Dimmer instructions for use. How to install a dimmer - a switch with a dimmer instead of a regular one

In order to connect a dimmer to a chandelier, the brightness of which it will control, you need to perform just a few simple steps. It is much more important to do everything correctly, because this type of dimmer can quickly fail if connected to the network incorrectly. Next, we will look at useful installation tips, the simplest connection diagrams, as well as the requirements for installing a dimmer yourself.

How the device works

First you need to understand the fact. The principle of operation is to smoothly regulate the voltage that is supplied to a controlled, for example, spotlight.

Simply put, the device can change the voltage that goes to the light bulb from 0 to 100%. The lower the output voltage, the dimmer the glow will be. At the same time, there are different types of dimmers that differ not only in appearance, but also, of course, in their operating principle, namely:

• control: wheel (rotary), button (push), sensor (electronic);
• application: halogen, fluorescent, LED light sources or;
• additional features: timer, remote control, clap on, smooth shutdown, etc.;
• design: modular (mounted on a DIN rail), monoblock (mounted in the wall, like sockets).

So, now let's look at the basic requirements for installing and connecting a dimmer with your own hands.

Application requirements

It should be noted right away that the simplest dimmers that are used at home can only be used to control incandescent and halogen lamps. If they are connected to LED strips and fluorescent light bulbs, both devices will fail in a short period of time. This is why it is necessary to choose dimmers based on which light bulbs they will control.

The remaining requirements when connecting a dimmer are as follows:

• The minimum power of the lamp to which the connection will be made should not be lower than 40 W. If you ignore this point, the service life of the regulator will be noticeably reduced.
• It is not recommended to install the dimmer in a room where the temperature is above 25 o C. Overheating of the device will negatively affect its operation.
• The phase conductor must go to the break, which is connected to the connector marked L. Connecting the zero is strictly prohibited, in fact, as in the standard version.
• To adjust the glow, choose products with the appropriate designation, which indicates that the light bulb can be used for dimming.
• If you decide to use a dimmer together with strips, you need to buy a device of a special design that can work with such a light source. Leading manufacturers: Schneider, Legrand, ABB and Viko have such models in their range, but their cost is much higher.
• The power of the dimmer must exceed the total power of the lamps it will serve. For example, if you decide to use 3 100-watt light bulbs, the power of the device should be selected with a margin of at least 500 watts. If the total power of the luminaires is more than 1 kW, in this case you need to additionally connect an amplifier, with which it is possible to service a lighting system with a power of up to 1.8 kW.
• It is prohibited to simultaneously connect capacitive and inductive loads to the dimmer.

These are all the requirements that you must adhere to in order to correctly connect the dimmer with your own hands!

Connection diagrams

Before proceeding with the installation of the device, you must select the most suitable wiring diagram. Today, you can connect a dimmer with or without a light switch, as an independent control element. At the same time, you can simultaneously install several identical devices, or even use a combination with. Let's look at each scheme in more detail and determine the advantages of all options.

Standard terms

In this case, you need to connect the dimmer yourself instead of the switch that was installed earlier. Everything is simple - we connect the phase to a break, and ground and zero directly to the lamp (if a 220 Volt network with three wires is used).

In the diagram you can clearly see the essence of this method:

This option is the simplest and will not take you much time, especially if you use an old groove for installation work.

With switch

This method is more convenient for use in the bedroom, because... it will be possible to turn the light on/off using a regular switch, and place the dimmer near the bed, which will allow you to control the brightness of the lighting without getting up.

Dual control

To control the brightness of room lighting from two different places, you can install two dimmers and connect them together with jumpers. This option is recommended for use in spacious rooms and long corridors.

Another option for controlling the lamp and its brightness from several places is the use of pass-through switches.

The dimmer connection diagram in this case looks like this:

After choosing the dimmer connection diagram that is most suitable for your conditions, you need to move on to the final stage - installing the product.

Visual video lesson on connecting wires

Installation work

In fact, the technology for installing a dimmer is no different from installing an ordinary light switch.

If you already have a ready-made strobe to which the wires from the junction box and the lamp are connected, you can connect the dimmer yourself as follows:

1. We turn off the electricity in the apartment.
2. We install the mounting box into the recess.
3. We fix the cores in the corresponding terminals of the housing.
4. We place the body in the groove.
5. We unscrew the side screws so that the presser feet are pressed against the walls of the mounting box.
6. We attach the decorative frame, tighten the nut and screw the wheel - the structure is assembled.
7. We turn on the electricity and check the correctness of the electrical installation work.

