is attached to the lightning rod and lowered along the crate under the tiles. It is welded to the lightning rod, and where it comes into contact with the sheets of metal, the protective coating or layer of varnish is removed. For greater contact of the points, it is worth branching such a wire into several sheets so that the lightning quickly finds the path of minimum resistance.

Then the down conductor is carried out along the wall of the residential building and connected to the ground electrode. It is recommended to conduct the down conductor along the wall opposite to the entrance. To equip the grounding of the roof, you need to dig a hole 1.5 meters deep, fill it with a layer of sand 10 centimeters long, fill it with water, lower the ground electrode there, fill the hole with soil and water it.

Now you have learned how much it costs to cover the roof with metal tiles, and how to do it correctly. But that is not all! Additional elements are included with each ventilation or antenna outlet. To begin with, you should attach the template of the passage element or ventilation outlet to the metal roof and circle it along the contour. Then you need to cut a hole along the resulting line. Outlets and passages are fixed to the metal profile with special self-tapping screws.

Often a situation arises when even newly built houses need roof overlap, not to mention buildings that have been built long ago. Such a need may arise due to leaks, sagging, heat loss, etc.
No less often, this service is required simply because the old roof needs to be replaced with a new one. In any case, the owner is faced with a choice - to contact a specialist, or to deal with the problem on his own.

To carry out the work, in addition to knowledge of theory and special tools, practical skills are required, without which it is simply impossible to successfully carry out all the operations necessary to obtain a result. Entrusting this work to professionals, you ensure a long life for the roof of your home.

Overlapping the roof of the house

The complex of works on roof overlapping occurs in several stages, each of which requires the utmost precision of execution.
For this, it is necessary to have knowledge of the main functions of the roof, namely, protective, sound and heat-insulating and aesthetic. You also need to have an idea of ​​all the components of the roofing structure, which is traditionally called "roofing pie" - the base, thermal insulation, vapor barrier, roofing material.

All this knowledge is fully possessed by the specialists working in our company "Roof Star"

Main steps:

• installation of the lathing;
• waterproofing and vapor barrier device;
• roof insulation;
• laying of roofing material.

The first three stages are common to all types of work. Fourth, it has its own specifics, depending on the selected material.

However, there are some general rules that must be applied when working with any roofing material:

• the roofing material should be laid from the bottom up (with the exception of hipped roofs) with obligatory alignment along the overhang and cornice;
• if the roof slope has a triangular shape, the roofing material is laid from the center on two sides;
• laying on rectangular slopes can be done both from left to right and from right to left;
• to ensure the normal ingress of water into the gutters, the roofing material should hang from the crate by 5-6 cm;
• if the scope of delivery of the roofing material does not include special fasteners for mounting the covering, self-tapping screws or nails should be used.

More details about the various materials used by the specialists of our company when carrying out work on roof overlap can be found in the relevant sections of our website.

Roof overlap price

The Roof Star company has been successfully operating in the market of roofing services for a long time.
We are ready to offer our clients really low prices for roof covering of any size, configuration and type of roofing.

Here are just a few main reasons why it is worth ordering a roof overlap from us:

• We work directly with the best domestic and foreign manufacturers, and therefore we can offer our clients any of the best roofing materials at the lowest prices.
• A specialist measurer goes to the object at any time convenient for you.
• We carry out all types of work, we will take over the roof of a house of any size and complexity, we work with any materials.
• The exact cost of all services is determined before the start of work and is prescribed in the contract;
• A guarantee is provided for all types of work.

“Roof Star Company” is a place where every client is welcome.