Floriculture and landscaping (Boychenko E.P.). Distance between vegetables when planting (nutrition area) - memo Distance between flowers when planting

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It is not difficult to prolong the beauty of a blooming garden if perennial plants grow in it. Once planted in the garden, these flowers grow in the same place year after year, delighting us with their amazing blooms. Unlike annuals and biennials, they do not leave the garden after one or two seasons, but remain in it much longer.

However, for a flowerbed of perennials to look like a beautiful painting, it is not enough just to choose the plants you like and plant them. You also need to properly plan the flower bed, where the plants match in height, shape and color. A common mistake when creating a flower garden from perennials is dense planting. Sometimes not only novice gardeners have a hard time maintaining the required distance between plants. Often perennial plants are planted too closely. Of course, such a flowerbed will look beautiful already in the first season, but within three years the plants will become crowded, they will crowd out each other and you will have to replant some of them. active growth requires space!

Most of the perennial potted plants purchased at garden centers look more or less the same in size, and one can only guess about the intensity of their growth in the flowerbed. Therefore, already when planning a flower garden, you should find out about the size of adult plants that will decorate your flower garden.

The height of a perennial indicates the necessary living space in a flower garden, but does not at all indicate its growth form. So, for example, in rock gardens there are some plants that reach barely 10 cm in height, but thanks to creeping ground or root shoots they grow greatly in width. On the other hand, some types of herbaceous perennials, such as larkspur, stretch only upward, without growing at all in width. Gardeners distinguish between long-rhizome perennial plants with long creeping horizontal shoots and dense bushes, in which new shoots grow vertically upward. But such a classification of plants cannot be clear. After all, all ornamental grasses and herbaceous perennials that reproduce by division form shoots. The question is how long they can reach.

Garden landscape designers divided herbaceous perennial plants into three groups. The first group consists of the so-called defining plants, which play the role of a “skeleton” in the design of a flower garden, that is, they determine the structure of the flower garden. We are talking about tall species of perennials with large flowers, creating a very impressive picture. Involuntarily, attention is drawn to such plants as, for example, loosestrife of pale pink color, Echinops - one of the most popular dried flowers, strikingly beautiful Rogers, with large corymbose inflorescences that do not lose their decorative effect even after flowering, or black cohosh with openwork paniculate or narrow racemose inflorescences. They are planted singly or in groups of two bushes at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other.

Sill as a plant that determines the structure of a flower bed

The second group of herbaceous perennials is formed by accompanying plants, such as rudbeckia, magnificent dicentra, cornflower or sedum. They are slightly lower and more modest than the defining perennials of the first group. Such plants of medium height are planted in groups of 3-4 plants. Gardeners recommend maintaining a distance of at least 40 centimeters for plants of the second group.

The third group includes filling plants, that is, plants that fill empty spaces in the composition. With their help, you can create colorful spots, giving the flower garden design a special beauty. We are talking about discreet, low-growing herbaceous perennial plants that are not capable of forming root suckers. They are planted in large or small groups along the edges of the flower bed or in the spaces between the defining and accompanying perennials, harmoniously linking the entire space of the flower garden into a single whole. Dense flowering carpets are formed by bush aster, lady's mantle, soapwort, doronicum, and Cambrian meconopsis. When planting fill plants, maintain a distance of 25 cm between them.

Larkspur defines the structure of the flowerbed, around it grow lower accompanying irises in yellow and blue, and the spaces between them are filled with white sage, cornflower and monarda doublet.

If it is difficult to determine which group a particular perennial belongs to, difficulties arise mainly with the defining and accompanying plants, you can be guided by their vertical growth. This means that when planting perennials, it is worth maintaining a distance between them that is equal to 1/3 of the height of adult plants.

It is difficult to determine the growth rate of different types of perennials based on a young plant

The spacing between fill plants when planting depends greatly on the growth habit of a particular plant. In this case, you should focus on how the plant grows: either its ground shoots “scatter to the sides,” as in some types of geranium, or they grow vertically, closely adjacent to each other, as in gravilata. Densely bushy species should be planted at a distance of a maximum of 20 cm from each other, and long-rhizome species with horizontally creeping shoots should be planted at a distance of 30 cm or more, depending on how quickly the plant fills the empty space.