This is the technology used to connect the dimmer and install it yourself. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in this event, the main thing is to choose the right type of lamps and device model! Even electric kettles can easily handle the installation, but if you encounter any difficulties, it is better to watch the video instructions provided below.

Instructions for correctly replacing a key switch with a dimmer

Related materials:

Once you have decided on the brand and type of dimmer to adjust the lighting, you need to connect it somehow.

In addition to simple models, where there are only two input-output terminals, you should not forget about other nuances. Therefore, let's look step by step from A to Z at the main circuits for connecting a dimmer to a lighting network that you may encounter.

On the one hand, such a regulator can be turned on to control one or several lamps as a single electrical point. It doesn’t matter whether it’s a touch dimmer or a rotary-push one.

Or you can use a pass-through dimmer and control the light from different places in your apartment or house.

But in general, before connecting any lamp in the apartment, it would not hurt to find out whether it can be dimmed at all. After all, there are many problems with this matter, especially with LED lamps.

When it comes to ordinary incandescent or halogen lamps, there is no need to rack your brains.

Wiring diagram for a simple dimmer

If you need to replace a regular light switch with a dimmer, then the simplest connection diagram is as follows:

Or in more expanded form:

Scheme№1

In fact, all you have to do is run a phase through it. That is, put it in a wiring break, just like a simple single-key switch.

An exception may be touch dimmers with a digital display and a display on the front panel. For example, like Uniel and other models.

Both phase and neutral conductors must be connected to such dimmers. They have 4 sockets for wire entry. Input phase-zero and output phase-zero.

Without zero, such a dimmer will not work. If you only have two wires sticking out of the mounting box on the wall (this is the case with 99% of users), you will also have to pull a “clean” zero.

The same applies to all kinds of universal dimmers, which can be used in a wide range and connected with other modules - light sensors, motion sensors, etc.

For low-power lamps that cannot be adjusted normally, a dimmer with an additional output for the neutral wire can also be used. This is due to the fact that when the sinusoid passes through the zero mark and the lamp’s power is low, the control element cannot determine when to close.

Therefore, always think carefully before purchasing newfangled and fancy models. Potentially, the “N” icon on the dimmer housing should scare you away from such a purchase.

Whether you can connect them without ripping them apart, chipping the walls and tearing off the wallpaper is a big question.

This does not apply to other simplest specimens. You can install them yourself instead of a simple light switch.

It is enough to pull out the insides of the one-key switch, and connect the two wires that will stick out from the box to two terminals of the dimmer.

If you have a two-key switch that starts each half of the chandelier in turn, then there is nothing complicated here.

In this case, there will be three wires in the installation box - one incoming phase and two outgoing to the lamp. The main thing is to find them correctly and not confuse them. Detailed instructions given in a separate article will help you with this.

Twist these two wires together and connect them to the dimmer terminal, marked as “dimmed load” or numbers 1,2. Connect the supply phase to the other terminal.

There is no particular difference in polarity. Even if you mix up the clamps, the lamp will still light up and work.

It is desirable that exactly the phase, and not zero, comes to the dimmer. Firstly, it is not clear how a device, especially one filled with electronics, will behave in this case. Secondly, do not forget about the correct connection of the wires to the light bulb socket.

According to safety rules, the phase should not be present on the threaded part.

Also, be wary of backlit dimmers.

Some specimens with an LED in the housing, precisely “thanks to” this diode, can, even when unscrewed until it clicks, produce a voltage above 100V on an empty light bulb socket.

You have to install additional resistance or capacitors in order to shunt the voltage and prevent unpleasant flickering.

All of the above applies primarily to replacing a switch with a dimmer in an already furnished apartment. Let's also look at the step-by-step installation of all electrical wiring associated with this type of work.

What materials might you need for installation? If you do not have ready-made wiring and we are talking about major renovations in the apartment, as they say from scratch, then purchase:

• two-core cable VVGng-Ls 2*1.5mm2

• three-core cable VVGng-Ls 3*1.5mm2

Why exactly VVGng-Ls, and not any other, can be found out here.

• the dimmer itself

• dimmable luminaire or lamp

• Vago clamps or sleeves for crimping

First, stretch a 3-wire cable from the electrical panel to the distribution box where all electrical ends will be switched.

In the shield, connect the cable cores to a separate switch.

In order not to confuse phase, neutral and grounding, it is better to label the conductors with a marker L, N, Pe or remember and navigate by color.

A grounding conductor must be used if your chandelier or lamp has a metal body. When the material is plastic, the Pe core does not need to be connected, but it is still advisable to lay it.

Maybe in the future you will replace the brand of the lamp, or if a phase or zero is accidentally damaged, this same core can be used as a backup. You will save yourself a lot of wires, money and nerves.

Only phase will be transmitted through this cable. You can designate one core as L (power), the other as Llight (it will go to the lamp).

You have laid two cables, the only thing left is the third one, which will go along the ceiling directly to the chandelier. You also route it from this junction box. The number of cores is three.

Strip the ends of the cable on both sides and label them according to the colors: Llight - phase, N-zero, Pe-ground.

After all these manipulations, it is necessary to correctly combine the cores of all cables inserted into the junction box. This is why it was recommended to sign them.

In order not to confuse anything, first combine the neutral conductors, then the grounding ends.

They always go directly to the light bulb, bypassing any switches and regulators. After this, connect the phase that comes from the shield with the conductor going down to the dimmer.

You should only have two Llight wires left, that is, those ends that directly supply the phase from the dimmer to the lamp.

The connection in the junction box is ready and it closes. All that remains is to connect the dimmer itself and the chandelier.

The dimmer is disassembled before installation. To do this, first remove the rotary-push “head” or key.

And then, by unscrewing the hidden nut or screws with a screwdriver, the plastic case is removed.

Phase L is connected to the corresponding connector L. The Llight core is connected to the second terminal, marked as a dimmable load.

This terminal usually has an icon in the form of a wavy line or a symbol of a light bulb.

After connecting the ends, fix the housing in the mounting box and install the decorative frame.

At the very end, connect the lead wires on the ceiling to a chandelier or other lamp.

This can be done through insulated sleeves or Wago clamps.

Dimming a table lamp

If you need to dim a table lamp or bedside lamp rather than a ceiling lamp, then this entire complicated procedure can be avoided.

It is enough to disconnect and throw away the factory power cord and connect a special dimmer on the cord in its place.

There are plenty of models in stores and on Ali. Separate boxes without wires are also sold.

You will need them if you do not want to throw away the factory cord from the table lamp.

For those who don’t want to go into such a jungle at all and rework wiring diagrams, dimmers for sockets are sold.

You plug this structure into the nearest outlet, and through it you connect the plug of the table lamp. And everything is perfectly regulated.

Connection diagram for pass-through dimmer

This dimmer is used in conjunction with pass-through switches. The pass-through design is widely used in the bedroom.

The switch is placed at the entrance to the room, and the dimmer is mounted near the bed. I came in - turned on the light, went to bed - adjusted the desired brightness or created twilight for watching TV. Before going to bed, without getting out of bed, I turned it off.

On the housings of pass-through dimmers there are usually arrows drawn in different directions.

There can be a total of 4 terminals. The "X" terminal, located on the right, is usually not involved in any way in the circuit and can be used as an additional terminal. You don't need to connect anything to it.

If you come across such a dimmer, but you do not want to use it as a pass-through, then the power phase should be inserted into the connector with the arrow pointing inward.

On a regular dimmer with two arrows facing inward, you can select any contact. This will not affect the performance of the device.

To install a pass-through dimmer, the same materials will be required, only the cable must be 3-core. The stages of work are practically repeated.

1 Installation of the cable from the electrical panel to the distribution box.
2 Laying a three-core cable from the box to the dimmer installation location.

Sign the ends as:

• Llight - phase leaving for the lamp

• L1 and L2 - connection with pass-through switch

3 Installation of the cable from the junction box to the installation location of the pass-through switch.

A three-core cable marked L, L1, L2 is used.

4 Installation of the cable to the lamp itself.

As a result, in one junction box you will have 12 cores at once. It is very easy to get confused in them, so never be lazy to label the wires.

Start the connection with the neutral and grounding conductors. It is difficult to confuse them.

In the end you should end up with the following diagram or chain:

• the phase has arrived in the junction box

• went from it to the pass-through switch + came back

• went to the pass-through dimmer

• came back and entered the lamp through Llight

In this case, the power supply of the dimmer and switch are connected to each other through conductors L1 and L2. Due to this, the chandelier will be controlled from two places.