For many species of perennials, such as Horny Weed or Waldsteinia strawberry, which are often used as ground cover plants, the planting density is determined by the number of specimens per square meter, which is indicated in the perennial catalog. Such data, a little abstract for non-specialists, can be easily converted: divide 100 by the number of plants per 1 square meter indicated in the catalog, then multiply by 2 - and you will get the required distance when planting.

Having a ready-made flower garden plan, you can begin its practical implementation in the garden. It is recommended to divide the prepared surface of the future flower garden into a grid of squares with sides of 100 x 100 cm or 50 x 50 cm. Then use light sand to make markings. This method will allow you to avoid mistakes when planting, it ensures that each perennial will be planted at the correct distance, without resorting to a marking line every time.

Preparing the soil for a perennial flower garden

Before planting perennial herbaceous plants, you should carefully prepare the soil and remove all roots of perennial weeds. This is especially true for such tenacious weeds as wheatgrass, duckweed and horsetail. Later it will be very difficult to deal with their long underground shoots.

On heavy soils, moisture stagnates. To give them a looser structure, loosening components such as coarse sand, peat, compost or bark humus should be added. To improve and enrich the structure of light sandy soils, you can add compost, a topsoil layer of clay soil or fireclay flour (bentonite).

Thanks to digging and cultivation, the soil becomes loose. Finally, horn shavings or organic fertilizers should be scattered over the entire surface of the soil in an even layer.

Before planting, the plants are distributed over the area of ​​the flower garden.

After all the perennials have been distributed over the area of ​​the flower garden, they are removed from the pots (if necessary), the roots are straightened and placed in the holes so that the upper edge of the root ball is covered with a maximum of 1 cm of soil. The soil around the roots should be compacted with your fingers , and lightly loosen the soil between the plants. Finally, each individual plant is thoroughly watered.

Tip: often the earthen ball of a purchased plant is dry. Therefore, before planting in a flower garden, dip the perennial along with the pot into water and hold until air bubbles no longer appear in the water. A plant with a moist earthen ball can be easily removed from the pot, and after planting it in the hole, it will not need to be watered so much.

If planting distances between perennial plants are maintained, the flower garden usually looks bare in the first year. The voids between groups of perennials can be filled with variegated ones. But after a few years, the need for annuals in a flower garden with perennial plants, as a rule, disappears.

Translation: Lesya V.
especially for the Internet portal
garden center "Your Garden"

Every May, as a not very experienced summer resident, I have questions, the answers to which I always forget. Just like in that joke about a student: “I knew. But I forgot." One of these questions is at what distance and at what depth to sow and plant.

The well-known rule of sowing to a depth equal to three diameters of the seed baffles me. So how do you sow tiny carrot seeds? What about large potato tubers? Therefore, I offer a ready-made cheat sheet, collected bit by bit over the five years of my gardening and carefully written down in my country notebook.

Peas, beans and beans should be sown at a distance of 10-15 cm to a depth of 2-3 cm, then in case of rain the seeds will not become bare and birds will not peck them.

I sow bush dill, head lettuce, and large radishes at a distance of 5 cm, this allows me to use the seeds sparingly. The planting depth is about 1 cm for dill and radishes and a little more for lettuce, since the bush should hold up well and not fall when watered.

Lighting conditions, thermal, food, water and air regimes of vegetable plants, their resistance to pests and, finally, their ability to resist weeds very much depend on the density of standing and the nature of the placement of garden crops on the site, i.e. on the feeding area and its configurations. The nutritional area is the space occupied by one plant.

What distance to keep when planting vegetables

The influence of feeding area on the quantity and quality of the crop is great. When plants are placed too densely, they mutually inhibit each other. And this leads to a decrease in commercial yield per unit area. With an increase in the area of ​​plant nutrition, the yield per unit area first increases and then falls again, since plants, when placed too sparsely, do not fully use all the conditions provided to them.

The size of the supply area depends on external conditions. If their combination is favorable, the plants are placed more densely, and if they are negative, less often. Consequently, the better the climatic conditions, the higher the soil fertility and the level of agricultural technology, the smaller the nutritional area required for vegetable plants.

Division into groups

The feeding area varies depending on the biological characteristics of the plants. Vegetable crops are divided into two groups based on their growth patterns.

Plants of the first group (onions, root vegetables, cabbage, leafy vegetables) in the first year of life have a non-branching stem and one production organ: a head of cabbage, an onion, a root vegetable, and a rosette of leaves.

Plants of the second group (cucumber, tomato, pepper, eggplant, melons, peas and beans) form a branching bush with continuously growing stems, have a long fruiting period and produce a large number of fruits.