Check the correctness of the assembled circuit and connect the dimmer itself.

Place the wires from the pass-through switch L1 and L2 into terminals 1 and 2 (or into the clamps with arrows). On the body, look for the icon that unites them.

To the “dimmable load” terminal you connect the Llight phase going to the lamp.

Fix the dimmer in the mounting box and install the overhead frame. All that remains is to connect the pass-through switch.

Look for a common terminal on it and feed it the phase coming from the junction box.

Connect the two remaining ends L1 and L2 in any order.

After checking the functionality of the circuit, mount the switch into the wall and carry out finishing work.

If suddenly the light does not light up, do not forget that such mechanisms have built-in fuses. Often even two (one spare).

Check their integrity with a multimeter and replace if necessary.

By the way, instead of a second pass-through switch, no one forbids you to use a second dimmer. Connection diagram for such an assembly:

The pleasure is certainly not cheap, but sometimes it justifies itself.

Diagram for connecting and controlling a dimmer from anywhere

If you want something cheaper, look at three-pin dimmers. They can also work like walk-through ones, but do not require special switches. For example, individual models from Legrand or Schneider.

Their third contact is used to connect non-fixed buttons, like a bell. Pressed once - they gave a command to turn on the dimmer. We held it longer - dimming began.

The electrical connection diagram here is as follows.

3

Connecting LED strip

Through special dimmers you can connect not only light bulbs, but also LED strips or low-voltage LED lamps.

Triac dimmer circuit

Before starting electrical installation work, you need to decide how and from what location it will be more convenient to control the dimmer. To do this, a dimmer connection diagram is drawn up. Any home handyman with basic electrical installation skills can connect any of the circuits he needs with his own hands.

Scheme No. 1

The simplest and most common circuit consists of a dimmer and lamps that are connected to it in series. The dimmer is placed in the gap in the phase wire, marked “L”. In this case, one wire from the junction box is connected to the “L” terminal with an upward arrow, and the second wire is connected to the “~” terminal with an inclined arrow. According to this scheme, a dimmer is installed instead of a regular switch.

Scheme No. 2

The circuit is convenient to use when the dimmer is installed together with a switch, connected to the phase wire break in front of the dimmer. Very often, a dimmer circuit with a switch is installed in the bedroom, when the dimmer is located near the bed and allows you to adjust the lighting without getting up from it, and the switch is located at the entrance to the room.

Scheme No. 3

A circuit with two dimmers allows you to place the controls in different corners of the room. This is especially convenient in large rooms with several light sources, for example, sconces and chandeliers. To connect according to this scheme, it is necessary that three wires go from each source to the distribution box, two of which are connected by jumpers, and the phase comes to one third contact, and from the second regulator the third contact goes to the lamp.

Scheme No. 4

In a long corridor or walk-through room, a circuit with two pass-through switches is usually connected. The lights are turned on and off from different ends of the corridor or room. In this case, pass-through switches are used.

For LED lamps, you cannot use the same dimmer as for halogen and incandescent lamps, designed for a specific type of load. Most of the LED, fluorescent and energy-saving lamps are not configured to work with a conventional dimmer and quickly fail. But today there are special dimmers on sale for working with this type of lamp.

Any modified device that makes operating electrical appliances more comfortable quickly becomes popular. This is especially true in the domestic sphere. The emerging regulators are not yet as in demand as conventional switches, but they have already confidently occupied their niche.

Let's look at how to connect a dimmer yourself, while complying with the standards and not making mistakes.

A dimmer or, in other words, a dimmer allows you to set different lighting modes from one point. Unlike a two-key switch, which can provide up to 3 intensity positions, this device smoothly changes the brightness of one or more light sources from the weakest to the maximum.

To install it correctly, you need to understand the design. But this is where a complication arises regarding the different species. There are devices on sale with different control methods.

The most famous is the rotary mechanism, but besides it you can also come across push-button, electronic, remote and even acoustic ones.

The main operating element of the rotary model is the handle, which must be turned clockwise/counterclockwise to reduce or increase the lighting power

Like a switch, a light controller of the simplest design is connected to a two-wire wire in an open circuit.

The first contact is for the incoming phase coming from the distribution box, the second is for the outgoing load core, which is directed to the lighting source. The lighting fixtures can be a table lamp, floor lamp, chandelier, sconce or a group of spotlights.