Reducing the feeding area under a favorable combination of external conditions applies only to vegetable plants of the first group. For crops from the second group, characterized by long-term fruiting, the feeding area under favorable conditions of growth and development must be increased. An exception to this rule are pumpkins, in which the duration of fruiting is limited by reducing the feeding area.

Varietal features

The feeding area of ​​plants also depends on the variety. Early varieties of vegetable plants, having a less powerful above-ground part than later ones, therefore require a smaller feeding area. For early varieties of cabbage, for example, the optimal feeding area is 0.2-0.3 m2, for medium varieties - 0.4-0.5, and for late varieties - 0.5-0.6 m2.

How many flowers?

The nutritional area of ​​plants also varies depending on the formation method used in the cultivation of cucumber and tomato in order to accelerate fruiting. In its natural form, as is known, a tomato forms a powerful bush with 10-20 or more fruiting inflorescences. In this case, in order to ensure favorable lighting conditions, the plant feeding area should be equal to 70×70 cm. Due to the fact that during formation, by removing the side branches, the size of the bush is sharply reduced, the feeding area can be reduced by 5-10 times.

If a tomato plant is left with only two inflorescences, then a feeding area of ​​30×30 or even 25×25 cm will be sufficient for it. If one inflorescence is left on the plant, the feeding area can be reduced down to 15×15 cm.

Power area configuration

The square feeding area provides uniform spacing between plants and better conditions for their growth and development. With this placement, the root system is evenly distributed in all directions, and the plant itself is well illuminated by the sun during the day. However, square and square-cluster placement of plants is effective only if their feeding area is more than 1000 cm 2.

With a smaller feeding area, such placement of plants makes it difficult to perform a number of works: loosening the soil, weeding, feeding plants. For carrots, for example, the optimal feeding area will be an area of ​​80-90 cm2. With a square placement (9x9 cm), even manual inter-row cultivation of the plantation is impossible.

Therefore, in practice it is customary to reduce the distance between plants in a row and increase the row spacing. When plants are placed in a row, the feeding area takes the shape of an elongated rectangle. From a biological point of view, such placement of plants to some extent worsens the growing conditions, but from the point of view of making it easier and more convenient to care for plants, it justifies itself.

In this case, the distance between carrot plants in a row can be reduced to 3-4 cm, and the row spacing increased to 20-30 cm. A similar example can also be given for potatoes. According to the biological characteristics of this crop, a row spacing of 65 cm is sufficient. To obtain a given planting density, it is necessary to place the tubers in the row at a distance of 25 cm from each other. But this option is not suitable for a trivial reason: the amount of soil that is between the rows is not enough to form a ridge of the required volume. And given the fact that walk-behind tractors and electric-powered machines have recently begun to be used in summer cottages, inter-row cultivation is impossible due to the high probability of causing injury to plants, especially their root system. Even placing carrots and beets with a row spacing of 45 cm during mechanized cultivation of row spacing in industrial crops requires exquisite work and often leads to significant damage to the plants.

Advantages of strip sowing

That is why in recent years strip sowing has been increasingly introduced into production. Their essence lies in the fact that the plants in the tape are placed in 2-5 lines, but the distance between the tapes is increased.

Thus, in the republican unitary enterprise “Institute of Vegetable Growing”, carrots and beets are sown on ridges in two rows. The distance between the tops of the ridges is 70 cm, and the distance between the rows on the ridge is 8 cm. Recently, even in public and private farms, not to mention summer cottages, you can find paired rows of potatoes.

A characteristic feature of this planting scheme is the presence of a voluminous ridge above these rows, which, no doubt, causes increased formation of stolons.

In industrial conditions, plants in tapes are treated with herbicides, but in the countryside it is still better to use agrotechnical weed control measures. The optimal density of plants in the garden bed is presented in the table.

Density of plantings and crops - table

It has always been “in shape”, it needs to be planted correctly and formed so that the fence is dense, and at the same time the seedlings do not interfere with each other. In the material, planting a hedge - theory and practice, there is a reminder about the necessary knowledge before planting a hedge.

Planting a hedge. Theory

Any work includes a theoretical and practical part, and the more information you have collected about the upcoming operation, the easier it is to implement it practically. Therefore, the following information will be useful to all gardeners, and especially beginners, because These postulates can be applied to planting any plant. So, let's begin…

About any plant that you want to plant on your site, you need to know the following:

Planting a hedge. Practice

When purchasing seedlings, first of all check the condition of the earthen clod: it should be dense and compact. There should be no damage on the trunk bark larger than 2 cm. It is best to purchase seedlings of well-known varieties in special nurseries.

For your information: The distance between plants depends on the biological properties of the breed, conditions, lighting and the functional purpose of the fence.

To form high the distance when planting in a row is 0.5 m, in row spacing - 0.6 m. Densely planted in one or two rows and short-cut trellises made of spruce or prickly hawthorn are almost impenetrable even for a dog or cat.

While creating tall untrimmed hedge the distance when planting in a row is 1.0 m.

For medium hedges the distance between plants in a row for single-row planting is 0.4-0.6 m, in a double-row green fence the distance in a row is 0.5-0.7 m, and between rows is 0.4-0.6 m.

Low trimmed hedge. When creating such a hedge, the distance when planting in a row is 0.33 m, in the row spacing - 0.4 m.

Low untrimmed hedge. We plant plants according to the pattern of 0.4 m in a row and 0.4 m in the row spacing.

Border. Plants are planted in one or two rows, but so that the width of the border does not exceed 30 cm. For a trimmed border hedge, the distance when planting in a row is 0.15 m, in the row spacing - 0.20 m; for untrimmed border hedges – 0.20 m and 0.20 m
respectively .

For one linear meter of a single-row fence, two to three plants are required, a two-row fence requires four to six, and a three-row fence requires seven to nine. Between the rows of a fence of uniform composition, the distance is 30-50 cm, and between tiered plantings - up to 70 cm. The planting line is marked with a stretched cord, and if the fence is single-row, then the places where the crops will be planted are immediately marked. When laying a multi-row hedge, it is more convenient to first dig a trench and figure out how the plants will look, and only then plant them, as mentioned earlier, in a checkerboard pattern.

The ground for backfilling trenches must be prepared in advance. Sand and peat are added to heavy clay soils, and loam is added to sandy loam soils. In damp, marshy areas, drainage is poured at the bottom of the trench - a 10-15-centimeter layer of crushed granite or broken brick. Then the soil is thoroughly compacted, watered abundantly and finally mulched. Two weeks after planting, the plants are fed with a liquid solution of complex fertilizer; throughout the summer, feeding is repeated every three to four weeks.

Planting a hedge. Alley planting

When planting seedlings, the distance between plants in rows should be at least 5 m, and between rows - 8, 10, 12 m or more, depending on the capabilities of the planted area. It is best to use large-sized planting material.

A mulching layer of straw, sawdust or peat will prevent rapid evaporation of water and retard the development of weeds. Mulch will also protect the young roots of plants planted in the fall from severe frosts. The fibrous roots of the shrubs will be reliably protected from direct sun, which is very important for plants with a shallow root system, such as, for example, cypress.

The shoots and chopped branches remaining after pruning are perfect for this.

On a note: I would like to pay special attention to planting coniferous trees in alleys. Their decorative effect depends on the size and shape of the forming trees, which in turn is determined by the length and width of the alley. In our conditions, open alleys with a large interval between trees are advisable. For Norway spruce, the recommended alley width is 14-16 m, the interval between trees is 8-10 m; for western thuja, 6-8 m and 4 m, respectively. Common spruce (European) seedlings grown without a container or pot are best planted in late August - September. By this time, the tree has finished growing, the young needles are covered with a coating that prevents the evaporation of moisture, and the roots continue to develop. Therefore, after transplantation, the plant has time to take root safely before the onset of cold weather.

Important: Cossack juniper should be transplanted to a permanent place at the age of 4-5 years and only in early spring.

On a note: Evergreens need to be watered even after a long cold spell. It is also recommended to additionally cover them with burlap, reed mats or jute to protect them from evaporation, especially young plantings.

For your information: Japanese quince branches are pinned to the ground for the winter so that the flowers appear in the upper part of the bush, and not near the ground. Young plants need to be planted, since due to the poorly developed root system, quince does not tolerate transplantation well. It is photophilous, which must be taken into account when choosing a planting site. On personal plots this is usually the south side of the house.

Hawthorn also requires special attention when planting - if the root collar is deepened, there may be no flowering.

You can order the planting of hedges in Minsk and the Minsk region:

Material prepared by: horticulture specialist Buinovsky O.I.