Manufacturers provide devices with detailed wiring diagrams that must be followed. They are printed on paper and directly on a plastic case

The push-button regulator resembles a regular switch: by briefly pressing the keys you can turn the lamp on/off. However, if you hold the key for 1-2 seconds, the lighting intensity will gradually change.

Modern electronic models can simultaneously control several lamps (from 2 to 5) installed in different rooms. Remote devices are equipped with a remote control. But you need to remember - the wider the functionality of the dimmer, the higher its cost.

If we talk about differences in installation, then the installation and connection of electronic devices is almost the same, with the exception of nuances characteristic of individual manufacturers.

The choice of circuit depends on many factors, including the dimmer model, connection method - separate or with switches, the number of dimmers or lighting devices.

You should also take into account a very important point: different devices are used for incandescent lamps, LED lamps and strips, and low-voltage halogen light sources.

Testing a remote control dimmer connected to an LED strip. LED strips are successfully used to illuminate suspended two- and three-tier plasterboard structures

The most basic dimmer connection diagram can easily be confused with the switch installation diagram, since it actually repeats it one to one.

Wiring is usually done with a two- or three-wire wire, depending on the grounding system. In new houses, it is recommended to use a wire with three cores - VVGng with a cross section of 1.5 mm².

But often a chandelier has many arms, and the dimmer is used to control a group of separately located lamps.

In this case, it is advisable to install two devices instead of one, so that the lighting level of two separate groups can be controlled.

The fundamental difference is in the number of load wires. One common phase is supplied to the regulator, and at the output there are two phase wires directed to different groups of lamps. Accordingly, zero is also divided by two

How does the connection occur if, instead of setting up control for conventional or energy-saving lamps, it is necessary to set up control for LEDs?

Both wires from the converter are pulled to the dimmer, connected according to the diagram to the required connectors, and from the output terminals they are supplied to one lighting device or several lamps connected in parallel

One or more pass-through switches are often used in conjunction with a dimmer - the electrical network with such a kit becomes more advanced in terms of ease of use.

The location of the switch is determined in different ways: it can be between the panel and the dimmer or between the dimmer and the lamp.

The circuitry of pass-through devices differs from a standard device, and this must be taken into account when connecting. The main attention is paid to connecting the phase conductors in both devices

Finally, let’s look at the order of arrangement of wires and terminals for a standard dimmer connection - after all, it is this that is the most popular in everyday life.

The simplest diagram that can serve as a standard for connecting a standard regulator. The phase conductor is supplied to the input, and from the output, the adjacent terminal, goes to the lamp

The listed examples are only a small part of all possible schemes for installing the device. To make an error-free connection, you must use the manufacturer's instructions as your main guide.

To purchase a new dimmer, first find out what type of lamps it will serve. Then, based on the allocated budget, they buy either an inexpensive Chinese model or a design from a trusted manufacturer - Makel, Schneider, Legrand.

If you need to install a new, just purchased device, perform the same actions as when installing a switch:

• change the wiring or make sure the old cables are suitable;
• if there is no separate circuit breaker in the electrical panel, install it;
• prepare the installation site;
• perform the installation.

But more often it is necessary to make a replacement, that is, dismantle the switch body and install a dimmer in its place. Let's consider this option.

Any manipulations with electrical devices in the apartment must begin with a forced power outage at the switchboard, which is located either on the common area or inside the apartment, in the corridor (hallway).

This is required by safety standards and ensures that all connected devices and cables are kept in good condition. But the main goal is to protect your own health.

For additional insurance, you should always have either a tester or an indicator screwdriver on hand to determine the voltage.

The rapid pace of technology development allows us to fill our homes with cutting-edge electrical appliances. One of them is a dimmer or dimmer. The name “dimmer” comes from the English word “to dim” - to become dim, to darken. Simply put, with this device you can adjust the brightness of the lamp. And power consumption will decrease proportionally. You can connect a dimmer in any home. Want to know how to install a dimmer?

Purpose of the dimmer

A dimmer is a miniature device that is installed instead of a standard mechanical switch, and which allows you to smoothly adjust the brightness of the lighting. To adjust the brightness of light bulbs, rheostats were previously used, the power of which was not less than the load power.

The remaining power was not saved when the brightness was reduced, but was uselessly dissipated in the form of heat on the rheostat. Therefore, there was simply no saving. And such devices were not used everywhere in residential buildings, but only where they were really needed - for example, to regulate brightness in a theater. This was the case before the advent of semiconductor devices - the symmetrical thyristor and dinistor. And the first mechanical dimmer was invented in the eighties in the USA.

All modern dimmers are designed to turn on/off a lighting device, as well as adjust the light intensity. In other words, a dimmer is a regular switch with useful functions. By adjusting the brightness, more economical energy consumption is possible, which is only consumed in large quantities when necessary. Reduction in energy costs reaches approximately 60%!

Also, when using dimmers, the useful life of the lamps increases, since this indicator depends on the voltage supplied to the lamp. The main reason for lamp burnout is the rapid switching on of lamps - a sharp jump from 0 to 220V, but the current in the network with a dimmer increases smoothly.

The design of the device has built-in protection against short circuits, overloads and overheating, which is capable of opening the power circuit and blocking the current in the load when an excess load is connected or a short circuit occurs. At the same time, the light controller remains absolutely operational: you only need to eliminate the reasons for the protection being triggered - and the lighting system will start working again.

Many dimmer models support many other options. A useful innovation is the ability to regulate the lighting before the lights are turned on. To do this, you must first set the dimmer knob to the desired position, and then press it. The use of dimmers allows you to automatically turn off the lighting using a timer, simulate the “presence effect” (turning on, changing the brightness and turning off according to the program), smoothly turn off the lights, remotely control the lighting, and connect to a common “smart home” network.

Types of dimmers

Depending on the control method, there are the following types of dimmers: mechanical, the operating principle of which is based on the use of a traditional potentiometer; electronic, controlled by a touch ring; remote, which can be controlled using a remote control.

Device power

Dimmers vary depending on which lamps they will be used with. Taking into account the power and type of lighting source, the following light controllers are distinguished:

1. For halogen light bulbs and incandescent lamps, which are designed for a voltage level of 220 V.
2. The filament of the lighting fixture will heat up and shine weaker or brighter, depending on the voltage that is applied to it through the dimmer.
3. For low-voltage halogen lamps that are powered via transformers. If the light bulbs are designed for 12-24V voltage, a transformer is required that converts the output voltage of the dimmer to a value that is within these limits. A special, adjustable transformer is required, which guarantees “soft” switching. A small current is supplied to the lamp, which effectively heats the light bulb filament, but overloads do not occur.
4. For LEDs and fluorescent light bulbs. To operate dimmers with fluorescent lamps, an electronic choke in the luminaire is required. Through electronic ballasts, voltage (0-10 V) is transmitted to the lamp from the device and regulates the discharge intensity, that is, the light intensity, from its control output.

When purchasing a dimmer, you should know what kind of bulbs you will be using. To choose the right dimmer, you need to calculate the total load that it can withstand. The number 300 W on the device means that you can change the brightness of a 5-arm chandelier with bulbs that have a power of 60 W. However, always buy powerful dimmers with a power reserve!

Modular dimmers

Modular dimmers are very similar in appearance to automatic type switches and require electrical installation in a distribution panel on a DIN rail. They can be used with incandescent light bulbs and halogen lamps with step-down transformers. Such devices are needed primarily to control lighting in the corridor and staircases. Such dimmers are controlled by conventional single-key switches or a separate button.

Built-in dimmers

Such dimmers are designed for installation in a mounting box, like sockets and switches. Such dimmers are usually used with incandescent lamps, halogen lamps with a step-down transformer, and halogen lamps with an electronic transformer. Such dimmers should be controlled using a button that is placed in a box on top of the installed device.

Monoblock dimmers

A monoblock dimmer is usually made in the form of a single block for installation in a mounting box, like an ordinary switch. To install a dimmer of this type, an installation socket for a mounting box of 26 millimeters is required, depending on the model. Such devices are very convenient to use in thin partitions, where the thickness of the walls or other reasons does not allow installing a standard switch.

In turn, monoblock dimmers differ in the design of the control part:

1. Rotary-push dimmers are activated when a key is pressed, and the adjustment process occurs by rotating it.
2. Rotary dimmers allow all control to be performed solely by rotating the handle. The disadvantage of this solution is that the light value cannot be stored in memory for starting; the start is always carried out with minimum brightness.
3. Key lighting controls are almost indistinguishable in appearance from conventional switches. When pressed, it will turn on/off, and if you hold the key for more than 3 seconds, the light brightness will be directly adjusted.
4. Touch dimmers are a more advanced type of device. All control is carried out without moving parts and is therefore more reliable. Such models are controlled by touching the touch panel.

Requirements for installing a dimmer

Before installing a dimmer, there are a few key points you need to pay attention to. If you plan to load your dimmers with energy-saving or fluorescent light bulbs, you risk incurring extra costs because such lighting sources are not dimmable. Even if it seems at the initial stage that the tandem “energy-saving lamp - dimmer” is working, the life of the lamp will actually be reduced to 100 - 150 hours. And the dimmer itself, due to constant overloads, will not “live” for long.

All lighting controls require a minimum load. As a rule, this figure is 40 W. When the load decreases, which is caused by various factors, for example, one light bulb burns out, the contact deteriorates, the load flickers with an approximate frequency of 50 Hz, and sometimes there is a hum of the same frequency. With more significant drops in load, the device’s protection system will work, or the device will fail.

Dimmers react very critically to ambient temperature. When the temperature increases above plus 25 degrees, it is recommended to pay close attention to the temperature regime of the regulator, since an overheated device will easily fail if the protection fails. Never exceed the maximum load of a particular appliance. The problem of insufficient power can be solved by adding power amplifiers that allow switching devices up to 1.8 kW.

Dimmers must be used with exactly the type of load for which they are designed. Remember that less versatile devices in terms of load will work more reliably. Another important point is the prohibition of simultaneous connection of capacitive and inductive loads, this can cause failure of the device.

Dimmer connection diagrams

The design of a rotary dimmer is very simple, but may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. The main difference is the quality of the assembly itself and components. The principle of operation of the dimmer is as follows: in order for the light bulb to light up, current must pass through the triac. A dimmer, like an ordinary switch, must be connected to the open circuit of the load power supply that is supplied to the lamps.

There are the following connection diagrams for dimmers:

1. Regulation from one place. A similar circuit is considered typical for connecting a light controller. With such a scheme, it is best to install a touch or push dimmer. Since the rotary dimmer will be inconvenient to turn on.
2. Regulation from two places. This connection diagram is prescribed for the bedroom. It is customary to install one device at the entrance, and the second one near the bed. This will make it convenient to go into the bedroom, turn on the light, and dim the brightness when watching TV.
3. Regulation from one place, and the control process from two. This circuit is the most optimal when connecting a dimmer. It can be used in any situation. At the entrance to the bedroom, a switch is installed, and a regulator is installed near the bed, as well as for lighting the two-level ceiling.
4. Regulation from one place, and control procedure from three. A similar dimmer connection diagram is suitable when you need to turn lighting on and off in several places. For example, in the case of long corridors and stairs. In addition to the dimmer, you also need two pass-through switches.

Installing a dimmer

In terms of its installation dimensions and mounting, the dimmer is similar to an ordinary switch. As a result, the installation process is carried out in the same way as a switch. The procedure for connecting a dimmer is no different from the procedure when using a regular keyboard player. The only additional condition stated by the manufacturer is that the terminals are connected to the phase and load.

To replace a switch with a dimmer, you will need the following materials and tools: pliers, a knife, a screwdriver, an indicator screwdriver, insulating tape and the dimmer itself, which needs to be installed. First, start by dismantling the old switch. Turn off the electricity and check that there is no voltage.

All work must be carried out in compliance with safety precautions! Touching metal parts and exposed cables that are live is dangerous to human life. To gain access to the fastening elements that hold the switch in the wall, and the fastening elements that secure the electrical wires, it is necessary to remove the parts of the device (decorative panel, key) covering the fastening elements.

Taking into account the design features of each switch, unscrew the screws, press out or pick out the corresponding clamps. Having gained access to the switch terminals, you need to use a phase indicator to check that there is no voltage on them, as well as on the wire connected to it. Disconnect the cable from the terminals while loosening the screws. Remove the switch from the wall, making sure that the insulation of the wires is not damaged.

Then evaluate by visual inspection the condition and type of insulation and conductive core of the wire. If there are torn or broken bare parts of the wire, restore their length by stripping the insulation to an amount sufficient to connect to the terminals. Using pliers, you need to shape the ends of the cable into a shape that is considered most convenient for connecting to the dimmer. If there are areas with damaged insulation, they should be insulated with insulating tape.

After this, install the dimmer. To do this, remove the protective and decorative elements from the dimmer to provide access to the fasteners. Connect the prepared wires to the terminals of the device and check the strength of the connection by pulling the cable slightly from the terminal. The length of the bare part of the cable that protrudes beyond the terminal should not be more than 2-3 millimeters. If this requirement is not met, cut part of the exposed area to a suitable length or insulate the excess exposed area with electrical tape.

Avoiding damage to the insulation, carefully insert the dimmer into the place of the dismantled switch with the connected wires. Press the housing of the dimmer against the wall and tighten the screws of the spacer blades that secure the dimmer. Assemble the device by installing the protective and decorative elements that were removed before installation into place.

Just remember that, unlike an ordinary switch, which works regardless of the connection order, the incoming and outgoing wires must be correctly connected to the dimmer. The terminal of the device marked with the letter L is intended for the supply wire. Of course, many dimmers can work when connected like a simple switch, but despite this, they must be connected correctly.

Apply voltage by turning on the circuit breaker in the electrical panel or by replacing the unscrewed fuses. Turn on the mounted dimmer and set the desired light level. If switches have not yet been installed in the apartment, you should find out how to connect a dimmer in this situation. After all, you need to take some preliminary steps.

Start by preparing the location for installing the dimmer. Determine the height that is convenient for you at which you will install the device. Make a mark on the wall. Drill it using a hammer drill and a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 68 millimeters. Insert the installation box into the resulting hole and secure it. Punch a groove from the junction box to the installation area and lay the wire in it. Next, you need to proceed according to the scheme already described above.

If the wire connection and installation of the dimmer are correct, the device will allow you to smoothly regulate the lighting in the room, depending on the time of day and mood. Just remember to pay attention to its power when choosing a dimmer, having first calculated the total power of the lighting fixtures.

A dimmer is an electronic mechanism that acts as an electrical power regulator. A few years ago, the only device that could change the brightness of light was a rheostat. Its use did not make it possible to save energy consumption, since the power of the rheostats was the same as the load. With the advent and installation of a dimmer, it became possible to adjust the brightness of the light by reducing the power of the network.

Device and types

Dimmer designs are based on different element bases. They all have their advantages and disadvantages. The following types are distinguished:

When choosing any type of structure, you should take into account the parameters of the load to which it will be connected.

Design features

Dimmers are distinguished by installation method, dividing them into groups: modular, on a cord, monoblock, for installation in an installation box. Modular devices are installed in an electrical panel on a DIN rail.

To control they have a remote button or key switch. Typically, a dimmer is connected to a circuit with incandescent lamps or halogen lamps through a step-down transformer.

Wired regulators are installed to control the power of table lamps, sconces, floor lamps, etc. The only condition is that the lamps must have incandescent lamps.

The most popular are monoblock designs, which look like regular switches and are installed in the same mounting boxes. Specialists connect the device to a phase wire break. According to the method of their management, there are the following varieties:

Recently, monoblock types of regulators have been mainly used, but modular designs are well suited for controlling light in an apartment or private house.

Popular models

Currently, many models of dimmers are produced. Their production is established by both Russian and foreign manufacturers. The following devices are worth noting:

It is worth noting the following brands of devices: TDM SQ 1805−0009, Lezard 702−0303−115, VIKO KARMEN 562020, etc.

Installation and connection of the dimmer

Using a monoblock device as an example, it is worth considering how to install and correctly connect a dimmer. The fact is that this type of device is most often used, and it is easy to connect it yourself. The only important point is correct identification of phase and neutral wires.

Otherwise, the electronic circuit of the device will fail. Otherwise, it is installed in the same way as a standard switch. First, turn off the power that is supplied to the room or the entire apartment. Then carefully remove the old switch and disconnect the wires from it.

Turn on the machine and use an electrical indicator to determine where the phase wire is located. The machine is turned off again, and if the wires are the same color, then the phase wire is marked with a small piece of insulating tape.

On the back of the dimmer housing there are two terminals marked: in, out. The first means entry, and the second means exit. The phase wire is connected to the first terminal, and the neutral wire to the second. It is necessary to immediately carefully check the functionality of the device.

Apply power by turning on the machine and turn the dial clockwise until the lamps operate at full power. Next, the device is installed in the mounting box and firmly fixed.

In the bedroom, the dimmer can be installed near the bed, and at the entrance - a standard switch. In such a scheme, the device will play the role of a pass-through light controller. This method is very convenient for large areas of premises.